JMZNeal
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Posts posted by JMZNeal
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I want to know if they're worth the money, and how much power can they really take........
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It was for hot climates. Prob not high humidity though. I think my problem could have been the humidity that night and next day. Or cure time before I wet sanded. It was about 72hours but humid the entire time. I was just wondering if time could fix it then i wet sand it again and hope all the clear has cured out underneath.
And I allowed lots of flash time. It was super hot that day so I went inside between. lol
The clear is an off brand but was fine before I wet sanded it.
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So the fender, door, and bed side are matte after wet sanding and repeatedly buffing and polishing. It looks really good, as in no scratches or swirls it's just matte or semi-gloss.
Before it was scratched and I did some minor body work and blended in some color. When I sprayed the clear it was hot and dry, but the gun was shitty and there wasn't enough reserve in the air tank and it would run out between coats and get really rough. So I wet sanded and buffed it. I know I'm not into the color yet but it kinda sucks cuz it could have been the humidity that night and last few days since I sprayed it, or it wasn't cured yet and I wet sanded it to quick. On the other side I did a scuff and it cam out fine. It's just on the new clear.
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That is crazy how so little can do so much. LOL. Your car looks sick. Love it.
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You will blow a single L7 off almost 2k watts that T1500 will put out at charging levels. My rule of thumb with Kicker is RMS capability minus 10%
I like that thought.
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It all depends on clipping. If you like to just hammer your shit, I'd say a T1500 would be more than okay bc your going to kill your sub at less than rms. but if you never clip i'd be okay with a T2500 per sub, but that's really hard to do w/o proper equipment and wiring, which is more important than the amp some times.
edit: 1000w RMS.... i wouldn't go more than a T1500 per sub at 2ohm. you might kill it with that. I though L7's were 1.5k or 2k rms my bad
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I just put two old T1's on a T1500bdCP that's birth sheet reads 1880@1ohm, the CP's are really fucking stout.
IDK about a single L7 to full but hella close.
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So... Just because I'm bout to re wire some stuff... You only have POS's from alt and front batt, then 3 chassis grounds at the back right?
I'm assuming you have the alt grounded to chassis upfront right?
New (+) 1/0 from alt to main battery. 2 (+) 1/0 from front to rear buss bars. 2 New 1/0 Engine grounds, 4 Frame grounds up front, 4 in back. Only 3 shown so far, i have one more i am going to do when i install the amps. I decided against running dedicated ground wires since this car has a very beefy structure to it and some NICE grounding points. I will see how it acts but i think it will be ok.
also someone asked about an alternator upgrade. Right now, the stock alt is 180a. I had 2 T4000.1bd on my honda 200a alternator so i am pretty sure the stock 180 should be able to handle what i have. It won't be IDEAL....but, it should be OK. This isn't going an SPL vehicle.
Cool, That's what I assumed looking at the pics. I've always wondered how much the alt to back bank ground actually helped if your big 3 was like yours and hella good. Thanks Steve.
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So... Just because I'm bout to re wire some stuff... You only have POS's from alt and front batt, then 3 chassis grounds at the back right?
I'm assuming you have the alt grounded to chassis upfront right?
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I did the same exact thing... It took 3 days to get hard but i still used them lol.
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I think it's kick ass. I believe another pro is that it will play flatter across a wide hz band due to the two tuning hz. But cancellation could be a hinderance.
I was under the impression that the subs weren't mounted into each other but beside each other though. but maybe that would be a regular 6th order.
I hope you stick with this plan though because i think it's really kick ass. I'd like to see it on a meter on sweeps to see it's bandwidth.
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I watched it earlier b/f I got on SMD. He used a solvent to melt them together. over 11,000 bricks. One 15 and one Passive Radiator. Fuckin sweet. I think it's epic.
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Yes you will notice a big difference. bigger is better unless you want a tight sporty ride that kills you on bumps in the road.
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I 'm i Johnson City bout 2.5hrs away? If you drive I will Pound!
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2 xl 12
5.0k
3.5k
2.0k
175.4
37601
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I dug around until i found something that answered my question.......
Using two amplifiers and two sets of speaker cables to drive the existing passive crossover is something I call "passive biamping" or "active biwiring". Various websites may claim that it's true biamping, but it's not, never was and never will be.
In some cases users may hear an improvement, but make sure that it really is an improvement and not just a difference. Because you have separate amps driving the two sections of the crossover, you can easily have a level mismatch that leads you to think that the sound is "better". The gains of the two amps used must be identical, or the original balance between mid and high will be changed. Naturally the specific frequency depends on where the passive crossover splits the signal. Apart from (usually) a slightly easier load on the amps, both amplifiers still reproduce the full audio bandwidth, so there is no effective power gain.
In general, it is likely that the improvement - assuming there is an actual improvement of course - will be small. It will commonly be so small that the additional cost cannot be justified, but this is cold comfort if you've already bought the amplifiers and speaker cables. Speaking of which, make sure that you read the articles on this site about "high end" (rip-off IMO) speaker cables before parting with large sums of money.
..........i took from this that both channels still put out full range and the cross over eats what isn't allowed through. From what i gather 100watts into a crossover comes out 100watts per driver minus the power lost in the inefficiency of the crossover. So running bi amped on the crossover isn't as efficient as it sounds because lots of power is lost filtering lows from highs and visa versa. Loving my 360.2 more and more every day...
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IDK. if i do a 4ch amp then it would still be stereo either way i did it. I was just wanting to know about the power handling of the x-over and driver. and if bi-amping would be any better than running them straight out like intended.
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Thank you. But can you put too much power in the x-over. If i'm pushing 125 into each driver bi-amped can the x-over handle the extra power. I know they have power limits. or would i be better off just bridging the amp to 2ohm and not worry about bi-amping?
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So i've got a question about bi-amping a set of comp speakers.
For instance if you had a 125watt rms set of 2 way comps and bi-amped them obviously your still running each driver at 4ohm. but what happens to the power handling. Do you still put 125 per driver? wouldn't that be twice what the x-over could handle?
I had a guy tell me that each driver is still getting the full power from the channel your x-over is on just the HZ is split and separated so there's no point in bi-amping. I understand the efficiency of using an active x-over with bandpass before the amp like how my 360.2 works for my horns and mids and all that but i don't understand passive x-overs i don't guess because your still at 4ohm with or with out the other driver.
Also what if i paralleled a set down to 2ohm. would that change anything on the x-over? What if I did both? Bi-amped a set at 2ohms
I've got a plan for 2 set's of comps in doors and a 4channel amp but I want the most power out of it i can get.
Can anyone tell me the best approach to that?
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You still got the 400.4? if so what does the birth sheet rate say it will do? i may be interested.
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So I was browsing the SMD product links and Parts Express is selling this product that hooks to your pc/laptop and was wondering if it would be worth investing in just for eq tuning and clipping purposes not real SPL metering or anything. I know Meade has his new distortion detector out but this also claims to be an RTA and time delay and all that. Let me know what you think or know from first hand experience. I'll post anything else I find too.
Dayton Audio OmniMic: $298
Dayton Audio OmniMic Precision Measurement System
Brand: Dayton Audio | Model: OmniMic
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Overview
Dayton Audio's OmniMic is a must-have omnidirectional acoustic measurement system for audio system integrators, acoustic engineers, and residential A/V installers. The OmniMic provides quick and accurate audio measurements, reducing installation time and saving you money.
Highlights
Extremely quick and easy to use with intuitive software—open the box, start testing in minutes
High quality calibrated USB microphone for accurate measurements
Developed in collaboration with Liberty Instruments, inventors of the Praxis Measurement System
Perfect for calibrating home theater systems and measuring room acoustics
Optimized for use with Netbooks and Laptop computers to enhance portability
Compact, portable, accurate, affordable
Part #: 390-790 Weight: 1.45 lbs.
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Dayton Audio OmniMic Precision Measurement System
Dayton Audio's OmniMic is the perfect acoustic measurement system for commercial system integrators, acoustic engineers, and home theater installers. It was developed in collaboration with Liberty Instruments, inventors of the Praxis audio analysis tool. The OmniMic provides quick and accurate audio measurements at a price well below the competition. Audio test signals may be generated using a portable host computer, or from any audio CD player. System includes individually calibrated USB powered omnidirectional microphone, microphone clip, OmniMic operating software and test signal discs, 6 ft. USB cable, and padded carrying case. Dayton Audio OmniMic Measurement Software is compatible with Windows XP, Vista, and Windows 7.
edit: bout forgot this
Measurements include:
SPL meter with A, B, C, or no weighting
Spectrum analyzer, FFT, or RTA
Frequency response with phase and impulse response
Oscilloscope function to view complex waveforms
Harmonic distortion: 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th harmonics plus THD
RT60 reverberation: measures sound reflection
Bass decay function identifies room modes and helps determine proper subwoofer placement
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Bitches will eat there puppies poop until they are weened. FYI lol. I just watched it...Jack Russel/AppleHead Chihuahua mix. cute but the girls they throw can't have puppies cuz they might throw a Jack Russel dominant puppy that's to big for them to pass and it would kill the Jackahua. NE wayz....
Eating all the time is def from a nutrient deficiency or just instinct from not getting fed alot in the mill... or both.. and/or worms.. all of which are possible. I'd try a puppy food that is also high in fiber to keep him from overeating as much. Just slowly introduce and switch it out so the little shit factory don't get the runs from the sudden change. Then he'd have to lap it up like a spilt milkshake.
Def take it to the vet if not already to check for worms.. and like everyone else is saying keep his mouth wrapped around something other than food like toys and stuff. Also it's not mean to take the bowl away after he's ate the daily recommended amount. IDK other than what's already been said.
I bet he is cute though... why no pics of it?
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i know this isn't the exact explanation you wanted but it will help
He makes a base mold of the panel first so it can be removed and trimmed up.
then the driver can be positioned and you can wrap the entire thing at once and bolt it in place.
My recomendation is to cut a little hole in the panel first for the driver to sit in so it doesn't stick up as much. and make the base mold go in the hole enough to keep it all sealed or cut the hole back out and leave it open if your sound dampening the door. Tape the panel off first though so it won't stick to it. and wear gloves
Use a stretchy cloth for the wrap. and chop strand mat for the layup... do it at least 3 good layers thick if not more and be careful about sanding the edges to thin.
You can also youtube it and watch vids to see the process also. Hope this helps... i've done a little bit of glassing but i'm no pro by any means but once you get into it it's not hard just takes patience. Practice making something first so you don't get discouraged if you mess up the pod the first time.
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This is my buddy Travis's first video. He's awesome on the mic and real good in the lab making beats. He has really put a lot of time into his music like we do our rides...
check out some of his other stuff.. tell me if you like it in your systems..
AD-1 Amplifier Dyno answers question "do caps work"
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
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That is extremely interesting to see. And it would be awesome to have one of those at your disposal, and from what I've read, shops should have one to show customer's the differences they make when doing electrical upgrades, amp upgrades, ect... Bet it's expensive too. But I want one just the same.
Some one should rent one out for so much a week and ship it around like the roaming gnome and get vids, pics and tons of scientific results...