JMZNeal

That is extremely interesting to see. And it would be awesome to have one of those at your disposal, and from what I've read, shops should have one to show customer's the differences they make when doing electrical upgrades, amp upgrades, ect... Bet it's expensive too. But I want one just the same. Some one should rent one out for so much a week and ship it around like the roaming gnome and get vids, pics and tons of scientific results...

I want to know if they're worth the money, and how much power can they really take........

It was for hot climates. Prob not high humidity though. I think my problem could have been the humidity that night and next day. Or cure time before I wet sanded. It was about 72hours but humid the entire time. I was just wondering if time could fix it then i wet sand it again and hope all the clear has cured out underneath. And I allowed lots of flash time. It was super hot that day so I went inside between. lol The clear is an off brand but was fine before I wet sanded it.

So the fender, door, and bed side are matte after wet sanding and repeatedly buffing and polishing. It looks really good, as in no scratches or swirls it's just matte or semi-gloss. Before it was scratched and I did some minor body work and blended in some color. When I sprayed the clear it was hot and dry, but the gun was shitty and there wasn't enough reserve in the air tank and it would run out between coats and get really rough. So I wet sanded and buffed it. I know I'm not into the color yet but it kinda sucks cuz it could have been the humidity that night and last few days since I sprayed it, or it wasn't cured yet and I wet sanded it to quick. On the other side I did a scuff and it cam out fine. It's just on the new clear.

That is crazy how so little can do so much. LOL. Your car looks sick. Love it.

I like that thought.

It all depends on clipping. If you like to just hammer your shit, I'd say a T1500 would be more than okay bc your going to kill your sub at less than rms. but if you never clip i'd be okay with a T2500 per sub, but that's really hard to do w/o proper equipment and wiring, which is more important than the amp some times. edit: 1000w RMS.... i wouldn't go more than a T1500 per sub at 2ohm. you might kill it with that. I though L7's were 1.5k or 2k rms my bad

I just put two old T1's on a T1500bdCP that's birth sheet reads 1880@1ohm, the CP's are really fucking stout. IDK about a single L7 to full but hella close.

New (+) 1/0 from alt to main battery. 2 (+) 1/0 from front to rear buss bars. 2 New 1/0 Engine grounds, 4 Frame grounds up front, 4 in back. Only 3 shown so far, i have one more i am going to do when i install the amps. I decided against running dedicated ground wires since this car has a very beefy structure to it and some NICE grounding points. I will see how it acts but i think it will be ok. also someone asked about an alternator upgrade. Right now, the stock alt is 180a. I had 2 T4000.1bd on my honda 200a alternator so i am pretty sure the stock 180 should be able to handle what i have. It won't be IDEAL....but, it should be OK. This isn't going an SPL vehicle. Cool, That's what I assumed looking at the pics. I've always wondered how much the alt to back bank ground actually helped if your big 3 was like yours and hella good. Thanks Steve.

So... Just because I'm bout to re wire some stuff... You only have POS's from alt and front batt, then 3 chassis grounds at the back right? I'm assuming you have the alt grounded to chassis upfront right?

I did the same exact thing... It took 3 days to get hard but i still used them lol.

I think it's kick ass. I believe another pro is that it will play flatter across a wide hz band due to the two tuning hz. But cancellation could be a hinderance. I was under the impression that the subs weren't mounted into each other but beside each other though. but maybe that would be a regular 6th order. I hope you stick with this plan though because i think it's really kick ass. I'd like to see it on a meter on sweeps to see it's bandwidth.

I watched it earlier b/f I got on SMD. He used a solvent to melt them together. over 11,000 bricks. One 15 and one Passive Radiator. Fuckin sweet. I think it's epic.

Yes you will notice a big difference. bigger is better unless you want a tight sporty ride that kills you on bumps in the road.

I 'm i Johnson City bout 2.5hrs away? If you drive I will Pound!

2 xl 12 5.0k 3.5k 2.0k 175.4 37601

CLICKY I dug around until i found something that answered my question....... Using two amplifiers and two sets of speaker cables to drive the existing passive crossover is something I call "passive biamping" or "active biwiring". Various websites may claim that it's true biamping, but it's not, never was and never will be. In some cases users may hear an improvement, but make sure that it really is an improvement and not just a difference. Because you have separate amps driving the two sections of the crossover, you can easily have a level mismatch that leads you to think that the sound is "better". The gains of the two amps used must be identical, or the original balance between mid and high will be changed. Naturally the specific frequency depends on where the passive crossover splits the signal. Apart from (usually) a slightly easier load on the amps, both amplifiers still reproduce the full audio bandwidth, so there is no effective power gain. In general, it is likely that the improvement - assuming there is an actual improvement of course - will be small. It will commonly be so small that the additional cost cannot be justified, but this is cold comfort if you've already bought the amplifiers and speaker cables. Speaking of which, make sure that you read the articles on this site about "high end" (rip-off IMO) speaker cables before parting with large sums of money. ..........i took from this that both channels still put out full range and the cross over eats what isn't allowed through. From what i gather 100watts into a crossover comes out 100watts per driver minus the power lost in the inefficiency of the crossover. So running bi amped on the crossover isn't as efficient as it sounds because lots of power is lost filtering lows from highs and visa versa. Loving my 360.2 more and more every day...

IDK. if i do a 4ch amp then it would still be stereo either way i did it. I was just wanting to know about the power handling of the x-over and driver. and if bi-amping would be any better than running them straight out like intended.

Thank you. But can you put too much power in the x-over. If i'm pushing 125 into each driver bi-amped can the x-over handle the extra power. I know they have power limits. or would i be better off just bridging the amp to 2ohm and not worry about bi-amping?

So i've got a question about bi-amping a set of comp speakers. For instance if you had a 125watt rms set of 2 way comps and bi-amped them obviously your still running each driver at 4ohm. but what happens to the power handling. Do you still put 125 per driver? wouldn't that be twice what the x-over could handle? I had a guy tell me that each driver is still getting the full power from the channel your x-over is on just the HZ is split and separated so there's no point in bi-amping. I understand the efficiency of using an active x-over with bandpass before the amp like how my 360.2 works for my horns and mids and all that but i don't understand passive x-overs i don't guess because your still at 4ohm with or with out the other driver. Also what if i paralleled a set down to 2ohm. would that change anything on the x-over? What if I did both? Bi-amped a set at 2ohms I've got a plan for 2 set's of comps in doors and a 4channel amp but I want the most power out of it i can get. Can anyone tell me the best approach to that?

You still got the 400.4? if so what does the birth sheet rate say it will do? i may be interested.