yungmulah08

yeah man no problem, i just know how tough it was for me spending days on the computer researching everything i could find, trying to understand all of this on my own, so im glad i could help. most of these guys really know what there talkin about, so if you got the money now, you might want to look into that dc sub and sundown amp he has for sell, even though it contradicts my opinion on buying electronic upgrades b4 you subs/amp, you just cant pass up a good deal. check out some youtube vids on dc's. youll be impressed.

thanks, i did not know that. ill def be investing in another amp for my setup then.

im the same as you, about to graduate hs and gettin my setup finally almost done, but ive done alotta research. that sub would be great to start out with. i mean dont expect any crazy flexing or anything like that, but you will deff get some good beat out of it. they are kinda expensive tho, so if you are on a budget, you may want to go with 2-3 cheaper 12's. you may also want to check ur local car audio shop and look for something already in a box. it helps alot, as tuning/porting and building your own box can become difficult. or atleast it was for me, but then again my box is a very awkward shape. as for a good cheap amp, id go with audiopipe. i have a 3000d on my solo x and i havnt had any problems out of it. you really cant get a better deal for 350 bucks. but for you, you wouldnt need near that power, so just look for an audiopipe 1500 class d mono amplifier or a little less. as far as wire goes, if you can afford it, grab some good knu 0g wire. you can get it online here: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=Power%20Wire using 0g now will make the biggest difference. dont get the cheap walmart crap. i learned my lesson the hard way. its just a waste of money. i would also look into doing the big 3 upgrade. search these forums for some more info. its basically just running 0g wire from ur alt to ur batt and and a 0g battery neg to a GOOD ground and 0 g to the amp. also, grounding. grounding is very important. when running a ground from your amp, try to make it as short as possible, but to a good solid "shiny" metal surface. to the frame or shocks if possible. and also a battery. if you can afford it grab an optima yellowtop under the hood, and if you can afford a second batt, use xs power or kenetic. one yellowtop under the hood or one kenetic or xs power under the hood should be fine tho. dont do like me and get your speakers first, and then try and upgrade you electrical to meet the speakers needs. its completly drove me crazy. i just hate having to wait till the next check to get the nxt thing i need to get my system finally going. it sucks just having a super nice system in the trunk and you cant run it properly untill you get the wire or batt or whatever. if i were you i would get wire first, then your battery and then save up and grab ur amp and sub at the same time. when buying car audio, remember to always look at the rms watts. the max watts is just what it can handle for a split second, a "burp". you dont want to get subs that are 1000 watts max and an amp thats 1000 watts rms. i always get an amp thats not powerful enough to blow my subs. like for my set up, my sub can handle 5000 watts rms and 10000 watts max, but my amp only puts out 3000 watts rms, so i highly doubt ill ever blow my sub. unless i just completely screw everyhting up. i hope ive provided some help. if theres anything i forgot to cover, ppl feel free to add on. or if im wrong, correct me. oh, and check out youtube. i always like to look at others systems, and then see whats in my budget and get it. search around for some vids of that 15'' l7, so you know what to expect. and dont forget to check out steves system =]

thanks. the kicker is 10000 watt max 5000 watt rms. 18'' it IS possible to run 2 amps to 1 sub correct? as long as their identical right? and thanks man yea, ill check around here for the wire. and im pretty sure its okay to have a diff starting battery than the batt in the back. if not some1 correct me

and im also thinking of grabbin another audiopipe 3000. would a 200 amp irragi and 2 batts (1 up front (optima) and an xs power in the back) be okay for this, or would i need more batts? and how do i go about connecting 2 amps to 1 bass nob?

im not the best, but im decent. ill see wht i can do. im not sure how one would go about dropping it a couple inches tho. im sure some can. but i dont have a clue. lol gimmme a few hrs and ill post the pics if they turn out alright.

thank man this sounds great. the bluetop i got upfront is a d34, new, i just got it last week. but ill grab another batt as soon as i can afford it. first ill be doing the big 3 with this next paycheck, then probably save for a batt and save for a alt. im juss 17 so i dont have bookoo money or nothing, and my job is juss 7.25 an hr, so its gonna take some time, but ill get there.

thanks, do you have any suggestions for the cheapest yet still good ho alt? where to go? and how hard are these things to install?

thanks man for the help. yeah, so should i shoot for 2 batteries if i can afford it? and whats the shock tower? and i have a nissan 240 sx, hatch, right where my amp is i can run a ground to my rear shocks, think that would be str8? and the 5 g wire, walmart, their little amp kit thing, i was using it on my old system (only 500 watts) it might be 4g or 6, im not sure lol.

Okay, so i finally got my new set up, and everything hooked up. I have a Kicker Solo X 18'' sub, running at 2 ohms connected to an AudioPipe 3000. Im using the stock alternator, (about 100 amp) and an optima bluetop. I got the Bluetop bc the store didnt have the yellowtop in stock, and the bluetop is exactly the same as a yellowtop except with the extra terminals. (i think?) Right now i just have the one battery, but i think im going to get another and throw it in the trunk. (should i?) Im also using 5g wire, for now. Big 3 upgrade soon with 0 g. Im quite positive everything is ran correctly, and grounded correctly. My rca cables and all that are fairly new, so no problems there. Now, for the problem. =[ Everyhting runs fine, and i can crank the volume up to a decent level, but NOWHERE near maximum. Once i turn it up, and slowly turn up the bass nob, at about 1/3 of the way (on the bass nob) and 2/3 of the way (on the head unit) everything shuts off. (headunit turns off and amp enters protect mode then after a few seconds everything starts back up) Im wondering if when my amp goes into protect, its causing the head unit to shut off, or if its vice-versa, and my head unit is shutting off and causing my amp to go into protect. Ive checked my voltage, and its the same directly at the battery/terminals and directly at the amp. So no problems in them wires. When turned down i have a fairly constant 15.5 volts. (on the regular 12 volt optima bluetop?) when i turn it up to a decent, yet still low level i get drops down to anywhere between 13-15. right before everything shuts off (volumes turned up more at 1/3 bass nob and 2/3 headunit) i get a drop to about 11, and then "kahphutt" everything turns off and restarts. What in the world is my problem? More information: My gains on the amp are set at about half, and the bass boost is set at half. My box is 6.6 cubic ft, tuned to 36 hz. (i used every bit of space in my trunk, custom fit box) My head unit is one of them slightly generic ones with the 7 inch fold out , non-touchscreen screen) Also, my amp is screwed into the back of my seat, which is carpeted, but has metal under the carpet. I heard that you shouldnt mount the amp on a metal surface, just recently tho, so should i mount amp to wood then wood to seat? Im not using a cap (waste right?) or should i? Any help will be greatly appreciated, if anyone can help, please please do. Ive been doing all of this on my own, with no prior knowledge of car audio, just what i can learn on the internet, and on these forums. Thanks everyone for their time, and even if u just read this and dont have any answers for me, sorry its so long.

thanks for all of the help and feed back. i appreciate it a lot. for now ill juss keep it at 2 ohms, till i get the cash to get another, then i will link them together. how do you think a stock alternator w/ a decent battery will run this? what is the bottom amount of thing i will need to run it at 2000w rms?

so could i safely run this at .5 ohms?

im kind of new to car audio, but have been doing a lot of research and reading, trying to teach myself best i can. im am about to receive a 18'' solo x, dual 1 ohm, (1&2 ohm) along with that i will receive a audio pipe 30001d amp heres info on the sub http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_18697_Kicker_SoloX_S18X1.aspx and info on the amp http://www.echo-electronics.com/audiopipe-ap30001d-p-1131.html what my question is how will i wire this for 1 ohm? how will i wire it for 2 ohms? should i wire it 1 ohm or just run it at 2? right now my electrical is stock, but i will be getting a ho alternator and optima yellow-top. i already have wires ran, and the are correct, (basic wires from battery to amp and ground and all that.) i just need help with wiring the amp to the sub.