DarkTinman

10 more legitimate posts and try it again.

Happy birthday Rusty! Hope you get "Birthday Sex, Birthday Sex" [insert Drake's Birthday Sex Song Here]

Pretty chill song. To me it doesn't scream dub step but i hear the hints of it and stuff in the song

You just opened your self up for a lot of questions lol!

Build log!

Sorry man, i thought i replied. I made a build section to show my progress. thanks bassl0va so much man, you have helped me out a lot. I will make sure i message you if a question arises

Um... I will take it! Haha. Thanks again Alex!

Also i have some more questions. Me and my engineer friend were talking about how we want to build this box. We came across some more questions that we wanted to throw at you all. All answers are GREATLY appreciated! First off, we wanted to have a Removable Front Piece, meaning, where the front of the wall/where the subs will be mounted to, if we made it a removable piece but put rubber gaskets over the sides so that it will be sealed. Now, as general as this is, my question is, will it not be able to seal properly and will i lose air/numbers because of it. The reason we want to do this is so that we can get to the subs and easily get into the box etc. What do you guys think about this? We would be screwing in/bolting the front piece. Double nuts etc. Everything would be secure. Second, mounting the subs. I have looked at builds and i understand how people do it sorta, but no one really explains what bolts they use. We were both wondering what exactly we would use. We aren't sure if wood screws would be enough. Also, i do understand how to make subwoofers flush and stuff to the box but i just don't understand what the screws need to be! Third, and lastly, I have talked to many people about the different boxes and sizes. I have learned about bottoming out and more about how much the box size matters. We (when i say we i am talking about myself and the person who is the engineer helping with the project) were assuming that we just need to build the box big and tune the port. Well with all of this new information, i don't even know anymore. So the biggest thing is, what is the minimum and (maximum?) space we can have for the box with out bottoming out or doing anything that could harm the woofers. I honestly have a lot of questions about this part and this is the most crucial part of the box! Thanks again for all of your answers, you guys really have helped me along and i look forward to more of your help!

So bottoming out is too big of a box... So how do i know how big or small to make it? I mean really we were going to make it big and just tune it with a detachable port. But now that you said that, that is pretty scary... Suggestions? If you don't mind me asking, how much did you get your alt for? Thanks for this information man! I know i don't need to upgrade right away but soon for sure. I had NO idea DC was like that. That's good to know though, honestly. Yeah i would eventually plan to drop it but i want to put bags in it. But with all of these car audio crap (stuff) i have to buy. I have no money yet haha. But thank you, i honestly will check those out man! Thank you so much! Are you being sarcastic about the alt? I don't really understand haha. Yeah man, I don't know enough, but hopefully i can get there soon. It's mostly the resources that i lack. aka money $$$

Yeah dude! I have been thinking about my suspension too! I have no idea how it's going to handle haha. Any ideas/brands of suspension i should upgrade to? I have NO idea about that kind of stuff. I'm sure i can ask around but why not start with someone who knows why i need the upgrade and knows what they are talking about haha! What kind of alt do you recommend getting for what the gist of what we are talking about for amps. I mean, I have a SE not sure if it's F class honestly. But what do you think? I thinking about my alt having to power 4 batteries in the long run. I want to use DC power but I'm not sure if you have some better ideas? Hdorre! All good man! Like i said you were totally right. I was just tired and your statement made me upset. But it's all good. I need to humble myself anyways. I honestly don't know much about it in reality. More then the average 16 year old with 2 12 inch subs but not more then you guys know. Thanks for the advice though! Really! And with what you just said, what is "bottoming out and what exactly do you mean when you said "building a correct box to compensate for more power" Like make it bigger? That raises questions that i want to know the answer to! I would be willing to look for it but I'm not sure if they have something about it... Yeah man, through DC for sure. I have a upgraded spider also. So your sub is a 4dvc? Any recommendations for amps?

Yeah i understand. Thanks man. I honestly looked around at amps and stuff but i had a pretty specific question to ask dealing with my setup. I couldn't get an answer out of any other threads. Yeah i know. I got that too. I was just pissed off that he said that, plus it was late at night. But i completely understand and he is right. If i don't know what i am doing, i shouldn't try and do more then i understand. Yeah dude, level 4 with level 5 soft parts. Which i am being told is the same thing as a level 5? With the batteries, i was planning on just getting some more 1800HC's but i honestly don't know if that will cut it or not. Seeing as i already have one HC1800. The subs i am like 99.9% positive that they are 2ohms. But yeah your right i should totally know what i ordered. But i kinda ordered them in a rush. I should have asked more questions and took down what i exactly got. Sorry man, huge mistake on my part though. I completely get that. Yeah i just want to be able to pound and not have any problems with the amp. My friend got a hellfire amp and when it got to him, everything inside was blown to crap. He bought it straight from them too. I really don't want that to happen to me

Hey man, I'm really trying to humble myself with asking such a "noobish" question. I know that people just post topics up and ask stupid questions like this. But i have looked and been looking through logs for a while now. It's just hard when I'm honestly still new at this. I know a lot of people out there (such as yourselves) are a lot more knowledgeable about all of this and i am just trying to get some help with all of it. That being said, I will ask questions in which i don't know that answer. Please don't assume I'm just another guy who just posted up a topic without knowing a thing, and that didn't put in effort to look for himself. I really am not trying to attack anyone, it's just so frustrating that people think i would do something like that. I am sorry that i still am a lot newer then you guys at car audio. But that's why i am asking all of these questions. The reason i threw in the fact that i have talked to a engineer is because he too does a lot of similar stuff as us. As in, he understand electrical, DB's, and such, just as well as most of us on this forum. So to hear different ideas from him and to see his spin on things blows my minds sometimes and makes me want to ask questions (which i am doing right now). So my question with this is, why does he say (and it makes sense) that i could upgrade my alt but i don't need to. That the best thing to do would be to upgrade batteries. He also stated that the bigger alternator would be a good upgrade, he says it depends if i want to run of my alternator or my batteries. If i want to run off my batteries then i just need to get more batteries to hold a charge. That way my stock alt can still charge my batteries and there is really no need to upgrade my alt. I am just looking for an answer because all i hear is "upgrade to a bigger alt" without a real reason why. And seeing as h is logic makes a lot of sense... I would like someone to PLEASE back up the reason for upgrading to a bigger alternator and not doing what the engineer said. What we were thinking for the box is making the port tunable. Kinda what Steve did on his box in the Hoe. How you can screw on different sized ports and tune it differently. We were thinking around 28-32. So probably around 30 or 29. With the cubic feet, i don't have the notes on me, but i can give you an answer probably later tonight on that. I don't remember off the top of my head honestly. Another question that i was thinking was, is 2 HC1800 batteries okay for upgraded system ideas. I know that one is fine for my current, but when i upgrade my amp, will 2 be enough or will i need to upgrade to 4? I feel stupid that i didn't even ask this before but hey, better now then never i suppose. Also, seeing as we are still talking about alts above, i was thinking about DC power. Not sure what size alt either. How would i go about finding out how much power i need exactly with a alternator. I don't see the need in overkill on amps if i am not even going to use all of them, if that makes sense. I don't want to get a (lets say) 300 amp alt and then only need 200. Just a waste of money to me, feel free to correct me! I am pretty sure that my subs are 2ohms. I am not quite sure but that is my honest best bet on that. Sorry that i didn't include this before. So with the main topic still kinda being amps. I am getting a lot of different ideas but i haven't heard much about any of these. Like Atomic or American Bass. I will do so research on them but are there any problems, pro's and con's to these? I honestly don't know anything about these amps! Thanks guys for your feed back, i honestly am taking it all in. There so many more options that i haven't really even looked at till now. Don't think that I'm not grateful for all of your answers. This is really helping me a lot and I'm glad you guys took the time to reply and help me out with all of my various questions!

Well i know Rockford makes some powerful amps but i have asked this questions a lot and i get really dumb answers. I'm not trying to be ignorant. Your right, some BRAND named amps can do the job. I never said i really knew what i was taking about anyways lol. I was talking to a engineer that works with Jets (Yes, the ones that fly) and he pretty much said I don't need to have a bigger alternator, I more or less need more batteries. Which makes sense, because the alt will give me constant power but not as much as a battery can discharge. Also the stock can juice up all the batteries, just not be able to charge them very fast. If you guys have a different idea about it and I'm missing something, feel free to correct me. But it made sense to me. I am looking at the crescendo 3kwp and the sundowns but i know that crescendo kinda is done with amps till the end of this month? Sorry Hdorre, i haven't built the box yet, i am making sure i am making my wall to fit perfectly the 18's coming in. I also am not so sure about the woofers. That part is my fault for sure. But honestly, I'm not new at this, i don't see why there is a reason why i can't run 2kwrms. No offense, so please don't take it that way. It just confuses me why you think I'm so stupid. Also, would my 1800 kenwood amp work for now and would it blow my woofers? Well more or less, under power them causing them to break.

I will soon be working on walling my 1997 Honda accord with 2 18 inch DC subwoofers (level 4 with level 5 soft parts), running on 1 (soon to be 2) HC1800 batteries with stock alt, 1800 kenwood amp, zero gauge. Now i will be working on this project and i should be done sometime after December. My question for any car audio smarties out there is this, I will post the stats of the subs below for the level 4's and the level 5's. Now keep in mind that they are STILL level 4's but they contain level 5 parts (such as motor and spider). So my subs will fall in the middle of level 5 and level 4. Now the real question is this, What amp do you think i should be running to these woofers? I will be SUPER pissed if someone post something like, Alpine, MTX, Rockford, etc, etc. These are BRAND names that will NOT push the RMS i need on these subs. If you don't know much about car audio, PLEASE don' t post useless answers like that! So what do you think? I was looking at maybe some AQ's but I'm not quite sure. If you have any amps you are selling, feel free to let me know! Level 4 The Level 4 sub is a large double stacked motor weighing in at almost 30LBS each, wrapped in a magnet boot with a chrome top plate and T yoke yielding 23.5mm of X-Max You also get with the upgraded progressive spiders, cone, surround, 3" coil, cast basket, push terminals and upgraded lead wire. The Level 4 is rated at 1000w RMS and 2000w peak. Designed for ported enclosures and is a great choice for high-powered daily systems and competitors Key Features • Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly • Multilayered polymer foam surround • Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo • 8”OD semi cup progressive roll spider • Extra heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire • Cast aluminum black frame • FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly – Fully CNC machined • Rubber mounting gasket • Chrome spring loaded push terminals • Dual 2 ohm 3” Hi-temp Aluminum voice coil wound on black anodized voice coil former • Rubber magnet cover Level 5 73lbs triple stacked 1" slug, FEA optimized monster. We use a 8-layer flat wound 3" coil. Its available is D1ohm or D2ohm configurations. We also use upgraded multiple progressive spiders, upgraded cones, surround, lead wire, a cast basket and push terminals. Key Features • Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly • Multilayered polymer foam surround • Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo • 8”OD semi cup progressive roll spiders • Extra heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire • Cast aluminum black frame • FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly – Fully CNC machined • Rubber mounting gasket • Chrome spring loaded push terminals • Dual 1ohm or 2 ohm 3” 8 Layer Hi-temp Aluminum voice coil wound on black anodized voice coil former

then the speakers wont work rofl. what do you think gives them power? dont use headunit power btw. theres a big difference in sound quality and loudness if you use an external amplifier. oh also the amp has HPF/LPF/etc settings right on the side of it... Really?? I didn't think it mattered if i used the head unit for power... how would running the speakers on a amp (which has more power) make it sound cleaner?