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boomin

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Posts posted by boomin

  1. So I get pretty bad head light dimming, and I was wondering if this battery will work.

    It's a 12 volt battery from a golf cart, its in good shape and holds charge good and all. It's rated at 155 AH, which is very good I've heard. (stock is only like 55 AH)

    It has the cells thingy, and takes water that needs to be refilled everyonce in a while...I wil be enclosing it in a box, so if it ever gets knocked over (ie i get rear ended or something) the water/bat acid won't leak every where.

    And finally, will this be a good way to wire it?

    I would run 1/0 all the way to the trunk but its not long enough so I want to do half 1/0, than dist block to 2 runs of 4 AWG, than another dist block to 1/0 to the + on the battery.

    battconfig-1.jpg

    And finally, will my stock alt be able to charge both batterys? It's only a 70A alternator, will it be good enough to charge the stock battery and the golf cart battery? I've already done the big 3 if that helps.

  2. ^^ this or maby its not working right

    are the tweets ran threw the comps cross over, and mids going str8 to amp?

    also check wires going into cross over cause they might be wired wrong, i had that problem with my kicker comp set, i was moveing the cross overs and i had the wire comeing from amp going into tweet output and tweets wired to cross over input, it worked but distorted bad, but i soon fixed it lol

    but i unno what else could be ur problem, does the amp go to protect, or just speakers cut out?

    try to unhook each speaker till it stops, or try it without any speakers for a lil bit, i had to do this befor with one of my amps

    I will double check for wires being pinched, good idea.

    And the amp doesn't shut off or dim or go into protect or anything when it cuts out, it stays the same.

    The tweets AND mids are ran through the crossover.

  3. The amp is very small, rated at 250 watts max and 40x4 RMS, alpine MRP250

    1.idk, I have it hooked up to my components and the cross overs have both tweet and mid inputs, so i have ch1 going to tweet RIGHT, and ch2 going to mid RIGHT, and ch3 going to tweet LEFT, and ch4 going to mid LEFT. I heard it's a 2 way active setup, and should work like that.

    2. Thats what I did, I have (2) 4 gauges going into a dist. block, than from there (1) 4 gauge to sub amp, and (1) 8 gauge to speaker amp (the one thats giveing me trouble)

    3. Sub amp is PDX1000, I've never tryed turning it off to see it it still has that problem I will try it in a min, good suggestion.

    4. RCA's are perfect all around

  4. So I just installed my 4 channel amp, and it works great on low volumes but past 20 it cuts out....the bass works fine all the way up to 35, but the mids/highs amp won't play past 20, it cuts in and out at parts randomly and just won't play...what's wrong with it?

    Its all wired corectly, the gains are way down, the Bass boost is off, and the HP is set to 120 and the amp is set in HP mode.

    whats wrong with it?

  5. Ok, just making sure that I wouldn't be hurting any thing. So now with the other components (aftermarket, I think you guys thought they were stock), should I take them out all together, or put them in the back for passengers to listen to?

    I feel as if the rear passengers won't be able to hear the music good with out rear speakers, so I was thinking about running them off HU power.....heres my questions about that (sry for all the questions)

    -I've heard that Alpine head units clip after like volume 25, and the way to get past this is by putting in an aftermarket amp (which I have). So lets say I do run the Kenwoods off the HU, and MB Quarts off the amp....would the rear ones (kenwood) start to sound shitty after volume 25, while the MB's sound great still since there off an external amp?

    -Since the HU has 25x4 power ratings, could I run it at 50x2 since I only need to channels by bridging 2 channels together?

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