boomin

Around $175 shipped. That's what i usually see them sell for on the forums.

i still have my double din we talked about, if you wanna buy it ill sell it to you bro

a mint kenwood double din + cash on your end a SA15 straight trade or just cash

ttt

sell me the old 1200? nice setup though, DC makes some beast subs.

ttt

Must be in good shape, 10/10 mechanically. Don't have much cash, I'm in FL prefer local sale. Let me know what you got!

I know for sure my car can fit a group 34 tops, nothing bigger.

What front battery should I get? I was told I should get a group 34 size, but theres so many brands idk what to go with anyone wanna help out?

OK sounds good if i go down that route. final question, will i be better off just forgetting about a 2nd bat, and upgrading to a yellow top or Kinetic under the hood?

Well since I already have 7' of 1/0 and don't want to pull it out, could I just put a fuse and an extra 10' of 1/0 than another fuse and 1' of 1/0 to the battery? Using the fuse in the middle just to extend the wire?

So that battery will be OK then? And I would run 1/0 straight to the trunk, but it's not long enough so I just wanna use the 4 AWG to extend it. And your saying to not ground the amps to the batterys negative terminal, even if 1/0 is ran from the negative terminal to a good ground? And I'm only running about 1300 watts RMS.

btw this is the bat I will be using http://www.powerstridebattery.com/golf-cart-batteries/us-12v-xc-12-volt-golf-cart-battery

So I get pretty bad head light dimming, and I was wondering if this battery will work. It's a 12 volt battery from a golf cart, its in good shape and holds charge good and all. It's rated at 155 AH, which is very good I've heard. (stock is only like 55 AH) It has the cells thingy, and takes water that needs to be refilled everyonce in a while...I wil be enclosing it in a box, so if it ever gets knocked over (ie i get rear ended or something) the water/bat acid won't leak every where. And finally, will this be a good way to wire it? I would run 1/0 all the way to the trunk but its not long enough so I want to do half 1/0, than dist block to 2 runs of 4 AWG, than another dist block to 1/0 to the + on the battery. And finally, will my stock alt be able to charge both batterys? It's only a 70A alternator, will it be good enough to charge the stock battery and the golf cart battery? I've already done the big 3 if that helps.

I haven't tryed unhooking each one, I will try tomarrow. And the Ohm load I'm not sure on, but I'm pretty sure it should be 4 ohms.

I'm running these (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_19799_MB_Quart_PVI_216.aspx) even with the gain way down that amps putting out like 20wrms, theres no way it's being over powered....

Heres a little diagram as to how it's currently wired, its not too good but u get the idea....

I will double check for wires being pinched, good idea. And the amp doesn't shut off or dim or go into protect or anything when it cuts out, it stays the same. The tweets AND mids are ran through the crossover.

remote wire is OK, I will check behind the speakers tomarrow. Oh and update, I turned off the bass completely and still having the problem....

The amp is very small, rated at 250 watts max and 40x4 RMS, alpine MRP250 1.idk, I have it hooked up to my components and the cross overs have both tweet and mid inputs, so i have ch1 going to tweet RIGHT, and ch2 going to mid RIGHT, and ch3 going to tweet LEFT, and ch4 going to mid LEFT. I heard it's a 2 way active setup, and should work like that. 2. Thats what I did, I have (2) 4 gauges going into a dist. block, than from there (1) 4 gauge to sub amp, and (1) 8 gauge to speaker amp (the one thats giveing me trouble) 3. Sub amp is PDX1000, I've never tryed turning it off to see it it still has that problem I will try it in a min, good suggestion. 4. RCA's are perfect all around

Grounds are perfect, everything it looking good.... Could it be that I have 4 gauge then a fuse block, then 8 gauge?? idk and the ground is (2) 4 gauges, into a dist block, which from there goes out a 4 gauge than a 8 gauge....could that be the problem (although the sub amp is conected the same way?)

So I just installed my 4 channel amp, and it works great on low volumes but past 20 it cuts out....the bass works fine all the way up to 35, but the mids/highs amp won't play past 20, it cuts in and out at parts randomly and just won't play...what's wrong with it? Its all wired corectly, the gains are way down, the Bass boost is off, and the HP is set to 120 and the amp is set in HP mode. whats wrong with it?

ahhh screw going active then that looks too complicated... and I would run a 4ch as a 4ch, but I would be underpowering all my speakers by 30 watts each, which is 120 total and thats a pretty big difference.....

So i should use the old set off the HU, unbridged? And even with the gains way up, it still isn't loud at 25, just at 30, which still sounds like theres no distortion....is that bad? And could I run an active setup for the front components? Is this hard to do? Benefits? Is it louder or better SQ?

Ok, just making sure that I wouldn't be hurting any thing. So now with the other components (aftermarket, I think you guys thought they were stock), should I take them out all together, or put them in the back for passengers to listen to? I feel as if the rear passengers won't be able to hear the music good with out rear speakers, so I was thinking about running them off HU power.....heres my questions about that (sry for all the questions) -I've heard that Alpine head units clip after like volume 25, and the way to get past this is by putting in an aftermarket amp (which I have). So lets say I do run the Kenwoods off the HU, and MB Quarts off the amp....would the rear ones (kenwood) start to sound shitty after volume 25, while the MB's sound great still since there off an external amp? -Since the HU has 25x4 power ratings, could I run it at 50x2 since I only need to channels by bridging 2 channels together?