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TeamHT

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Posts posted by TeamHT

  1. honestly, i love the pioneer premeir lineup. when people are tight on money, and i dont have deals on anything else, this is what i reccomend every time. awesome clarity, performance without denting your wallet. especially when compared to other subs. but just because these are awesome subs doesnt mean committ. what are you aiming for in a system?

  2. really nice... demo'd one in my car at 4400 watts@1. crazy loud i wish i woulda bought it

    i bought 2 just because they were so cheap, and they performed SO nicely. just built a couple weeks ago a box for 4 12s, he ended up going with the pioneer championships. he was on a budget but this thing POUNDS. and theyre so cheap. look online and you can find them for really low prices. not all cheap stuff is cheap

  3. yeah i amsome i do.

    sorry for got to say i have aready done big three along ago. 1/0ga wire. so not even a small pully? i mean if i spin faster at idle wont it put out more say at 2000rpms?

    reducing the pulley size on the alternator to make it spin faster at the same engine speed can increase low RPM charge output, but it also carries many negatives which include increased parasitic drag, decreased belt life and thrown belts at higher revs. Keep in mind, typically underdrive crank pulleys are used on high performance engines to slow down accessories, not provide more idle amps.

    i would just find an alternator, heaps on this site, that have great idle amps. so much safer and more efficient in the long run

  4. in my case. the stock (CS130D) put out 45 amps at idle. and as for the AD244 put out around 100 amps at idle. so in my case it's a upgrade :shrug:

    i honestly would have gone with a different choice, but which series do you have? i think ad244 is a gm replacement for oem, but comes in 140, 170, 200, 250, and 350. im going to assume you have either the 140 or 170...

    you can upgrade the big 3, very important and a good way to utilize more from the new alternator. but i believe amps at idle are dependant on the product and company, not really possible upgrades that can be done

  5. im going to put this into my 2008 mustang gt as a rear seat delete for the subs and all fo the amps and batteries will be in the trunk and trunk will be completely isolated from the rest of car.

    i am running 3 15" fi btls, and 2 t4000s. i was seriously going to run at 16volts, but decided i didnt need that much. maybe later when i can make enough room for all the batteries.

    i was short on money since most of the money went to doing the caddy front end conversion (03 silerado) and many other cosmetic things, i used 2 d3100s which was reccomended from xs for daily use but 4 minimum if i wanted to use it in any comps. i ran the batteries until i was able to afford 3 more of the d3100s. i would definitely run 6 of the d3100s.

  6. what voltage were you wanting to run? 12v, 16v? before getting 5 d3100s, i was going to go with the d1600, and would reccomend running one d1600 for every 1500 watts. super pricey, not including the shipping. but it also depends on useage, daily or competition?

    definitely twin alternators, but the batteries are going to come down on how you plan on using the system, as if 3 of those badboys would be for daily use only, lol and at what voltage.

  7. honestly, it doesnt make a huge, noticeable difference. other than appearance. it doesnt matter if the engine is a sohc, grand am motor, if the engine bay is clean and spotless and the engine is shiny, it gives the impression of better performance. plus, who honestly wants to look at that?

    like painting, the hardest part about the engine bay is prepwork. but dont cut corners, make sure everything is sanded, taped, wires are seperated correctly and easy enough for you to put back. i wouldnt spend a lot of money on an expensive paint job, and a lot of people come to me asking to use rattlecan just to save them money. you can get everything you need at a smaller auto store. in fact, im powder coating a person valve cover right now and he asked me to do his engine bay. its a 96 eclipse gs-t, was red, but the color will soon be changing. heres a pic i just took with my cell.

    bay.jpg

  8. And i appreciate the suggestion. :good: I will have to take a look into them. Currently on my list I have a pair of Re SX 10"s at $350.00 new. Also a pair of 12" cvx's at $389.00 new. Box space available will be around 4 to 4.5 cubes roughly. In **MY** car, I have my 15"XL sitting in 4 cubes.

    i think hell be happier with the pioneers...lol. mind you he wont win any competitions but he will have very good, clean bass without breaking his wallet. whenever people ask to hook up speakers in their car but have no money this is what i offer. currently just finished making a box for 4 12s, and the girl is broke all the time and has only purchased 2 of them so far. two more to go and then an amp in her budget to push them. see..there i go getting sidetracked

    yes, i spilled some of my water into the box, lol

    box.jpg

  9. maybe because your amp didnt have enough power for the TRF's but when you changed subs since the Pioneers are weaker it got louder simply because its a lower rated woofer which takes it less power to get loud..but sometime people go with what sounds better at the moment.

    nope, the amp was sufficient. it was a daily driver so it didnt need anything uber loud and was powered by a t15001bd. the lows on the team rf 12s were incredibly louder and stronger, but the clarity and quality of the pioneers was superb. especially during the highs. it became really evident when i was bumping the song love lockdown by kanye west. but my audio system wasnt the point here...

    the point being, because i only dont want to get sidetracked...that can happen pretty easily around this time, is that you can get the subs for about $150 each. and they will handle the power which was exactly what the OP was looking for, two 10s or two 12s that could handle 3000watts for under $400.

  10. you know, i would have to reccomend pioneer premier championships. i wasnt expecting these subs to do so well. i have 2 in a 4.5 cu ft ported box (i know, but youd be surprised how well this works out) and they replaced my team rf 12s. theyll max out at 3500 watts each, but these are some serious subs for so cheap. find them on onlinecarstereo.com or woofersetc.com for $150 not including the shipping.

    now i dont want to make it seem as if these subs were better than team rf 12s, but bass clarity, sound quality, and spl was all there and i couldnt ask for more. these would hit the highs so nicely and the lows so cleanly, i couldnt complain. these take a little longer than other subs ive owned but run them free air and then DUMP!

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