bayoublaster

I have a question that is specifically concerning an enclosure for two Rockford Fosgate T215D2(s). On RF website they display a plan for their “powerful enclosure” to be the best enclosure for these subwoofers. Can its listed dimensions and port area be modified to suit my needs for the enclosure to custom fit into my ’04 GMC Yukon? The diagram below list all of the measurements and volumes both Net, Gross, Port Size (Height and Length), Slot Port Tuning and a cut sheet. Can I modify these measurements and still retain all of the internal volumes for both the interior of the enclosure and the slot port and have the enclosure perform as this custom RF designed enclosure? I have inserted a hyperlink below to show you guys the enclosure that I am referencing. RF T215D2 Powerful Enclosure I want two separate chambers for each of the subwoofers because I was told that if one of them would ever fail it would not cause the other one to be damaged due to much internal volume of the enclosure. I have built one enclosure that housed two Savard 15’s probably 20 years ago but I’m sure that the only reason that I had an enclosure that worked so well was due to it being designed by a local Savard factory representative at the time and then all I had to do was fabricate it. It was a slot ported enclosure and was pretty huge and played major loud with only 500 RMS driving them. Thanks to all of you who respond!!!!

I am thinking about a kit that will drop the ride by 2" front and 3-4" in the rear. Wheels, around $1.5 to $2K. Tires, around $1 to $1.5K I figure that for around $4K is bout my limit.

First, I am thinking about dropping my ride but I really need some advice from someone whom has a similar ride that can recommend a kit. I have around a $1K to spend and I want the best kit that I can buy for that cash. I want a kit that still presents a good ride for the highway. Second, wheels, wheels and more wheels! In ya'lls minds who manufactures some top notch wheels...like 24's? How much should I expect to spend on some wheels that are of a very good quality? Third, tires... You already know the question so give me some feedback.. Thanks Ya'll!

did you mean to say to install a fuse no longer than 18" from the battery or did you really mean the amp. I think that I would fuse at the battery so that the only cabling that would actually possibly fail would be the cabling on the load side of the fuse and the line side cable would be protected by the fuse.

headroom..... please explain? How do you keep from blowing the components? volume control...amp gains calibration? i have a RF T600-4 to run front and rear components in my '04 Yukon and most of the shops are telling me that the amp is to big for any of their recommended component systems...

I am looking for components (6.5 - 6.75 X tweeters) that have higher power handling. Am I f*^ked in the head for thinking that higher RMS handling equates to higher dB? I have RF T600-4 to run components and I want to get the most out of my amp and components system. Which components do you guys use and at what RMS power (size of amp) for your systems?

Why should there have two fuses installed on the same cabling run from the POS of the main battery and the POS of the aux. battery? Aren't the fuses to protect the wiring? Please explain....later

well i guess that I will be putting it up for sale.........

So I guess that I should scrap the capacitor then....

I am building up a system in my '04 Yukon. I will be powering one RF T1500-1bd and two T600-4(s). The T1500-1bd will be running two RF 15" T215D2(s) and the two T600-4(s)will be powering RF T2652-S components mids and highs. I have decided to go kind of "overkill" as far as the power and ground wiring goes due to the fact that if I would ever upgrade and need more power the pain in the rear of running these cables will be already done. I will be installing a one new cranking battery (Kinetic HC1400)and a new battery (Kinetic HC2400) deticated for the audio system. I will be performing the big three upgrade under the hood using 0 gauge cable and installing 0 gauge cabling from the cranking battery to the audio battery. I will be upgrading my stock alt. as soon as I find one that I like. Should I run both 12VDC(+) and 12VDC(-)from battery to battery or just the 12VDC(+) from cranking battery(+) to audio battery(+)? Should I connect a my 0 gauge grounding cable from the audio battery(-) to a grounding point as close as possible to my audio battery and not run it all of the way back to the cranking battery(-)? I also will be installing a RF RFC10HB capacitor on the load side of the audio battery. I have seen on a couple of threads here that some people frown on using a capacitor. Whats this issue all about? Eclipse CD7200MK2 HU (Ipod controls, XM radio, HD radio), Eclipse 8 Disc CD Changer,(1)RF T1500-1bd,(2)T600-4,RF RFC10HB Capacitor, RF T2 15" subs, RF mids and highs.