big dee
-
Posts
2616 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by big dee
-
-
ported with separate chambers right? since he is running 2 amps 1 sub on each.
no need for separate chambers. unless you were going with a sealed encloser
-
use pvc it will be way cheaper than resin and glass and cleaner and faster and look better and stronger. use sch 40 pipe
-
go with a ported box.
-
the cvrs will have better sq than the l5 but the l5 will hammer harder so it depends what you want too
-
in the right box the single l5 should put out more than the cvrs i think anyways
-
cvrs are entry level subs. so i would say noAh ok, not too bad. I'll read up on building, thanks.
One more quick question for you, or any kicker guys out there. I friend is offering to trade me his 2 CVR12's (4Ohm) in a ported box:
is that a good trade? before i start working on a box for the L5
-
you can pm sam or ram @audio savings and they will give you a price on here
-
under 75 bucks i would say for every thing you need just mdf is 25 to 30 a sheet an the same on carpet
-
prob some where you could get a better one . i always build my owne boxes try audiosavings.com they sell boxes
-
move the box closer to the back of the trunk and that should help too
-
the box is to small i think it should be 2 times that size from what i can see . prob why you dont have low notes too
-
try elimanating all things thats not done right like the ground wire an see if that helpsWell first, I'd like to say hello, I just joined this forum. I just started with car audio a few years ago
Here's my current setup in my 1997 Pontiac GTP
- Kenwood KDC-MP345U Headunit
- Kicker L5 15" in Ported Box ( Box not much bigger than Sub)
- Kicker zx750.1 Amp
- 2 GA Power, running off stock power sources
- "Big Three" done under hood
Here are the problems: The sub doesn't seem to be hitting as hard as it should. I have bass-boost on amp all the way down, gain on 8/11, and headunit bass flat. It doesn't hit fairly low notes, e.x. it sounds to be struggling to hit the notes in "Burn Rubber" by Too Short, and doesn't hit fairly high notes for this kind of sub, e.x. it half ass's the higher notes in "Top Back" by T.I. (not trying to tune my subs to songs, just trying to give easy examples)
how olds the sub , you might have a bad coil , or the box is not tuned right. or like you said could be the ground wire your talking about. elimanate every thing you think it could be and see what you have then
Here's what i think it is personally, the frequency nob moves, but doesn't seem to change anything sound-wise. Is this because there is a problem with the amp, or is it my headunit with the "Pass Thru option selected"?
Also, my ground wire is a very cheap quality ebay 0 GA clipped to 2 GA. The wire strands seem thinner than the one's from my speaker wire.
To add to note, The sub doesn't really flex at all tbh, although it hits, it does flex. When I had my older oldschool bd1000.1 amp, it flexed/hit hard, but amp overheated.
Any tip, suggestions, or solutions? Thanks in advance. Great forum to be part of.
- Kenwood KDC-MP345U Headunit
-
Could fry it faster, but if your giving it rated or less than rated it only means it will heat up faster. Heat doesn't always mean fry and in some cases a warm sub could play better than a cool one.
ive noticed that with my aq hdc. sounds better after its been played for a min or two. but its still kinda stiff
-
read the op's post lol
he says cones, cones, cones
not coils coils coils
i missed that, he must mean coils tho
-
but...they dont make alum. cones or copper cones?
do you mean coils?
-
From what i have learned from Ed Lester, Alum naturally heats up quickly and cools down quickly. These are best for burps.
Copper takes a long time to hear up and a long time to cool. Best for daily.
Could be the other way around, i forget now.
so would that mean that if you used a alui coil sub daily you could fry it faster than copper coil sub?
-
From what i have learned from Ed Lester, Alum naturally heats up quickly and cools down quickly. These are best for burps.
Copper takes a long time to hear up and a long time to cool. Best for daily.
Could be the other way around, i forget now.
[/quote thats right. i think
-
hifonics betwin the two. but i would go with aq22ood
-
same thing happend to my re sx 18 in like 10 mins but i resodered it and no more problems. but i sold it not long after i got it. i will never buy re audio again un less its a mt
-
i would go with mdf. i think boxes built with mdf sound better than any type of ply woods no matter what kind of wood it is
-
i like to have more power than you need any way.
-
I have 4 hifonics hfi's, rated at 300rms a piece. I can get a good deal on a 2600w Brutus, which does 1700w at 2 ohms. I am assuming it is overrated a little bit and doesnt actually put out 1700w. Would I be safe if I set my gains with a dmm or am I better off with a 2000w Brutus?
i say go for it, im running 8 of those subs. and im putting around 1500 watts over and they do fine. but they will get a lil warm if you hammer on em for a while. ive smoked 3 of them in a few months time but there very cheap. so i try to kill em ever time. and they hold up good. if you blow one just get more. so i say hammer on.
-
Im basically am looking for Deep bass over SQ .. Because i have my Mids and High which will take care of that ..
Would you say that they are deep enough? Like i want Mirror shaking, roof flexing bass lol
go with the re sx 18 deep bass and sounds good, thats what i had before i got 12s.
-
go with the 95s and get some power to push em, but both are good it realy depends on what you want tho.
Super Bass box??
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
need more info and some pics