skinny16

Right now, 8:1, but its actually soon gonna be 12:1 if I can get the RF T2 6.5 comps to fit in the Qlogic Kickpanels I just got

Well that's their rated power, so it will be fine. Just make sure the signal isnt clipped when you set the gains. What amp are you running them with?

Here are pics of the only damage experienced from the short

glad you were able to find the problem, bro...and that it was such an easy fix. Problems like this don't go away on their own, and usually lead to major damage if not remedied right away ya i definitely lucked out on that, the thing i was most worried about was the amps, they are both fused but you never know. I like the discussion of grounds on here, which is funny since I ran another ground last night to the frame, then read all the discussion over it and lol'd. From what i have heard, the strut tower is a good ground, just figured after the incident, another ground wouldnt hurt.

Alright, its not my week this week. first, i had the problem figured out last night but my internet wont let me sign on smd, keeps sayin request is bad. Anyway, the battery holddown bar's hooked end broke, idk when, but this caused the battery to shift and hit the hood, shorting out. But somehow, it didnt damage a single wire or fuse, and the battery is resting at 13v so i majorly lucked out. I got the battery secured now, and also i reconfigured the bus bars so they are far safer now.

1 ground goes to the strut mount, one goes to the engine block. Both are secure, and as for the bus bars, they are both on top of the battery, and I made them so they wouldnt touch the hood or anything around them. But I am headed out to the garage right now, hopefully can find out what the hell is goin on

Ya, I mean, the car still runs now, but it doesnt really explain how it shut off completely, then all of the sudden gained power again, like something is loose. But all the wires are secured, zip tied, no fuses blew during this whole thing, so its got me scouring my car for clues to what exactly happened, lol

I just installed some bus bars on top of my battery up front(for less voltage drop, more expandability), soldered and wired everything up. No problem, but then I was driving today and my head unit seemed to be kickin on and off, which didnt worry me too much. Then my car completely shut off.....so i pulled over luckily into a parking lot and checked it out, and smelled like i fried somethin, but there are no fuses blown from the alt-battery 1/0 run or the stock wiring from the alt to the battery. Then that had my looking at the grounds, and those are all solid. I didnt change anything with the wiring under the engine, just added ring terminals so they could attach to the bus bars. Any suggestions/advice would be much appreciated!

Haha I kind did the BS way of testing it(turn everything electrical on, rev it, etc.) so i'm sure it wasn't tapping into everything this alternator has. But I found out between my two amps my system can pull close to 190 amps, so I may need to get some batteries

I have a T1500-1BDCP at .7 Ohm and a T600-4. The Battery is grounded to the block and strut tower,and the alternator is grounded to the frame.

I double Checked, the Pulley is approx. 2.25" and the Crank is approx. 5.25", give or take a quarter inch. Putting it at around 2.3:1. I clamped the alternator today and the highest current I got when it was loaded/revved was 159 Amps(Stereo up about 3/4, blower on high, lights on, etc.) I am gonna be adding a second battery to the back and seeing if the voltage drop won't be as bad, since all I have is the 1 HC1800

Crank/Pulley Ratio is about 2:1, maybe closer to 3:1, but the redline is 6200rpm and never gets close to that. Wired the sub down to .7 Ohm and goes down to 12.9-13.1 when full tilt, which with about 2400rms watts, i dont think that is too terrible. Still havent got the second kinetik in or 2nd run of 0 Gauge yet

I have the Kinetik under the hood, thats the only battery in the car at the moment, I have a stinger Volt Meter reading from the Alternator, I haven't clamped it or anything to see what exactly its putting out at Idle. But the new Alternator should be outperforming my stock 70amp one at idle I would think :/

I just installed an Iraggi 190A Alt into my Toyota Camry, and if anything extra runs(Lights, blower, etc.) the voltage will go down to around 12.7-12.9 and stay down there unless I rev it. Wired Big 3, Grounds grinded to bare metal, Kinetik HC1800, etc. This only happens when the RPM's are below 1000