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homiewes

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Posts posted by homiewes

  1. you guys are looking at the fuse ratings wrong. something i read on fusing.

    just for future references, a good spec to look at is the fuse rating.

    40a x 5

    40 amps * 5 = 200 amps

    200 * 14.4 = 2880

    2880 * .8 (typical class D efficiency) = 2304

    hmm your close.. try this..

    I measure 12.8V, take 65% eff and my amp have two 30 amp fuse:

    30A * 2 = 60A

    60A + 1/3 = 80A (current point to blast fuse)(sinwave input-----squarewave output)

    Now we need to calculate the RMS output value ...we will use 60A value

    60A * 12.8V = 768VA

    768VA * 0.65 = 499 ...say 500Watt RMS output

    so what you're saying is that at 80 amp draw the fuses will blow and that your figuring the rms output at 12.8 volts 65% efficiency?

    correct :yahoo:

  2. selenium midbass??? never seen those. thought they were all pro drivers.

    midbass back there can work for you. tell me power you have at 4 and 8ohm and a budget and ill see if i can find something that will work for you.

    Ima be running a mb quart onx4.125 idk what it puts out at 8 ohms. Nothing more than 100

    sorry to interupt but whenever i see your swag picture i just stare at it LOL. good stuff B)

  3. Not realy. kicker spec say it can go in 5 cubes ported but I like atleast 10 or more

    oh i was thinking 7 was minimum. and if you go bigger you should tune lower.. but smaller boxes are nice because your subs can handle more power with a smaller enclosure. but your prolly not adding more power so build a 10 cube box tuned to 28-30 :hi:

  4. Glad that you're happy with it. SoloX's are some nice subs, they just tend to get talked bad about because they're Kicker and aren't rated to take 2x's their rated power.

    yeah they're nice but require an obnoxious sized box..

  5. Would a Level 4 be all right on a sundown saz 1500.1 @ 1ohm? I know DC subs are underrated but I don't know by how much. New to DC products, figured I would try them out. Any help/suggestion would be much appreciated. Thanks

    i would say that would be a good setup.. you may have to take it easy on the gains.. but DC subs can take poundings so maybe not..

  6. Does powerbass make good stuff or do the lower prices seem too good to be true? Anyone know? How do they compare to RF?

    powerbass = garbage IMO.. RF = great quality.

    Why garbage? just because it isn´t as expensive as your RF??? i mean, i have a 400.4 for about 5 years now without any problems, i used an asa1500.1 and sounded awesome for the price, also ested the xta4000D and it´s a monster, it can take 0.5 ohms for music and 0.25 ohms for burps without any problems, not like your RF by the way ;)

    By the way, look at Pulse car audio videos using a pair of powerbass amps for a single DD 9515 hitting 157 dbs sealed on the dash, and then you might think again about saying is garbage, of course, i respect your opinion as your preferences by using RF wich i totally understand, but garbage?? yeah right ;)

    run that powerbass at .25 daily and see how long it will last.. when it comes to amps you should not cheap out.. sure the 4 channel ones may work alright.. but in the long run of going through cheap amps you could have bought one nice one that lasts years and years.. :shtf:

  7. you guys are looking at the fuse ratings wrong. something i read on fusing.

    just for future references, a good spec to look at is the fuse rating.

    40a x 5

    40 amps * 5 = 200 amps

    200 * 14.4 = 2880

    2880 * .8 (typical class D efficiency) = 2304

    hmm your close.. try this..

    I measure 12.8V, take 65% eff and my amp have two 30 amp fuse:

    30A * 2 = 60A

    60A + 1/3 = 80A (current point to blast fuse)(sinwave input-----squarewave output)

    Now we need to calculate the RMS output value ...we will use 60A value

    60A * 12.8V = 768VA

    768VA * 0.65 = 499 ...say 500Watt RMS output

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