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Posts posted by homiewes
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I was planning on calling rockford on monday. I just want to know why this happened to my amp.. what causes a MOSFET to get cooked? i never had a problem with this amp till i ran its first 1ohm load in my new car..
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the yellow things are tantalum capacitors.
Kind of looks to me either the MOSFET, resistor, or capacitor is cooked.
so if i replace all 3 of those the amp should work again? and where would i even get ones to match?
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Anyone help?
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Got the pic up of burnt spot, cleaned.. anyone know why this may of happened? or what causes this to burn??
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I really could use some help on this.Will someone walk me through how to put pics in here.
upload your pics to photobucket..Copy the IMG code. and past the code into the insert image button on the add reply section of this forum, its next to a big yellow smiley face lol
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Pictures to blurry for me to tell anything in detail.
ill get a pic of the same spot all cleaned up on here in a minute
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MOSFET looks cooked.
The burnt spot is now cleaned up with some rubbing alcohol.. and it looks like it came from the grey long thing..resistor? and as you can see there are little orange things on the right hand side of them.. i think the orange thing was bent over and touching it.. maybe that was the cause?
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A week or two ago my amp started cutting out to the point where it went into protect mode, and made a terrible high pitched screeching noise.. smelt like burning plastic.. Is anyone familiar with what all these resistors going around the amp is for? and maybe why this happened?
cleaned up the burnt spot
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the amp might have been going bad im not sure.. right before i unhooked everything the amp was in protect mode and was making a weird ass screeching noise.. its weird because my friend has a RF t2500 and his amp is making the same screeching noise as my t4000.1.. maybe rockford amps tend to go bad?
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anyone else have some ideas?
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Def should have done the big three. Gotta have proper wire to deliver the amperage that the amp needs to function. Did the amp get hot at all?
i never really got to play it long enough to even check if the amp got hot
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is that 13.5v at the amp itself? or at the battery/volt meter on the dash.
The volt meter wired to the alternator.
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How many amps were drawn at the amp on full tilt?
i couldnt tell you, i never tested it.
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I highly doubt the distro is the issue, I would do a run of 0ga - and + to the rear batts pulling that much power,
are you running too low of an ohm load? I've seen a few RF amps have issues going below 1ohm. check your pre outs too
i would have ran a run to the (-) from front to back but i ran outta wire. and at first i was running a 1ohm load, and i eventually wired it to 4 ohms and the problem still existed..
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I dont see where your back cable is hooking to the front. If you connected it to that little dinky terminal that would be a big mistake........ If you hooked your wire up through the dist. box then it would have been a bigger mistake. Not doing the big three could have been very helpful as well......
that dinky terminal isnt actually that small, it worked great, and the big 3 has nothing to do with it, when my system did play at full tilt, i only dropped from 14v to like 13.5v at Idle
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Can you post a pic of the front battery with the wires connected to it? I want to see the terminals and such...
i dont have a pic of that.. i got pissed and tore everything out right away. all it was, was a normal front to back battery setup. fuse was 18 inches away from front battery, and 18 inches away from back battery.. 0 guage ring terminals as connectors sotered on..
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Head unit?
Rcas to b exact
I had a problem with a bad output from my headuit that cut out the music like a skipping cd but i never fried an amp. Just a thought to check while your diagnosing the problem
im running a decent alpine deck, and for RCAs i got a new pair that i have never used up until i did this install, and that was the next thing on my list to try and put my old ones back in, but my amp fried before i got the chance.
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In4pics
Now, answer me this. What does this distro block have to do with your system?
well as you can see, the front battery connects to the distro block.. where as the batteries in the trunk do not connect to it, they just connect to the front battery through a positive. im not familiar with the distro block so im wondering whats going on..
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Did you have the big three done? Did you run your wire from the front battery to the back batteries? What size wire was used?
nah i never got around to doing the big 3.. all 1/0 guage wires, and i had a positive from the front battery to the back batteries with the correct fuses in between. i never ran a ground from front battery to back battery though.
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Ive never had a problem with a system until i bought my Crown Vic Police interceptor a few months ago.. i just recently bought 2 fi Btl N2 15s, and built a box for them. i had my rockford t4000.1 powering them with 2 xs power d3100s and a 220 amp HO alt. The thing is when i would turn it up it would cut out.. now it wouldnt always cut out, sometimes i got lucky and it would play for a minute at full tilt. I tried everything to fix it, from doing a new ground right to the frame to pulling all wires and everything out to double check..i thought maybe it was the 3100s doing it, so i disconnected them and just had my main front battery hooked up, and thats when my amp fried..
Could this be something to do with Fords power distribution box? or voltage regulator or something? I would love to know why this happened.. ill post some pics of what im talking about..
ALSO it got to the point were it just went from cutting out to where my back fuse between the battery and the amp would blow, i replaced it, and it blew again, i replaced it one more time and my amp went into protect and made a nasty noise..
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I have two N2 18's in exactly 12 cubes/6 cubes per sub. 17.5 sq in of port per cube. Tuned to 37 Hz. On two AQ 2200's. Only had them for two days, but they sound great(best sounding sub I've owned) and put up pretty good scores to be so stiff.
Nice, your wall looks pretty sexy ;p
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Or maybe your alt isnt charging right?
Videos Of Dc Audio Subs!
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Posted
heres some vids of my DC XL m2 12's, pretty nasty for being in the trunk of a grand prix.