littlebuck1919
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Posts posted by littlebuck1919
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12v with a "regular" battery (car off)
14v with the car on, or 14v battery/ies
16v charging requirements for 14v batteries (actually thy like 16.5+v i believe
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Are you sure those Pyle's can take 500w ? I have never heard of the PND8 before but the brand isn't known for its quality so I would be skeptical to see them actually play 500w rms.
Let me add that it is no way in hell that Boss Amp you mentioned was doing anywhere near 4000w. Plus why would you want a 4000w mid range setup? I think you would be happier seeing those mids take a good clean 150 each. i would look at the Crescendo c1100.4 or 1600.2 the Sundown 200.4 DC 175.4 and just get one tune it the right way (dd1/cc1 or oscope) and really throw some clean power at em and see how they hold up.
this is what ive found about them
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Also...when running the wires from the alt...do u disconnect the old ones then put the new ones on or do u just set the new wires on top of the old ones
in my mind....it depends....does the power wire from ur alt go to ur starter??? if so, it goes to ur battery too...i just use the factory power wires....no harm...most of the juice is going through the 1/0 anyways
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well, its not a bad idea to run grounds from ur battery to the fram and to the engine block individually...seeing as how theres motor mounts between them otherwise (kinda doubting it's metal on metal) and power from ur alt to ur battery, as well as the factory power wire to ur alt again, and to ur battery (sometimes it goes to ur starter) and power from ur bettery (with a fuse less than a foot or less (i believe) from ur battery) to ur amp, and if u cant run a ground from ur battery, go ahead and find something that goes to the frame from ur amp
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dont forget to check ur RCA's...my DC2k was D.O.A. i thought....till i hooked up a new pair of RCA's, so try that if nothing else works?? my .02
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definately wouldnt use my 2k...maybe my old Punch 150 just to see...it just dnt seem like a great idea...didnt know they could be used to cut thin steel
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by the looks of it...and sounds of it...he musta accidentally devoured a lot of those strips of lead when he had this idea...
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thats part of why i dont play COD....way too many hackers/cheaters...seems better on BF3...but still seems to be less reports of accounts getting hacked on Xbox than on PS3
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just my .02 since its happened to me...but maybe its ur RCA's? i have a DC 2k...right when i got it, it was always in protect...swapped out the RCA's and it works...just a thought...can happen to anybody at any time...
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lil jon - bme click
not at the 1:20ish point its not...
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Fire ur subs forward into the cabin and seal it up. You won't need to worry about the spoiler.
^^^this, fire into the cabin, then seal off the box off from the rest of ur trunk and u should be golden
ninja'd multiple times lol
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ask for pros and cons of each?? or personal experiences?
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arent those not supposed to be used for a main battery??
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lol no, because Pioneer, JL Audio, etc are great (they arent that bad for what they are, cept JL is overpriced).....that and theres people who will go spend 5k on a truck to lift it and put big tires on it and all that and not even go off-road or anything like that....and not think twice about it
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this may not be the same for u (as i drive a 2000 cavlier with a 2.2) but i only lose city mpg...overall responsiveness is the same (maybe a little better) as stock....but i have a 280 amp alt, a D3400 under the hood, 1/0 everywhere, a pair of sony's in the trunk (ran out of cash, will be upgrading sometime lol) and a DC2k in my car, my highway mpg is still just as good as stock, cant be too noticable when ur car has about 3 times the power mine does
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Anton Miller does 150+ (i wanna say ive heard of 153+) from a trunk of a '97 cavalier on 12's. his Cavy is a beast (IMO)
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cuz its just one channel (ive never used one of these) but it says mono block, even if u hooked one "channel" to each coil, itll still be 1ohm, if u hook them both up to one coil, itll be 1ohm
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ok guys, thanks im no good at fiberglassing or nothing, but i can get a metal mount made (id hope) to put it down by my legs or something so its not right in my eyes and yeah, i just wanted to be sure on the wire part, since ill be dropping it down to 1ohm (before rise) with my next pair of subs.
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its a monoblock amp...so i do not believe u can bridge it...ull still end up with a 1 ohm load (assuming u use both coils)
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This one
http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_1898wt_1037
I've heard it's more reliable than the Stinger meters. And it's only 4 bucks. The bitch is that it's from Hong Kong. 2 weeks for delivery.
lol 1-3 weeks for delivery, i was thinking maybe an in-line one to be put near my amp?? maybe this??
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im jw, whats a good volt meter to have put into my car?? one that can go in line with the power wire near the amp? or what? im jw. and if i can run another run of 1/0 through my car, should i use it as a ground, or a second power wire and just ground to seat belt bolts and stuff like that?? (cavalier if it matters with a DC 2k for an amp, plan on running it at .5 before rise in time, but id ,ike to try to plan ahead)
please and thanks,
Alex
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im no pro (not a know-nothing like other ppl in town lol) but i had a friend who bought a BAMF 4k...with only 120 amps of fuses....no way it would have every hit 4k...over rated, good if u know they wnt give u what ur expecting, his never got hot though.
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wire prolly got too hot?? i guess depends on what size wire, u may have been pushing too much power throught it and caused it to heat up and melt, likely to happen with ur other wire/s too. my .02
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Pipo Sanchez, ive seen this once or twice, badass.
This video just blew my mind.
in Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic
Posted
musta had one hell of an allignment....i wouldnt trust a car with a shit steering wheel like that...no matter what...seein as how i want to live