dj00140

http://www.esslinger.com/brush-miniaturesteelonmandrelssingleperea.aspx Something like this and a power drill? I mean I was hammering at it with a flat head and it was barely coming off at all!!!

Well I just fixed the stripped threads on my motor and took apart my sub and got some bigger bolts to hopefully hold the motor on a little better this time anyways I got the cone and spiders off and used acetone to get the remaining glue and surround off of the top of the basket. Now the spider landing is solid as a rock. I have managed to chisel away and pry most of it away with a plier, but there is still a 4-5mm layer of solid rock hard glue/spider on the spider landing. Have any of you guys ran into this? Can I just glue the spider over this? How much is a new basket from DC? If you have to pm me that I would appreciate it, because at this point I might have to get a new basket... Thanks in advance.

Ok well Im going to use both ideas, Get the recoil kit, which is 9mm and tap the rest of the hole with an m6 tap and get 16mm bolts, the hole is 20mm deep. I will only drill out enough space for the recoil so I have the remainer stock thread for my stock bolts, Now i just hope that the threads on the bottom line up with the recoil kit... DIDNT think of that til just now

Thanks for the idea... so your saying just get a bottom tap and dont even drill out the old threads, just tap it to the bottom of the hole and keep it the same size?

But yes I do understand its going to be a pain to work with magnetized, but if I get the tap in there and I should be able to tap it right?

HAHAHA I mean if this isn't this biggest hater on SMD I dont know who is. Just read that... soapbox u r a hating ass bltch!!!

Yea u retard, How do u get stripped head from stripped thread and I need to tap the motor???? I mean even after I clarified it u still didnt understand? This is a easy fix i'll pm u pics of my beast ass sub thats gonna be shitting on u once its fixed and bangin out 150's all day!!! Just admit ur a dumass soapbox come one we all know its true.... Thanks to all the people who came inot this thread to help and not come in to talk shit...

THE BOLTS ARE NOT BROKEN OFF, THE THREADS ARE STRIPPED IN THE MOTOR The bolts are fine!!! I need a helicoil type device, or I need to tap the female part (threads) to the next size up so the bolts will thread into them!!! How are you gonna tell me to pull my head out my ass when you didnt read the thread??? NDM and soapbox, you guys obviously need glasses or to clean out your eyes, or else just go back to first grade and learn to read?

I dont think pics will help, the bolts are not broken off in the magnet, the bolts were ripped out of the magnet and are still in the basket, There was no support under the magnet, so if it was dropped from 6 feet, the basket had something to support it but the magnet had nothing to slow it down or stop it so gravity just kept pulling it and the bolts were not strong enough to stop it Now The bolts shouldnt go all the way through right? I alredy made the mistake of leaving the motor sit in my room with out taping it up so i cleaned the dust out, but i def dont want metal shavings in there, I think that link I posted with the helicoil type kit will work best.

What do you guys mean I cant just tape over the top of the gap??? NDM clarify that statement I really dont want to F this up! but anyways its actually a m6 metric bolt, I think I am just going to get this kit and re-use the same size bolts! http://www.newmantools.com/recmet.htm

There wasnt any support below the magnet, so it must of got dropped and ripped of thr basket, its weird though because when I thread them in it appears the threads are only stripped on the very top like 1/4" but IDK. Cant I just tape up the top of the gap, I mean the bottom of the bolt holes arnt exposed to the gap are they? I thought they were sealed on the bottom? And I called DC they will not fix it.

So I got a DC XL 15" beast and the basket is attached to the magnet with 6 1/4"-28 x1/2" long bolts and they all stripped out during shipping. So I am about to buy a tap/drill combo set. Now I am assuming I will just need the next size up which is a 5/16" tap and drill combo which I assume comes with a 1/4" drill to clean up all the old threads that are in the motor holes? Does anyone know if this is the right size tap I will need? Can I just drill out the basket if needed to fit the bigger bolts? Any sources would be great as well! I am going to try and get 3/4" bolts instead of the weak *** 1/2" ones that came stock I dont know if they will fit yet. Im also using a grip of lock tight. Also what pitch tap will I need? I am not saying its DC's fault i havnt heard of this happening before and it wasnt packaged well from the guy who shipped it. And last thing, someone said I gotta remove my top plate to do this? Is that true, its not mis aligned or anything??? Thanks for the help! (if anyone responds lol i have bad luck with threads )

Not bad for the freq, cut that port in half and test...

I just pm'd him asking him why and how hes gonna do it, if I have him repair it... Im really thinking of just calling car audio quits for the time being, as much as I love it, I mean thats all i have been doing for the past month is sketching box designs researching amps, subs and everything car audio, i just dont have the money to get the sub bangin... Idk I'll think on it for a few days, anyone elses opinions/info is appreciated

$200 with shipping, I got it all free, DC wont fix the motor tho thats the thing, so it would be like $185 shipped both ways for DC to recone my XL and then I would have to tap the motor myself, Idk why he said in order for it to be tapped correctly you had to remove the topplate? Im thinking my best bet is just to have it all fixed by the one guy for $200 I mean I could try to do everything meself to learn but I just dont want to screw it up... and I would have to ream the basket to fit the bigger bolts... which i am assuming is just drilling it out? Im just really pissed about the whole situation, I had my heart set on a DC XL for awhile and my gf lost her job so we have literally been livin off of like nothing, as I got to pay our rent and all the bills, so there was not gonna be money for me to buy a sub anytime soon and i got super lucky when this dude wanted to trade for my laptop because thats the only way I could afford my dream sub lol and now i dont even know if I can afford to get it fixed, And its not worth sellin cause I will only get like $90 out of it which I will have to split the original sellers, ya i could tell him I just kept it but he has been so cool about everything I am not gonna screw him over, he's already out a laptop. But I am gonna get him something one way or another because hes just a really nice guy and there isnt many good ppl out there like him anymore Thanks everyone for your input This just really really sucks for me!!! Maybe Someone will fix it for my laptop lol its worth like $400, but i was hopin I could trade that for a better amp cause the one I was gonna get stuck powerin it with was da weakness lol~

Ok so I was goin to do a trade for my laptop on caco, The guy was shipping his dc xl 15" first to me, insured but he used the DC box and everything looked good, but there was a gap under the magnet so nothing was supporting it and it got ripped off the basket stripping out all the holes on the motor, now I have to retap the motor holes and recone the sub, who can fix this and how much? I have an offer from SPLaudio on ca.com he would use hisown parts which would save me the $135 from buying the recone through DC and I dont think DC will recone for me correct? I could probably tap it myself but I dont know how to recone, and im thinking that the $160 plus shipping is going to be the best bet? any got any other ideas?? Also is there a special process on fixing the motor? Someone said something about removing the top plate to do it correctly and reaming the holes on the basket to fit the bigger bolts, I cant do all that lol and even if dc would do the recone they wont fix the motor... So Im basically wondering if the $160 to fix and recone is my best bet... It will be about $40 shipped both ways through my work! Also about the trade the dude was cool as hell and had money so he just said I COULD KEEP THE SUB FOR FREE!!! since it was his fault and UPS insurance wont cover it because it wasnt packed good enuf... I told him if I end up selling the motor Ill split the money with him, I got an offer for $120 shipped... Thanks guys....

i kno lol

First of all tuning lower is better for daily bumping and can be louder to the ear because the low notes feel loud! And higher tuning is for comps but is less musical.! this is wat I always understood. Anyways I was going to use an adjustable port to tune to 48 hz, but thanks guys keep it comign and i kind of re wrote my question!!!! Hey I am building a box for a dc XL 15 d2 for my 97 blazer, It will be sub up port side, I will be making it with a square port on the bottom rear of the box exiting out of drivers side, with 15" of port in the box and 10" external with the external removeable for SPL comps, and I was thinking 3.75 cubes for daily ground pound, I want loudest possible ti the ear for demos, and tuned to 35 hz, and then when I remove the port I will put some bricks in bring the volume and down and tuning to 48 hz (res freq) and I was thinkg of about 2.5-3 cubes for SPL what do you think? Let me know any help is appreciated, I will only have 2-3k on tap and less to start with til I build up my electrical!!! SO I just want the ultimate ground pounder off of 1500-2k watts and maybe can rebuild when I get my 3k! thanks.!

ne1?

Hello, I have a 2 door blazer and have a 15" DC XL on the way, I hear there best in right around 3.5 cubes. I will have 2-3k on tap. I need help with my system design, I know it will be sub up port to drivers side. I wanted to use a 8" aero but to get a tuning of 35 hz, it would be like 25" long in 3.6 cubes, i would be ok in 4 cubes. Is this to big? The system is for daily ground pound, I want it as loud as possible for demos! I am contacting the port guy to see how long we can go. but anyways, I need your guys help, let me know what you think for volume, tuning, and if I should just change to slot port and use the 8" aero for my comp box! Also let me know what these things will really handle daily, I was thinking 3 cubes would be safe if im in 3.5 cubes but at 4 cubes that sounds a little scary!!! Again I got a 2-dr 97 blazer! One more thing, I always see everyone trying to stay below the window line, is this important for all competing organizations? Again if I end up making 2 boxes It wont matter but dims under window line are (HxWxD) 16x38x28 16" can go to about 22" if I disregard window line. Thanks a lot guys Im really excited I have been researching these babys for SOOO long and finnalt out of a stroke of luck got one that is pretty much to for a great trade! I have been om'in so many ppl I see who have them and have heard BTLs dd 9500's nightshades and HDC3's and they all say the XL stands out in SPL AND SQ the nightshade was very close and better to some, but I was suprised many ppl liked it over the BTL! They said the 9515 could get louder but the SQ was shitty.... For amps I am looking at a Crunch 3k I just discovered those and all the good reviews and bench tests on them, or else an mb quart 2k, IDK if 2k-3k difference will be that large and 2k will take minor electrical upgrades where 3k will take major! Thanks ALL SUGGESTIONS AND INFORMATION APPRECIATED

thats a pic of the lvl 4 vs xl motor

What size box?