MistahVee502

I need the box specs for 2 12" DC level 3s to fit in the trunk of a 1996 Toyota Camry. I measured my trunk and the biggest area all around to fit a box is 45" Wide, 24" Deep, and 17" Tall. i dont expect the box to be that big but if it means better SQ and SPL then im all for it. =) I was thinking of even cutting the box to fit the trunk snug like a mold but i was wondering how it would be possible

Yea...I was gonna do Big 3. Kranny, you suggest i use what gauge wire? It looked like the POS and GRND could be ran as 1/0 gauge but it could just be because im only viewing by picture.

I just mean that the alt is small. Jumping from a RF 201S to the AQ1200D is going to be a BIG difference in current draw. I believe the size of the alt for that year is 80 amps... yes, of course...i understand what you mean...but i have no idea what to do about it...alts are expensive

Its a good car...I have yet to see any dimming at all with my current system...of course its a difference in power but it seems to handle pretty well.

Ok, Because that will save me a little bit of money for some other things. Better to be safe than sorry ill probably do Big 3 at least if i even need that...but ill probably do it anyways

I will be running Two 12" DC Sound Lab Level 3s with a Audique AQ1200D Amplifier running it with 1/0 gauge wiring of course. But...The question is...Will a second battery be essential? Is it something I will need even if i plan on only using the stereo while the car is running? 99% of the time i have my car on even now to play my stereo.

kranny and his llama are correct...no need to give level 3's that much...if you're completely set on that amp i'd honestly get the sa-12's.. my llama is all knowing . but seriously, on an audiopipe 1500 those things were moving an inch. i dont think they'll move any more. edit: if you had to stick with that 2200, upgrade to the level 4's. How much would 2 12" Level 4s cost me if you dont mind me asking pm corona_jeff, CJ18, chode69, dwright27, thorshammer, or WCArusty...one of them will most likely chime in.. Yea...I been talking to Jeff...hes the one selling me the 3s...but idk...i wonder if a AQ1200D would run the 3s clean and hard i got 4 lvl 3's from jeff, and he said that he wouldn't really do much more than 900 rms to each sub...he said that the DD m2a, which he clamped at 2600w iirc, would be plenty for these subs and would get them moving really nicely. So going down to the AQ1200D would run them smoothly? and i would still need all electrical upgrades right?

kranny and his llama are correct...no need to give level 3's that much...if you're completely set on that amp i'd honestly get the sa-12's.. my llama is all knowing . but seriously, on an audiopipe 1500 those things were moving an inch. i dont think they'll move any more. edit: if you had to stick with that 2200, upgrade to the level 4's. How much would 2 12" Level 4s cost me if you dont mind me asking pm corona_jeff, CJ18, chode69, dwright27, thorshammer, or WCArusty...one of them will most likely chime in.. Yea...I been talking to Jeff...hes the one selling me the 3s...but idk...i wonder if a AQ1200D would run the 3s clean and hard

kranny and his llama are correct...no need to give level 3's that much...if you're completely set on that amp i'd honestly get the sa-12's.. my llama is all knowing . but seriously, on an audiopipe 1500 those things were moving an inch. i dont think they'll move any more. edit: if you had to stick with that 2200, upgrade to the level 4's. How much would 2 12" Level 4s cost me if you dont mind me asking

gotcha...i think i will go with 2 12" DC Level 3s with a AudioQue AQ2200D a Kinetik battery for trunk and Knu Konceptz 1/0 Gauge Wiring Kit and will buy Knu Konceptz Big 3 parts as well.

I want to be loud as shit....as much ground poundage as possible...but like i said...i want a dependable system...one that i will not have to fix all the time and buy new shit for to make it work....i would measure my trunk right now but my tape measure broke about a week and a half ago...the tape measure housing split and the tape went EVERYWHERE lol you already made a thread like this. dc, sundown, or aq sdc's sorry for asking...just had a vs. question because the Type Rs looked pretty good...

they cut in and out? that could be from low voltage going to the amp, clipping, or the subsonic filter being set wrong. well i figured it was the amp because when i had both subs hooked up the bass would weaken but when i unhooked one of them that one sub was hitting harder than when they were both hooked up... but i had one of the subs running parellel to the amp and it still cut in and out on REALLY low lows but when i had them wired using 1 of the coils rather than both obviously it didnt cut in and out...

the only reason i explain the sound/feel of the setup im looking for to flex is because its hard to explain it without hearing it...the only other way i can explain it would be for the bass to be enough to take your breath(kinda...more like make you feel the vibration after the music is turned down kinda like your hands after mowing the yard with a pushmower) idk lmao...hard for me to explain

I want to be loud as shit....as much ground poundage as possible...but like i said...i want a dependable system...one that i will not have to fix all the time and buy new shit for to make it work....i would measure my trunk right now but my tape measure broke about a week and a half ago...the tape measure housing split and the tape went EVERYWHERE lol if you want to be a groundpounder, you need well over a thousand dollars in subwoofers and more thousands of dollars to power them. if you want a regular "loud" system, then 2 12's will be fine. and lol at tape measure. and by the way dude, shit wont break unless you abuse it. 99% of problems are the USERS (your) fault. you probably were clipping the absolute hell out of your amplifier and sending way dirty signals to your subwoofers, which overheated, and failed on your part. And i have only have one setup to be acting wrong. i had a amp that was underpowering the subs and when the music threw out lows the subs cut in and out.

I dont come on this forum to get shit talked to...i just want to learn and get the best car audio setup i can get with the help from you guys that do know best...so if your gonna be rude then dont even post a reply...questions are the only way to aquire information to learn about new interesting things.

I want to be loud as shit....as much ground poundage as possible...but like i said...i want a dependable system...one that i will not have to fix all the time and buy new shit for to make it work....i would measure my trunk right now but my tape measure broke about a week and a half ago...the tape measure housing split and the tape went EVERYWHERE lol

1996 toyota camry...i honestly dont know how much trunk space i have

Even thought of goin x2 12 or 15 Kicker L7s...but...idk...im open to suggestions as well...just trying not to spend more than 400 or so for both woofers

Which is the best bang for the buck? x2 Type R 15s or x2 Level 3 12s? Im looking for massive flex with dependable long lasting lifes -Vee Thank You

Im getting money around the 20th Of February and i would like to see if anyone is selling a set of two 12" DC Audio Level 3s. Throw me a price and i could possibly buy them around the 20th.