Ke_Bone_Bone

I should have done my research

that not a noobish question honestly i am curious too, i know what it is but whats the difference between AWD and 4x4

I will try to find the name of it, i saw it on this honda civic that was running 2 motors, one front and one back at a car show last weekend. its like a hydraulic air ram system that gives the performance of coil overs with the smooth and push button raise and lower of air bags. It looks like a air ride bag, but its a metal cylinder. can anyone help me out?

Could you possibly use a bunch of smaller tanks that could hide under the seat? but only go with coil overs if you want performance rather than show. I upgraded the air ride on my dads lexus show car and it rode smoother. but it lost some performance when we took it to the dunes

Oh I AM DYSLEXIC so if there are any writing, grammar, or anything that doesn't make sense in my write ups. POINT IT OUT TO ME SO I CAN FIX IT ASAP

Okay so i am 16 and wanted to get into drifting up in the northwest. last week i sold a jetski i worked 4 summers to save up to buy and got the money to get my new baby. A 89 nissan 240sx, already was 2 tone black top white bottom (spray paint from previous owner) all interior but no AC/ heat. Stereo. or seat belts for passenger side. Next week i am getting MECP certified and i am using this car as my demo car its looks like a terd with what used to be nice rims. Now for the goodies (]Pics will be up once i pick it up from Drift Office in washington) Had it dyno tested, compression and everything, will post results as soon as i pick the car up New red top sr20det custom exhaust *LIFTED suspension (bought stock struts that were not compressed while stored, it sits higher by about 1/2-1/4 inch and has a more aggressive look) new tires strait body (amazed every one at the shop to find no rust, no body damage) JDM windshield *coming soon(has a bronze tint) Racing steering wheel kill switch I WILL TRY TO DO A WRITE UP EVERY DAY OR SO Now for my build up, i have step by step pics and will upload them later today Build ups will have write ups for ------------------ ARM REST 3D GRAPHICS ------------------------ CENTER CONSOL FLARE PROJECT --------------------------- HEAD UNIT RELOCATED TO CEILING ------------------------- FIBERGLASS TRUNK BATTERY BOX ------------------------- GPS CONVERSION (radar detector hidden into gps conversion, thermal cam with car, human, animal detection) _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Arm rest 3d graphics PICS WILL BE UP AS SOON AS I CAN UPLOAD THEM! ---------------- _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________part one: -graphic stencil (Can be used for door inserts, arm rest, head rests, anything you want to give flare to) *IF YOU ARE GOING TO MAKE A REUSABLE STENCIL THEN JUST DRAW THE GRAPHIC ONTO 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" MDF BOARD AND USE A ROUTER TO CUT OUT THE DESIDN BUT REALIZE THIS WILL ONLY WORK on flat surfaces. find a picture online or draw out your own graphic you want on a piece of plain white computer paper or poster board, (if creating a large or hand made graphic, use parts of objets as a guide, it will help later on if you are trying to make a reusable stencil) - Go over the outline of the graphic with a black sharpie - trace the out line of the graphic onto another piece of paper (for larger graphics, cover the poster board with a light color masking tape so you can see the sharpie outline threw the tape, GREEN 3M PAINTING TAPE WORKS BEST BUT IT IS PRICEY) - *PLACE TAPE ALONG ALL 4 SIDES OF THE PAPER* tape the paper with the traced outline onto a table (place cardboard, wood, a flat smooth surface you can cut on) - trace over the outline with a hobby knife (make sure the blade is new and sharp, the sharper the blade the less chance of it ripping. (THIS IS NOW YOUR STENCIL TO TRACE ONTO WOOD FOR CUTTING, PLASTIC FOR 3D GRAPHICS, CARDBOARD OR CLEAR OVERHEAD PROJECTOR SHEETS FOR AIRBRUSH STENCILS ECT) - use a piece of flexible, soft plastic (you can get scrap plastic from recycle, or find a beach towel bag, something that isn't thin as paper, and is still flexible to shape to the curve of the arm rest) and use the stencil you made to trace the graphic onto the plastic *THE WHOLE POINT OF TRACING IT ONTO THE SHEETS OF PAPER AND EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU PUT IT ON PLASTIC IS TO SAVE THE PAPER, I KEEP A BINDER THEN USE THAT PAPER STENCIL LATER ON WHEN I WANT TO USE IT FOR A OUTLINE TO AIRBRUSH THE 3D GRAPHICS YOU JUST MADE. STORE IT SOME WHERE SAFE - store the paper stencil, to better preserve it, wrap it in tape then recut the outline so it has a more stable structure. -cut out the graphic on the plastic by burning it, cutting it, what ever method you want _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Part 2: -Placing the graphic onto the arm rest *You may want to buy a big ROLL of 8 0 grit sand paper from home depo. *you will want a cleaning agent like orange goo or something similar to clean your stencils *wear gloves *buy a gallon or two of bondo depending on the size of your object *buy and use a bondo brand spreading tool -before placing the stencil onto the object you are creating go over the object with a layer of bondo (this will create a higher gloss look in the end rather than that texture look stock dashboards and plastic interior parts have, Since i am trying to achieve a show car quality car, this is a handy tip) -sand down the bondo to a thin layer with 8 0 grit sand paper (Less bond = less weight, i have a custom built motor for drifting and weight is something i want to keep down) * take your time sanding( i spent 19 hours hand sanding a center consul yesterday and i am only 70% done), make sure there are no pits, DO IT BY HAND FOR BEST RESULTS! I have an electric sander, dermal tools, and they do the job quick and change the angle and flow of each object your are sanding down, (when you put all of the interior back together after using electric sanders from belt to orbital you will realize it does not flow from one piece to another the right way and it makes for a low quality look. *Make sure you do not let bondo go over the edges of the panel arm rest, or trim piece you are doing, this will prevent fitting issues later on. Test fit each panel after you sand it, it will show you if you need to make the edges thiner to make the panel flow with the rest of the car. - use the stencil as a guide on the arm rest or panel you are doing, tape it down to keep it from moving. - spread an even layer across the the arm rest, then remove the stencil ASAP *RINSE AND CLEAN THE STENCIL ASAP. SO YOU CAN USE IT AGAIN IF YOU WANT TO FLIP IT UPSIDE DOWN TO DO TWO SIDES OF SOMETHING LIKE TWO OF THE SAME GRAPHIC, one on each door panel - your panel, arm rest or what ever you are doing should now have a graphic that is raised up on your work. - place the stencil on the graphic again and go over it with bondo again, remove, and clean the stencil asap * YOU NEED 2 LAYERS MINIUM OF BONDO TO DO A SIMPLE RAISED GRAPHIC, the 2 layers ensures you can sand down to the first layer if needed to get all of the pits out of the graphic so it is smooth. (this is useful for tear graphics) - this is where you decide if you want a graphic to be raised or textured, for more textured graphics, do 3 to 5 layers of bondo on the graphic. - Sand down with 8 0 grit sand paper to get rid of ALL of the pits, SAND BY HAND FOR BEST RESULTS, sanding by hand will ensure you can create curves, flare, texture. *IF YOU HAVE A RAISED GRAPHIC THAT YOU HAVE SANDED DOWN AND IT STILL HAS PITS, GRAB THE STENCIL AND DO ANOTHER LAYER OF BONDO AND MAKE SURE YOU FILL IN AND GET ALL OF THE PITS then sand it down again - use 80grit sand paper to shape and form the texture, curves, flare, and detail. (THINK OF 8 0 GRIT SAND PAPER AS A SCULPTING AND SHAPING TOOL) - if you want more complex detail use more layers of bondo, curve and shape the graphic with 8 0 grit paper (such as a skull, circle the parts of the skull you want to keep raised and any parts you dont want sanded, cover in masking tape, sand paper wont sand threw masking tape. its a good idea to mask of a a1/2 to 1/16" around the skull, round off the of the skull to make the edges of to make it flow into the panel. place the sand paper on the back of a screw driver and cut it into a circular shape, spin it where you want the eyes, cut the top and bottom off of a pop can then fold it in half, place sand paper from one side to the other so it goes over the folded side, use it to sand in lines and pits such as the teeth, then use your hand with sand paper and sand down the parts of the skull that you want lowered, so other parts are raised. I HAVE MANY TOOLS AND OBJECTS I USE TO SHAPE AND SAND DOWN BONDO TO CREATE TEXTURE, (using objects along with the right angle of pressure as a sanding block can create many angles and very unique looks) I WILL POST PICS OF MY SANDING TOOLS LATER TODAY -after you have the object shaped, take then panel into a room with a light you can dim, you only need to dim it slightly, you should only be dimming the light to the point where you can see the texture and shadows on the wall of the room cast a more obvious shadow, slowly dim the light and look for the shadows casted in pits, the dimming will make it more obvious since you will think you see a pit then when the light hits it at a different brightness or value it ensures you know where they are, - CIRCLE any pits, if you place a dot on the pit with a sharpie then you will never be able to tell if it is gone. you can always always place a small dab of bondo on your finger and dab it onto the pit to fill it in then sand it down -turn the light up and look for what parts of the graphic are highlighted, look at it from different angles and the highlighted parts are you high spots. if you see high spots u dont want, sand them down -after all the sanding its time to smooth it out, use 120 grit, and sand ALL of the parts covered in bondo, graphic and the rest of the panel. IF YOU WANT YOUR PIECE TO BE A HIGH GLOSS PAINT, SAND IT DOWN STARTING WITH 120grit(it may still shape it with 120grit so be careful) AND USE EVERY GRIT YOU CAN GET IN BETWEEN UP TO 2000grit maybe even 2500 grit if you can get it,(you can get the higher grit sand papers at shucks, napa, or MOST AUTOMOTIVE STORES, the higher grit sand papers can NOT be found at Home Depo) -clean the panel with the graphic every time you finish sanding before you move up to a higher grit sand paper. (high grits like 500 something grit and up may need to be cleaned as you sand) -You only need 120 grit but you can go higher if you are going to wrap you graphic (simple graphics get wrapped in vinyl, flames, tares, and level raised shape, complex graphics can be wrapped and it is simple but it is a look for high class custom cars.) -before painting or wrapping the panel, clean every inch of the panel with rubbing alcohol and use q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol to clean the raised graphic to get every piece of it cleaned. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Part 3: painting FOR PAINT - after the prep in part to you want to spray the entire panel with a PRIMER, (FOR SOME PEOPLE IT MAY BE HARD, BUT DO NOT GET TRIGGER HAPPY WITH THE SPRAY CAN!!!!!!) make is THIN, if its not even or if you missed a section, DO NOT GO BACK AND JUST SPRAY THAT SECTION, it will cause drips and a thick coat. - spray the panel from 6 inches back, go strait back and forth. (IF YOU CROSS PATHES; left to right to diagonal spraying across the wet paint it will turn out in a lower quality finish) - Go over the panel or piece with one more layer of primer, let it dry COMPLETELY *MOST PEOPLE DONT WAIT FOR THE RIGHT TIME AND THINK THE PAINT HAS SET AFTER 30 MINUTES* - i wait 4 to 6 hours between primer and base coats -you can do 3 coats of primer if you want PLAN OUT YOUR PAINT COLOR SCHEEM, A LAYERD MASKING PLAN, - Spray a base coat over the entire panel (when choosing your base coat pic a color that will help you out with your graphic in the end (for a skull piece, use a white primer, so you can airbrush shadows and highlights into the piece instead of trying to airbrush or paint the entire graphic a different color) - mask off your piece and paint away - when painting i used 2 coats of clear coat, but on interior panels like this i use a technique called *piano sanding* piano sanding -after spraying a high gloss color, and it has dried, you can use 1000 + grit sand paper, go all the way up to a the highest 2000+ grit paper you can get. (2000 grit is a minium,) -it takes time but you should notice your panel your are sanding will have a higher gloss shine at 1000 grit, and you will notice the shine become reflective at 2000 grit, -once you use the highest grit you have, use a little water on the piece (do not drench the panel) drip water onto a small section, sand it then move onto another small section. - after wet sanding you should be able to look at the panel you have sanded from an angel and it should have the same gloss and reflective property of a grand piano you would see at a concert hall. - it should fell SMOOTHER than glass - if it does not then you need to continue sanding ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TOMORROWS WRITE UP WILL BE OF THE CENTER CONSOL, (flare and molding nav system) THEN THE NEXT WRITE UP WILL BE FOR THE DOOR INSERTS. I WILL HAVE A FIST POPPING OUT OF EACH DOOR WHEN YOU OPEN IT.

I have been fallowing smd forums for a while but i just had to make an account when i saw steve got an is250 is it AWD? took my is250awd to the track and thanks to it being AWD, and the road corse being more turns than straits, i came in third place, beating the is350, bmw m3, ferreri 430 spyder(dude didnt know how to drive) porshe gt3 and gt2, but i dont mind losing the the new camaro and the new mustang.