fuggnore

yeah. this whole build ive been trying to keep clean so if i ever wana sell the car i can put everything stock back in. and so far ive done it. (minus the radio, id have to do some rewireing to put the stock back in)lol. but i dont really mind making a little mess in the trunk cause the trunk liner would go back over everthing if i put it back in. but i shall go get another sheet of 3/4. its not a money issue. its more of finding a way to get it back home. ha i gotta wait till one of my freinds wana do it for me. i like greatstuff though beacuse it holds when you want it to and it will come off when you want it too. and for the deaden...ing part i got this 1/2 green foam sheat. lol do you think i could get away with that? its jsust laying around and i wana use it for something. or should i just go pick up some real deadenor?

i dont know much about hatches, or anything for that matter. but all i know is that everytime i see subs in a hatchback they and the port face towards the glass, so im assuming this is the best setup for them. btw what years your civic?

PHEW! i was worried i was going to have to make a new box or something. and in that case i was going to say fuck it and just do a wall. eer...well try too haha. i got no problem sealing off the trunk from cabin i was already looking into it and its not to hard at all. now i got questions about sealing it off. i was going to use a peice of 1/2 in mfd. i used all my 3/4 and 1'' for the box a while ago. unless you guys recomend useing something thicker but i dont think i need to really worry about flex...or do i? and should i put a sound dedentator on it IE second skin or foam something? and to seal that tiny little gap between the wood and the inside of the trunk what would you recomend? hahah greatstuff or something?

so you agree with sealing off the trunk from the cabin? sorry for so many questions dudes, i just wana kick this problem in the nut sack.

explain? like cancalation as in the sound waves in the box?

well actually if i face the sub backwards i fuck up trunk latches. ive gone through 2 already. and when i put the third one on i turned the box so the sub is faceing me and i havent had any problem. and it dosent sound like my trunk lid is going to fall off. now it just blends in with all the other rattels. and normally when you face direction of the sub a difference way you notice a differnce in loudness. when i switched it i really didnt notice any difference at all. now i can be for certian beacuse i didnt sound lab it or anything. but im my opinion it didnt really make a difference sub faceing foward or backwards except for rattels on the outside. witch i find odd beacuse this is the first time ive had that happen. any other time witch way your faceing the sub makes a big difference.

i was doing some more tests today with test tones and stuff. and here is what i came up with at 34hz its the loudest (doors closed trunk closed windows down) i tried to tune the box to 32hz so im not to off i guess. and even with the trunk open 34 is still the loudest. i put some foam and a board to block the cabin from the trunk I KNOW THIS IS NOT REMOTELY SEALED! SO DONT BE LIKE "YOUR STUPID ITS NOT SEALED" CAUSE I KNOW THAT ALREADY. but even with that little block there is a little of a difference. so i think im going to try and fully seal off the trunk from the cabin and that should fix my problem...i hope its nothing great. but its my first real build i can say.

it gets a little louder. but not as much as when the trunk is just open with doors closed. and im talking about there is a big difference. like when the trunk is closed and i put my hand by the window with the window rolled half way up and i can feel a little air moving. but when i open the trunk i was like damn! i mean it was nothing close to doing a hair trick or something but there was a huge differnce. my mirror on my winsheild went straight up. like in a split second. with the trunk closed it takes a while for the mirror to face up ha.

alright. so i got the sub in today and got it hooked up to my old amp. it hits alright for 500rms. but when i was messing around with it today i noticed that it hits significantly harder, is much louder, and there is alot of air movement when i open my trunk. now the sub is in the backseat. sub and port both faceing foward. now normaly when you open the trunk it gets quieter in the car. anybody got any ideas how i could make it so its better with the trunk closed? or what that has to deal with? cabin space or the cabin responce or somethning? ive been told in a different post to seal off my trunk from the cabin, im in the processes of that now, do you think that would solve my problem? or is there more to this then im aware of (witch im sure there is)

DOWN WITH MURILO!

well i got a set of 6"1/2 in the doors. there is tweeters in the dash. and there are 6x9s in the back. i plan on adding another set of 6x9s in the back along with tweeters in the middle of the car. what would you suggest wattage wise?

well actually i have a cold air intake. so i have alot of room under there where the stock intake box was. and that just so happens to be right next to the batt. location now so i sopose i could put a big ass batt. or two under the hood. i really dont wana put one in my trunk cause then i gotta buy more wire. and run it back there. ha i have it nice and simple now. just one 0 gauge running back there going to a distrubution block. and im going to run 0 gauge for the sub and either a 2 or 4 for the speaker amp. off the block.

yeah i wouldent mind putting a bigger batterie under the hood. its just all the extra ones i dont want ha. what am i looking for when getting one for that. its not like cranking amps or something?...or is it? this is all in a 06 honda civic its got a itty bitty batterie as of now.

haha thanks bro. and i guess ill be running more then 1200 rms. cause thats just the sub. im doing speakers and everything. so add another like 4 or 5 hundred ontop of that. and i got 0 gauge ran already =] im trying to avoid putting more batteries. id rather just put a better alternator. unless thats not how it works. hahah, this is my first bigger system. im upgrading from only 500rms haha. damn, you answered my post before i even posted it haha.

So im planning on getting a better alternator in the near future. im only going to be running 1200 watts rms. and i have the big three done. but i want to do the alternator too. i hate when lights dim n shit. my question is am i going to have to change fuses for my car electrical? like wipers, dash lights and so on, like am i going to start blowing fuses and stuff from putting more then 14v to it?

that sounds about right. i would go with that

i didnt notice it anyware, is this a 12, 10, 15?..er what? nevermind. i seen it in your signature. now i havent herd of the "D4" part of the l7. but if it is the same thing as the others you need 3.0 cubic feet - 6.0 cubic feet if it is a vented box. Or 1.5 cubic feet - 6.0 cubic feet if its a sealed box.

i have no seats bro. sub faceing foward/up. in cab. also i built the port and sub fireing in same direction. i didnt f my self by doing this did i?

the back seats are already out. and i already built the box. ha, and yes i know its a little big. but ive build boxed before in the past and i always use a size someware in the recomended sizes. but ive personally liked how subs sound in a bigger box compaired to a smaller one. and for blocking off the trunk from cab, i am planning on building a wall like thing. but long story short when this is all done you will not beable to see into the trunk from the cab and viseversa. would this be good enough for sealing the cab from trunk or should i put a peice of 3/4" mdf with some sound dedener?

and this is in a ported box. 5.8 cubes with a 15"L7

well what about when your box is were the backseat would be? should i seal off the trunk from the cabin where the sub is located?

ive looked on alot of fourms and all i get is people saying either foward or backward. most people favor backward. and i know it depends on the interior of your car. but i was planning on facing the sub foward with an upward angle. do you think this would be the same as faceing it foward without any angle or would it change the sound possibly louder or softer inside the car?

okay thanks everybody for the input and so quickly. i got another question too. haha, so im mounting the sub box with a 4x4 that is mounted between two pillars on either side of the trunk. i was plannning on bolting the box to that from the back side of the box. i was planning on three bolts. two on either side and one on the middle. would you recomend t nuts again just a bigger size? this box is being mounted in the rear of my car rather then the trunk due to small trunk size. i have removed the rear seat, and have a peice of 1" MDF for a platform. i have pictures if that would help at all?

okay i got that part, thanks. but are those going to get a good seal. or am i going to get air leaks of any sort? do i need to put any sealant on the t nuts once their in? Or would just drilling the holes for the bolts so the bolts are a really tight fit do the job?

Okay, i have a 15'' L7 in a 5.8 cubic foot box. I dont want to mount the subwoofer with screws like you would normaly do. so i figured i would go with bolts since its a little more heavy-duty. but my question is how would i go about sealing the bolts on the inside of the box? or would the pressure of the nut tighting on the outside of the box keep the head of the bolt tight enough on the wood for a seal? or should i put a little sealant on the bolt?