Coleslaw

Lol. She's trying to act all tough at first like it's no big deal. The. The bass hits and she realizes what she got herself into.

Lol. The room is tiny. There isn't exactly anywhere to rearrange it to. I'm just doing the best with what Ive got. Thanks for the advice though I usually just have it in stereo mode listening to music anyway.

I figured I would post this up here and see what you guys think. I was going to do a full build log but I don't like stopping to take pictures when I am building something. Mains: TriTrix T-Line's. Got the parts and design from parts express. Center: Polk Audio CS10. Nothing too fancy. Rears: Infinity 2500's. Old but still sound good, Probably going to replace the drivers eventually. Subwoofer: Dayton Reference HO 15", Custom T-Line tuned to 24 hz Receiver: POS Sony

before I get banned? lol. And I stumbledupon it. I think it was dailygif.com or something like that.

General rules of thumb such as...? And do they need to be separate chambers or can it be one common sealed chamber?

I have been trying to read about bandpass enclosure because I was thinking about building one as an experiment but I can't seem to find much info about them. All I have gathered so far is that the ported part you tune like a normal box but with a frequency in the high 40's/low 50's and that you generally use a ratio of 2:1 or 3:1 of ported volume to sealed volume. What I'm curious about though is how you determine the area of the sealed or ported chambers? For instance, I have two Infinity 860w 8 inch subs which are recomended to be used in .35 cubes sealed or .65 cubes ported, how would I determine how big to make the chambers?

Reasoning? 88 4Runner x2 I doubt I would get much for the cap and it probably wouldn't be worth the time to sell and I'm trying to spend as little as possible. Yea, I think it will be fine but I thought adding the cap might help a little but based on some things I read I wasn't sure. And I'm pretty sure my alt is pretty small. not sure on specs but its in an 88 4Runner so it can't be huge. I have no idea how to charge a cap or really how to hook one up and I was worried about the constant draw from it discharging and recharging. Wasn't sure if that would make it harder on the electrical than its worth.

Alright, before you start saying I shouldn't waste money on capacitors (I agree) please read this. A friend of mine took all his audio stuff out of his car and gave it to me. Among the things that he gave me was a Power Acoustik 25 Farad capacitor. In a couple weeks I plan to do the big 3 and install an AQ1200D and possible continue to run another small amp for the mids and highs (25 amp draw). I have stock electrical except for the big 3 and am wondering if I should go ahead and throw the capacitor in there to help with the 135 amp draw or if it would even be worth the time. If anyone has any opinions on whether I should hook it up or not it would be greatly appreciated. Basically I just want to know if it will make a difference with the electrical or not.

I have a couple Infinity Reference 8's and I love them. Two Infinity 1262w's would be about 120-130 on Amazon. I don't know how they compare to the RE's but I think they are great subs.

I think I'm just gonna stick with the 1 sub and invest in some new mids/highs. Maybe a new box.

Very responsive Shipped fast Packaged well Let me know what was going on on his end Was very helpful Would definitely buy from again.

Do you think I should spend another $200 or so and get another sub and make a new box or just go with the one I have and already have a box for at full power?

Sweet, thanks for the info Hmmm... Idk if it is worth it then for just a temp summer build.

Alright, I have been wondering for a while, on a lot of mono block amps there is two speaker outputs. How does this work? For example, if I plugged a 4 ohm speaker into each one would that present a 2 ohm load to the amp? Also, if I want to use just one speaker, do I just plug it into one or the other? Or connect it in what would be a bridged format on a multi channel amp? Or does it not matter? I know this is probably a dumb question but since I have never used a mono block with 2 outputs I don't understand how it works. Also, off topic, would it be louder to run 1 sub at 1000 rms or 2 at 500 each (same sub either way)?

Definitely not a "normal" woofer, you want something that has a low Fs and is built for bass frequencies. I guess it's a toss up between car and PA subwoofer. There are home audio subwoofers out there too, but it depends on what kind of a room you'll be putting it in. If you have a big room, you're gonna want one with a slightly higher sensitivity rating to cover the open area, car subs are built (AFAIK, i could be wrong ) for tight volume areas in mind. Vice versa for PA subwoofers. Just my two cents, don't kill a guy for trying. Makes sense. I was leaning toward PA type sub because they seem to have low Fs and low qts(good for tlines) and they seem to have higher sensitivity. But I was kinda stuck between that and a normal woofer