Coleslaw

Lol. She's trying to act all tough at first like it's no big deal. The. The bass hits and she realizes what she got herself into.

Lol. The room is tiny. There isn't exactly anywhere to rearrange it to. I'm just doing the best with what Ive got. Thanks for the advice though I usually just have it in stereo mode listening to music anyway.

I figured I would post this up here and see what you guys think. I was going to do a full build log but I don't like stopping to take pictures when I am building something. Mains: TriTrix T-Line's. Got the parts and design from parts express. Center: Polk Audio CS10. Nothing too fancy. Rears: Infinity 2500's. Old but still sound good, Probably going to replace the drivers eventually. Subwoofer: Dayton Reference HO 15", Custom T-Line tuned to 24 hz Receiver: POS Sony

before I get banned? lol. And I stumbledupon it. I think it was dailygif.com or something like that.

General rules of thumb such as...? And do they need to be separate chambers or can it be one common sealed chamber?

I have been trying to read about bandpass enclosure because I was thinking about building one as an experiment but I can't seem to find much info about them. All I have gathered so far is that the ported part you tune like a normal box but with a frequency in the high 40's/low 50's and that you generally use a ratio of 2:1 or 3:1 of ported volume to sealed volume. What I'm curious about though is how you determine the area of the sealed or ported chambers? For instance, I have two Infinity 860w 8 inch subs which are recomended to be used in .35 cubes sealed or .65 cubes ported, how would I determine how big to make the chambers?

Reasoning? 88 4Runner x2 I doubt I would get much for the cap and it probably wouldn't be worth the time to sell and I'm trying to spend as little as possible. Yea, I think it will be fine but I thought adding the cap might help a little but based on some things I read I wasn't sure. And I'm pretty sure my alt is pretty small. not sure on specs but its in an 88 4Runner so it can't be huge. I have no idea how to charge a cap or really how to hook one up and I was worried about the constant draw from it discharging and recharging. Wasn't sure if that would make it harder on the electrical than its worth.

Alright, before you start saying I shouldn't waste money on capacitors (I agree) please read this. A friend of mine took all his audio stuff out of his car and gave it to me. Among the things that he gave me was a Power Acoustik 25 Farad capacitor. In a couple weeks I plan to do the big 3 and install an AQ1200D and possible continue to run another small amp for the mids and highs (25 amp draw). I have stock electrical except for the big 3 and am wondering if I should go ahead and throw the capacitor in there to help with the 135 amp draw or if it would even be worth the time. If anyone has any opinions on whether I should hook it up or not it would be greatly appreciated. Basically I just want to know if it will make a difference with the electrical or not.

I have a couple Infinity Reference 8's and I love them. Two Infinity 1262w's would be about 120-130 on Amazon. I don't know how they compare to the RE's but I think they are great subs.

I think I'm just gonna stick with the 1 sub and invest in some new mids/highs. Maybe a new box.

Very responsive Shipped fast Packaged well Let me know what was going on on his end Was very helpful Would definitely buy from again.

Do you think I should spend another $200 or so and get another sub and make a new box or just go with the one I have and already have a box for at full power?

Sweet, thanks for the info Hmmm... Idk if it is worth it then for just a temp summer build.

Alright, I have been wondering for a while, on a lot of mono block amps there is two speaker outputs. How does this work? For example, if I plugged a 4 ohm speaker into each one would that present a 2 ohm load to the amp? Also, if I want to use just one speaker, do I just plug it into one or the other? Or connect it in what would be a bridged format on a multi channel amp? Or does it not matter? I know this is probably a dumb question but since I have never used a mono block with 2 outputs I don't understand how it works. Also, off topic, would it be louder to run 1 sub at 1000 rms or 2 at 500 each (same sub either way)?

Definitely not a "normal" woofer, you want something that has a low Fs and is built for bass frequencies. I guess it's a toss up between car and PA subwoofer. There are home audio subwoofers out there too, but it depends on what kind of a room you'll be putting it in. If you have a big room, you're gonna want one with a slightly higher sensitivity rating to cover the open area, car subs are built (AFAIK, i could be wrong ) for tight volume areas in mind. Vice versa for PA subwoofers. Just my two cents, don't kill a guy for trying. Makes sense. I was leaning toward PA type sub because they seem to have low Fs and low qts(good for tlines) and they seem to have higher sensitivity. But I was kinda stuck between that and a normal woofer

I want to build a new woofer for my home theater set up but I'm not sure what kind of driver I should use. What would be best for a home theater set up that can also play music loud and low - a PA type subwoofer (Example), a normal type woofer (Example), or a car subwoofer (Example)? I want a 15 and it will be going in a T-Line (yes, its going to be huge). I want something that will play low for music and such and will also sound good for movies and games and such. Thanks. EDIT: I guess it would also be important to mention that my amp puts out 500rms @ 4 ohms and 250 @ 8 ohms

If this is under $100 I would definitely jump on it. Especially since I'm planning on doing an upgrade this summer. For around $60 - $80 I think would be the sweet spot.

Lol, I dont think 6ft^3 would fit so well in my dorm room haha. And I don't think my 2 8's would do so well in 6ft^3 I thought you has 12's for some reason...in that case, do 2.75ft^3 with a full length 4" aeroport for a ~26hz tuning. That would add about $15 to the total cost of the build though and I'm a bit tight on money atm. If you want to run with this design I'd put the subs on top and as far to the right as possible. I think I will probably do that.

Lol, I dont think 6ft^3 would fit so well in my dorm room haha. And I don't think my 2 8's would do so well in 6ft^3

If I did this, how do you attach the PVC to the MDF?Sounds like an idea to consider but I'm not sure how to attach them and would it be a problem as far as strength? Are you referring to that comment? yes. or u could fill the corners with fiberglass instead & then round em out. That is true. I have never used fiberglass though and another reason I wanted to kerf it is so it's not so square since I don't have a router. The curves on the outside of the box break up the squareness a bit

Well here's the new redesign, I would like to stick with the kerfing design if possible because there is less cuts (not including the kerf cuts) so it is simpler to cut and less likely to have one piece a little too big or something. My question with this one is whether or not I should put the subs on top of the box rather than where they are in the picture?

If I did this, how do you attach the PVC to the MDF?Sounds like an idea to consider but I'm not sure how to attach them and would it be a problem as far as strength? Are you referring to that comment?

Some one else said this already but it can be done just as effectively with a circle saw, it's just much easier with a table saw I just checked the numbers and it would take 12 cuts about 1/6 of an inch apart which is about a blade width and a half apart so it could be kinda hard to do. I will prolly redesign the box tomorrow with 3 inch ports and see what it looks like. I think I will at least up the port opening to a 3 inch kerf. If I did this, how do you attach the PVC to the MDF? Sounds like an idea to consider but I'm not sure how to attach them and would it be a problem as far as strength?

Bump. Anyone else have any ideas or suggestions or opinions? I am starting it on Tuesday if nobody answers but some more opinions from someone more experienced than me would be nice.

The basic concept of the curves is pretty simple and I'm pretty confident I can make them. Just wish I had a table saw. Would make it a million times easier.