Jump to content

Coleslaw

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    70

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Coleslaw

  3. My new surround soud system

    in Pro Audio / Home Audio / Home Theatre

    Posted

    I figured I would post this up here and see what you guys think. I was going to do a full build log but I don't like stopping to take pictures when I am building something.

    Mains: TriTrix T-Line's. Got the parts and design from parts express.

    Center: Polk Audio CS10. Nothing too fancy.

    Rears: Infinity 2500's. Old but still sound good, Probably going to replace the drivers eventually.

    Subwoofer: Dayton Reference HO 15", Custom T-Line tuned to 24 hz

    Receiver: POS Sony

  6. Band Pass Question

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    I have been trying to read about bandpass enclosure because I was thinking about building one as an experiment but I can't seem to find much info about them. All I have gathered so far is that the ported part you tune like a normal box but with a frequency in the high 40's/low 50's and that you generally use a ratio of 2:1 or 3:1 of ported volume to sealed volume. What I'm curious about though is how you determine the area of the sealed or ported chambers? For instance, I have two Infinity 860w 8 inch subs which are recomended to be used in .35 cubes sealed or .65 cubes ported, how would I determine how big to make the chambers?

  7. Should I add the Capacitor?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    nooooooooooooooooooo

    Reasoning?

    What car is yours?

    88 4Runner

    sell the capacitor and buy a battery

    sell the capacitor and buy a battery

    x2

    I doubt I would get much for the cap and it probably wouldn't be worth the time to sell and I'm trying to spend as little as possible.

    My stock electrical handled 1.2kw just fine without big 3, depending on your alt size you may be okay.

    Yea, I think it will be fine but I thought adding the cap might help a little but based on some things I read I wasn't sure. And I'm pretty sure my alt is pretty small. not sure on specs but its in an 88 4Runner so it can't be huge.

    the reason people dont like caps as they have no resurve supply like a deep cycle battery does, once they get charged they discharge and so on, there constantly pulling and pushing power,

    one thing i never understood is how they worked with no input and output like a regular cap with ac current, u have a common and then a discharge output, with this u have a pos n and neg, how would it discharge without sending it back the way its drawing power?

    i had a 1cf stinger cap with 4guage power n ground on a mtx 500d and it worked fine, stock electrical with no big 3, full tilt with headlights on and high beams (my honda has 4 bulbs, 2 35-55w blue halogens, and 2 100w white halogens) and my amp wired to 1ohm and its only stable to 2ohm my voltage never dropped from 14.3v

    a cap does work, but it dont have enough resurve to keep discharging like a regular battery does, with a battery u can wang on it and it will still put out amperage while charging itself back up, but with a cap, once its discharged it will have to charge back fully to get back its efficency, this is why people spend big money on high amp hr batteries so when they need the power its there, rather than letting it charge

    like when u buy a cap from a store, it will come with a charge bulb, u hook it up to the neg side of the cap, once the light goes out its charged, and u hook ur wire to it, if u do not do this it will constantly discharge and charge and it can mess up ur battery, i had to get another battery for my geo due to this

    and with a cap u can run ur system with car off, but its not recomended, i would say do big 3, get a good starter battery and run the cap

    i honestly dont see why people hate caps as much as they do, would work good to help take the strain off the alt at big amp peaks, and smooth out the voltage drop, i might hook mine back up just to see what it will do to help me, i got a stinger sp800 but it wont charge over 10.8v, i dunno if its hurting me more than helping

    but i say go ahead and do it, what can it hurt? for free its worth a shot, if not sell it to me for $40 :pardon: and put the money twards a new battery? lol

    good luck tho

    I have no idea how to charge a cap or really how to hook one up and I was worried about the constant draw from it discharging and recharging. Wasn't sure if that would make it harder on the electrical than its worth.

  8. Should I add the Capacitor?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    Alright, before you start saying I shouldn't waste money on capacitors (I agree) please read this. A friend of mine took all his audio stuff out of his car and gave it to me. Among the things that he gave me was a Power Acoustik 25 Farad capacitor. In a couple weeks I plan to do the big 3 and install an AQ1200D and possible continue to run another small amp for the mids and highs (25 amp draw). I have stock electrical except for the big 3 and am wondering if I should go ahead and throw the capacitor in there to help with the 135 amp draw or if it would even be worth the time. If anyone has any opinions on whether I should hook it up or not it would be greatly appreciated. Basically I just want to know if it will make a difference with the electrical or not.

  12. Quick amp question

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    double the cone area is +3dB, double the power is +3dB, or double the cone area and power for +6dB ;)

    in theory of course, it be slightly lower in a car.

    Do you think I should spend another $200 or so and get another sub and make a new box or just go with the one I have and already have a box for at full power?

  13. Quick amp question

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    if I plugged a 4 ohm speaker into each one would that present a 2 ohm load to the amp? Yes - They are to make it easier to wire.

    if I want to use just one speaker, do I just plug it into one or the other? Yes

    Also, off topic, would it be louder to run 1 sub at 1000 rms or 2 at 500 each (same sub either way)? Should be the same or close

    Sweet, thanks for the info

    two subs at half the power should be 3db louder than 1 sub.

    Hmmm... Idk if it is worth it then for just a temp summer build.

  14. Quick amp question

    in Amplifiers

    Posted · Edited by Coleslaw

    Alright, I have been wondering for a while, on a lot of mono block amps there is two speaker outputs. How does this work? For example, if I plugged a 4 ohm speaker into each one would that present a 2 ohm load to the amp? Also, if I want to use just one speaker, do I just plug it into one or the other? Or connect it in what would be a bridged format on a multi channel amp? Or does it not matter? I know this is probably a dumb question but since I have never used a mono block with 2 outputs I don't understand how it works.

    Also, off topic, would it be louder to run 1 sub at 1000 rms or 2 at 500 each (same sub either way)?

  15. What type of woofer for HT?

    in Pro Audio / Home Audio / Home Theatre

    Posted

    I want to build a new woofer for my home theater set up but I'm not sure what kind of driver I should use. What would be best for a home theater set up that can also play music loud and low - a PA type subwoofer (Example), a normal type woofer (Example), or a car subwoofer (Example)? I want a 15 and it will be going in a T-Line (yes, its going to be huge). I want something that will play low for music and such and will also sound good for movies and games and such.

    Thanks.

    EDIT: I guess it would also be important to mention that my amp puts out 500rms @ 4 ohms and 250 @ 8 ohms

    Definitely not a "normal" woofer, you want something that has a low Fs and is built for bass frequencies. I guess it's a toss up between car and PA subwoofer. There are home audio subwoofers out there too, but it depends on what kind of a room you'll be putting it in. If you have a big room, you're gonna want one with a slightly higher sensitivity rating to cover the open area, car subs are built (AFAIK, i could be wrong :peepwall: ) for tight volume areas in mind. Vice versa for PA subwoofers.

    Just my two cents, don't kill a guy for trying. :drink40:

    Makes sense. I was leaning toward PA type sub because they seem to have low Fs and low qts(good for tlines) and they seem to have higher sensitivity. But I was kinda stuck between that and a normal woofer

  16. What type of woofer for HT?

    in Pro Audio / Home Audio / Home Theatre

    Posted · Edited by Coleslaw

    I want to build a new woofer for my home theater set up but I'm not sure what kind of driver I should use. What would be best for a home theater set up that can also play music loud and low - a PA type subwoofer (Example), a normal type woofer (Example), or a car subwoofer (Example)? I want a 15 and it will be going in a T-Line (yes, its going to be huge). I want something that will play low for music and such and will also sound good for movies and games and such.

    Thanks.

    EDIT: I guess it would also be important to mention that my amp puts out 500rms @ 4 ohms and 250 @ 8 ohms

  18. Opinions on New Box?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    If you want an easy way out(:D) try 6ft^3 with a full length 6" aeroport for a 25hz tuning.

    Lol, I dont think 6ft^3 would fit so well in my dorm room haha. And I don't think my 2 8's would do so well in 6ft^3

    I thought you has 12's for some reason...in that case, do 2.75ft^3 with a full length 4" aeroport for a ~26hz tuning.

    That would add about $15 to the total cost of the build though and I'm a bit tight on money atm.

    Well here's the new redesign, I would like to stick with the kerfing design if possible because there is less cuts (not including the kerf cuts) so it is simpler to cut and less likely to have one piece a little too big or something. My question with this one is whether or not I should put the subs on top of the box rather than where they are in the picture?

    33uzmon.jpg

    If you want to run with this design I'd put the subs on top and as far to the right as possible.

    I think I will probably do that.

  20. Opinions on New Box?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by Coleslaw

    I would suggest using pvc cut to make your corners. Kerfing small radius like those will be a bitch.A skillsaw and a straight edge will get you the desired results for a kerf, but a tablesaw is a life saver.

    If I did this, how do you attach the PVC to the MDF?Sounds like an idea to consider but I'm not sure how to attach them and would it be a problem as far as strength?

    fiberglass... :clapping:

    Are you referring to that comment?

    yes. or u could fill the corners with fiberglass instead & then round em out.

    That is true. I have never used fiberglass though and another reason I wanted to kerf it is so it's not so square since I don't have a router. The curves on the outside of the box break up the squareness a bit

  21. Opinions on New Box?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Well here's the new redesign, I would like to stick with the kerfing design if possible because there is less cuts (not including the kerf cuts) so it is simpler to cut and less likely to have one piece a little too big or something. My question with this one is whether or not I should put the subs on top of the box rather than where they are in the picture?

    33uzmon.jpg

  22. Opinions on New Box?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by Coleslaw

    I would suggest using pvc cut to make your corners. Kerfing small radius like those will be a bitch.A skillsaw and a straight edge will get you the desired results for a kerf, but a tablesaw is a life saver.

    If I did this, how do you attach the PVC to the MDF?Sounds like an idea to consider but I'm not sure how to attach them and would it be a problem as far as strength?

    fiberglass... :clapping:

    Are you referring to that comment?

  23. Opinions on New Box?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    if you dont have a table saw how a re you going to cut all those kerf cuts

    Some one else said this already but it can be done just as effectively with a circle saw, it's just much easier with a table saw

    Can you make a kerf with a 2" radius? I've seen 3" but not 2" while using 3/4" MDF. Also, that port opening is too close to the left sub.

    I just checked the numbers and it would take 12 cuts about 1/6 of an inch apart which is about a blade width and a half apart so it could be kinda hard to do. I will prolly redesign the box tomorrow with 3 inch ports and see what it looks like. I think I will at least up the port opening to a 3 inch kerf.

    I would suggest using pvc cut to make your corners. Kerfing small radius like those will be a bitch.

    A skillsaw and a straight edge will get you the desired results for a kerf, but a tablesaw is a life saver.

    If I did this, how do you attach the PVC to the MDF?

    Sounds like an idea to consider but I'm not sure how to attach them and would it be a problem as far as strength?

×
×
  • Create New...