sundownz

Search my screen name on caraudio.com classified section.

I am not planning to have these customizable -- since we do not do these things in house it would involve me leaving the shop, driving somewhere, dropping them off, picking them up, etc. They will be clear powder coated.

Full production run of rings is in Now I just need the other stuff !

Yah, it's the driver card -- these guys encase it in epoxy. It's very rugged... I never had one fail on a v.1 SAE-1200D model regardless of what happened to the amp. Has large discrete parts in it vs. smaller SMD components.

14.4v w/ 80-amp power supplies on board and 4 awg power wire. I didn't measure drop but I'd expect it to be into the mid 12s on the 1 ohm test and mid 11s on the 0.5 ohm test. based on prior testing I've done on my bench.

Internals are actually almost identical... the old board just looks crowded from the black lines on it and the extra raised bars (single sided board needed them). Many of the small parts were also centralized to the one corner (upper left of new board) instead of being spread around the board. The BIG difference is the new board is double sided -- almost all of the problems with the v.1 models that came back related to vibration breaking solder connections. The double sided board has solder all the way through the eyelets and not just on one side -- much more rugged.

I got the sample of my v.2 SAE-1200D in... testing is going quite well. Honestly... I need to change the part number to SAE-1500D on these *laughs* TEST 1: 1 ohm nominal @ 60 Hz 1440 Watts 54.6 V 26.4 A 2.07 ohms ** Over rated power at 1 ohm nominal with 2x rise TEST 2: 1/2 Nominal @ 45 Hz 1750 Watts 49.6 V 35.3 A 1.4 ohms TEST 3: 1/2 Nominal @ 50 Hz 1840 Watts Popped Fuses (too much current draw) Replaced fuses amp is okay -- I don't suggest 1/2 ohm daily but to get power testing somewhere close to 1 ohm actual I wired it that way with a known rise. Some pictures vs. the v.1 SAE-1200D : NEW on the LEFT OLD on the RIGHT

I got the sample of my v.2 SAE-1200D in... testing is going quite well. Honestly... I need to change the part number to SAE-1500D on these *laughs* TEST 1: 1 ohm nominal @ 60 Hz 1440 Watts 54.6 V 26.4 A 2.07 ohms ** Over rated power at 1 ohm nominal with 2x rise TEST 2: 1/2 Nominal @ 45 Hz 1750 Watts 49.6 V 35.3 A 1.4 ohms TEST 3: 1/2 Nominal @ 50 Hz 1840 Watts Popped Fuses (too much current draw) Replaced fuses amp is okay -- I don't suggest 1/2 ohm daily but to get power testing somewhere close to 1 ohm actual I wired it that way with a known rise. Some pictures vs. the v.1 SAE-1200D : NEW on the LEFT OLD on the RIGHT

Thanks Ant ----- jessiew, I had a Z series v.2 prototype at Freak Show -- my score was 154.3 there IIRC. Same box, though ! ----- Boon, Yah, I can run Super Street NW in dB Drag with my Jeep -- this was sealed on the dash. I don't care for street classes... the one battery deal is so silly. ----- liftedranger, I got a new tail light But I don't quite have it sealing up right yet... the metal was bent a bit so I need to get some foam around it too.

Esoteric Audio... I think they went out of business... but Parts Express was still selling them for a while. Only "fancy" RCAs I've ever used that haven't had any weird problems... I've had them for ~3-4 years.

I don't know... have never blown one of these on a burp.

155.1 dB - woohoo This was with a "Monster" prototype woofer -- not a production speaker. Interestingly... with all my tweaks to the Z v.2 prototype it was doing the same numbers per watt up to 2500 watts (I stopped measuring with the Monster at that point). So... I may be able to match this with a full production trim Z v.2 driver. Previous best was 154.9 with an 18v electrical system and two SAZ-3000Ds on the sub... this time I am on 12v but with two SAZ-4500Ds (power is similar). Some more pics of the setup : I haven't played with front to back box positioning since I built the new amp rack (yah, slacking... I know) -- but I'll work on that a bit when I get time and see if I can increase this.

I am going to find a good clear coating and go with that... just to keep the part from tarnishing. The black motor / silver ring / black basket matches our amps like Dr. Johnson brought up.

I still have some. We've sold quite a few... not sure why nobody posts reviews

Good point !

Little read from the AE speakers site about shorting rings : http://www.aespeakers.com/Apollo.php Their Apollo upgrade is essentially the same as the dual shorting rings in the Z v.2 motor (it has another inside the motor as described in the link).

Logo would be awesome... but would add too much cost for me, IMO.

Minimal since we get parts coated thin... the heat-sink effect is not the primary goal of this part anyway, it is a side benefit. It is primarily a shorting ring / spacer.

Having them optional colors would not be cost or time effective... our powder coat place is about 15 miles away. If we had one right here in town like the machine shop I'd do it.

This part is a spacer / shorting ring / heat-sink for the Z v.2 model. These are made right down the street from us here in Troutman, NC at a family owned machine shop. Great guys down there... they also did our aluminum Nightshade v.1 pole plugs. Just got these in... testing so far has not included them but they will be standard on production models. A few pictures : Should I powder coat them or leave them raw aluminum color ?

8x Used SAZ-3500Ds - $750 each 1-year warranty included. Shipped price in continental 48 states. Trade-Ins from Team Sundown members. Condition varies but they are 8-9 / 10 at least.

If you mean Brandon's three 18s -- then yes.

In the 90 lb range.

FYI... many aspects of the design are being implemented into the Nightshade v.2 in a bit smaller motor.

It won't go intro production... turned out to be a big research project A few reasons it won't see production (at least not now): 1) Motor is HEAVY... I am scared to let it out to the general public due to the weight and the fact that most people don't realize or understand that you must brace this motor structure or run a high risk of breaking the frame. Unless I had a custom tooled frame for the weight I would be very reluctant to sell this to the public. 2) I do not yet own a magnetizer to charge these myself and the factory that makes them cannot charge them either. For the prototypes I had to ship them out to a 3rd party in the USA to get charged... very inconvenient.