Thewes

lol

Thanks appreciate it Ill look into that

I am switching from my 04 Escalade back to my 07 Yukon, and before I can murder out the yukon I have to fix everything I broke/attempted to murder out on the Escalade. This means numerous interior pieces, and pretty much just a new set of tail lights. ( passenger, driver, and the one on top). If anyone knows where I can pick up some GM stock OEM pieces then let me know, I definitely would rather not go through the dealership and pay out the ass. Thanks.

Saw the pictures in my last thread and they definitely look beastly, but is the dramatically increased price tag worth it? Are you actually paying for alot more performance than the level 4, or just paying for a 80 lb flashy motor? I am really interested in this product and even discussed it with Rusty, but I am just curious how it differs. From what I understand when motors get that big they loose efficiency. I read it was due to the slugs being stacked up repeatedly and something about parabolic magnetic force escaping and the magnetic flux being capped easily with a single slug (which increases efficiency of the motor by alot). Honestly, I am no speaker builder though, so I have no idea. My main question is, for the money and the big huge motor, is the level 5 really a great sub?

Getting rid of the Escalade so Im going to see if these will look good on the Yukon and if so might still get them by the end of the summer.

Those things aren't light. I'm just gonna go back to the dealership and have them take care of it. A warranty is a warranty.

I only have two 2400's left and those don't fit in my battery bay so Im pretty much screwed.

Where are the level 5 pictures at? I know there have to be a couple out there other than the ones on the dc site.

Yeah that was me

Damn near impossible to make any money off this unless you are positive that you referred like 20 people that are going to click ads too.

Everything is removed, from the EQ to my runs of 0gauge.

I hope its just the battery, I might of shorted it some how and blew some cells if that could be causing these problems. I think it has just enough juice when I turn the key slow to start getting the alternator moving then once that and the engine kicks in everything is fine.

Made a post a while ago about my batter being dead, but it sits at like 10-11 when not run for 24 hours and after some experimenting, I realized that the car will always start, but you just have to turn the key a tad bit, let it chug for a second, then it will kick on. Previously when I first ran into the problem, I would just turn the key all the way and the car would just begin to click and wouldn't start, then I would be forced to have the car jumped and it would work. But now with just turning the key slowly I can get it to start whenever. Does this problem sound familiar to anyone? Its a 2004 Escalade, 50 thousand miles on it, and its just some regular old lead/acid battery. Problems started after I removed my kinetik 1400 upfront and 2400 in the back and placed in the stock battery...

Yeah I have no idea why it happened so bad to my car. People run alot more power in cars of the same make like yukons, tahoes (STEVE), etc, and never run into the problems I have. I think its just the way my ports fired.

Yeah it slaps. I think its like 33 hz right on the dot, which was a loud note in my car. Which by the way is all kinds of fucked up from those 2 15s. I have to replace a AC vent on the roof (fell out and can't find it), replace a dome light that had the wires snap, buy new rear AC controls for up front, and a couple other small annoying things.

Do you mean a music video for it or a video like this

Just ran it through Audacity to see what frequency the song hits at, and no the bass is not clipped. 43 hz in the beginning and once the kick drums start it goes up to 44hz.

Ill sum up my story as quick as I can. So a while back I ordered 2 15'' BLs. Got them, opened them up, looked great, put them back in the box, and let them sleep untill I started my build about 2-3 months later. Well I go to install them and notice as I take the second BL out of the box, that the motor is COMPLETELY cracked in half, so I get in touch with Scott and he takes great care of me, sends me a brand new sub. So I do the install and slam around for about 3 months, untill I decide I want to go bigger and do a full revamp so I take everything out of my car. I can tell which sub is new because the older one's spiders were alot loser since I jammed it while I waited for my second sub replacement. Anyways, after taking a closer look at the older 15, I noticed the magnet was also cracked, but not completely. This got me wondering shit, I guess BOTH subs were damaged in shipping and I only noticed the fully cracked one, because I handled them with care during their time out of the box and when in the box I never played them hard enough to well... split the damn magnet. It performs fine... Its a hairline crack almost all the way around. My question now is... I plan on getting 2 more BL's and reconing the two ones I have no so they have some fresh spiders, but should I be worried about this crack? Ive played it for 3 months straight now and had no problems, but is it just a matter of time before it splits all the way and the coil freezes up? Any help would be awesome. Short version... Bought 2 subs, one was cracked, Scott took care of it and replaced it. Jammed for 3 months, redoing system so I removed everything. Noticed the older sub that I never replaced was also cracked, but not as bad as the first one that I returned. I slammed the one with the smaller crack for 3 months daily. Should I be worried about the cracked magnet?

In my 2004 Escalade there is absolutely no room in the upper left, and the stock battery is in the bottom right. In my 2007 Yukon, the stock battery is in the top left where theres no room in the Escalade, and on top of that there is the same exact battery tray in the bottom right of the Yukon that could fit a Kinetik 2400. Crazy shit.

Whipping around the Yukon untill someone sells me a 1400/1800. Let me know ASAP.

Looking for a kinetik 1800 or 1400 and it would be a plus if you have the reversed terminals model. Please let me know ASAP because this is replacing my battery up front and I pretty much can not drive my car until I get this.

Yeah I guess I will go with birch. Also I noticed on VJ's box the screws almost counter sink themselves.

So I have this piece of MDF sitting in my garage waiting to get cut up for my new build until it hits me. Im here struggling to remove my box for 2 15's with 4 baffles and it makes me realize how heavy MDF is. I've been whipping my car around the past couple days and without the weight of that MDF, I really notice how different it drives... and how much better I do on gas, which is KILLING me.And that box was only 2 15's. My new box is for 4 15's and dare I go MDF, the design involves doubled up 3/4 all around, and triple 3/4 baffle on the front for the plexi glass window... it would weigh atleast 400 pounds. so lets just say I use birch instead, even though its about 14 dollars more a sheet, will it be worth it in the end? Is the weight difference that noticeable, and does it have a different sound than mdf?

Stephen I ran mine at .35 ohms and only problem I encountered were the cheap fuses I used catching fire. Got some decent fuses and never had the problem again.

And when you turn your subs on they are probably going to think "Man this guy did not build our enclosure, lets not play for him"