Sammitch0

I got a quote from mech he can do 270A @ 14.5v for $400 shipped. I'll spend the rest on two XS1200's and a second big 3 and call it a day anyone agree? I guess if I drop below 14.4 thats fine ill just tune my amps to like 1400rms a piece.

Are there any other companies that do 270a alternators for under $550? lol I'm 21 I understand all of this... I'm just not made of money and I NEED electrical my alternators about to go and I dont have an extra $300 to burn heh. I was hoping you guys would have used XS batteries I could buy for like $300 and then spend $400-$450 on an alternator ugh.

It's an AUDIOPIPE 1500.1D but they do rated @ 14.4v @ 1OHM I'll be running 1 OHM per subwoofer 1 amplifier each @ 1500RMS. Jumping froma 260a to a 270a is like $50 it's not really worth the 10a for me you know what I mean? I'm trying to save as much as possible. I don't want to spend more than $450 on the alternator.

OK! ill buy an XS 1200 STARTER, XS 1200 int he rear for the AP1500.1 and a 260xp DC alternator? and hell ill even do a second run of BIG III... if I do this will I be straight @ 14.4v @ 1500RMS? like I want and if I buy a 3rd XS1200 int he future could I run an addition 1500RMS?

I think ill just get a XS1200 and a DC Power 260xp for $600 and just call it a day... if I need more after ill get a second 1200 for the starter. anyone agree?

Ok if people dont KNOW what they're talking about please stay out... I dont need opinion or guesses, I need somenoe that knows what I will need to run 3000RMS @ 14.4v I have $600 right this second to drop on an alternator and ONE better to run 1500RMS this is simple... Im willing to spend upwards of 450$ on an alternator if I have to but I need a decent batter too.

320amp? Well DC and Mechman both told me I only need like 280amp for 4kwrms...? I figure for 3000 I would only need like 240 or 200.

I only need 1 battery for now m8t im running 1500RMS I dont think I need 2 batteries for that. the 3200RMS comes later this summer, I just want to effectivly run 1500RMS right now and then have alternator room to run the rest later on and ill just throw another 2 batteries down I'm thinking 3 XS 1200's (1 for now and my starter) then BIG III and a good 260-280amp alternator from a decent company.

Tax returns are coming I know im going to yield atleast $600 (aint shit I know :-/) but regaurdless it's something, and that something will buy some electrical. I have BIG III ran and a new battery from walmart my alternator is stock in a 1996 Laredo so it's pretty much junk probaby 60 or 90amps. I'm running 1500RMS and I need that to be CLEAN so I will need upgrade suggestions. I want a solid 14.4v @ full tilt @ 1600RMS I will be adding another 1600RMS amplifier this is why I need an alternator. So I need 3200RMS capible alternator and a battery for the 1500RMS amplifier that will hold 14.4v full tilt. I need this within a $600 price range and I have knuconceptz kolossus 0/1 ran for my big III already. Just to verify... Alternator capible of 3200RMS @ 14.4v and a single batter capible of running 1600RMS @ 14.v I would like this at full tilt while driving, not idle of course. but I would love to stay above 13.5v at all times with a 35hz tone.

First off I'd send that amplifier back, you want MONOblocks for subwoofer and multiple channels for door speakers etc. I'd also suggest building a box, but since you're only running this then that might be a waste of time/money depending on how much your prefab will cost. Problem is that subwoofer is Single 4 OHM @ 500RMS and that amplifier doesn't even do 400RMS bridged @ 4OHM. Then again I guess that's all you have for choices. Id just suggest a bigger amplifier that does 500RMS @ 4OHM true power maybe Alpine or AudioPipe or Hifonics?

I'm selling my PC for $400 just the tower: 2GB DDR2 Corsair XMS X2 3800+ AM2 @ 2.6ghz HD3850 256MB @ 700/1000 /w aftermarket Zalman cooler Two Western Digital 160GB SATA drives. Windows 7 64bit Ultimate Upgradable motherboard (to AM2+/Diff Card/2GB more RAM) I'll sell it for $400 I build it, runs great wont play anygame to date maxed out but will play Crysis @ 1440x900 Gamer with 30fps. I'll throw in my Widescreen 19" Samsung LCD for an extra $100 so $500 for my system with Logitech 5.1 Surround Speakers/Mouse/Keyboard.

Im putting 75RMS to 75RMS speakers, now i dont doubt that they wont take 75RMS daily, so ionno... my HPF is 70 on the HU and off on the amp. and I dont have just mids so I dont need crossovers I suppose. and I dont want to spend over $100 shipped. Also I said im going to buy 4 more 6.5's and im gonnna run 8 i mights as well use my 150$ paperweights :-/

I just dont understand how after 4-5 months they already starting to go at rated power doesnt make sense... I think I just want to switch out ill keep the 4ways in and just add pods for another 4 6.5's i just need some suggestions I dont wanna pay more than $100 a pair. Also would crossovers help?

I have 4 Pioneer 75RMS per 4 way 6.5 and I have a kicker KX600.4 and its tuned to do 75RMS to each speaker, only problem is sounds like its starting to blow one of them, it sounds fine but on some songs the mid bass bottoms it out (the gain on the KX is like 1/4th the way up) I have my HU and everything with HPF and LPF so I dont understand? my friend has KS680 door speakers and his stuff WANGS a lot harder, soo can anyone suggest me some speakers that are like $100 a set or less? or maybe tell me why my speaker does this? the front two are fine the rear two are like out thought (these speakers are like 4 months old >.<)

Cone Diameter has nothing to do with tuning and Hz. 18's and 10's can hit the SAME notes depending on the box. I would just suggest a 12 or 15 for massive low hits in a 35hz tuned box.

That wouldn't be parallel thought that'd be Series/Parallel which means Series on the coils and parallel on the subwoofer. This is also what confused me... How do you know when its acceptable to bridge the coils and when its not? cause you could technically bridge ANY DVC woofer but on the12volt.com it shows only curtain combos can be Series/Parallel not just any subwoofer. For instance 2 x 4OHM DVC parallel/parallel is 1ohm but series parallel its 4ohm i dont get that? how do you know when you can do series/parallel Oh I c... when you add another woofer it drops the ohm load in parallel so 1 4ohm DVC is 2 OHM parallel and add another you get 1 OHM... ok so parallel is pretty damn easy, series is where I get confused.

Ok I think I get it the12volt.com made it so damn confusing... Question how does D4 + D4 = 2 OHM if you havling them wouldnt it be 4 OHM? or do you do 4/2 + 4/2 = 4 then divide that by 2 and you get 2? since it's two woofers? If not im confused on that one...

Nothing pisses me off more when I go to install someones woofers and I have to use the12volt.com to find ohms etc. for subwoofer wiring. It's even more of a pain in the ass when Im not internet accessible. Is there a printout chart or a mathmatical was to figure out how many ohms your running and if its series/parallel etc.? I want to be able to do this in my head but the math for EVERY wiring way is different, and theres tons of them: Series & Parallel, Series/Parallel, Parallel/Parallel, Paralell/Series etc, etc, Ive tried to make sense of it all but I can't. Can anyone tell me the math to figure out ohms and how to know if you're supposed to do it in parallel or series? up until now this Is the ONLY thing that has stumped me and one of my biggest problems.

This sounds nothing like dougie I hate that song.

bump

sorry i guess if anyone needs proceeds i can pay for a design i dont care how its done or has to be built i want the best loudest design send me pm's for prices needs to hit lots nice @ 5-5.5net in a jeep suv.

can anyone help me out then?!

No but even then its 3.75 inches away i think 4 inches is far enough.. if worse comes worse ill find a way to add another inch to the depth The widge has to be 45 because I want it sit flush with the back of my jeep.

I dont know what your talking about the port would be 4 1/2 inches from the back thats almost the width of the port so it should be fine right? also I heard port up sub up in an SUV isnt as loud and I like the look of the sub up port back... if anyone can make it better lemme know i dont mind lower freq eigther. I'd just rather keep the design i have i just cant go over 5.5cft