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Team808

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Posts posted by Team808

  1. Drill a hole,sand the paint off,nut and bolt it down .Then go under your hood and run another ground from the battery to the body .The factory ground from the battery to the body is too small .So if you dont up grade it you will basically have a 4ga ground running to a 10ga or smaller ground.

  2. I am soon wanting to move to an 18v system running X amount of XS power D1600s for the bank. I have read several ways of doing it, including the sticky in this section, but it seems there are several ways of doing it. I want to basically know what is the best choice.

    The two options i've found are:

    1.) Run a full 16v battery bank, being charged by a 16v alternator(s). Run X amount of stepdown modules to power the car, cd player, and everything else not made to run above 14.4v.

    2.) Run a dual alternator setup and two seperate voltage systems. A 12v battery in the stock location being charged by a 12v alternator, while the second alternator (16v) charges up the bank in the back.

    Now it seems to me that scenario #1 would be the best choice, seeing as you could in fact run 2 16v alternators to charge your bank better, vs wasting 200+ amperes on the 12v battery that is powering nothing but the car. But I was told that the second option would be your best bet. Why is this? Because it is safer if the step down modules fail/short/whatever?

    For that matter, another question I know several people want the answer to. If I run 18volts to my amps, but a 14.4v (from stepdown modules to the CD player) remote wire, is that going to cause issues? Is there someway to run the remote wire at 18v?

    I have searched several forums including RoE, here, and Caco for a direct answer and they have all kind of pointed to both of these options, different people claiming either/or is better. So simply put, what is the best way to do it?

    Thanks in advance. :D

    I run the #2 option.My stock alt to my trucks 12v components(computer,cd player, ect.... Then i have a alt for the 16v battery bank in the back.Works fine.

  3. If you have 2 speakers on 1 channel ,and it will be a 2 ohm load ,and at 2 ohms your amp will put out 300 watts.Then each speaker will be getting 150 watts .So weather you use 2 channels at 2 ohms or the 4 channels at 4 ohms,you will still get the same amount of power to each speaker. An amp runs cooler and more efficient at 4 ohms than 2 ohms.Also keep this in mind ,if you have a class a/b amp its probably 60% efficient .So at 100 watts you really are only getting 60 ,and thats probably rated at 14.4 volts ,and your car wont stay at that voltage so that will bring down the power of the amp also.Hope this helps .

  4. take a needle, head of a small nail, etc and dab it in a light amount of some super glue...hold it to the end of the stuck piece for about a min, then pull it out...this is how I fix em...but don't use alot or you could clog it up

    Next post will be how to remove a 16 penny nail from my rca input cause I super glued in there. :D

    Try the screw method. That thing cant be stuck in there that bad.

    :rofl:

  5. is it sealed off around the box yet? if not thats the issue

    the inside cracks were done with fiberglass resin and the outside of it was done with construction adhesive...

    beleive me its sealed..

    ive done a box before for 2 15 inch mtx 9500s and it sounded the same as this wall

    after i cut that box smaller resealed it and adjusted the port it pounded...

    only thing is adjust the size of a walled up box is a bit harder..

    No he didnt mean if your box was sealed,he meant is your wall sealed (there are no gaps on the top/bottom/or either side of the wall that will let air get behind the wall).Understand?

  6. i built a ported subwoofer box. on pretty much all designs i see the port wall goes strait back and the cuts to either the right or left.

    on my box i made my portwall just strait back

    if u were to look at my box from the top with the top off my port wall just gos strait back and ends about 5 inches from the bak wall

    i hope this makes sense, anyway am i loosing any sound quality by having it like this?

    How wide is your port ? lets say its 3inches,you will be fine.You dont have to have the port wall bend with the box .The reason why you might see this is due to different tuning .If your port is 8inches wide,then you will have a problem.The end of the port has to be atleast 3inches or more away from the back of the box if your port is 3 inches wide.If your port is 4inches wide then it needs to be atleast 4 inches away.See what i am saying?

  7. you can always go to lowe's, buy the wood and they make cuts for .25$ a cut, and they get near right on everytime, just make sure you dont have someone who doesnt give a fuck about their job do it and they take pride in it where i live. I normally just do mine their because they have decent prices on wood anyways, and it saves me the trouble, all i have to do is cut the circles and glue/screw it together, that's what i'd say you do :good:

    Thats a good idea ,if your not up to it ,you can go on canadian car audio forum ,and find someone near you that could help.

  8. if you're runnin anything under 2.5k rms go ahead and get the xl..they get real loud and sound good too

    Yeah ive been leanin towards the the dc level 4xl. Power wise im not sure yet, would like to run around 3k..would be a daily setup but like to go to usaci and mecca from time to time. ive been hearing about aq hdc3 aswell..but when i call dc audio they have always answered my questions..

    DC audio has great products and customer service ,you will not be disappointed .

  9. Alright I'm looking for an amp(s) that can produce 1500-2500 watts at 1 ohm @ 18v. What can we come up with?

    I know the saz-1500 fits the category. What else.?

    Question.....Why are you looking for such little power at 18v ?Most amps that produce that little power would do it at 12 to 14v .And any amp smaller than that like a 1k@12 or 14v wont even work at 18v .

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