AMI CUSTOMS

Hells yeah^^^^ that is what I am talking about, this sucker is gonna get nasty and has much potential.....LOL

yummy, so did you do a windowless camper shell on this xtreme?

Holy crap, I want pics pics pics pics pics....LOL

And s10 blazer or pickup?

What the hell are you running for mids and highs in a s10? LOL

Not the m4a, the m4, and yes 4k rms. You would need a dual 2 ohm sub at the least, depending on your imp rise, you may need lower in order to get max power out of the amp you select. The m4 is 1 ohm stable. Talk to xs power on here, they can let you know. I wouldn't use optima.

You can feed that sub 4k daily, I would do the dd m4 amp, that would be prefect for that sub and one xs power d3100 at the min, but 2 would be better.

Depends on how loud you want it, I would do an aq2200 or 3500 and the battery requirement would depend on if you are going to music play this or just burp and also which of those two amps. Your question is way to OPEN to answer accurately.

Either sent back to dc or make a new bracket out of mild steel.

AMI CUSTOMS Mayflower, Arkansas 72106 single sensor TL(With NEW selectable peak software), DMM and Current Clamp I charge based on time.

I would rather buy an amp with a clean low voltage rating, that way I know when I add more voltage and clip the signal it will make lots of power. The THD and efficiency also play a big part in this.

Clean vs not clean, meaning, some company's give that rating at a higher distortion rating, meaning the amp is making more power due to the square wave of the signal. Clean power is un distorted and doesn't clip the signal so it is a nice sin wave and NOT a square wave.

What are you doing to the power supply to allow it to run that low? I am assuming that is what you are modding, when you say, "mod the amp", right?

Yeah you are all good. You are going about it the right way.

1400 under hood help more, why not xs power? d3400 I image will fit and is a better battery IMO.

If you work on your car and are going to be upgrading stuff, you should find out where they go before you get the bright idea of changing it around with bigger cable.

There is only three wires that make a hu work, 12V constant(usually yellow), ignition(usually red), and ground(always black). You messed with two of the three and then it quit working, that is where I would start....LOL

Sounds like you grounded a power wire out and then possible blew a fuse or you have a loose connection.

pull it back out and remove the meter and see if the hu comes back out, then post back.

Something else I have learned in my years, you can have the shittest looking ride, and I mean the shittest, but if that thing does 160's and pounds, NO ONE gives a shit what it looks like.

you can't go wrong with AQ, they make way above their rated power and are cheap as shit for the power they make. How many 4k+ amps car you find for under 750 shipped to your door? That is my point. LOL

If you are trying to save money, I am sorry to say it, but you will be like everyone else, that is why you see a shit ton of shit 10's around. You might as well lose the I want to be different dream, you can do that with your career. Then get a vehicle that suits your income. LOL

It will pull that non agm style battery down or vise versa because that are different. They say that on the kinetik site cuz they want to sell batteries and the average consumer doesn't know any better. Replace your starting battery first with the biggest agm style you can fit under there.

Buy a shit 10 and be done with it....LOL

Yes you will be all good, that is how I have my 01 Sierra done. I removed that little 10 gauge alt wire out of the red box, put the nut back on to hold the starter wire in place and just ran 1/0 from the alt to a 300 amp anl fuse and then to the battery. Then upgrade your block to neg ground and your neg to frame ground. Done. And If I am upgrading to 1/0 cable, I NEVER leave the existing cable, there is NO point in doing so, electricity will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance the bigger the cable the less resistive it is, so current won't even travel on that smaller factory wire if you have 1/0 in place of it.