AMI CUSTOMS

I am still trying to figure out why you wouldn't just run d3100's in the back? 4 of those and you would be perfect!!!!

Where did you tap into the speaker wires at with the loc? Did you do it at the head unit or at a speaker?

Do 4 15's here is what my AQ's do in a wall. Lets see some 21's do that. And here is what 4 dc lvl 4 xls do on 4 rf 1500's in a blowtru Arm flex trick http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4tZK5AMHH8&playnext=1&videos=gfFXcjhcDe0&feature=mfu_in_order

Get a piece of wire about 6 inches long and connect it from the remote terminal to the 12 volt power terminal, just touch it to it and the amp will come on if your power and ground are connected correctly!!!

Just run the kicker sub by itself, and you tried to do what you said, depending on how you connected them to the amp, which could be interesting, could cause one of the two subs to blow or the amp to just either, blow/go into protect mode/get very hot. Wire the dual 4 ohm sub in parallel so it is 2 ohm and wire that to the amp.

uuuhhhh work on the 3 15 box??? haha

HAHA what's up Tony? LOL

I hope you mean hear from quite some distance, they would have to be some nasty 15's in order to feel them outside the truck from a distance.

double post....

If it don't turn on, then check ground, if that is good, amp is fucked. Get another amp. Done!!!

Why remove all that to test? Just remove the remote wire from the amp, get a short piece of wire and jump it from the remote turn on the amp to the 12 v+ on the amp, it should turn on, if it does then you know the remote wire is either not connected good or shorted to ground. Simple.

Fiberglass is your friend here....Wood is heavy. You really only need a ample amount of bracing in various areas. There is alot of big time overkill I have seen just in the builds on this site. Oh and thanks, this build exceeds my prelim goals and now reaching for more once my quad alt setup gets here.

Yeah if you have multiple alts, then you only want the closest alt charging the underhood batt that runs the vehicle, and then all the other alts going to the bank and be sure to split up the load on the bank. You don't want to create a bottleneck!!!

Well in your case, it is basically a function of time, batteries only do so much over time, if you are constantly pulling 500+ amps then you need alt to supply for music play. The bank will hold the voltage up for so long but once you pull the reserve off each battery the voltage will sag no matter if you had 10 or 100 batts, the voltage will drop, just take alot longer to happen the more batts you have. Add more alts, not batts. My rule for doing a bank, if I am pulling over 10k watts, put as many batts in there as possible if I am only running one alt, and only play until the total voltage drops below 12.8 then recharge back up. For a few seconds even a minute dropping a battery below 12.5 is not that bad, just not for extended periods.

Reserve capacity then

Depends on use, burp or streetbeat?

What is the demand of a warhorse and what voltage are you wanting to maintain? And are you trying to maintain 3 sec burp or streetbeat?

They don't AH rating are done at low amperage, 1-5 amps pull depending on battery size, so in car audio it means NOTHING!!!!

From XS power Could you explain “amp hours”? People often wonder what the term “amp hours” means when referring to batteries. Many people assume that “AH” (amp hours abbreviated) is a standardized rating for a battery’s ability to discharge current; a true statement. The actual method for de terming the AH rating is more often times not fully understood by the automotive enthusiast. AH capacity is measured in hours. AH is most commonly used to rate deep-cycle type batteries, or any type of battery used for relatively low discharge rates across an extended period of time. Most batteries, including XS Power batteries, are tested in a 20 hour cycle. AH tests can be performed for 10 hour cycles at a higher amp load, but results are not as useful for determining long term capacity. An AH test can easily be conducted by the end user, which is why we at XS Power are so adamant about strict honesty regarding all of our battery ratings. To conduct your own AH test, simply calculate 5% of the AH capacity, and use that number as the amp load. Make sure the battery maintains the standardized 25°C temperature for the duration of the test. The idea is that the battery needs to maintain that load for 20 hours without falling below 10.5 volts. Please note that 16 Volt batteries would be tested to 14 Volts. Here is an example for a 30 AH 12 Volt battery: 5% of 30 (amp hours) = 1.5 amps. A 30 amp hour battery should be able to maintain a 1.5 amp draw for 20 hours at 25°C without falling below 10.5 volts. When a manufacturer is initially determining AH, the calculation is done in reverse. The amp draw is multiplied by the test cycle length in hours as evidenced by the example below. 1.5 amps x 20 hours test = 30 AH The AH rating is most useful for determining how well a deep cycle battery can maintain a relatively low amp load across an extended period of several hours, as the example above illustrates. This information is especially important to customers who plan to use XS Power batteries in Recreational Vehicles (RVs), boats, show vehicles, or any other application vehicle that will need to sustain a low draw for extended periods without being charged.

See my post above, but if you aren't dropping when you are charging at 13.8 ecu controlled, then you probably won't drop at 14.4 if you alt can supply the current demand at 14.4 Volts. So you might just have to set it at 14.4 volts, it is hard to say exactly where it should be, there is some unknowns, like size of cable, how far apart are the batteries, big 3 done, what brand of cable, how far are the batts from the amp, do you have strong grounds? All that changes voltage....LOL

Bring it up to 14.7 - 14.8 and see what your drop is?

Bottom line constant high charging past 15 volts is not good ever on a 12 volt agm. People will say oh I do it, but there is alot of variables to consider that are not the same as your setup. Temperature makes a huge difference in what you can charge batteries at just to name one. It is your choice, but I wouldn't do it until you understand it more and realize what is going on with the battery when the voltage gets that high.

Are you trying to get your voltage up for daily or burps? Cuz just running it at 14.9 is better then 15.0, because it is the voltage per cell. You have to remember you have 6 cells in most AGM batteries.

Yeah, me and XS just figured, well it happens, sent it back and hopefully it was just a bad battery, which is my thoughts.

Are your agm's spiral cell batts like the optima's or sealed flooded like XS power/kinetik?