Bass4Lyfe

i used to drive my father's car and put a small system in there - paid to have a shop do it. now that i have MY own car i'm determined to do it myself. i've literally done tens of hours of research on the net and it's almost time to put all this research into action ... sorry let me clarify. money IS an issue i'm 16 and make 10 dollars / hour! but been saving for ages and am determined to put the best stuff there is in my car ... but it sounds like either way i should run new wires either me or the shop ... i wonder if the dealer would have records of what wires were used ..

yeah, good point. I'ts not the money I'm worried about but the running of the wires I'm not sure if I'd be able to do it correctly and neatly. thanks for your input though I'll keep that in mind and probably end up running new wires if I can't find those damn specs on the factory wiring! because if they're like 18-20 gauge or larger i'd be set as i am thanks alot man for the help

yeah, tha'ts what i thought. well let me give you more information ... i originaly was going to run my component sets off of an external amp - but because i'm getting a like 1,000 dollar head unit (without add ons like bluetooth, etc .. .) it has a high power amp in it - 50 w x 4 channels @ 4 ohms ... it's the alpine IDA-D105 or something like that. I WAS going to get the P400-4, 400 watt amp figuring 100 watts x 4 channels is good ... but it turns out it only gives 50 out at 4 ohms so i figured why not NOT spend more $$$ on a higher wattage amp and see how the after-market head unit sounds ... right? my component sets are the 6.5 inch 2x woofer 2x 1 inch tweeter 2x crossover by RF and the 3-way 6x9s by RF .. I wanna run all RF Speakers and the Alpine head unit so what do we all think about wiring? is it worth it to replace it? i just really want to know what gauge the factory wiring is because if its 18 or even 20 i should be okay .. 22 would be bad ..

i know it's usually a good idea ... but with only 50 watts to each speaker (this is NOT talking about subs yet .. just asking about speaker wires) wanted to see if i had to run new wires

well, i want to see if i have to upgrade the factory wiring to accomodate the extra watts that'll be going to the speakers. Any idea where I can find the exact info? 14-20 is a pretty good range. .. but at least it gives me a ballpark!

I'm almost ready to start ordering stuff for my car ... one last question ... how do I know what gauge the factory wiring is on my car? I've looked EVERYWHERE online and couldn't find it ... thanks in advance and sorry for the multiple help topics

first off welcome to SMD!!! and that looks SICK i'm just beginning to read the full of it but so far looks awesome u got some good stuff bro keep it up!

that truck is BADASS and clean as fuck .... like above sry to post just cuz its sick .., bumb 4 a reasonable price and a sick truck

okay easy i'm really new to this .. so 4 channel amp got it. thanks for your help man!

I'm confused as to what you're telling me. Are you saying buy a four channel amp and power the 2 6x9 speakers and 2 mid range woofers off of it, WITHOUT powering the 2 tweets off that? so the 2 tweets will just be run off the head unit?

Scratch that i'll just get a 4 channel instead of a 2 channel and power all four? what about the 2 tweets? thanks

thanks alot guys for the input ... so now i have A. (1) Deck B. (2) Tweeters C. (2) 6.5” Components D. (2) 6” x 9” Coaxial Speakers, 3-Way E. (1) Rear Speakers Amplifier F. (1) 10” Subwoofer G. (1) 10” Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure H. (1) Subwoofer Amplifier A. (1) Deck = Alpine IVA-D105 http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/p...?model=IVA-D105 B. (2) Tweeters = Part of a package Rockford Fosgate T162S http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/pr...S&p_status= C. (2) 6.5” Components = Part of a package Rockford Fosgate T162S http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/pr...S&p_status= D. (2) 6” x 9” Coaxial Speakers, 3-Way = Rockford Fosgate T1693C http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/pr...S&p_status= E. (1) Rear Speakers Amplifier = Rockford Fosgate P200-2 http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/pr...S&p_status= F. (1) 10” Subwoofer = Giving me a M/H amp on the REAR SPEAKERS BUT NOT THE FRONT ONES what do you all think about that? I'm thinking the rear ones require mroe RMS

So in less than a month here I'll be starting (finally) on the audio system for my new car ... I'm not that great with car audio to begin with and stuff so maybe somebody can help me figure out if this is all going to work Headunit - Alpine IVA-D105 Speakers - 2 x 6.5 inch components in orginal door locations RF T162S 2 x tweeters (one inch??) in stock tweeter locations near side mirrors (anyone know if these'll fit in a 98 camry w/ upgraded JBL audio system?) again, comes w/ RF T162S 2 x 6x9 speakers on rear factory locations in rear deck RF T1693C Subwoofer - 10 inch JL Audio powered off of ... ? (sealed enclosure) That's the basis for the system .. I want a balanced SQL system that's not real flashy but goes loud and sounds good doing it. With that H/U I don't think I'll need a M/H amp what do you think? Thanks for all feedback and realize I'm very new to everything EDIT: What's a good SQ Subwoofer?

sorry man i just edited it cuz the pics didnt come out so bumped it for the pics ... this is an expensive old piece of video equipment .. if anyone knows more about it let me know because i'm gunna b honesty i don't i know its worth alot tho! haha

anyoneeee

Still in original styrofoam surrounds, retails for $4,200 (Or did, it's discontinued now) Price is OBO (1,000) Excellent condition. Retail ... http://www.expandore.com/product/sony/Proa...m/DHR1000NP.htm ~Matthew

I don't know you very well man, but i really hope you get better life throws crazy shit @ u somtimes but i know u'll be strong and heal man .. all the best

I did ... it's alot better! You probably didn't replace the strut MOUNTS which is basically a bushing that moves when you steer ... those are the things known to rattle try replacing those if you hear noise when steering @ slow speeds or noises when going over bumps or ditches

In any case I got it done for 700 so I'm not complaining. I was originally quoted 5-600 by a different auto shop, but that was before they checked the specific parts. I guess for my car it's more expensive (the parts) which I believe because both shops told me that

I didn't want anything flashy or aftermarket ... the reason for replacement was my strut mounts (bushings) were making a weird noise when going over bumps - this is common - so I'll be replacing rear struts with OEM replacements, too. The only aftermarket thing on my car visible from the outside will be tinted windows:)

you think? Front Struts / Mounts Parts / Labor I realize it seems high but the parts are expensive ... check it for a 98 Toyota Camry I think the whole job lists for 1000 (I know the shop owner so got it for 700)

Just got my car back today after getting new front struts and strut mounts - usually about a $1000 dollar job on my can in specific but I know the shop owner so got it for $700 including alignment. Rides much, much better and no annoying clunk noise every bump ... next step (when I save up again) is to replace rear struts / mounts and get a new timing belt then I'll be set!

Wonder when it'll be done ...

MEADE we get a week off school in like 2 weeks ... let me come up there and see this thing!!!! it'd be much appreciated i love your work as everyone else ... shoot me a PM if you can I shot u one a week ago but i realize ur busy good work bro seriously this is the fucking best caddy in teh world hands down those m & hs will be SCREAMIN

Congrat's!!!!! My first job .. (I'm 16 and on my 2cd) was at a fruit/ veggie stand .. real local .. .started at i think 6.75, working Sundays while football and frehsman/ sophomore year were going on .. i'm now a junior and working every day gotta stay suited with that cash!! good job broo