BassJunkie

"The IP.Chat room limit has been reached. You will not be able to join the chat room until some users first leave."

Thanks for the play by play jk looking good

Reading > me

This is untrue. Depends on the vehicle really. GM computers work fine up to about 16.8. I have two friends who have ran 14v systems in gm vehicles without separate charging systems and have had zero issues. I've also tested my malibu at high voltage, ecm didn't fuss until i hit 17v.

Might have to be friends with terry to see it.

Thats a bunch of amperage! Good thing you're taking advantage of all those outputs

I want some. Dont have any use for it except to try to break it but i still want some lol

That was a sick video Probably not, it drove onto the trailer. Probably antifreeze, there is a red type.

Only read the first few responses and didn't even check to see if the vid was up yet but here's my conclusion on the subject. Yes, a dedicated ground wire from front to rear would be more efficient than chassis grounding especially when running large amounts of power. Particularly in my case where I have a unibody car that doesn't necessarily have a frame. What little frame that is there in the rear is held together mostly by some type of construction adhesive and spot welds, I would suspect that current passing through these welds would be a big bottle neck. Not so much with "real" vehicles that have a solid chunk of steel running from front to rear (the frame). In a perfect world if I had an actual frame I would use both the frame and atleast one dedicated run for negative. First reason being that a wire designed for an electrical load is usually made of copper/cca which is a better conductor than steel. Second reason would be increasing temperature increases resistance. Metal is a great thermal conductor and with the frame having a heat producing engine attached to it and an exhaust running beside it heating it up i would think a rubber insulated wire would stand a better chance of not having increased resistance due to heat. In for the results

Kaspersky, thats what I use and what I recommend to all my customers. Staples has Kaspersky Internet Security on sale this week for $11 with a $11 mail in rebate so its free. Winning.

SPL lab is as close as it gets to a termlab. It uses the same exact motorola sensor as the termlab in nearly replica casing. Never have seen it more than a tenth off from termlabs at events while we're doing parking lot testing (have seen it perform from 130 to 156db). I'm only speaking on behalf of the bluetooth and lcd meter screens. If you just want to test and get louder, get an spl lab, if you want to get serious about competing and get lots of practice in, get a termlab due to its superior programming for different event setups.

Personally wouldn't want a pole vent that close to the box. Mounting depth is from the back side of the basket to the bottom of the magnet, so you also have to account for the inch or so mounting ring, rubber gasket, and the surround. Hope this helps

Thats pretty nifty, good stuff.

How many cubes is it? You may have to make do with sealed with such a small place to build.