SnowDrifter

No dice. It looks like asking for that is against their forum rules, but not ours. If you renew the monthly fee, could you please send me a pm? Ya I might next month.....also check out http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/forum/75-game-rips-saves/ There are a few people currently modding money on there Thanks. I found a saved game that I like, is there a way to change the console ID and file details so it matches my original profile? Or do I need to just upload a saved game to it, and kindly ask somebody to change it for me?

No dice. It looks like asking for that is against their forum rules, but not ours. If you renew the monthly fee, could you please send me a pm?

I don't really play online, so it is a non issue. I got my saved game, and I can get it open to edit in Modio. Only thing is: I don't know where to change what. If you have time, I would love a turorial please. Did you extract you save using USB Xtaf Xplorer??? Also Modio doesnt have a mod tool for Forza 3. Only Horizon on XboxMB.com has the Forza tool, I would mod it for you but my month that I payed for has expired.... Yes, I did. Thanks anyway =( Is there anyone else who would be willing to mod it for me? I am 16, no credt card, and my parents won't let me get the program. I would be grateful if anyone could do this for me. Can you tell me the point of this? Why even play the game, honestly? Because I enjoy tweaking cars and messing with their settings rather than racing against opponents. It's all preference =P

I don't really play online, so it is a non issue. I got my saved game, and I can get it open to edit in Modio. Only thing is: I don't know where to change what. If you have time, I would love a turorial please. Did you extract you save using USB Xtaf Xplorer??? Also Modio doesnt have a mod tool for Forza 3. Only Horizon on XboxMB.com has the Forza tool, I would mod it for you but my month that I payed for has expired.... Yes, I did. Thanks anyway =( Is there anyone else who would be willing to mod it for me? I am 16, no credt card, and my parents won't let me get the program. I would be grateful if anyone could do this for me.

I don't really play online, so it is a non issue. I got my saved game, and I can get it open to edit in Modio. Only thing is: I don't know where to change what. If you have time, I would love a turorial please.

What is a good xbox 360 controller emulator / recorder? I have forza 3 for the xbox 360. I basically just enjoy dinking around with the cars in it, tuning them, etc. I found the money cheat, and it works - but I was wondering if there is anything that will let me record keystrokes, button presses, etc from the controller so I don't have to keep entering the cheat over and over and over and over. I tried searching google, but I was wondering if anyone of you knows of anything. I don't even care if it needs a usb-usb cable for my computer, and the program is on my computer. I just want something.

^^this ^^^ This could find some cheap only think the 96's came with Sticks Also don't know your price range, pontiac G8 are a possibility not sure about the trunk space though, i know GTO are non existent. maybe a camaro(new/old) or firebird

^^this The impala is fwd / auto The caprice is rwd / auto I would be more willing to give up an maual trans for a rwd car. How much effort is it to build a box inside the trunk of a mustang? Assemble everything with screws, cut holes, etc... Then take it apart, apply glue, and screw, all inside the trunk?

Sorry for leaving it out *facepalm* Budget is <6k for car (other $$$ set aside for audio)

I would like to put either 2 15s(preferred) or 2 12s in the back of a car... Criteria is basically: Used, stick shift, rwd, seats 4+, and has trunk space. Turbo would be great, but is fine either way. I know that loud music =/= 0-60 performance. But being able to step on the gas and have a car start flying puts just as big of a smile on my face as does rear view mirror breaking amounts of bass. Why not have the best of both worlds? Any suggestions?

Bump?

Great! Is there anything similar that is manual and still rwd with a good trunk?

Or heck... What's a good small-midsize pickup that seats at least 4? If a rwd car isn't possible, how about a pickup with a blowthrough and a locking bed cover? At this point, I am just looking for something that is rwd / 4x4, manual, and something with a lockable trunk that no one can see in to take my subs to be.

Does anybody know of any that are rwd?

I want to upload one of the songs that I slowed... I but I don't know what a good website to use is =( Suggestions?

Ill be looking =) I'm fine on a design, thanks though

Will this be a bandpass then? Because that would probably be the best idea if they will be shut in the trunk by themselves. Is this 350 watts of dedicated midbass? Such as from 70-250hz? No, and yes. In order

In order: Either one. Port through hole would be preferred. If I can't get a car where the armrest folds down, I will port the box normally and fold the seat down. As for headlights: HID led headlights? And yes. 1kw for mids and highs. Including about 350w midbass

How about the one below?

How about the nissan maxima? By the way, I found one on CL Link Let me know what you think And another one that I am more inclined to pick than the one above because it is a manual transmission http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ctd/2093953990.html

As much as I would like to do that, it needs to seat 4, while having trunk space as I carpool to school allot. I am looking for a car that can do this and that I can bump in. As for rear seats, I was looking for a trunk pass-through, like the one seen below(it can be smaller). Does the grand am have something like that? I plan on porting it into the cabin via a square port.

It HAS to be a car, like a sedan or a coupe. And needs to have a separate trunk, not like a small hatchback like the subaru outbacks are. I don't want anybody seeing my subs and wanting to jack them. I can lock a trunk, and fold up the rear seat so it basically looks stock. As for power,I plan on running about 2kw to the subs, and 1kw to the mids and highs. This way, I should get minimal voltage drop at idle, and none at higher rpms, and it still leaves some extra power for anything else I should want to put on the car like HIDs and such. Besides, any level of headlight dimming just tweaks my OCD side so no end, so I would rater have too many alts than too little. Then that way I can keep the most trunk space by having either fewer or smaller batteries.

I am looking for a car with GOBS of trunk space (like a ford Taurus or more) It also has to have a fold down center console, and preferably with a pre existing hole into the trunk I plan on make a box with a square port going through the hole, into the cab Tuning will be at 31hz, and will most likely hold 2 12s. It is also a first car, so the cheaper the better. And the car being manual is highest priority. A car that can handle a dual alternator bracket would be best since I can wire 2 electrical systems into the car so the lights won't dim. I was just going to hook up 2 mechman alts: One dedicated to the sub batteries, and one for the oem electrical along with the mids and highs. Price range would preferably by below 4k, but I can go a bit over if there is good reason. Beyond that, it's a bit high for a first car. And rwd / awd would be greatly preferred over front wheel drive. (Mods, if this is the wrong forum, feel free. It is general audio, and the car IS based around speakers, so I figured it can go here)

So just basically replace the existing wires with bigger ones and make sure the connections are secure? What is the "chassis to engine" all about? I understand the first 2. I scraped the paint away with a screw driver and a knife. So it's more than just sanded, it should be raw (is this better or worse? They just simply put 2 short screws into the body of the car (beneath the seats, metal was the same color as the silver on the outside of the car, I assume this is the body and not the frame) I have the remote, RCA, and power wires ran down the drivers side panel...so this seems likely. There is a small hole on the passenger side but I have no idea how to get a wire from the batter into it. Is there somewhere I can look up this kind of thing for my vehicle? If I disconnect the RCA cables from the amp, and it still flexes when I hit the brakes, would that eliminate the possibility of it being the head unit? For the chassis to engine, it is just that. Sand (not scrape, scraping has the possibility of not removing a fine film of anything that sanding does) a part of the frame, and just undo a bolt from the engine. Attach the wire, reinstall the bolts and you are good to go. The chassis to engine ground just acts as a ground to the alternator. As for the last one, I would say that it does eliminate the head unit.

How do I make a good ground? Get some 1/0 or 2/0 wire, solder some terminals to it, and then do the 'big 3' 1) Battery negative to chassis 2) Alternator to battery positive 3) Chassis to engine