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Everything posted by SnowDrifter

  1. A B pillar is right behind the front seats. You'd definitionally lose your rear seats. Well... Unless you put seats in the box hah C pillar would be what you're after. Not really sure how to help with dimensions? You're going to need to get out there with a tape measure
  2. Does this work for ya? http://www.oldversion.com/windows/google-sketchup-8-0-16846
  3. Couldn't have said it better myself, Kyle! brand v. brand isn't allowed here. If you have a question about a product stack from a single manufacturer, we can help there. But the demographic of people who have used both specific models you're asking about in a controlled enough environment that could give an actual answer is.... Small. It's brand loyalty and 'I used this so it's fine.' Nothing of substance. Tbh, the install itself has such a huge bearing on how things sound, that chasing minute differences is an exercise in futility. And I mean little things - is your interior hard plastic or leather // angle of tweeters // listening position // suv or sedan // what your floor mats are made of // etc etc.
  4. Customer service that either doesn't read what was sent, or fails to address questions / concerns.
  5. The whole 'battery delete' thing isn't indicating to remove the battery, just to avoid mixing chemistries. There are some other reasons, but they don't apply to your rig. With your desired setup, there are 2 advantages here: 1. It's in the trunk. Away from the hood. Away from the heat of the engine. 2. LTO is a kickass chemistry. So.... The usual advice for deleting the under-hood battery is geared much more around conventional battery installs, where running NMC/LFP batteries under the hood would well exceed safe operating temps for those chemistries. LTO doesn't mind it. And you're in the trunk. So honestly, if it fits, you can just toss an LTO battery in the stock location. Barring that, you can see about finding a 'dummy battery' - an empty battery case with terminals, serving as a placeholder. Other considerations: - It would be ideal to convert your alternator to external regulation, or find some other means to maintain a constant charge voltage that doesn't have hot-cold fluctuation. Granted, LTO is much less sensitive to this than other chemistries. But you still don't want to over-charge them. Or under-charge them. - Quick glance at the given specs for the batteries you posted looks like it's in a 6s config. LTO cells are fully charged at ~2.8v. Which means you'd want your alternator set to about 16v. Charging in the ~14v range at stock voltage would mean that you have basically no battery capacity. If, however, you got a 5s battery, that would be fully charged at ~13.5v, and charging higher would be over-charging. Above 3v per cell would be over-charged (15v in a 5s config), causing accelerated wear. And above 3.2v per cell would cause rapid and immediate degradation of the unit (16v in a 5s config). Though, of note, LTO cells don't have a catastrophic failure mode as would other chemistries. So it'll just quietly stop working as opposed to turning into a flamethrower.
  6. Yeah I reckon left is left, right is right You can always put it on low volume and play with knobs to verify
  7. You should get an externally regulated alt for a lithium bank, regardless of charge voltage. Lithiums don't do bulk-float charge. It's CC/CV. i.e. you might want to charge at 14.4v under all conditions.
  8. I'd think you could use some aluminum rod-stock, drill out the center, and mount the seat with longer bolts, no? Just.... Be very careful when you do this. Use as large stock as you can fit. Use good bolts. Just be mindful that the seat anchors are ultimately what hold it still in the event of a crash. You definitely don't want those breaking! Or maybe even tap the hole and use a stud over a bolt.
  9. Crossover point is defined as -3db Which corresponds to a voltage change of 1/√2 So what you do is turn the crossovers off / down / up / etc. Make them not filter anything Play a 500hz sine wave at some arbitrary volume with the speakers disconnected, and measure acV (10v for example)on your amp's output. Write that number down, divide it by √2, then there's your -3db point (7.1v for example) Now play 500hz again, at the same volume, after setting your crossover. If the voltage is higher than the number you just calculated, the HP is set <500hz. If the voltage is lower than calculated, then the HP is >500hz. If everything matches up, then you're set where intended. Note that not all multimeters to higher frequency stuff, so YMMV. 500hz is *usually* in spec, but you're pushing the limits there. I usually use this method to set low pass filters on subs / mid-bass drivers. in the 50-120hz range
  10. Oh yep. Current meter! Seeing those more and more on vehicles. tl;dr it lets the computer control alternator voltage to smartly charge the battery. Hell... I have one on my '05. If you add any wiring on, you have to make sure any frame-battery ground passes through this sensor. Otherwise it'll act all sorts of goofy as you discovered. Good to know that the default fail-behavior is constant voltage an no CEL.
  11. Yinglong (lto) is probably going to be the longest lived / most user friendly. High charge/discharge capacity and cycle life. And they aren't temperature sensitive. This will come at the cost of energy density though You will, however, want to include a balancing circuit in there. Make sure all the cells are the same voltage and won't drift over time. Edit: I believe this chemistry can also be found out of some Honda hybrids / PHEVs. Pull the pack for parts. Should be able to get ~$300/kwh Edit 2: oh and you'll want to convert the alternator to external regulation. Li-X cells rely, universally on a CC-CV charge profile over the bulk-float charge that lead/acid batteries use. So a cold-hot voltage shift would reallllly not be all too usable
  12. whooops broke the frame on this one New frame time This thing is like the ship of Theseus. As of now, the original parts from the donor bike are: handle bars, stem, pedals, chain. New frame time. With some hilarious branding
  13. I don't know if this is still the case, but when I used rustoleum years ago - it had a serious issue with drying. Anything I painted took weeks to fully cure such that it wouldn't indent from a finger nail. And it was *only* with rustoleum.
  14. Take a multi meter and probe between + and + or - and -. I bet they're internally paralleled to give more installation options As to the resistance: It's the impedance that's rated at 8 ohms. Not resistance, which is what we measure with a multi meter. The difference being: Resistance measured with DC, and impedance is AC. Now I have 2 thoughts spring into mind on this: 1. The manufacturer expects inductive behaviors of the moving coil/magnet system to reflect closer to an 8 ohm impedance, despite a 5.4 ohm resistance. You'll see this on the car stereo side too. Dual "1 ohm" coils can read around 0.7. 2. The presence of the crossover is affecting the DC resistance of the system as it's intended to function on an AC system.
  15. If anyone can tell me where this little rubber flappy bit goes, I will paypal you $5 Removed the RR quarter panel to get access to the rear HVAC and it was just chilling there on the floor. There is no where obvious that it goes. This has become a personal affront.
  16. I know ya said you checked it with a multi meter, but could we get some hard numbers? The measurements I want are: - DC voltage at the set-screws when measured across + and - - DC voltage at the set-screws when measured across turn-on and -
  17. An isolator is suggested if you're going to be play with the engine off for XYZ reason. As Hermetic said, hooking up to an external charger while doing this is ideal, but I understand if situations don't allow. You can get some pretty high output power supplies too. I have zero experience nor recommendation for this product, but spec wise, something like this would be what you'd want. https://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM4-100A-Converter-Battery/dp/B01ER3LH5W Battery-wise: I don't mean to sound pedantic, but AGM batteries are lead-acid. There are 3 main general constructions, with 3 subsets: Flooded, AGM, and Gel. With the subsets being starting, mixed used, and deep-discharge. Flooded - most common battery. Pretty much the one you'll get if you walk into a store and go 'hey gimme a battery.' This has the lead plates immersed in a liquid electrolyte. These batteries often(though not always) have removable caps for adding electrolytes, and also must be mounted upright due to a spill hazard. - Pros: --- Cheap --- Readily available --- Somewhat more tolerant to over-charging or bad float voltages as you can top of the electrolyte with distilled water - Cons: --- Plate coatings can break off, essentially removing itself from the battery and reducing capacity --- Not tolerant to vibration --- Spill hazard --- Can freeze at very low temperatures and burst the casing / damage internally AGM - this takes the electrolyte from a flooded battery and puts it into a fiberglass sponge instead. Optima are probably the most common day-to-day example you'll see of this construction. - Pros: --- Better low temperature resistance - sponges aren't saturated, therefore a freeze has room for expansion --- Lower spill hazard (though not zero) --- Vibration resistant as the glass mats help secure the internal coatings in place --- Suited to high current draw situations - Cons: --- Less tolerant to over-charging as they typically don't have a means of servicing the electrolyte. I've done it before, but that really isn't the use case --- More expensive Gel - Uses silica to turn the electrolyte into a paste / jelly - Pros: --- Zero spill hazard under any condition. You typically see these in mobility scooters and whatnot. --- Stable for deep discharge use, potentially longer lifespan than other constructions for this purpose - Cons: --- Not tolerant to over-charging or high current use. At all. Subconstructions: - Starting: more, thinner plates to decrease internal resistance. Great current output, though less tolerant to deep discharge use as the plates will flake their coatings off more easily - Deep discharge: thicker, sturdier plates designed to handle the chemical stress of being drained from 100 to 0 and back again. Higher internal resistance, will incur more voltage drop under load. - Mixed use: in-between of these two construction types. Now for your isolator and light dimming: There are 2 main types of isolators. Active (solenoid) and passive (diode) A solenoid based isolator is basically a giant relay/switch that connects the contacts together when you turn the key on. This will offer the least resistance / voltage drop in the system. A diode based isolator uses a pair of high current diodes to prevent back-flow between 2 sets of batteries. Diodes will incur a 0.7v drop across them, along with any heat that will produce. 200 amps at 0.7v is 140 watts of heat that would need to be dealt with. Along with other concerns with respect to alternator control - 14v at the alternator will only be 13.3 at the battery. If your lights are dimming, that's a result of equipment being able to draw very sharp bursts of current that take you from alternator voltage ~14v, to battery voltage ~<13v. In either scenario, an isolator won't help you with the engine running. If the car is off, then it will, as your vehicles electrical system will be effectively separated from the draw. If you want to fix this, you have 2, maybe 4* options: 1*. Install a large capacitor as close to your starting battery as possible to smooth the voltage fluctuations. It'll still happen, just less noticeable 2. Run dual alternators. Stock alternator handles the vehicle's electrical. Second alternator handles your audio gear. You'd be running 2 discrete electrical systems in your vehicle. 3. Replace various bulbs with some sort of regulated unit - anything that has it's own power supply. Headlights for example could be retrofitted to HID or LED and there would be no dimming. Interior bulbs might take some researching, if such a thing even exists. Most are just 'dumb' units. You'd want to look for something that is explicitly non-dimmable 4*. Modify the wiring in your vehicle. Find which circuit handles interior lighting, and install a dc-dc buck regulator on that. Set the output to 11v or something lower than you'd drop voltage to, and let it compensate. tl;dr: - Generally speaking, you don't want to use an isolator unless you have an explicit need for one. Any isolator will add resistance and failure points to your circuit. - You should replace your starting battery with an AGM. Mixing battery constructions is a nono as AGM and Flooded will have different resting/float voltages, at ~13 and ~12.6 respectively. The flooded unit will incur a parasitic drain against your AGM when the vehicle is off.
  18. satin / matte is also much easier on the eyes on a sunny day. I'd lay down some vinyl. And put some trim pieces along any corners / seams to make sure it doesn't lift up from the wubbadub action
  19. 6 net would be about perfect for a pair of 12s. 5k would be fairly easy. 8k would be workable from a thermal standpoint, begins to be difficult to manage mechanical movement against that much cone area. Some subs that would handle 8k between the pair: (this is a non-inclusive list, there are more out there. Just brands I've had experience with) - Crossfire XT3 - Crossfire XS v1/v2 (no longer in production). I actually miss these. Had a pair of 12s I'd run on an 8k and never was able to get them to stinky. The things were little monsters. Same with the XSv2 18s. 8kw for 20 minutes at a time was never an issue for a pair. - Sundown NS / Z series. The old team 15 could take my 8k into clipping, free air. - Fi Team - DC level 5 - old v1 tool 5k in bursts. 3k all day. While I've not used them, B2 is highly spoken of I can't speak for others, but if you ask Sundown or Crossfire realllllyyyyy nicely, they'll give you custom wound 0.25/0.35/0.5 ohm coils. It's been my experience you get a bit better heat dissipation / motor force out of ultra low resistance coils. I think stepping to 8s or 10s would be a difficult proposition here for this power level, as once you go smaller than 12s (or even 15s depending on design), you start to make sacrifices on spider size / voice coil diameter. More subs isn't always better
  20. LOL that's a fair concern Honestly I think we've all been trained to look at voltage for our needs. Good voltage - no problem. Low voltage - problem. Which chemistry are you looking at? li-ion comes in a couple different flavors
  21. It's interesting, but I think realistically, it offers nothing to our hobby. Current draw requirements are known. Current supply capacity is known. Wiring gauge is chosen accordingly. Everything's fused accordingly. The ultimate measure of the electrical system's performance is going to be voltage. Being able to measure instantaneous current draw won't offer anything of use. 'Yep I'm drawing 300 amps, voltage is still good' That could be useful for diagnostics and testing, but I don't reckon it would give you anything in day-to-day
  22. EVs still have a 12v side. Headlights, power outlets, windows, etc etc. 12v amplifiers will still work. I've heard that the Tesla DC-DC stepdowns are rated for somewhere in the 2-3kW range. So, for most users, not much of a difference there. For SPL, however? I'd anticipate shifting to amplifiers that don't rely on a step-up process to shift from 12v to XYZ internal rail voltage. Taramps comes to mind. Their larger units accept nearly 400vdc. I think we have a number of years before this happens though. And if/when it does, I'd anticipate it would be bordering a 'professionals only' hookup on account of several hundred volts of DC power coming from a system that can supply a couple hundred kW of power under normal operation. Very, very dangerous.
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