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Everything posted by SnowDrifter

  1. What dimensions do you have to work with?
  2. Well Time to check voltage at the alt while you're hammering on it. And if needed, output. See if we can't narrow down what's going on. I have my guesses.... But I'm a believer in objective evidence
  3. 1. What's your rear bank grounded to? 2. I want to know what it looks like at the alt 3. 6s = 6 in series. LTO cells are 2.8v at full charge. So 6*2.8 = 16.8v at full charge 4. Good deal. Though of note, plasti dip doesn't make great weather proofing. Tar actually works quite well if you can get a hold of some!
  4. 0.5v drop front to rear while idling? As in, under no load? That's a pretty concerning amount tbh Things I would look at: 1. Inspect all connections. Take then apart, put them back together. Any ring terminals you have on - grab some pliers and pull on them as hard as you can. If they pop loose, they were junk anyway and should be redone. 2. Go through your big 3. Are you grounded to the body or the frame? 3. Do you have access to a clamp meter? I'd want to verify what sort of current the alt is putting out. 4. When you say you drop to the 11s, where is this voltage measured from? bank? amp? Alternator? I'd love to know what the voltage is as both bank and alternator during this time. 5. Your charge voltage is goofy for your bank config. A 6s LTO bank should be charging closer to 16.5-16.8v. You can drop it to 5s and charge at 13.5-14v too.
  5. I buy lugs with 1/4" holes and just drill them out to whatever size I need https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drill-driver-bits/step-drill-bits/3-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-91616.html
  6. Make a new thread here and we can get ya sorted https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/11-subwoofers-enclosures/?do=add
  7. What are you looking to gain by doing this? What's your current charge voltage?
  8. Externally regulated alt - no swings between hot and cold Balancer for the cells Appropriate charge voltage for your configuration If those are the LMO cells I'm thinking of, you'll want to make sure they stay cool as well. Different chemistry than the yinglongs. Honestly... My 2 cents is to keep the yinglongs. Car audio is like, the perfect use case for those LTO cells
  9. Short answer: no Long answer: max number is kinda the wrong metric to be measuring this at. You should be looking at max output level before distortion, then setting the gain on the rest of your equipment based on that. When that's all dialed in, it'll be the same whether it distorts at 15 or 59. Only difference being the granularity you'll have in the volume control.
  10. What are ya building?
  11. Depends if the head unit has a LPF on the sub output If not, you can make it work. But it might get goofy when tuning the head unit. Sub level would affect your mids. EQ settings might only apply to one of the RCA outs. Ideally, get a different head unit that better suits your needs? I'm not sure what your financial situation is, but that unit looks to be a pretty entry level one from ~4 years ago. Should be able to pick up a unit with 4 channel+sub preouts for under 150. Maybe ideally, one with 4v preouts too. Barring that, there's nothing inherently wrong with a splitter. Though if the output voltage is weak, you might have more difficulty setting gains - e.g. amp gain is up all the way and it's still not where it needs to be.
  12. Honestly I hate those things. MDF doesn't lend itself well to inserts of any sort. If you want threads, the best way to do it would be to laser out some rings from sheet steel, drill and tap those, bolt that to the back side of your baffle, then secure the driver to that. Barring that, the screws I've had the best luck with are some spax #8 multi material construction screws.
  13. There's a goldilocks zone. Too little port area will result in audible chuffing, loss in output, can cause unloading due to turbulent airflow and loss of backpressure. Too much can complicate box design and also result in unloading - particularly below the tuning frequency. There's also port shape, which will have an effect on how much port area you need - an 8" round port will NOT be the same as a 2x10" slot port with the same area. How much port velocity you can have without chuffing and turbulence is a function of how wide the port is along the smallest axis - boundary layer behavior. I can't seem to find it again, but a while ago, I read some info discussing this subject. Will post back if it pops up. The very loose rule of thumb is 12-16" of port area per cuft of box displacement. More realistically, it's a function of tuning frequency and power to the driver. Just.... Don't read too far into that. The port resonances in winISD given are based on the speed of sound (think like a transmission line box). Unless you're playing close to ~150hz with your sub, don't worry about that one. The other bit with that program - it calculates on an open area. Like, box in the middle of a field, not in your car - so whatever response profile it gives needs to be taken with a grain of salt.
  14. 1 - Looks good there. 2 - Heltech one is just fine! 3 - Either/or. I wouldn't over think it. Even if you don't charge them, 80ah isn't exactly a great effort for a 400a alt to juice up. Assuming full load on the alt, and 0-100 SOC, that's what.... 12 minutes? Realistically less since they aren't shipped at 0% SOC and there's going to be resistance in the wires + pack. Wouldn't want to do that with a huge bank that's hundreds of amp-hours. But I wouldn't be stressing about this one.
  15. Density only helps you if you're out of space to fit more. If that's not a worry, then I wouldn't sweat it. Reminders: - Get a cell balancer - makes sure all the individual cells stay at an equal state of charge. - Don't mix and match chemistries (or even sub chemistries). Delete your under hood battery. Granted LTO is way less sensitive to this. But still not ideal. - Convert your alternator to external regulation or otherwise make sure it's constant voltage. No hot/cold charge voltage. LTO is less sensitive to this because of the sheer cycle count and durability. But you still don't want to overcharge when cold or lose out on capacity when hot. Generally speaking, LTO is a wonderfully forgiving chemistry. Overcharging only reduces capacity(damages cells) - very low fire risk. Same with too much heat. So this stuff is less about safety and more about actually getting the capacity expected. 80ah of battery only holds at the appropriate state of charge. Charging low really sacrifices capacity. e.g. 6 cells in series. LTO is ~95% charged at 2.6v per cell, with full charge at 2.8v per cell. So if you're at 2.6v per cell, that's 15.6v for the whole battery. Nearly 100% charge - that's good. If, however, you're charging at 14.6v, that's 2.43v per cell, which is ~80% charge - not great, not terrible. 14v? Now you're down to about 60% charge on the pack. So that 80ah of capacity you paid for is only offering 48ah under these conditions. I think XS power is even more conservative with these measurements on their units
  16. Looks good to me. LTO is a pretty good chemistry for car audio. If you need higher density, Toshiba SCiB cells are a good alternative, though pricier and harder to get. In either scenario, be mindful of where you purchase them from. There are a LOT of fakes and rebranded B / C stock floating around.
  17. Yup this is the way. All sources, signal processors, equalizers, etc etc get set to 0db. The only item that gets set with overlap is the amplifier - the last link in the chain. The goal is to ensure a clean signal all the way through to the amp. If not, distortion / clipping is additive and you can end up with serious signal quality issues at the end of it. e.g. you set -5db on the head unit. Then you set -5db again on a signal processor/preamp. Then you set -5db again on your amplifier. Well now you have a -15db overlap which is going to be prime for sounding like junk and taking out your drivers.
  18. Chief, if that's where you at with box design and build knowledge - I'd strongly recommend against going with a wall. Play around with smaller stuff, get your feet under you, then play around with the big stuff. I think coming into this trying to big out of the gate is going to set you up for a lot of frustration, lost time, and lost money.
  19. A B pillar is right behind the front seats. You'd definitionally lose your rear seats. Well... Unless you put seats in the box hah C pillar would be what you're after. Not really sure how to help with dimensions? You're going to need to get out there with a tape measure
  20. Does this work for ya? http://www.oldversion.com/windows/google-sketchup-8-0-16846
  21. Couldn't have said it better myself, Kyle! brand v. brand isn't allowed here. If you have a question about a product stack from a single manufacturer, we can help there. But the demographic of people who have used both specific models you're asking about in a controlled enough environment that could give an actual answer is.... Small. It's brand loyalty and 'I used this so it's fine.' Nothing of substance. Tbh, the install itself has such a huge bearing on how things sound, that chasing minute differences is an exercise in futility. And I mean little things - is your interior hard plastic or leather // angle of tweeters // listening position // suv or sedan // what your floor mats are made of // etc etc.
  22. Customer service that either doesn't read what was sent, or fails to address questions / concerns.
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