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Everything posted by SnowDrifter

  1. That's kick ass dude!! On a scale of 1 to pucker, how was it tapping into the HV battery? Does the vehicle's controller throw a fit from the unaccounted power draw? How about the other general logistics? I imagine it's difficult to find wiring/relays/meters/etc rated for that sort of voltage
  2. Good lord Dude... That's like.... Double what I get. And I'm bottlenecked by my 5950x. Hot damn dude
  3. Go ahead and make a new thread so we can better assist you This one's graduating high school https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/11-subwoofers-enclosures/?do=add
  4. Confirm unopened? If so, those things were used, abused, and put away wet before they ever made it to your doorstep. Yikes.
  5. LTOs won't light off if you over charge them. But you'll turn them into paper weights in a matter of weeks/months. Leaving them in there in a 6s config won't harm them.... But at a fraction of usable capacity... The added bulk, weight, and complexity of wiring becomes a difficult sell
  6. If I pull from XS power's LTO chart, charging at 14.4v puts your LTO bank at 25% capacity I really don't see a way to get both of these to play nice with eachother. If you really want to get appropriate usability out of your chemistries, I think you might have some decisions to make
  7. Right on Honestly, bluetooth monitoring is fine. Good keeping an eye on it. However, I do have some concerns about mixing chemistries. Lithium batteries have some pretty wildly different voltage ranges depending on said chemistry Full charge voltages are as follows: - LTO: ~2.8v - LFP(headway): 3.65v - NMC/NCA/LMO: 4.20v My concern with the different configs is that one chemistry might be starved for energy and not reaching full charge - under-utilization. Or, worse, over-charging and risking degradation / fire risk (depending on the chemistry). My other concern is what the alternator charge/temp profile is. Lithium cells are charged CC/CV - charge up to a given voltage and hold it there indefinitely. This differs from lead/acid chemistries which introduce a float charge as the final step, where voltage is held around 13-13.5v after the battery stops accepting current. Stock alternators are designed to either passively, or actively (controlled via car's computer) honor an appropriate charge profile for lead-acid batteries. That's why your voltage is high when the car is cold, then drops when hot. However, this isn't a great approach for lithium as you risk either over-charging when cold, or only utilizing a fraction of the capacity when hot. A good approach here would be to look into external regulation for the alternator - a separate voltage controller for the output that maintains roughly the same voltage both hot and cold. See: Transpo 911-02R. On the topic of chemistries: Honestly, LTO is like... The gold standard for car audio. It excels at high load, high cycles, broad temperature swings, and tends to fail gracefully rather than present a fire risk. That said, they aren't the most energy dense with respect to volume or weight, nor are they the best value per dollar when comparing capacity-per-cost. That said, it's my opinion that if you are looking to expand your bank, look into more LTO rather than introducing other chemistries w/ different voltage requirements to it.
  8. I'm sorry man I don't mean to be rude, but I'm really having trouble following what you're saying. Would you mind re-typing / re-formatting so it's easier to follow? I want to help ya, but I'm not the best reader
  9. Capacitors start at 0v. Most battery chargers are 'smart' and don't energize until they see a turn-on voltage. Better ones still can detect between 6v and 12v batteries. Better ones still can reject the charge if a cell in the battery is bad. I'm curious if the unique charge profile of capacitors was confusing your charger and causing it to abort. Location-wise, they should go close to your load - near your amplifiers. Though.... I am a little curious about the battery mish-mash you have going on. Mind sharing details about it? How's your alternator set up?
  10. What do you mean shutting down chargers? What's the exact model you have? Or pics? What I would do is this: - If they're in a bank, disassemble them to individual capacitors - Use/make a "test light" and connect each capacitor to it, one at a time, to drain them to 0.0v. Can use a brake-light bulb and some alligator clips - Once they're all drained, assemble them to your bank. - Take that same test light, and use that to charge the bank to ~5v - Measure the voltage across each capacitor. No need to disassemble the bank. But they should all be the same voltage. If so, keep charging. If not, then there's some tolerance / bad units in there that needs to be addressed - Keep charging to >10v. Once there, then you can hook up your battery charger to it. Or leave it until it's >12v and safely integrate it into your vehicle's electrical Note: do NOT try and hook up an un-charged super capacitor bank to your vehicle. Powering a dead cap bank is like shorting out your wiring. Huge inrush current, lots of sparks, probably going to blow fuses.
  11. That 5 gig has me feeling some type of way..... That's internet faster than some SSDs
  12. Merry Christmas!

    1. Hotdog


      Merry Christmas


  13. Explanation and rambling below. tl;dr, speaker outputs are high voltage, amp casing is ground. Treat it accordingly. If everything still works, I doubt there's any long standing damage to either device. A bit of heat shrink isn't a bad idea, or even a fully insulated connector. Will tag @TonyD'Amore so he can see this. Full bridge, half bridge, class D, AB, etc are all the same in this regard The rails on the amp are energized, and the amp casing is, electrically, a ground. Full bridge / half bridge within this context only refers to if the voltage modulation (signal) happens on one terminal, or both. But regardless, they're both energized. They need to be. Having one terminal at "0v" and the other terminal at any other voltage would just be like wiring a battery to your speaker - DC offset. negative/positive doesn't really exist here as we normally think about negative and positive.... It's just to keep phase consistent, so just bear that in mind when I talk about this. Imagine both pos and neg are charged to 40v. How do you move the driver forward? Positive needs to increase to >40v, so that the ΔV is positive. So, if you play a signal that has an amplitude of 20v, your positive would need to be 60v, and your negative would remain 40v. ΔV = 60v-40v=20v. Then on the other half of the sine wave, where the driver needs to move backwards, positive would be reduced to 20v, so ΔV = 20v-40v=-20v. Whether this is done through one of the output terminals, or both, doesn't matter for the sake of this context. The point I'm trying to make is that regardless of the amplifier design, your speaker terminals should be treated as an energized, high voltage source. Hell, the large 12kw+ amplifiers put out more voltage than you'd get at a wall socket. They become a genuine electrical hazard if you start reaching around and fiddling with stuff wile the system is on.
  14. Projector lights are a different kind of housing technology If a normal headlight puts the bulb in a reflector like a flashlight to guide the light where it needs to go. A projector uses a lens, not unlike a movie projector, to guide the light They generally have a pretty sharp 'cutoff' where the light is, and is not Installation for these involves disassembling the headlight housing with a heat gun / oven, securing the projector unit inside, then reassembling it with some butyl adhesive to seal it back up. To my knowledge, these are only compatible with HID bulbs. Regarding the blue color: That's entirely dependent on what you purchase. Bulbs come in different color temperatures, which affect the color of the light output 3000k - piss yellow 3800k - looks like normal incandescent 4000k - white 4300k - 'crystal' white. Like the sort of white you get off your computer screen, and my personal favorite 5000k - bluish white, really lights up reflectors and animal eyes 6000k - notably blue. Performs markedly worse in the rain and doesn't cut through wet roads well (imo) higher - why
  15. This. Anything else about equipment is largely irrelevant. Alts won't stop the millisecond level voltage dips and spikes. nor will a bank of batteries Need led / hids, 2 charging systems, or a voltage regulator/driver for the headlights Just.... If you go the hid/led route, at a minimum, get bulbs that will let you adjust the focal point so you don't have squirrel finders. Or better yet, convert the things to projectors from the retrofit source or something (there are others out there, those are just the only ones that pop into my head).
  16. Asking what the best speakers are is like asking what the best flavor of cake is It's both highly subjective, and depends on the main course. A triple chocolate ice cream cake may not pair well a tomato bisque. Likewise, you should be finding something that sounds good to you. With the added complexity of install greatly changing how things sound. This is a good thing - you have a LOT of influence over the sound of your drivers by doing things like deadening doors, on/off axis response, crossover frequencies, and equalization. How to shop: - Figure out what you need from them. Mids only? Component set? All in one? - What your power handling requirements are - Budget - Size constraints Once you know all of those, shop from a brand you like. Some reasons are local availability, warranty, customer support, keeping a common brand in a build, general part quality, etc etc.
  17. To verify: With the ground cable disconnected, the ground terminal on your amplifier reads 7v when 12v is supplied, then returns to 0v once the amp is grounded, at which point it works as normal?
  18. Can replicate on Chrome v107 and Edge v107. Issue not present in Firefox. Trigger seems to be reloading the page when the browser not in a maximized window. Does so intermittently. Occurs on all themes. Validated in a fresh VM.
  19. Had WAY too close of a call with a pedestrian In hindsight, I should have picked up on her sudden sprint was an intent to cross earlier than I did. Missed it because there wasn't the over the shoulder check / usual "I'm going to cross" body language + sign was clear the road, not cross the road. Taking it as a learning opportunity that pedestrians are strange and unpredictable creatures and budget driving habits accordingly in the future. Now we both have stories to come home and tell. I'm glad nothing happened. Cause that was all of 3 feet / half a second way from turning an uh-oh into an oh-no. Stay safe out there. Look both ways when walking, look for people when driving. When in doubt, give way.
  20. ^^ good advice Wire doesn't degrade unless something causes it to. CCA is a fair bit more sensitive to this on account of galvanic corrosion behavior + aluminum/s propensity to form oxide layers in air. Old aluminum home wiring needs grease in the connections for that reason. OFC is more robust in this regard. Tinned OFC, even more so. But even still - your connections should be sealed. Good terminations are gas-tight and impermeable. Either soldered, or crimped with closed-ended lugs, and covered with adhesive lined heat shrink. Normal 'decorative' heat shrink has no place under the hood IMO. If you really need to, toss some (high temp) hot glue in the connection before you put heat shrink over it - that accomplishes the same thing with respect to sealing. Aside from that.... Just inspect stuff periodically. Keep your wires off of sharp objects. Any rub-points should be bolstered with some loom to prevent frictional wear.
  21. Anyways here's my roughly quarterly dashcam compilation Not much in the way of shenanigans. Though...I guess that's good? The Subaru at the end chapped my ass a bit. Driver was going 24 in a 35 with a conga line of cars behind them. But get shitty with me when all I want to do is go around and continue my day
  22. Loose connection explains the heat Depending on how hot it got, you might have to work it back and forth / twist it to get the thing out. Once removed, inspect the terminal. You might have to wrap some sand paper around a pencil eraser and clean it up. tbh... You don't need 0ga for this amp. That wasn't the cause of failure here. I don't think you'd gain much by going that route. Use good 4ga ofc, preferably tinned. Put the set screws down nice and snug. Check your connections periodically. You should be going over them daily after a new install for 2-3 times. Then once again at some sort of fixed interval. Every 6mo, every oil change, etc. Pick something that works for you and make sure everything's tight, clean, and corrosion free.
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