Jump to content

SnowDrifter

Super Moderator
  • Posts

    14577
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    130

SnowDrifter last won the day on August 3

SnowDrifter had the most liked content!

2 Followers

About SnowDrifter

18+  All Access!
Forum Veteran
  • Birthday 05/20/1994

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Washington

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

SnowDrifter's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • First Post Rare

Recent Badges

9.2k

Reputation

  1. What dimensions do you have to work with?
  2. Well Time to check voltage at the alt while you're hammering on it. And if needed, output. See if we can't narrow down what's going on. I have my guesses.... But I'm a believer in objective evidence
  3. 1. What's your rear bank grounded to? 2. I want to know what it looks like at the alt 3. 6s = 6 in series. LTO cells are 2.8v at full charge. So 6*2.8 = 16.8v at full charge 4. Good deal. Though of note, plasti dip doesn't make great weather proofing. Tar actually works quite well if you can get a hold of some!
  4. 0.5v drop front to rear while idling? As in, under no load? That's a pretty concerning amount tbh Things I would look at: 1. Inspect all connections. Take then apart, put them back together. Any ring terminals you have on - grab some pliers and pull on them as hard as you can. If they pop loose, they were junk anyway and should be redone. 2. Go through your big 3. Are you grounded to the body or the frame? 3. Do you have access to a clamp meter? I'd want to verify what sort of current the alt is putting out. 4. When you say you drop to the 11s, where is this voltage measured from? bank? amp? Alternator? I'd love to know what the voltage is as both bank and alternator during this time. 5. Your charge voltage is goofy for your bank config. A 6s LTO bank should be charging closer to 16.5-16.8v. You can drop it to 5s and charge at 13.5-14v too.
  5. I buy lugs with 1/4" holes and just drill them out to whatever size I need https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drill-driver-bits/step-drill-bits/3-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-91616.html
  6. Make a new thread here and we can get ya sorted https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/11-subwoofers-enclosures/?do=add
  7. What are you looking to gain by doing this? What's your current charge voltage?
  8. Externally regulated alt - no swings between hot and cold Balancer for the cells Appropriate charge voltage for your configuration If those are the LMO cells I'm thinking of, you'll want to make sure they stay cool as well. Different chemistry than the yinglongs. Honestly... My 2 cents is to keep the yinglongs. Car audio is like, the perfect use case for those LTO cells
  9. Short answer: no Long answer: max number is kinda the wrong metric to be measuring this at. You should be looking at max output level before distortion, then setting the gain on the rest of your equipment based on that. When that's all dialed in, it'll be the same whether it distorts at 15 or 59. Only difference being the granularity you'll have in the volume control.
  10. What are ya building?
  11. Depends if the head unit has a LPF on the sub output If not, you can make it work. But it might get goofy when tuning the head unit. Sub level would affect your mids. EQ settings might only apply to one of the RCA outs. Ideally, get a different head unit that better suits your needs? I'm not sure what your financial situation is, but that unit looks to be a pretty entry level one from ~4 years ago. Should be able to pick up a unit with 4 channel+sub preouts for under 150. Maybe ideally, one with 4v preouts too. Barring that, there's nothing inherently wrong with a splitter. Though if the output voltage is weak, you might have more difficulty setting gains - e.g. amp gain is up all the way and it's still not where it needs to be.
  12. Honestly I hate those things. MDF doesn't lend itself well to inserts of any sort. If you want threads, the best way to do it would be to laser out some rings from sheet steel, drill and tap those, bolt that to the back side of your baffle, then secure the driver to that. Barring that, the screws I've had the best luck with are some spax #8 multi material construction screws.
  13. There's a goldilocks zone. Too little port area will result in audible chuffing, loss in output, can cause unloading due to turbulent airflow and loss of backpressure. Too much can complicate box design and also result in unloading - particularly below the tuning frequency. There's also port shape, which will have an effect on how much port area you need - an 8" round port will NOT be the same as a 2x10" slot port with the same area. How much port velocity you can have without chuffing and turbulence is a function of how wide the port is along the smallest axis - boundary layer behavior. I can't seem to find it again, but a while ago, I read some info discussing this subject. Will post back if it pops up. The very loose rule of thumb is 12-16" of port area per cuft of box displacement. More realistically, it's a function of tuning frequency and power to the driver. Just.... Don't read too far into that. The port resonances in winISD given are based on the speed of sound (think like a transmission line box). Unless you're playing close to ~150hz with your sub, don't worry about that one. The other bit with that program - it calculates on an open area. Like, box in the middle of a field, not in your car - so whatever response profile it gives needs to be taken with a grain of salt.
×
×
  • Create New...