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SnowDrifter

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SnowDrifter last won the day on September 16 2024

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  1. First pass would be to shove the leads from the multi meter into the inputs on your amp and get a voltage reading there. If it's that repeatable, use a sine wave and work up the volume until it cuts out and note what the voltage drop is I'd also look at your speaker wiring to make sure there's nothing scuffed / nicked / loose / etc And also sanity check that gains are set properly and that you're not sending a square wave
  2. Always feels bad getting rid of expensive stuff like that. I know it's not 'forever' but like.... Good stuff is big money I bet ya that's 17-1800lbs. More than I could lift, but only barely
  3. RIP my bike. Got ran over by a box truck (I'm fine). Just shy of 12k miles on it And her replacement: If any y'all go through this, and I hope you never do: Get a police report. Insurance won't do jack without it. And save every single receipt. They'll ask for them. Get your bike inspected by an independent shop to establish damages, because they *will* short change you otherwise. And hold onto the thing. Don't fiddle with it. They sent an appraiser out as well.
  4. Could you post a quick sketch of your current and proposed setup?
  5. Yeah that's a thing hah Red lens - get a red LED I've purchased from vleds before and been happy with it.
  6. Does it sound like it's about half as loud? Might be worth re-seating the RCA connectors on both the amp and the back of the head unit
  7. Welcome to the forum! Feel free to make a new thread so we can better assist
  8. Go ahead and make a new topic so we can better assist If it comes down to it, you're not that far from me. I'd be more than happy to give everything a once over too https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/12-electrical-battery-alternators-wiring/?do=add
  9. What sort of charge voltage are you running? If you don't have an external regulator / constant voltage, you'll want to do that as well. The tl;dr is a lithium charge curve is different than lead/acid. There is no bulk/float charge state. It's CC/CV.
  10. Agree with Joe on this one. I know everyone here gets pretty fussy about keeping voltage perfect and whatnot... But realistically, the thing is a big 'ol hunk of solid state electronics. It doesn't actually care that much. In theory, it should have basic over/under volt protection, over-current, and high temp cutoffs. How well those work in practice is a different discussion. But that's what it *should* have. How bad was the fire? I'm pondering if we could see where it started on the board to glean any information. A brain dump of other things to check: - Intermittent short in output. Maybe not enough to trigger OCP, but enough to start overloading parts - Excessively high signal input. And I mean *excessive*. How's it hooked up? - 'wire whiskers' either getting in the amp, or shorting out where it shouldn't be - Confirming that it was actually the amp that lit off, not something near by? - What's your alternator setup looking like? Internal/external regulation? Any possibility of voltage spikes? >17v on a 12v system would be pretty difficult to do.... But it's still worth checking - Where's it mounted? Vibration makes everything sad IMO, you're squarely in tip-to-toe lookover of your setup. Feel free to toss up pics. But at this point, I don't think it would be wise to assume anything is good. Need to get in there and start checking everything. Grab a wrench, tighten bolts and screws, give your terminations a *hard* tug, look for any dust, dirt, wire whiskers, or other debris, check that nothing is pinched in doors / frame rail / etc, check sub wiring, tinsel leads, spider attachment, all of it
  11. Neat idea It's been my experience that LLMs really struggle with simulating data like that though. A quick primer if you don't know how they work: Using a fuckton of math. Like, multi-thousand dimensional matrix multiplication - It completes an interaction based on a most-likely-word to complete a given chain. So for example, if I asked you to complete the sentence: "I walked to" You might say 'the store' or 'my friends house' because those are likely endings. But you probably wouldn't say something like 'cooked for 1 hour' or 'because it knows where it isn't' because neither of those would make sense - it's not a language pattern the LLM found in its data. With that context in mind, it doesn't have the ability to analyze information. Only regurgitate language patterns and, at times, theorize about new things (independent of if that's real or not). That's usually best left to other tools. LLM is great for interfacing with the user, but you'll probably need a dedicated neural network or perhaps even a deep learning model for handling the actual box calculations. That would need to be spit into modeling software to evaluate, given a p/f or ranking or some sort, checked against user constraints, then repeated again until it narrows in on a design. Regardless - I vibe with the idea here. It would be pretty neat to get a functional design tool. Especially for new-user type stuff where it can help with all the 'gotchas' of building a box. Like port aspect ratios, high/low pressure sections in the box, the somewhat 'fuzzy logic' of power, net volume, port area, and tuning, etc etc... Nonetheless, this was my user interaction if you wanted to gauge how the thing behaves: I have a sundown sa12 on 1200w. I want it tuned to 29hz. My max dimensions are 24x24x24 To design a subwoofer enclosure for your Sundown SA-12 with 1200W RMS power, tuned to 29 Hz, within the maximum dimensions of 24x24x24 inches, we need to determine the optimal enclosure type and dimensions. We'll use the typical parameters for a ported (bass reflex) enclosure since it's common for achieving good low-frequency extension and output. ### Subwoofer Parameters (Sundown SA-12) - **Subwoofer Size**: 12 inches - **RMS Power**: 1200W - **Fs (Resonant Frequency)**: 33.0 Hz - **Qts (Total Q Factor)**: 0.46 - **Vas (Equivalent Compliance Volume)**: 21.5 liters (0.76 cu ft) - **Xmax (Maximum Linear Excursion)**: 19 mm - **Recommended Enclosure Volume**: 2.0-2.5 cu ft for ported box ### Step-by-Step Design 1. **Calculate Internal Volume**: Given your maximum dimensions (24x24x24 inches), the internal volume can be calculated considering the thickness of the material (typically 0.75 inches for MDF). - External dimensions: 24" x 24" x 24" - Internal dimensions: \( (24 - 2 \times 0.75) = 22.5 \) inches (for each side) - Internal volume: \( 22.5 \times 22.5 \times 22.5 = 11392.875 \) cubic inches - Convert to cubic feet: \( 11392.875 / 1728 \approx 6.6 \) cubic feet However, this volume includes the space taken up by the subwoofer and the port. 2. **Adjust for Subwoofer and Port Volume**: - Subwoofer displacement: approximately 0.1-0.15 cu ft - Port displacement: depends on the design, but let's approximate it at 0.2 cu ft Effective internal volume: \( 6.6 - 0.15 - 0.2 = 6.25 \) cubic feet 3. **Target Volume and Tuning Frequency**: - Recommended volume for a ported enclosure: 2.0-2.5 cu ft - Let's choose a target volume: 2.5 cu ft - Tuning frequency: 29 Hz 4. **Calculate Port Dimensions**: Use a port calculator or the following formula: \[ L = \frac{{(23562.5 \cdot D^2)}}{{(Vb \cdot Fb^2)}} - 0.823 \cdot D \] Where: - \( L \) = Port length (in inches) - \( D \) = Port diameter (in inches) - \( Vb \) = Box volume (in cubic inches) - \( Fb \) = Tuning frequency (in Hz) For a slot port: - Assume a port area of 16 square inches (4" x 4" port). - Port length \( L \) can be calculated iteratively or using online calculators. ### Example Calculation: Using a port calculator: - Box Volume (Vb): 2.5 cu ft = 4320 cubic inches - Tuning Frequency (Fb): 29 Hz - Port Area: 16 square inches Approximate Port Length (using a port calculator): - Port Length: ~20 inches ### Final Design Dimensions: - Internal box dimensions: approximately 18" x 18" x 22" (accounting for bracing and subwoofer displacement) - Port dimensions: 4" x 4" x 20" ### Blueprint: 1. **Front View**: - Subwoofer centered - Port on one side 2. **Top View**: - Subwoofer cutout - Port extending along one side 3. **Side View**: - Box height: 18 inches - Port extending back 20 inches ### Materials: - **MDF or Plywood**: 0.75 inches thick - **Bracing**: Recommended for structural integrity - **Sealant**: Ensure airtight construction ### Tools: - BassBox Pro - SketchUp/CAD for visualization - Measurement tools for precision Would you like a detailed blueprint with exact cut dimensions and assembly instructions, or additional guidance on the specific design aspects? yes ### Detailed Blueprint for Sundown SA-12 Subwoofer Enclosure #### 1. Materials Required: - 0.75" MDF or plywood sheets - Wood screws - Wood glue - Silicone sealant - Subwoofer terminal cup - Port tube (4" diameter, 20" length) #### 2. Internal Box Dimensions: - **Width**: 22.5 inches - **Height**: 22.5 inches - **Depth**: 22.5 inches - **Effective internal volume**: 2.5 cubic feet after accounting for subwoofer and port displacement #### 3. External Box Dimensions: - **Width**: 24 inches - **Height**: 24 inches - **Depth**: 24 inches ### Cut List: 1. **Front/Back Panels**: - Quantity: 2 - Dimensions: 24" x 24" 2. **Side Panels**: - Quantity: 2 - Dimensions: 22.5" x 24" 3. **Top/Bottom Panels**: - Quantity: 2 - Dimensions: 22.5" x 22.5" 4. **Port**: - Quantity: 1 - Dimensions: 4" diameter, 20" length ### Assembly Instructions: #### 1. Cutting the Panels: - Use a table saw to cut the MDF or plywood into the required dimensions. #### 2. Cutting the Subwoofer Hole: - Mark the center on one of the 24" x 24" panels (this will be the front panel). - Cut out the hole for the subwoofer using a jigsaw. The cutout diameter should match the mounting specifications of the Sundown SA-12. #### 3. Assembling the Box: 1. **Front and Back Panels**: - Attach the side panels (22.5" x 24") to the front panel (24" x 24") using wood glue and screws. Ensure the edges are flush. 2. **Top and Bottom Panels**: - Attach the top and bottom panels (22.5" x 22.5") to the assembled sides and front panel, ensuring all edges are flush. 3. **Port Installation**: - Cut a hole for the port tube in the front panel, positioned as desired (usually at the bottom or side). - Install the port tube (4" diameter, 20" length) securely using wood glue and sealant to prevent air leaks. 4. **Subwoofer Terminal Cup**: - Cut a hole for the terminal cup on the back panel and install it. 5. **Sealing**: - Apply silicone sealant to all internal joints to ensure the enclosure is airtight. #### 4. Installing Bracing: - Add internal bracing to prevent panel flexing. Use scraps of MDF or plywood to create braces between the panels. #### 5. Subwoofer Installation: - Connect the wiring from the subwoofer terminal cup to the subwoofer. - Mount the Sundown SA-12 into the front panel cutout using screws, ensuring a tight fit to avoid air leaks. ### 3D Blueprint Visualization: I'll create a detailed blueprint for visualization using the given dimensions and steps. #### 3D Blueprint Generation: ```{ "prompt": "Create a 3D blueprint of a subwoofer enclosure for a Sundown SA-12 subwoofer, with the following details: Box dimensions (24\" x 24\" x 24\" external), internal dimensions (22.5\" x 22.5\" x 22.5\"), a 4\" diameter port of 20\" length, and a subwoofer cutout in the front panel. Show detailed assembly with front, side, and top views, including bracing and terminal cup placement.", "size": "1792x1024", "n": 1 } ``` The generated blueprint will provide a visual guide for the construction process. ### Cut Sheet: - Front/Back Panels: 2 pieces of 24" x 24" - Side Panels: 2 pieces of 22.5" x 24" - Top/Bottom Panels: 2 pieces of 22.5" x 22.5" - Port: 4" diameter, 20" length ### Conclusion: This enclosure design should provide optimal performance for your Sundown SA-12 subwoofer, tuned to 29 Hz. Proper sealing and bracing are crucial for the best sound quality and durability. Follow the steps and use the blueprint for a successful build. If you have any questions or need further adjustments, feel free to ask!
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