SnowDrifter

I think it's worth noting that for crimping, you want the closed ended copper lugs. Use the open ended brass ones for solder

Those set screw fuse holders have no place in under hood applications. Need a proper ring + bolt style

yah

fak

Will need to poke around on that one

Jesus that's fast Yeah it would be nice. But stepping to electric takes it from the ~300 price range to the ~1200 price range pretty quick. Coupled with the cost of the bike, that's getting into the price range of a motorcycle and is, quite frankly, more than I want to spend for the convenience of having something like this

My original plan was to put on either a powered hub or a mid drive motor kit. Something electric. But those are more than I want to spend The fallback was to put a small engine in the frame and either let it have its own chain drive to the rear, or piggy back it onto the original drivetrain so I can have access to the gears. But my frame is tiny and won't fit even the smallest of engines So.. Now I'm back to the drawing board. Considering either friction drive or belt drive. Unless there's a way to incorporate a chain driven system without losing any of the original functionality of the bike - I want to keep the rear gearset and disc brake. Does anyone have any experience with this? Trying to evaluate options right now. Bike is a trek marlin 6, 18.5" frame, 29" wheels. Price target is <$300

Why are you announcing it? Leave or don't. But posting your exit for the sake of sticking around to see what people say is just pathetic.

Yessir! Good eye

How long have you given it? How are you measuring?

Not sure what your problem was. You swapped subs and score went down at a different frequency? Therefore it's the subs fault? To say there's a collection of unaccounted for variables here is an understatement