Jump to content


Super Moderator
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


SnowDrifter last won the day on November 22

SnowDrifter had the most liked content!


About SnowDrifter

18+  All Access!
Forum Veteran
  • Birthday 05/20/1994

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

SnowDrifter's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • First Post Rare

Recent Badges



  1. Hey bud welcome to SMD! Could you rephrase your post to avoid brand to brand comparisons? Your previous post was locked for the same reason and asking the same thing again ain't it chief. These posts tend to turn into fanboyism / appeal to familiarity vs something productive as very few people have the appropriate testing equipment to really dig into the nuances. Questions about models within a brand are fine, but brand v. brand is not. As it stands, literally any of them will give a warm, accurate, clear, and detailed sound if you install them right. Avoid standing waves, take time to EQ, position sound stage, time correction, etc Please rephrase post <24h https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum-rules/
  2. External regulator. Turn a dial to set the voltage and you're done. Alternator is PCM controlled and adjusted from measurements taken from a ground clamp IIRC.
  3. Might try shooting them an email for that one I can speak to chemistry and usability. But I don't have any hands on experience with the things and am hesitant to make any recommendations given the financial cost of these units
  4. IMO.... LiFePO4 is more suited for bulk storage. Such as parking your car at a show and playing it with the engine off for extended periods. These batteries (like all batteries) have a cycle count before they degrade and become inappropriate for use. With good care, you should be in the 1200-2000 cycle count range. XS power uses LTO (Lithium Titanate) in their titan8 products (yinglong IIRC) - this has a lower energy density than lithium iron phosphate, but can tolerate a much higher current load. This chemistry, while expensive and bulky for the storage you get, tolerates a far, FAR higher cycle count than other lithium chemistries - nearly on par with capacitors. LTO cells should be somewhere around the 20k cycle count range. They're also a bit more temperature tolerant than LiFePO4 / NMC / NCA chemistries. With that background, if you're looking for a daily groundpounder, I'd submit that LTO is the most suited for this task. Bit pricier and bulkier for a given capacity, but lower resistance, high cycle count, and temperature tolerance allows for a more straightforward install. Independent of which choice you get: You'll want to use an externally regulated alternator, and remove any lead/acid batteries you have. Current automotive alternators are intended to operate around a lead/acid chemistry (charge at higher voltage when cold for bulk charge, then taper off to lower voltage) that are NOT suited for lithium cells (constant current / constant voltage). And be mindful not to overcharge the things. You can get away with pushing voltages on lead / acid batteries. If you do the same with lithium: Best case, you chop your product lifetime to a fraction of what it would otherwise be. Worst case: you ever seen a lithium fire? They're nasty. If you want to DIY, read heavily into balancers, BMS systems, lithium charge profiles, and charge/discharge ratings. If you buy off-the-shelf from XS power or something - read the spec sheet and adhere to it.
  5. Clipping refers to the tips of the sine wave literally being 'clipped' off because the signal/gain is being driven beyond what the power supply / voltage of the amplifier can supply Bottoming out is a different issue altogether. Too much power, too big of a box, too little port, playing below tuning, etc. In either scenario: The reason for the extra heat is because in clipping, you're now sending DC voltage to a system designed for AC voltage. A current moving through a wire creates a magnetic field, and a wire moving through a magnetic field creates current. Your speaker is a wire moving through a magnetic field, and there's some interplay between those two properties. This is called inductance - it's why you have a DC resistance of the coils. But if you so much as breathe on it, you'll get wildly fluctuating readings. That's also the property that is responsible for 'rise' - or the frequency dependent variation in AC resistance presented by a particular driver/install. Here's a graphic from the IM-SG owner's manual for clarification on what that looks like Pushing beyond mechanical specification results in a similar behavior because the coil is leaving the magnetic field and becoming a simple resistor. No inductive feedback = more power than intended is being sent.
  6. Clipping is an electrical property, not mechanical. It refers to the voltage profile going to your driver
  7. Dude we aren't google. We are people. Please speak to us accordingly.

  8. Unfortuntaly this can be an issue on some larger alternators. Part of why we as a forum generally recommend some pretty specific alternator brands. Mechman, DC. I believe Singer's turned a corner in the last couple years, but I have no experience with them. Raising your idle is definitely a thing. Might be able to be done through software - trying to tighten a throttle cable or something will make you sad. Just... Don't.... For my old vehicle, I was cramming 20lbs into a 10lb bag and got a 390a alternator. The engine had a 5.5" crank pulley on it which was below turnon speed for the alt. But... I knew what I was getting into. The finals solution to that one was to get a custom 7.5" overdrive crank pulley tooled up from a company called Unorthodox Racing. Also got a couple extra ribs on there and associated power steering pulley for belt slip. Wasn't the easiest, or cheapest solution, but IMO, was the most elegant as I had no room for dual alts or similar. IIRC, was around $800 ish. Cost more than the alt, but it got me to where I needed to be. Not sure how much you paid for your unit or what your other restrictions are. But, realistically, you have 3 options 1. Different alt / send to manufacturer for better idle output 2. Overdrive pulley on the crank. You really won't be able to get a smaller than 1.75" pulley for the alt. And if you somehow manage to, it'll slip. A lot. 3. Program a higher idle speed in the computer (touch base w/ your local race / dyno shop)
  9. Built a wheel that won't kill me. Last one was pretty irreparablebly dickered. First time doing anything like it. Wasn't too bad tbh, just need to be methodical and patient. 3sp internal gearing, plus 9sp wide range cassette. That was the final step, now it's officially done. Final result is an ace of spades, king of none that will comfortably do forest trails and street use. Usable speed range from 2 to 35mph with comfortable pedaling. Only other bit is a stronger fork... But ill tackle that if or when any issues present themselves. Shits expensive at the moment
  • Create New...