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SnowDrifter

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  1. Does this work for ya? http://www.oldversion.com/windows/google-sketchup-8-0-16846
  2. Couldn't have said it better myself, Kyle! brand v. brand isn't allowed here. If you have a question about a product stack from a single manufacturer, we can help there. But the demographic of people who have used both specific models you're asking about in a controlled enough environment that could give an actual answer is.... Small. It's brand loyalty and 'I used this so it's fine.' Nothing of substance. Tbh, the install itself has such a huge bearing on how things sound, that chasing minute differences is an exercise in futility. And I mean little things - is your interior hard plastic or leather // angle of tweeters // listening position // suv or sedan // what your floor mats are made of // etc etc.
  3. Customer service that either doesn't read what was sent, or fails to address questions / concerns.
  4. The whole 'battery delete' thing isn't indicating to remove the battery, just to avoid mixing chemistries. There are some other reasons, but they don't apply to your rig. With your desired setup, there are 2 advantages here: 1. It's in the trunk. Away from the hood. Away from the heat of the engine. 2. LTO is a kickass chemistry. So.... The usual advice for deleting the under-hood battery is geared much more around conventional battery installs, where running NMC/LFP batteries under the hood would well exceed safe operating temps for those chemistries. LTO doesn't mind it. And you're in the trunk. So honestly, if it fits, you can just toss an LTO battery in the stock location. Barring that, you can see about finding a 'dummy battery' - an empty battery case with terminals, serving as a placeholder. Other considerations: - It would be ideal to convert your alternator to external regulation, or find some other means to maintain a constant charge voltage that doesn't have hot-cold fluctuation. Granted, LTO is much less sensitive to this than other chemistries. But you still don't want to over-charge them. Or under-charge them. - Quick glance at the given specs for the batteries you posted looks like it's in a 6s config. LTO cells are fully charged at ~2.8v. Which means you'd want your alternator set to about 16v. Charging in the ~14v range at stock voltage would mean that you have basically no battery capacity. If, however, you got a 5s battery, that would be fully charged at ~13.5v, and charging higher would be over-charging. Above 3v per cell would be over-charged (15v in a 5s config), causing accelerated wear. And above 3.2v per cell would cause rapid and immediate degradation of the unit (16v in a 5s config). Though, of note, LTO cells don't have a catastrophic failure mode as would other chemistries. So it'll just quietly stop working as opposed to turning into a flamethrower.
  5. Yeah I reckon left is left, right is right You can always put it on low volume and play with knobs to verify
  6. You should get an externally regulated alt for a lithium bank, regardless of charge voltage. Lithiums don't do bulk-float charge. It's CC/CV. i.e. you might want to charge at 14.4v under all conditions.
  7. I'd think you could use some aluminum rod-stock, drill out the center, and mount the seat with longer bolts, no? Just.... Be very careful when you do this. Use as large stock as you can fit. Use good bolts. Just be mindful that the seat anchors are ultimately what hold it still in the event of a crash. You definitely don't want those breaking! Or maybe even tap the hole and use a stud over a bolt.
  8. Crossover point is defined as -3db Which corresponds to a voltage change of 1/√2 So what you do is turn the crossovers off / down / up / etc. Make them not filter anything Play a 500hz sine wave at some arbitrary volume with the speakers disconnected, and measure acV (10v for example)on your amp's output. Write that number down, divide it by √2, then there's your -3db point (7.1v for example) Now play 500hz again, at the same volume, after setting your crossover. If the voltage is higher than the number you just calculated, the HP is set <500hz. If the voltage is lower than calculated, then the HP is >500hz. If everything matches up, then you're set where intended. Note that not all multimeters to higher frequency stuff, so YMMV. 500hz is *usually* in spec, but you're pushing the limits there. I usually use this method to set low pass filters on subs / mid-bass drivers. in the 50-120hz range
  9. Oh yep. Current meter! Seeing those more and more on vehicles. tl;dr it lets the computer control alternator voltage to smartly charge the battery. Hell... I have one on my '05. If you add any wiring on, you have to make sure any frame-battery ground passes through this sensor. Otherwise it'll act all sorts of goofy as you discovered. Good to know that the default fail-behavior is constant voltage an no CEL.
  10. Yinglong (lto) is probably going to be the longest lived / most user friendly. High charge/discharge capacity and cycle life. And they aren't temperature sensitive. This will come at the cost of energy density though You will, however, want to include a balancing circuit in there. Make sure all the cells are the same voltage and won't drift over time. Edit: I believe this chemistry can also be found out of some Honda hybrids / PHEVs. Pull the pack for parts. Should be able to get ~$300/kwh Edit 2: oh and you'll want to convert the alternator to external regulation. Li-X cells rely, universally on a CC-CV charge profile over the bulk-float charge that lead/acid batteries use. So a cold-hot voltage shift would reallllly not be all too usable
  11. whooops broke the frame on this one New frame time This thing is like the ship of Theseus. As of now, the original parts from the donor bike are: handle bars, stem, pedals, chain. New frame time. With some hilarious branding
  12. I don't know if this is still the case, but when I used rustoleum years ago - it had a serious issue with drying. Anything I painted took weeks to fully cure such that it wouldn't indent from a finger nail. And it was *only* with rustoleum.
  13. Take a multi meter and probe between + and + or - and -. I bet they're internally paralleled to give more installation options As to the resistance: It's the impedance that's rated at 8 ohms. Not resistance, which is what we measure with a multi meter. The difference being: Resistance measured with DC, and impedance is AC. Now I have 2 thoughts spring into mind on this: 1. The manufacturer expects inductive behaviors of the moving coil/magnet system to reflect closer to an 8 ohm impedance, despite a 5.4 ohm resistance. You'll see this on the car stereo side too. Dual "1 ohm" coils can read around 0.7. 2. The presence of the crossover is affecting the DC resistance of the system as it's intended to function on an AC system.
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