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SnowDrifter

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SnowDrifter last won the day on January 19

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  • Birthday 05/20/1994

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  1. Merry Christmas!

    1. Hotdog

      Hotdog

      Merry Christmas

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  2. Explanation and rambling below. tl;dr, speaker outputs are high voltage, amp casing is ground. Treat it accordingly. If everything still works, I doubt there's any long standing damage to either device. A bit of heat shrink isn't a bad idea, or even a fully insulated connector. Will tag @TonyD'Amore so he can see this. Full bridge, half bridge, class D, AB, etc are all the same in this regard The rails on the amp are energized, and the amp casing is, electrically, a ground. Full bridge / half bridge within this context only refers to if the voltage modulation (signal) happens on one terminal, or both. But regardless, they're both energized. They need to be. Having one terminal at "0v" and the other terminal at any other voltage would just be like wiring a battery to your speaker - DC offset. negative/positive doesn't really exist here as we normally think about negative and positive.... It's just to keep phase consistent, so just bear that in mind when I talk about this. Imagine both pos and neg are charged to 40v. How do you move the driver forward? Positive needs to increase to >40v, so that the ΔV is positive. So, if you play a signal that has an amplitude of 20v, your positive would need to be 60v, and your negative would remain 40v. ΔV = 60v-40v=20v. Then on the other half of the sine wave, where the driver needs to move backwards, positive would be reduced to 20v, so ΔV = 20v-40v=-20v. Whether this is done through one of the output terminals, or both, doesn't matter for the sake of this context. The point I'm trying to make is that regardless of the amplifier design, your speaker terminals should be treated as an energized, high voltage source. Hell, the large 12kw+ amplifiers put out more voltage than you'd get at a wall socket. They become a genuine electrical hazard if you start reaching around and fiddling with stuff wile the system is on.
  3. Projector lights are a different kind of housing technology If a normal headlight puts the bulb in a reflector like a flashlight to guide the light where it needs to go. A projector uses a lens, not unlike a movie projector, to guide the light They generally have a pretty sharp 'cutoff' where the light is, and is not Installation for these involves disassembling the headlight housing with a heat gun / oven, securing the projector unit inside, then reassembling it with some butyl adhesive to seal it back up. To my knowledge, these are only compatible with HID bulbs. Regarding the blue color: That's entirely dependent on what you purchase. Bulbs come in different color temperatures, which affect the color of the light output 3000k - piss yellow 3800k - looks like normal incandescent 4000k - white 4300k - 'crystal' white. Like the sort of white you get off your computer screen, and my personal favorite 5000k - bluish white, really lights up reflectors and animal eyes 6000k - notably blue. Performs markedly worse in the rain and doesn't cut through wet roads well (imo) higher - why
  4. This. Anything else about equipment is largely irrelevant. Alts won't stop the millisecond level voltage dips and spikes. nor will a bank of batteries Need led / hids, 2 charging systems, or a voltage regulator/driver for the headlights Just.... If you go the hid/led route, at a minimum, get bulbs that will let you adjust the focal point so you don't have squirrel finders. Or better yet, convert the things to projectors from the retrofit source or something (there are others out there, those are just the only ones that pop into my head).
  5. Asking what the best speakers are is like asking what the best flavor of cake is It's both highly subjective, and depends on the main course. A triple chocolate ice cream cake may not pair well a tomato bisque. Likewise, you should be finding something that sounds good to you. With the added complexity of install greatly changing how things sound. This is a good thing - you have a LOT of influence over the sound of your drivers by doing things like deadening doors, on/off axis response, crossover frequencies, and equalization. How to shop: - Figure out what you need from them. Mids only? Component set? All in one? - What your power handling requirements are - Budget - Size constraints Once you know all of those, shop from a brand you like. Some reasons are local availability, warranty, customer support, keeping a common brand in a build, general part quality, etc etc.
  6. To verify: With the ground cable disconnected, the ground terminal on your amplifier reads 7v when 12v is supplied, then returns to 0v once the amp is grounded, at which point it works as normal?
  7. Can replicate on Chrome v107 and Edge v107. Issue not present in Firefox. Trigger seems to be reloading the page when the browser not in a maximized window. Does so intermittently. Occurs on all themes. Validated in a fresh VM.
  8. Had WAY too close of a call with a pedestrian In hindsight, I should have picked up on her sudden sprint was an intent to cross earlier than I did. Missed it because there wasn't the over the shoulder check / usual "I'm going to cross" body language + sign was clear the road, not cross the road. Taking it as a learning opportunity that pedestrians are strange and unpredictable creatures and budget driving habits accordingly in the future. Now we both have stories to come home and tell. I'm glad nothing happened. Cause that was all of 3 feet / half a second way from turning an uh-oh into an oh-no. Stay safe out there. Look both ways when walking, look for people when driving. When in doubt, give way.
  9. ^^ good advice Wire doesn't degrade unless something causes it to. CCA is a fair bit more sensitive to this on account of galvanic corrosion behavior + aluminum/s propensity to form oxide layers in air. Old aluminum home wiring needs grease in the connections for that reason. OFC is more robust in this regard. Tinned OFC, even more so. But even still - your connections should be sealed. Good terminations are gas-tight and impermeable. Either soldered, or crimped with closed-ended lugs, and covered with adhesive lined heat shrink. Normal 'decorative' heat shrink has no place under the hood IMO. If you really need to, toss some (high temp) hot glue in the connection before you put heat shrink over it - that accomplishes the same thing with respect to sealing. Aside from that.... Just inspect stuff periodically. Keep your wires off of sharp objects. Any rub-points should be bolstered with some loom to prevent frictional wear.
  10. Anyways here's my roughly quarterly dashcam compilation Not much in the way of shenanigans. Though...I guess that's good? The Subaru at the end chapped my ass a bit. Driver was going 24 in a 35 with a conga line of cars behind them. But get shitty with me when all I want to do is go around and continue my day
  11. Loose connection explains the heat Depending on how hot it got, you might have to work it back and forth / twist it to get the thing out. Once removed, inspect the terminal. You might have to wrap some sand paper around a pencil eraser and clean it up. tbh... You don't need 0ga for this amp. That wasn't the cause of failure here. I don't think you'd gain much by going that route. Use good 4ga ofc, preferably tinned. Put the set screws down nice and snug. Check your connections periodically. You should be going over them daily after a new install for 2-3 times. Then once again at some sort of fixed interval. Every 6mo, every oil change, etc. Pick something that works for you and make sure everything's tight, clean, and corrosion free.
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