SnowDrifter

Could you be more descriptive in your issues? Cut out as in all drivers ceased all sound forever? One went off? They came back on later? Etc etc What have you investigated so far? Any notable happenings prior, or during this event?

1. Stop keyboard yelling. We are a public forum. A tantrum is more apt to be ignored. No one wants to carry on a conversation with an angry man-child. This goes for all your posts. We are not your enemy. 2. Lest it be forgotten, we are still in the middle of an epidemic, economic crisis, and social unrest. Many still work from home. Sundown may or may not be there to answer phones. Email continues to be the best route of communication in these times. --- all points below need to be answered. If you skip one because you don't feel like answering it, I'll skip the thread because I don't feel like helping --- 3. Shitty is subjective. Describe in clear, concise detail, what your issues are. Re-state them clearly. 4. What are the specs on your box? 36hz tells little. Post measurements, 3d models, pictures, etc. Give us enough information that someone could build a 1:1 copy of your box. 5. How is the box mounted in your vehicle? 6. What vehicle do you have? Do you maintain the original radio, or have you installed an aftermarket unit? 7. How is the LOC installed? Give enough information here that if given the same vehicle, I could replicate your install here down to the smallest detail, including any settings on your LOC. 8. What method, if any, did you use to set your gain and crossovers, and how was this validated? 9. What are you using for wiring, and how is this done? Have you verified any voltages? 10. What steps, if any, have you taken for diagnosis of your issue?

1. Open / closed refers to contacts. Closed = completed circuit. Open = no current flowing 3. Not isolators on the negative. Just the switch used. It simplifies wiring. Instead of having two wires through the firewall, you only need one, and can just complete the ground circuit inside the vehicle where convenient. 5. SMD / D'Amore offer an adjustable fan turn on / temp monitor 6. What alternator do you have? I'd do some serious cost analysis here. 500 amp solenoids are what... 75 to 100 bucks a piece? A transpo 911-02R external regulator will run you about $115. Just need to figure out how to wire it into your alternator, whether it be a direct connection because it's externally regulated from the factory, or you need to swap the regulator / brush pack out

A smattering of thoughts in no particular order Your isolators are normally closed? Attempting to leave them energized such that they're open will cause a parasitic drain That will work. It's my opinion that you're working hard to bandaid an issue though. Don't forget a fuse on your switch. Also, I like switched grounds as opposed to switched positives. Ditch your under hood battery. Install a dummy battery or replace it with a capacitor or something. Do NOT put lithiums under the hood. Too hot! For insulation / fire safety, get some ceramic wool like is used in melting furnaces. Just be mindful you have a temperature control system in place. Too hot is bad. Too cold is bad You should be running an externally regulated alternator when running lithiums. Or a similar means of preventing the differential hot / cold charging voltage.

Please do not re post the same thread, after it was already deleted for being in the wrong section. This is for music. Songs. Beats. Not for help with your head unit, which would be here

Please contact Tony at [email protected] if you're interested in becoming a supporting business on the forum. Thanks!

Did you remove any stock wiring? Where are you measuring your voltage from? Any loads on the system? Does your vehicle have any smart charging / current clamps?

Get the 16 ton one for 0 gauge IMO. The smaller ones are a bit light in the loafers

Explorer B pillar removal.pdf Explorer C pillar removal.pdf Explorer Headliner Removal.pdf Explorer rear trim removal.pdf

Darn is that thing as big as it looks in the pics?

You're doing my job for me

Welcome!

Ain't much, but it's something

Respect their operating specs. Don't run them hot or cold. Don't over charge them. Don't exceed the limits, even by a little. Depending on the size of your bank and what you have hooked up to it, a fuse may or may not be needed. I'd do it out of good practice, but smaller <500f banks with only 0 gauge off it honestly don't carry enough energy to do much if something grounds out. It'll spark and make a racket and you might weld some stuff. But you're not going to incur a giant meltdown like you would if you shorted out a battery. Oh, and balance the things. Either put resistors on there, LEDs w/ resistors, or a snazzy active setup. The manufacturing tolerances are generally within about 10% but the operating conditions are not.