SnowDrifter
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Posts posted by SnowDrifter
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Or heck... What's a good small-midsize pickup that seats at least 4? If a rwd car isn't possible, how about a pickup with a blowthrough and a locking bed cover?
At this point, I am just looking for something that is rwd / 4x4, manual, and something with a lockable trunk that no one can see in to take my subs to be.
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Does anybody know of any that are rwd?
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I want to upload one of the songs that I slowed... I but I don't know what a good website to use is =(
Suggestions?
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Hey ill have to make another post this evening but my buddy has an Infinity something or other and its got enough room for me to get into the trunk to work (6' 310lbs) and has a fold down armrest and is pretty loud with two tens on about 250watts lol. ill get the year/model today and let you know. btw i can design bandpass if you need a design
Ill be looking =)
I'm fine on a design, thanks though
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In order: Either one. Port through hole would be preferred. If I can't get a car where the armrest folds down, I will port the box normally and fold the seat down.
As for headlights: HID led headlights?
And yes. 1kw for mids and highs. Including about 350w midbass
Will this be a bandpass then? Because that would probably be the best idea if they will be shut in the trunk by themselves.
Is this 350 watts of dedicated midbass? Such as from 70-250hz?
No, and yes. In order
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So you want ot do something like this?
Or just have the port going through that hole?
1KW for the mids/highs when you are only running 2KW for the subs? And you won't need 2 alts for that. To stop dimming you could replace all the lights with LEDs, then you won't have any dimming at all
In order: Either one. Port through hole would be preferred. If I can't get a car where the armrest folds down, I will port the box normally and fold the seat down.
As for headlights: HID led headlights?
And yes. 1kw for mids and highs. Including about 350w midbass
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How about the one below?
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no the whole rear seat goes down. but it goes down 1/3 and 2/3
How about the nissan maxima?
By the way, I found one on CL
Let me know what you think
And another one that I am more inclined to pick than the one above because it is a manual transmission
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if i was you id look for a car that has fold down rear seats ........you could seal the box from the trunk that way you would only be pressizing the cabin and you subs would get louder
As much as I would like to do that, it needs to seat 4, while having trunk space as I carpool to school allot. I am looking for a car that can do this and that I can bump in.
As for rear seats, I was looking for a trunk pass-through, like the one seen below(it can be smaller). Does the grand am have something like that? I plan on porting it into the cabin via a square port.
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It HAS to be a car, like a sedan or a coupe. And needs to have a separate trunk, not like a small hatchback like the subaru outbacks are.
I don't want anybody seeing my subs and wanting to jack them. I can lock a trunk, and fold up the rear seat so it basically looks stock.
As for power,I plan on running about 2kw to the subs, and 1kw to the mids and highs. This way, I should get minimal voltage drop at idle, and none at higher rpms, and it still leaves some extra power for anything else I should want to put on the car like HIDs and such.
Besides, any level of headlight dimming just tweaks my OCD side so no end, so I would rater have too many alts than too little. Then that way I can keep the most trunk space by having either fewer or smaller batteries.
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I am looking for a car with GOBS of trunk space (like a ford Taurus or more)
It also has to have a fold down center console, and preferably with a pre existing hole into the trunk
I plan on make a box with a square port going through the hole, into the cab Tuning will be at 31hz, and will most likely hold 2 12s.
It is also a first car, so the cheaper the better. And the car being manual is highest priority. A car that can handle a dual alternator bracket would be best since I can wire 2 electrical systems into the car so the lights won't dim. I was just going to hook up 2 mechman alts: One dedicated to the sub batteries, and one for the oem electrical along with the mids and highs.
Price range would preferably by below 4k, but I can go a bit over if there is good reason. Beyond that, it's a bit high for a first car.
And rwd / awd would be greatly preferred over front wheel drive.
(Mods, if this is the wrong forum, feel free. It is general audio, and the car IS based around speakers, so I figured it can go here)
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Get some 1/0 or 2/0 wire, solder some terminals to it, and then do the 'big 3'
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine
So just basically replace the existing wires with bigger ones and make sure the connections are secure?
What is the "chassis to engine" all about? I understand the first 2.
Another way to make a good ground to put it simply is make sure that your area that you are grounded to is completely sanded and make sure that the wire is not loose inside the terminal ring on the end and make sure its tight when you screw it down
I scraped the paint away with a screw driver and a knife. So it's more than just sanded, it should be raw (is this better or worse?
They just simply put 2 short screws into the body of the car (beneath the seats, metal was the same color as the silver on the outside of the car, I assume this is the body and not the frame)
Could be a ground loop or your signal cables are too close to power wires which would explain the engine noise. You need to ground it to some bare metal and not to something painted (sand the surface) and I like to use the bolts on the seats because they generally are attached to a nice solid frame
I have the remote, RCA, and power wires ran down the drivers side panel...so this seems likely. There is a small hole on the passenger side but I have no idea how to get a wire from the batter into it. Is there somewhere I can look up this kind of thing for my vehicle?
It sounds to me like you have a burnt ground trace in the radio. What can happen is if your ground is weak for your amp it will seek ground from somewhere else like trough the ground on the rca and will burn a trace in the radio. So either have the radio checked out or try grounding the negative side of your rca and see if that fixes it.I have seen this before.
If I disconnect the RCA cables from the amp, and it still flexes when I hit the brakes, would that eliminate the possibility of it being the head unit?
For the chassis to engine, it is just that. Sand (not scrape, scraping has the possibility of not removing a fine film of anything that sanding does) a part of the frame, and just undo a bolt from the engine. Attach the wire, reinstall the bolts and you are good to go. The chassis to engine ground just acts as a ground to the alternator.
As for the last one, I would say that it does eliminate the head unit.
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Bad ground.
How do I make a good ground?
Get some 1/0 or 2/0 wire, solder some terminals to it, and then do the 'big 3'
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKtyNW7MDsc
I took some feedback from the first one and made an attempt at a second slowed song. It is how low, by ludacris
Can anybody recommend a good download site so I can avoid the youtube links?
Let me know what you think!
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played it on a system (not mine since im out of town for the holidays) and it did not sound nice. its almost like you have to wait every 15 seconds just for the low notes to kick in. good job on your first try
Damn...
I'll do better on my next one
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Weird... Did a cap on your amp freeze and explode?
Or anything else for that matter?
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So far I love it through my headphones, can't wait for it on my subs!
Great!
Let me know how it goes =)
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I slowed it, bass boosted it, then went through the song and individually boosted the lowest notes.
Let me know what 'ya think!
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Does anyone know the type of plug it takes?
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and off we go to the home theater forum.
Sorry!
But The amp is for pro audio, but I wasn't going to use it for that, rather home audio, nor was it for it's intended use for pro audio. I guessed that general audio would have been safe, but I guess I was wrong.
I also thought that I would get more responses on it in general audio since that has more people browsing it.
Won't happen again
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As the title suggests... I was considering getting one, but I looked at the power draw at 8 ohms/channel. 13.6amps at 1/3d power??!!
I can't ever see this amp reaching full power without blowing the breakers. How are they powered at 120v? Multiple outlets?
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What system are you planning on running?
Found a used kicker warhorse for cheap. Subs, mids, etc are TBD. What I use will be Dependant on the car because I would like to keep some trunk space.
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How about a 98+ Yukon xl? It seems like a 'hoe and a Yukon are practically the same car, but the Yukon has more space.
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many can fit them but, you have other issues to worry about other then trying to stick those alts under the hood, ill never be able to run 4 in my navi cuz of the strain it would put on my truck. and over time kill it...(from what iraggi dom said), your best choice is a gm, the 07+ silverado has soo much room under the hood, and so do 98+tahoes
Sweet! I found a 99 Tahoe with a 5.7l v8. Sounds like just the kinda torque needed to power those alts at idle.
Thoughts?
Still open to any and all other ideas
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What are some first cars?
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Posted
Great!
Is there anything similar that is manual and still rwd with a good trunk?