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SnowDrifter

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Posts posted by SnowDrifter

  1. As the title suggests... I am looking for which cars (can be SUVs, I don't care) are upgradeable to multiple alternators.

    I plan on having a split electrical system: One for just the amplifiers, and keeping the stock one, as well as the stock under-the-hood battery for all the stock equipment to avoid light dimming. Hence, I need to be able to hold multiple alternators.

    A car that I can get a bracket to hold 3 alternators would be nice, 4 would be better.

    EDIT: Stick shift transmission would be nice, but not required

  2. Steve, how did you do those great flush mounts??

    I feel like I will go insane if I don't know.

    EDIT: Never mind, I'm stupid... I just found the video.

    When cutting circles, do I need to take into account the width of the bit?

    And also: Where do I get GOOD mdf? The stuff at my local home depot has a curve in it from sitting on their stands. Or is there some way of straightening it out?

    And what is the type of saw you use, Steve? As in: What can I Google to find it?

  3. But if you inverted it in a Sealed box it wouldn't over heat. But i doubt it will sound to good sense it is designed for a ported box.

    Do you happen to know what makes a sub designed for a ported box vs a sealed one? Or is it just that the manufacturers are the only ones who know, and what they say goes?

    I'm not trying to contradict anyone, I would just like to know why, like in my last post.

  4. Hmmmm. Good questions when you're starting

    1) recommended size from a Manu. Pretty much means that their sub will perform well in that enclosure and shouldn't have issues of the sub being damaged as long as you're in their specs.

    2. Tuning. By tuning to say 20hz you would lose a lot of higher end output. By tuning to say 32 you still get good output from 30-45hz without a lot of loss between but a box still shines at it's tuning frequency of music.

    3. Glue. Only glue. Glue makes your box joints stronger there then the wood itself.

    4. Never sound deaden the inside of the box. Sound deaden all metal panels of your car though for best results. Any metal vibrating is a loss of sound pressure turned into rattle.

    5. Hola mi amigo welcome to the SMD forums where you can learn much from searching around for a few years to read it all ;)

    For the reccomended box size.... Then would I be fine going with the minimum box size for space? Or would I be sacraficing / gaining anything?

    And for box tuning, if I tune to 20, then I would lose my bass response at 60hz for example?

    5. Thanks!

  5. There are a few things that I don't understand when it comes to car audio

    1. I know there are reccomended cu.ft amounts of box volume for a subwoofer. What happens if I get a box on the smaller end of the reccomendations? What about on the higher end? Are there any pros / cons to each?

    2. I kind of know what a sub box port does... But what is to stop me from tuning to say... 20 hz? How about 50 hz? I know that most people tune in the range of 30-35 hz, and that you get loudness by tuning high, and sq by tuning low... But why not tune REALLY low so my sub can hit any and all notes in a given song?

    3. Screws vs nails for a subwoofer box? and how do you guys get perfect 90 degree angles? I am having trouble getting it to glue, and stay at 90 degrees while the glue sets...

    4. Is sound deadening on the inside of the box worth it? And if so, what is the best to use? I have heard of folks using rubberized spray.

    5. Hi everybody!

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