ChrisGLE

I plan on getting my windows tinted 20%. I live in VA, where the law is 35/50, but I'm getting a prescription for the 20%. My car's factory tint meters like at 85ish%, so what do I need to put on to achieve no lower than 20%?

My first system... pretty good I think http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4BxEf8h13U

Hey guys I'm hoping to post my first build and first system ever.I have bought everything and plan to install in the next few days. . Subs: 2 Alpine SWR-1223D RMS Power Handling: 600 Watts Peak Power Handling: 1800 Watts Amp:Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D D-Class Mono Block RMS Power Rating (@ 14.4V): 4 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 1200 watts x 1 chan. 1 ohm: 1700 watts x 1 chan CEA-2006 compliant amplifier Box: Dual 12in Ported Box Will get actual specs later. Amp Kit: Should be here soon! I've heard that it's not good to mount your amp on your box. What is your opinion? I don't really want to mount it to my seat.

Yea I love mine too... The stock sub hits decent too

haha true... btw its going in a 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE

Alright, Ill try and find a site to show me how to do it.

I think I have finally made a decision on my first system. Let me know what you think! Total System Cost(Approx): $550.00 Subs: Two Alpine SWR-1223D 12" Type R's (2ohm)http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-1223d/Specs $239.90 Peak Power 1800 watts RMS Power 600 watts Impedance: 2-ohm Sensitivity: 85dB Frequency Response: 23Hz-500H Amp:Audiopipe AP1800D 1800W Mono Power Amplifier (Going to be run a 2ohms) http://www.vminnovations.com/product_4486/Audiopipe_AP1800D_1800W_Mono_Power_Amplifier.html $193.95 1800 Watt RMS Power 750 Watt x 1 RMS @ 4 Ohms 1100 Watt x 1 RMS @ 2 Ohm 1800 Watt x 1 RMS @ 1 Ohm Box: Sonic Sub Box: 2SV12 (Yes I know it's not the best, but good enough for right now and has good reviews) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10911_Sonic-Sub-Box-2SV12-BLACK.html $39.99 3.4qft Amp Wiring: KCA 1/0 Power Amplifier Installation Kit (from knukonceptz)http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KCA-PK0 $59.99 17 Feet KCA 1/0 Ultra Flex Blue Power Wire 5 Feet KCA 1/0 Ultra Flex Black Ground Wire One FH-20 with Choice of Fuse size 4 1/0AWG ring terminals 6 feet Split Loom and wire ties

Alright I think I might eventually try that, but i'll probably run them a 2ohm for a while.

Ahh dang I forgot to say Im going to be running two Type R's. So I'd say if I ran it at 2ohms, they should be getting just around the right RMS.

Link to amp? If the sub is single 4 ohm, then it will only run on a 4 ohm load. http://www.vminnovations.com/product_4486/Audiopipe_AP1800D_1800W_Mono_Power_Amplifier.html 750 Watt x 1 RMS @ 4 Ohms 1100 Watt x 1 RMS @ 2 Ohm 1800 Watt x 1 RMS @ 1 Ohm

Just wondering if I could run my amp a 2ohms on an Alpine Type R 4ohm version. Or am I better off with the 2ohm version?

I have stock speakers. I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE which has the Bose System in it.

i just actually made a post about this amp haha. yeah its an awesome amp. lightyears better than my old hifonics bx1605d. been shown to output the power audiopipe says it can. Yea it has a great price too... If it was you would you get the Brutus or the Audiopipe?

4-5cuft would be good. tuned to ~32hz if you listen to rap music. alright... i saw on your signature that you have a Audiopipe AP15001D on the toyota. Are you happy with it?

yea i plan on getting either a xs power battery or a yellowtop... ill probably use my battery i have now for a little while

dang I cant believe I forgot that... to be honest I haven't even considered a box yet.. but I've been told ported would be the best way to go

Haha I knew you guys would say that about the cap... But I'm using a Sony CDX-GT640UI which I really like

Hey guys I'm getting my first system and would like to get some input on it. Subs: 2 ALPINE SWR-1243D Peak Power 1800 watts RMS Power 600 watts Impedance: 4-ohm Sensitivity: 85dB Frequency Response: 23Hz-500Hz Amp: Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D Super Digital Class-D Monoblock Amplifier RMS Power at 1ohm: 1700RMS x 1 RMS Power at 2ohms: 1200RMS x 1 RMS Power at 4ohms: 600RMS x 1 Stable at 1ohm, 2ohm, and 4ohm Bass EQ with 45Hz Bass Boost Extra: I know I'll get criticism for this, but I'm just trying stuff out. New Cadence FXC4D 4 Farad Car Capacitor DB Link XK0B1 0 gauge complete wire kit or The InstallBay AK01 0 Gauge Dual Amplifier Installation Kit I've got a 110amp Alternator(Replaced my Stock), Autocraft Gold Battery 24F-6, it has 700 CCA, 875 Cranking Amps, and 130 Reserve Capacity. This is pretty much equivalent to the Optima Yellowtop D34. Let me know what you think, remember it's my first system!

Alright guys I've gotten some information and here is what I'm thinking about getting:(Please let me know if you think I should change any of what I have) Subs: 2 Alpine SWR-1243D (12" 4 Ohm) Peak: 1800 watts RMS: 300-600 watts Amp: Alpine MRP-M1000 ($220) mono subwoofer car amplifier 600 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms) variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave) variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 50 Hz) subsonic filter (15 Hz, 24 dB/octave) Class D amp with MOSFET power supply OR Hifonics BRZ1700 ($240) Brutus Series Monoblock Class D Car Amplifier RMS Power Rating (@ 14.4V): 4 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 1200 watts x 1 chan. 1 ohm: 1700 watts x 1 chan. MOSFET power supply Wired HFR-3 remote bass level control included LED power (green) and protect (red) indicators Variable Bass Boost (0 to +10 dB bass boost at 45 Hz) Mono channel operation AMP Kit: The InstallBay AK01 0 Gauge Dual Amplifier Installation Kit ( I know its for two amps, but it's a good price) Battery: Alright after looking at my battery which is a Autocraft Gold Battery 24F-6, I found that it has 700 CCA, 875 Cranking Amps, and 130 Reserve Capacity. This is pretty much equivalent to the Optima Yellowtop D34. Do you think this will be an ok battery? Please let me know what you think.

Just a quick question, How big of a difference will using either the 2ohm or 4ohm be? It's only a $1.00 difference where I'm getting them.

I believe I found a monoblock and is the same model(1500w) as the guy posted previously what you think?Audiopipe AP15001D 1500W Mono D Amplifier RMS Power: 600 x 1 RMS @ 4 Ohm 950 x 1 RMS @ 2 Ohm 1500 x 1 RMS @ 1 Ohm In Line Fuse Included 1 Ohm load stable Built In Variable 12 dB/ Octave Crossover Bass Boost 0-12dB MOSFET Power Supply 3 Way Protection Overload protection Overheat protection Variable low pass electronic crossover Variable subsonic filter. Built-in variable phase shift. Distortions: <0.2% thd Signal to noise ratio: 70db Input level: 0.2-5v Bass boost frequency: 30-80hz Low pass filter: 40-180hz Subsonic filter: 5-50hz Frequency response: 8-180hz

Thanks I'll make sure to keep one of those in mind.

Alright, Do you know if they are a reliable brand?

Hey guys I've found Steve on YouTube around 6 months ago and since then has inspired me to explore car audio. I've started getting more into it since I just got my licence. I've fortunate enough to get a 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE from a family friend who just purchased a car and was generous to let me have their old Maxima for my birthday. It may not be top of the line but I like it. It's actually funny I had it for about a month and then the alternator,radiator,and power steering pressure hose went bad. But now they have been replaced along with the starter. Anyway back to some BASS. Right now I still have the stock Bose speakers along with my aftermarket Sony CDX-GT640UI head unit. I love the head unit and can't understand why people talk so bad about Sony. The way I look at it, Steve used to use Sony, so Sony is good haha. The Bose speakers in my opinion sound great and I'm shocked how hard the stock sub hits. I think it's an 8" but I'm not positive and it also has it's stock amp next to it. Alright so here's where I need your help, I want to start off with 2 12" Alpine SWR-1223D - 2ohm which I'll be getting for Christmas. I actually chose these after seeing my friends setup ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19Ovh7NvLu4 if you want to check it out, or I'll leave what he has at the bottom). Here are a few questions I have: 1) What type of amp should I get? I know what I'm about to say is going to cause alot of negative comments, but since its my first system I want to spend max $300 (I've listed a possible one in question 4) on an amp for right now. As I get more experienced and interested I'll upgrade. 2) A question that's probably asked a million times but, Is it worth getting a capacitor. If so how many farads? Remember I have a stock alternator which is giving about 110amps and I have a stock battery(There might be a chance of me getting a yellow top) 3) Will what I have (alternator, battery) provide enough for the subs? 4) I have done some research already and have gotten a few suggestions. I've been suggested to get a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D, and that my alternator and battery should be fine. However they did suggest a "BIG 3" upgrade. What do you think about these suggestions? Also, if you have any suggestions or have questions please feel free to leave them! And remember guys this is my first system so please no negative comments if possible. I would like to thank Steve for being such a great inspiration! Thanks again! My specs again: 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE 110amp Alternator Normal Battery Sony CDX-GT640UI Stock Bose Speakers What my friend has if interested(aka one of my influences): Alpine IDA-X305s Alpine mrp 2000 watt amp 2 Alpine type r 12 Q-Logic ported box Optima Yellow-Top