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Posts posted by RooTxBeeR
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I would think that if you read your deck and it red lights at say 35 with the sub level at zero then logic is telling me that for every +1 on the sub level will equal a -1 on the base setting so sub level +5 = red light at 30 instead of 35, I just got my DD-1 today but its way to hot out to go check my Sony HU.
nah, don't work like that
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I suggest setting it with that knob 100%, if I am not mistaken, that is a gain knob. So where ever the gain is set to, that knob acts as a 100% to that mark you set. So if you set the gain with it at 75%, then go to 100%. You are going past the point of distortion you set and are/can induce distortion. Just the way I do it though.
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both my alpines at +15 with a -10 track
Riskayyy lol
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Thanks guys. I set my sub amp with the subwoofer level on the HU set at 0. I used track 4 on disc A for maximum sound quality. The sub doesn't sound the best until it is in the volume range of 30-34, with 34 being the max undistorted volume on the HU. I will try again with the subwoofer level on the HU set at its max of +15 and see what the difference is. Also, when I set the gains on my 4 channel full range amp, (which i am using the HP filters on), i set the gain with the filter switch set to off. Is this the correct filter setting when setting the gain on the 4 channel amp, even though I am using it on the HP setting?
Any time you set something with the DD-1 or use the DD-1 to read a signal. You want all filters to either be at their farthest range away if they can't be turned off. But always turn them off if that is a possibility. When you have a filter on, it may hinder the DD-1 ability to detect distortion at what ever frequency range you are trying to read.
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When ever I have, I max that out. That increases the output voltage of the sub RCA, making it easier for your amp to match the voltages.
Edit: You can try which ever you want, I believe what I typed ^^^ is right.
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Oh gawd, I remember I took these 2 12" kenwood towers and bridged them with 2 10" jbls in the back of my civic. Sounded like pure doo doo but was funnier than hell.
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Yeah I don't see how just adding 2-3 more batteries will make it more safe to run at .5. Which when your bass hits, the first thing to get pull on it is your alt. For the price of 2-3 G31's, you can get 1-2 bad ass alts that could power that ns-1 by themselves lol.
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Got my lc6i today, installed it and static noise it gone.
Volume knob is on max with no distortion. and the distortion in speaker is gone sounds much cleaner now too.
only thing I noticed is when I first tried to set it up with DD-1, it was doing the same exact thing, distortion with gain at min. But then randomly went away.
It was just trolling you, it seen you made this post and was like, "yeah, I'm going to fuck with him" lmfao. For real though, glad to see it's working. Now I have something to suggest people who want to keep getting those $15 LOC's that can't be DD-1'd. I had a buddy before cry about how he lost where his gain was set because I couldn't tune his amp because the LOC made it distort at all levels.
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That is a great explanation, I was too high to do that shit.
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The XP is specifically made for reserve and should never be used as a starting battery. I don't know how exactly the technology works. But the D series should be used as a starting battery, where as XP should only be used a secondary reserve battery.
That's what i figured. I've just seen alot of people with d batteries in the back. Do you think I should remove the d975 or just add the xp3000 to it?
You are more than fine at using a D series as a secondary or for more reserve, just only use a D series for a starting battery, that is all. It's just if all you need is reserve power, for the price the XP line is cheaper.
Edit: The other reason you see a lot of people running banks of D series, mainly older builds. They where built before XS power came out with the XP line so they had already bought and built their set ups with what was only available at the time.
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The XP is specifically made for reserve and should never be used as a starting battery. I don't know how exactly the technology works. But the D series should be used as a starting battery, where as XP should only be used a secondary reserve battery.
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^^ Lmao no where near the same
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Damn son. Well over half the power at over double the resistance increase. Very nice!
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Il contest to that "Class A/B (Better sound quality than Class D)"
And i work at Wal-Mart and tbh i won't even buy there electronics! lol
Contesting against Tony D'Amore. Kek
If I had the money for one of these bad boys, fuck yeah! Didn't know they had resonators in it though, very interesting.
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aww man, im on xbox 360 and forza 4. lol
Yeah project cars is a PC race sim. I am waiting for a steering wheel before I delve into that game.
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Going bawlz deep man. I like it.
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I bought then game, then realized they had the 4 pack. Then bought the 4 pack. I play on one guy while another crafts and farms wood when I can. They just did a update today and my server did a full wipe of everything. Nice fresh start.
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I played this a bit at my friends house on his computer and I can see how it could get addicting.
It can get pretty disheartening though, loose a base. It can really suck. Makes you stop playing for a day or two lol
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Some basic gameplay and raiding
Huge clan raid
Battle Royale Mod
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So I found a new PC game. I know you Gunnem PMed me a bit ago about my absence. I am absolutely in love with this game. Have around 200+ hours in already and have been playing it non stop. The game is called Rust. It is a survival based game like DayZ, but way better. You have to farm everything to make anything in game. And I mean anything, weapons, ammo, buildings, clothing, and even the items you use to farm with. It is online only, and fully pvp based. The main point of the game is to get a base established, and raid other peoples bases. While they are online, or offline. The game is still in Alpha. But from any Alpha game I have played. This Dev team does updates weekly, and takes everything in from the community that supports it. Which I have never seen done to this extent. Also to those that are familiar with the old Source games, and Garry's Mod. The main dev for this is the one and only. Garry Newman, the creator of Garry's Mod.
The thing I love with this game, is because it is online, and everything must be farmed. And the fact it's open to modding. Anything can be done. If all you want to do is build cool looking bases, and destroy them and blow them up. You can. If you want to hunt noobs and make their lives miserable. You can. If you want to get extremist and join a clan to have clan wars on servers with 40+ people fighting over a base or village at once. You can. They even have a Battle Royale mod, which is basically a 120 player capped 1 round hardcore deathmatch. Usually lasts around 10-25 minutes. Really cool. Just youtube the game if you guys want to see stuff. There is so much on youtube about everything, gameplay, PVP, killing noobs. Making art and treehouses, lol you name it.
Here is the game.
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I don't think so. That's why I stay away from those brands. Why buy a product that the company lies about. Just be honest, people still buy it when you lie. Imagine how much better they'd feel if you where honest from the start.
Edit: To respond to the 2nd post. That's why I dont go to them, was a noob and found out the truth. Now I go with companies that do more than rated and run like butter down a hot knife lol
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Depending on the size of the stock alt you might be fine with stock. What size alternator and battery are stock?
What's a proper amperage alt to run this with a single battery up front?
If your stock alt is over 100 amps and you do the big three you would probably be fine. If you're dropping a little low upgrade your stock battery to the biggest XS battery possible.
If your stock alternator is tiny it might just be better to get a 150a-175a alternator from Mechman or Singer.
Stock 90a alt. VW makes a 120a one for their VR6 engines that are compatible, simple swap onto the 1.8t engine currently in the vehicle. XS calls for the D4700 I can fit in the vehicle under the hood.
Check out and see how much that other one VW makes. Usually manufacturer ones are very expensive.
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Depending on the size of the stock alt you might be fine with stock. What size alternator and battery are stock?
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No way man, for real?
Listen to this guy, you will blow your amps and sub.Na man you'll be fine, wire that bitch down to 1 ohm and turn the gain all the way up, not recommended for competitions, but for daily, turn that shit to the max volume...
I really hope you're trolling.
Charging rear battery bank
in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
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Holly shiet, you bought one of those? $$$$!!! Yeah I would want to know that too if I bought one of those lol.