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Everything posted by RooTxBeeR

  1. I fried it. Yeah why I'm here. Sent a few emails stating a month ago and nothing back yet
  2. I freaked out when I saw this earlier. I hope that all the user map settings maps will be brought back too. Income defense, tower defense, dbz sagas.
  3. I ordered one through sonic and was refunded a month later saying they had no expectancy of when they will be getting more.
  4. I have no idea why the colors changed. I do however see a mistake in your set up. Turn that bass boost all the way down, and never use that again, even if your life depended on it. As well, set the gain properly, try to find someone local with a DD-1 or an O scope, if not, use the DMM method and set it conservatively just in case. If not, you will continue to have sub problems.
  5. Yeah just make sure that it is tuned properly regardless. Going under 12v is risky, especially if you are going under 12v because of the lack of power to supply the demand.
  6. Your wiring is up to bar, you have stock alt as well? If that is the case you don't have enough power to feed it fully. Get that alternator changed out and you won't have anything to worry about. Until then though just try not to go under 12v volts.
  7. How does you wiring look? And what batteries are you running?
  8. When i say "simple", i say that because i didn't go full loop on the liquid cooling again (YET). The last one really held me back when it was "upgrade" time. When the cards are on air, they are so easy! When they have hoses coming off them and water blocks bolted to them (and bolted together), it becomes a bitch. I have been wanting new cards since the 980's were out. I do want to run another custom loop because there is no denying how cool your cards stay compared to air. Especially if you overclock everything like i do. But i want to wait for the next latest greatest to come out first. I want to enjoy an easy upgrade at least one more time before i lock myself in for life by hooking up hoses lol. As simple as it is, it really gets the job done lol...and i thought i would never give my baby away to anyone. It was my pride and joy. It is now Antheny's. Team badass #hammydown ftw. That makes a lot more sense now lmao. I had plans on throwing some water into my set up but never did. If I ever where to have to swap them out, you go it right, would be very easy when they are on air.
  9. Of coarse, since he was told he was not an enthusiast pc builder he did it like everyone else does it It's like when I have friends come over and they see my PC they are all like WOOOOOW and there I am like, it's OK lol
  10. Ive already got a XS power battery and have the Big 4 with 1/0 wire, so I think it can take it. You should have no problem then running that. Those subs will be begging for more though. How did everyone figure out that .66. I have only ever used 12volt and could never find anything I would understand for formulas to figure out how to do what ever configuration I wanted.
  11. And .67 ohms. You forgot to math before you spoke. Isn't series/parallel the way to get the lowest with dual 4's? Which would be 2.67. I didn't do math, used a website, cry more or be butthurt somewhere else.
  12. Only problem is, is that you would be starving them for power. 3 dual 4 ohm subs can only be wired to 2.67 and 6 ohms. You will barely have enough power for 1 sub let alone 3. An scv3k runs 1500 at 2 ohms and you would be just over that, then throw some rise in there and yeah. Somewhere between 1k-1.5k give or take. I was going to be running a very similar setup, 3 x 12's with a same sized alt and 4 xs power xp3k's. Debating on Dual 1 ohms to wire to .67 or Dual 2's to run at 1.34. I think thinking of staying on the safe side since to power them suffieciently I don't think a 280a alt can do 4k-6k watts at below 1 ohm. So I am in the search of an amp or amps to get me at least 5k near 2 ohm.
  13. That is a bummer man. I hope there is no significant difference. I would definitely get in touch with Sonic and ask them why that happened. Edit: They even have things listed as each different type of revision as well.
  14. Did you buy then as a new pair? Separately? How did you come about getting a hold of these?
  15. Your best bet is to buy a PAC-LC1. They are the same price as any companies bass knob for their amp so that's a plus. The best part, even when a gain is at it's lowest point, there is still some voltage going through. A PAC-LC1 adjusts the signal from 0%-100%. So with it you can actually have 0 sound coming out of your subs.
  16. Yes, there will be differences, or at least should. In the different forms of signal transfer. Which ever you use to play your music the most, tune through that method of signal transfer. I tuned with my aux cable, now I am using bluetooth, everything seems to be a tad louder, as well I can smell my subs every so often now, so I will be retuning with bluetooth.
  17. They are 2 different drivers that take similar power. You want to be as loud as possible, get the z. You want to sound great and hit a good bandwidth get the x. Hey a good design which ever you go with.
  18. Then yeah if you can get a pair of 12 for that price shipped you should notice a difference. You though about ported? You can get good bandwidth with a port.
  19. How much are you looking to spend on this upgrade? Are you going to sell the old 10's or old on to them? Also are you looking to get new or used?
  20. Everything the same, even model of subs, only difference being cone size going for 10 to 12. There will be a slight gain, and on that low of power you should notice a slight difference, not a bunch. If you had a bunch of power and made that small of a difference, the notice would be much less noticeable.
  21. I am not familiar with what box sizes they like. But I do now, EVERY 4th orders best tuning, is at the resonant frequency of the sealed enclosure. You can use a SMD IMSG to find it, a Dayton Audio DATS. But what ever the sealed sections resonant frequency is, that is the best tuning for the ported section.
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