RooTxBeeR
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Posts posted by RooTxBeeR
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I don't know if it was when you posted it, but they are currently sold out.
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You could answer if the amp would die and can handle that low of a load
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Well, the best is to have all your current draw be provided by your alt. That would be ideal. But, due to either high power applications or small engine bays, we can only get up to so much.
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Not to beat a dead horse, but is the rca able to be unscrewed to solder directly at the fitting
Yes, and that is what I did. When I opened it I shrink wrapped the positive so it's fully covered. Then I resoldered the negative to it's original location.
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who needs reading?
Not you, that's who lmfao.
Pics for those that are curious
So what I did to fix it was, in the 2nd pic you can see the wire is bare for the pos lead. I cut a few inches off that end and put shrink wrap all the way down to the base where it's soldered on. Then for the neg, I pulled some sleeve off, then just soldered it to the same spot it was on before, again, shrink wrapping all the way to the end of it to make sure nothing is exposed.
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im just going to say get a battery before buying a harness.
Was in the first post. Brand new one in.
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The thing is, I used it twice in 2 weeks, and this incident happened in-between. This is the on variable to change between tuning 2 weeks ago and tuning last night. And the way it worked last, I've never seen before.Ya post the pic. I think you might be over complicating this! Harness arching? The harness doesn't send out voltage, it reads it. Thus it can't arch.im 98% sure if that, I'm not a certified electrician but I am a professional Puerto Rican
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So I had set the gains on my buddies m4 2 weeks ago. Go to reset last week and my wires ripped out of the harness so I resolderd them. Now when I go to set the gain it's no where near were it was before. The main thing I noticed now, the gain light will flash now, and as you turn the gain up the flashing gets faster until solid. Brand new battery. Could the harness arcing have caused internal damage?
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This guy, thanks a bunch!!! I actually just realized I can open up this RCA end. I am going to try and resolder it all. If all else fails I will grab one of these. Thank you very much dude.
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I stopped at a few radio shacks and neither of them anything that could help me with what I am looking for. Anyone know of anything online that I could buy to do what I am trying to do. Was thinking about heading over to fry's, but I am the opportunity to finally do the + wire from my alt to battery right now and wan't to do that instead. I am in no super big rush to fix this so I can wait for a shipment. Tony D. and Steve M., you guy's have a extra set I can buy from you guys?
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Looks like you (somebody) pulled the wire to unplug it instead of grasping the rca body.
I pull it taught, then wrap around the device. Only thing I can figure to do that. I am the only one to ever handle it since I got it, and it wasn't like that when I got it.
You can get RCA connectors from radio shack.
That's what I was thinking
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So I was using my DD-1 and every time I would put the + lead to the speaker terminal, the amp would protect. Couldn't figure it out, said what ever, will think about it. As my buddy looked at it, he noticed the wires, right where they come out from the top of the rca jack thingy mabob(lol). The wires where sticking out and frayed. I learned my lesson on how I store my tools from this, my question is now. Can I just go to radioshack and buy one of the connectors with a + and - lead coming out and just resolder, or do I need to get a new specific, proprietary lead made specifically for the DD-1.
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The manual says car off as well. My manual does
I have the pdf on my phone, and I don't see that anywhere in it
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Turned the hpf...?
I had the gain on the wrong side when I started, so I was going from full tilt to nothing. Realized that, reset, and BAM. Got air moving.
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Not in a long time, but I went full retarded. has the Gain on the opposite side. Re checked max volume and everything and we are good. 31 in new max, tuned amp at 0db right now and it's not much at all. Can't wait to tune it to -7.5 and seal the trunk, should really shine after that.
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So we tested the head unit through the amp, got 17 to be max we can go to without distortion. I go and change the tone to a -5 to start tuning the amp, the 40hz detect comes on. I keep rolling the gain higher and higher, the distortion light flickers light I know it does. But, I get all the way to the end of the gain, no distortion light to be constant, and the 40hz detect fades away so then nothing is lit up. Have no idea what to do here. I have had issues in the past with my DD-1 only with lower quality amps and having LOC's, but what gives?
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Thanks for all the replies guys, I have a new issue I am making a topic about if anyone cares to read and try to help me out.
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car off.
but you van do a google search and put "SMD" in quotes to do better searches
edit
like this
I actually never thought about that. I really appreciate that tip on searching, thank you.
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So I looked and searched, and the search doesn't allow words less than 3 characters or less, so searching can be hard sometimes. But I thought I remember tuning with the car off, said by Tony D himself. Is that right?
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Double check with sundown. I know a bass knob from one company won't work with another company.
Yes it will, I used a knob from my nendo 1100.4 on an ab vfl 100.1
Then you got lucky, Not all will. Give it a test, at low volume. I had used a AQ knob on a MB quart, the instant it plugged in my sub went full tilt. So please, don't suggest this.
lol factory bass knob
look where you plug the knob in to see if the pins match the wire you have
if they match youre good to go!
Not necessariliy, I tried AQ to MB Quart, same everything. Once I plugged it in it went full tilt with no knob control.
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Double check with sundown. I know a bass knob from one company won't work with another company.
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I think he just means the doors (4) and then the sub (1), leaving the dash miss/tweets on the HU. Get a five channel.
That's what else I was thinking, just trying to clarify haha. Yeah I would suggest at minimum a 5 channel, and at max dedicated amps, one for sub stage, and the other for doors and dash.
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Wait, you're talking about running 6+ speakers on 4 channels? While mixing the channels with subs and door speakers?
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I have, well had an SA12 on an SAE-1000d. It started on fire anytime it'd get power and then my inline fuses would pop. Not sure if it was from excessive vibration or running it at lower voltage. Either way It'll pound that sub.
Don't mount the amp to the box and make sure your voltages are above 12.4 and that'll be a good amp.
probably low voltage. SA amps some good protection circuitry.
Edit: Also TrunkMuzik. the way it usually works. If you are running more than RMS power, you go with a smaller size of the box. If you have less than RMS. You go for the bigger size box.
strapped SCV-1500's
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
Posted
Listen to this guy, you will blow your amps and sub.