RooTxBeeR
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Posts posted by RooTxBeeR
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My enclousure is going to be sealed, and for the rest of what you said I don't know what any of that is.
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Yeah pretty much, I have 2 10" JBL GT4000d, rms is 120 watts and they are hooked up to a 4 channel bridged to 2, 600 watt amp. Shit hits what the sub can hit obviously, but the notes that it has a hard time hitting sound horrible and some sound damaging, wanted to know if theres something or someway I can do something about the lows since I don't have a subsonic filter.
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I remember going through the internet and finding something that acted as a subsonic filter in a way, I think you would connect it to the speaker wire, and it would cancel out what ever Hz that item was for. I am looking for something like this because I have a amp for my 2 subs that doesn't have a subsonic filter and I really hate listening to music that has notes I can reproduce, and on top of that, I have many songs that wang really hard but also has low notes that will destroy my sub if I wang the song. Anyone know of what I am talking about, I remember seeing them and they were pretty cheap only a few $ or so a piece. If there's another solution for something to work as a subsonic filter that would be awesome because I have my subs pretty close to peak power so slammen in and a low note hits, my subs are done.
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I won't have a problem getting batterys, I am getting the money all at once for everything so it's going to have to wait anyways. I am going to be running a single FI-Q 15, with all RF highs mids and 6x9's
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K well for me, I have a stock alternator, the battery is not stock but not amazing, probably just some normal car battery from autozone or something. I am going to be running a RF T400-4 for sure, and either a T1000-bd or a T1500-bd.
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I would also like to know, because I am going to be getting about a 2k Watt system for a honda civic running off stock battery and alternator. Was wondering if I should cough up something for something else.
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Guess he needs another amp?
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Is your box ported? Maybe a rat got inside.
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Bump!
Edit: Now that I have speakers, forgot about this. I have a 91 civic hatchback, any thought on which direction to face the sub, I have seen in pretty much all set ups, with a open cabin (meaning where the subs are exposed to the cabin) that people face the subs up. Currently with my 2 10's I have them facing the rear, any ideas.
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I am going to get the T400-4 for sure, and will most likely get the T1000-1bd or T1500-1bd, all depends on how much money I have at the time when I buy everything from RF.
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Looks like now I have my selection of speakers and amps. Still anyone know if with those two amps if I should get a extra battery just for them or if I should just get a really good battery and just replace my car battery.
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I was most likely going to get a fully loaded Q, just because it would be better than a stock. I am also most likely going to be running this in a sealed box because from some self research I have found that the Q for SQ would sound better in a sealed box, over loudness in a ported box. Still wondering on Battery and ALternator question. Also someone said about getting the T400-4 to run all my mids/highs instead of a P200-2 and a p400-2 for front/back, got a question on that, doesn't each speaker in the component set take the RMS per speaker, or is the RMS for both of them together. Because if I where to get the T400-4 then I would be running the 2 front channels with split power between the 2. Is that safe and fine to do?
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I can agree to the BL.
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aq1200
Oh, Dur I didn't really know what you meant for some reason, and wow, that is good $500 for 2 brand new.
Edit: Question, can anyone tell me what all the options in drop boxes are for these subs, I really don't know what any of them mean, or what they do for the subwoofer, except the few obvious like heat ring.
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Well I was thinking of that T400-4 but the MAX of the component set is 120, so I don't want to over do them, as for the Dual 2, no I meant if I should just get 2 P1000-d since it will be only around $100 more than a T1000-1bdCP and double the power, as for the FI-Q specs here they are.
DUAL 1 | DUAL 2
Fs: 32.4 Hz | 32.1 Hz
Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil
Qms: 8.52 | 8.61
Qes: .43 | .44
Qts: .41 | .42
Mms: 293g | 299g
Cms: 0.82mm/N | 0.82mm/N
Sd: 810cm^2 | 810cm^2
Vas: 75.6 l | 75.6 l
Spl: 89.6dB 1W/1m | 89.4dB 1W/1m
Bl: 13.9 N/A | 19.65 N/A
Xmax: 28mm
Rms: 1000W
Sealed box: 2-2.6 cuft
Ported box: 2.8-4 cuft @ 28-33Hz
Sub OD: 15.625”
Cut ID: 14.125”
Mounting depth: 8.500”
Displacement: 0.19cuft
Quick Edit: The RMS is 1000, but as I have seen from Steve himself that the Fi's can handle pretty much anything you put into them, and would like to put a bit more than that.
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Well while its decided which amps are "good", I have figured out what all the speakers I am going to get. Front Component, Rear 6x9's, and a FI-Q 15" Subwoofer. For powering those I will most likely go with the P200-2 for the front and the P400-2 for the rear, seeing as there are no amplifiers that meet the RMS of those speakers on prime. My next question is, I want at minimum 1000 Watts to the sub, thats at what ever ohms it will be, most likely 2 Ohms. I am willing to get the T1000-1bdCP for the Sub or maybe the T1500-1bdCP. If primes are good would it be better off to just get 2 R1000-1D's?
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I figured I would need some second skin or dynamate because I would be upgrading to a high powered subwoofer. Any thought about my 6x9 question, and do you mean the prime high as to the component set I was talking about or a Prime amp for the highs. Also It will only be 2-3 Amps at most, should I get another alternator, and about batteries just get a new one for inside the vehicle and put them all to it, or do you think if I get a good battery for my whole car it would run it all well.
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I was looking to get a whole new system, right now I just have a ok Kenwood system with 2 10" JBL's off of a MTX 2 channel amp. Kenwood head unit with 2 6.5 coaxials in the front and 2 kenwood 6x9's in the back. I want to get a completely new system, Yes price is a thing here but I am willing to spend some cash if it is really worth it. I did some digging around on the forum, and saw some people saying SQ is more than what most people realize. I am going to just put out what I had in mind of a set up, but if you think there is something that would replace what I had in mind, and in the price range of that object, please feel free to speak. First and formost, I have a 91 Civic Hatchback, so for bass, I don't need much to get my car moving, my 2 10's can get my roof rattling with only 200 watts to each. Here it goes.
Front: Was looking into RF 2 way component set Linky!
Rear: RF 6x9 Linky! For this thought I was wondering, the kenwood 6x9's I have, are of their High end line, if their really is one comparing it to high end speakers. They were $150 and these RF 6x9's are only $20 less, also would there be any difference if I were to get the 2way to 4 way.
Sub: Since I have a small car I don't need much. Was looking into a FI-Q 15".
Power: I was most likely going to get Prime or Punch series RF to RMS all my Mids and Highs. As for the Sub, I am stumbled if I should cough up the money for a nice RF Mono amp and rms at 1000 watts, or pay less for something like a power acoustic and put it 1500-2000 watts off one of them.
Please any thought and Ideas on how to make this set up good would help, and I am looking more into quality, looking for it to be bassy, but not have the bass overcome the highs and mids. And this is going to be a everyday use.
Replcaement for subsonic filter?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
I do say thanks for showing me that but damn, that site is really badly made lol. On top of that I have no idea on how to properly find out what ones I need and how to connect them in the right order to get what I am looking for.