Bakerman

Hey man...I have always used FatMat with limited problems. Yes, there has been some small pieces where teh foil slid off, but that is about the only issues I've ever had. No smell, ever! The adhesives never came off...even on vertical and upside down surfaces. Is it the best working product out there? By no means at all. But when I bulked up on mine, I was getting it for about $75 per 150sq/ft so naturally, I bought nearly 1000sq/ft of the stuff. EDIT: I will say this though. Once I'm out of this FatMat, I will be ordering me a good amount of second skin. Heck, if I could get a sample piece *hint hint* and see if I like it, I would probably go ahead and put in an order so I can lay it on my front door and roof. I've just heard so much good stuff about the Second Skin I would like to try it.

I personally hate kicker...they just come off to me as a way overated entry level company. But, from your pics, your build looks good. I'd like to actually hear it.

I personally wouldn't recomend b/c of the amp produces more factors that the HU can't. You could experience serious distortion or clipping from the HU. If that issue is fixed, then you have the possibilities of two completely different ranges of freq. from you HU/Amp and also two different volumes levels. And if your amp has a gain control knob, then that just makes it more difficult. IMO, I just say either A) sacrafice some power, or gain some power (according to your ohm load) and wire those drivers in w/ your amp, or get a bigger, or another amp.

I don't see why you couldn't...I wouldn't recomend it, just because volume levels might run astray, but you can. Uhh... what? lol In other words, the bass is gonna drown out those mid drivers.

I say put the ones you got in there...can't go wrong.

eh, kicker.

Really good stuff for the money is here. Its the cheap stuff, CCA, which I use. By the foot its about $2, but you can score cheaper buying it in like 25' and 50' sections.

Dude, you're not gonna get 40' of true 0gauge for $50-$75

BTW, you can learn ALOT by searching around on the internet yourself. This Site is a great place to start for learning car audio technicals. Just look around a bit, and if you have a question, we can show you where to find the answer, or help you if its not there. Most everyone on the forums knows that site already. BTW, so you guys don't have to click it, its BCAE1.com

^^^I was thinkin the same shit! I guess its not hard to surf forums, learn half of the shit you should, and throw it with the other half that you think you know.

Vids and Pics help out ALOT! Take vids of what the sub is doing, and take pics of what your gains and shit are set at. We will try to help you the best we can...as long as youre not an asshole and tell people on here they are wrong in what we are telling you.

Your gain is meant to match the output voltage of your headunit. On some amps, you will see on the gain it has 9v on the left, and ussually 1v or .5v on the right. If your HU has a preout voltage of 2v, which is the most common, then you will have your gain set closer to the top. But, if you have an expensive HU with say, 9v preouts, then you will barely have to turn the gain up to reach full output of he amp. If your gain is all the way up, then your amp has an input sensitivity of .5v, and your HU is most likely putting out 2v or 4v...which is bad. This will cause clipping like hell, which is bad bad bad for the woofer!

Thanks again...all subs appreciated. Not fishing here, just interested in people who actually watch the videos of people they are subbed to. Don't wanna sound desperate or anything, but since losing my channel I went from nearly 200 vids and subscribers to nothing, and its really aggravating.

Thanks guys. I tried to recover it, but I never actually used that account...it was a dormant one that for some reason my youtube happened to be linked to it. I always get my youtube email at my @yahoo.com domain, so i didn't realize it would do anything when I deleted the google account. Since it was dormant, when I tried to recover it, I didn't know any of the questions they were asking me, so google wouldn't reactivate it. So now I have to start over. But like I said, thanks for he subs, Ill definintely hit you back.

Okay, so I somehow accidentally deleted my google account last night. Well, apparently, I find out today that my Youtube is linked to my google account. So, I now have no youtube either. I tried to recover the google account, but it never worked. Please, go subscribe to my new channel by clicking my link >>>BakermanINC's Youtube. It would really help me out, as alot of you were subbed to my old one, as I was subbed to alot of ya'lls channels. Sub to me, and ill sub back. Thanks. BTW, this means I will have to re-upload all my vids, and then repost them on my build logs. Ugh, this is gonna take a while.

yes...get a 12v battery...

The batteries I am using have bolts as battery posts like the standard stinger, xs, kinetik, etc. audio battery. So all I would be doing is measuring the distance between the bolts, drilling the bar, and setting it down over the battery and using a nut to secure the bar to the batteries. Then on the end I will run a bolt through, and use ring terminals on the wire going to amp.

Not a bad price at all...comparible to the 1"x1" aluminum. You think copper that thin will conduct better than a thicker aluminum?

Oh...prolly did. Thats probably the thread I got the website off of that I can't remember anymore. Anyways, so you say .25" thickness will work fine?

I'm actually making a bus bar. I found a site called onlinemetals.com and they seem to have everything, but they just have so many choices of different thicknesses and etc. I just wanted to be sure of an ideal measurment. I was thinking 1" thick, but just wanted to make sure.

I've never posted about bus bars...

And also, one other thing. What is a good material and thickness to use for bus bars? I need 2 pieces about 3' long. I believe that copper, though it is the best, will be way to expensive for my budget. I know aluminum is the next way to go, but is it possible to use stainless? And what thickness do you guys normally use on the bars?