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Posts posted by BFF Larry
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U need money
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Thanks everyone for all the input,
Would the coil rub, only when pushed down lightly...I mean just barely, on the used sub affect anything.
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You do have the possibility that the former could have gotten bent just a little and could be rubbing the pole, or if the coil is starting to come unwound due to high heat from extreme clipping, that could cause the rubbing sound.
The bad rubbing is coming from the used sub, the one in the vid, but its really noticeable when pushed down lightly.
The newer sub only makes rubbing noise when pushed down a fraction off dead center.
Should I recone the used one, the red dustcap one, and leave the newer one alone?
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TThanks everyone for replying!
I was reading through the comments,
Tomoro ill check the resistence once again after I touch the ends together.
On the used sub, I get coil rub when I barely press down dead center...
But once I press really hard I won't get it till it cone back to the "rest" point.
On the new sub, I don't get rub if I press down dead center, but if I move slightly off the center, I mean just a fraction, I get rub.
I accidentally broke the dustcap of the old red dc sub while pushing down in the center.
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When I lift up on the used sub, it rubs alittle.
And I'm running one SD8K @ 1 ohm.
Do you think the newer sub is blown if it rubs only from the side kinda in the center?
Not dead center but kinda off the center...
It'd hard to explain
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Big 3 And 0/1 or 1/0 throughout
Budget amp?
One extra batt,
Then alt.
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Well, I have pretty bad luck.
I think I have coil rub in my New level 5.
I push down dead center and I get no rub, but if I move just a fraction of a centimeter, I can feel/ hear rub...
Subs are D1.
Both coils read 1.0 - 1.1, but changes once in a while.
On my other sub I think I blew has some coil rub only when you push lightly in the middle, has both coils reading 1.0 - 1.1
The funny thing is that it doesn't have any coil rub when pushing down evenly on the sides but has some rub periodically.
Im SOL right now.
Its hard to tell if the subs are in need of a recone or am I just imagining things.
I have a vid of the used sub and trying to diagnose it.
Help me please SMD.
Vid of used sub, not the new one.
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ok so 2 w7s and 8 amps 1 per coil where are the other 4 amps lol thats 8000 watts just sitting there.
Strapped
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That's means they were strapped and one to each coil
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Dang those look nice but I was wondering if anyone here had some for sale.
Thanks flwater
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Time to watch your vehicle closely.
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Hey SMD,
I'm looking for inline fuse holders plus ANL fuses. (rated 250-300)
the inline fuses can be either the bolt down or screwed down types.
i need only 2 but if anyone has more, i am willing to purchase the excess.
Thanks in advance,
Larry
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I'd offer him 350 and see if he bites it. The AQ is WAY better than your 2500.
^^^
i had a friend pick a AQ3500 for 250 from dude off Craigslist
but the AQ is underrated, can be dropped below 1 ohm, and can take a beating
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I know they are pretty good woofers,
I've owned 1 13.5.
But I wouldnt put over 1k to it.
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I don't think w7's will last with that kind of power...
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Good luck trying to power each sub with 1.5k...
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Any torrent apps opened?
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Haha Chris,
But go with the rf t2's... I wish I did instead...
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look in the for sale section for amps or on ebay.
you can probably get a Crescendo 2k used for alittle more than you have.
those amps are amazing
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they usually take a while to drop after it reaches 13 volts resting
I charged it again for 4 hours, it was charging for 3 hours then was complete and went into maintenance mode for like an hour. Now it's resting at 13. Thanks so much for everyone easing my concerns. My D3400 just arrived and its on charge now.I probably wont have it in the car for another week because I still have to install my amps, build speaker baffles and tweeter spheres, and build the sub enclosure. Would it hurt to charge the D3400(supplemental battery) now, and then again right before I install it just to be on the safe side? This is my first time running dual batteries and I have a slight case of OCD and want to do everything right. Thanks everyone.
yea, go ahead and charge the batt.
cant do any harm.
it would be a + to charge it now and before you install
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ap 3000, pretty reliable if you dont drop them below 1 ohm bridged
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I am getting ready to build a daily driver/competition system on a pretty tight budget. I'm thinking of going with a Rockford fosgate T1500 bdcp , 1 DC audio L4 dvc 15 , Stinger 5 farad cap. I have not done any electrical upgrades yet. What do you guys think of this setup is it worthy or should I do something different.
I would do something different with the amp and instead of a cap I would rather have a battery.
you can get a crescendo bc2000D for 340 shipped that is a couple hundred cheaper than the Rockford. That would allow you to do a battery instead of a cap or savings towards a H/O alt.
i would take his advice, save money by using Crescendo, AQ, Ap, or anything not RF.
i know their amps are amazing but for the price of the amp only being 1500-2000 rms, which you probably wont see after rise, you can get a higher rated amp, especially Crescendo, that ll more and then some.
also, look in the for-sale section for some good deals!
How much power do i NEED
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Posted
Well a wall, or bandpass.
Lots of electrical upgrades.
H/o alt or alts..
Configure a way to place multiple batts plus amps in hatch area.
And lots of experience because 9k to each lvl 5 is a lot of power