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Posts posted by uhoh_45
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weight on it or something like that could have snapped it or a shitty old rca could have been problem
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ah perfect i really appreciate the help there hobby
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if your walling it and plan on getting loud i suggest you put in a stripper pole and some beefed up roof supports or your going be ripping the roof/windshields going be popping
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I use one of these all the time to cut furnace openings. Just put it on the front of a cordless drill. Whats nice is you can angle the drill and rotate it from side to side. Im mostly cutting 22g with these. The metal in those decks cant be much thicker than that.
so your saying 17 gauge is pretty thick??
i measured a piece of C channel i use at work which happens to be 17 gauge and i can cut it no problem with bull nose snips and my knee which isnt 90 psi so i im hoping this works
i'll keep thread updated when progress progresses
and sanitary with your blowthrough you didnt have worry bout your back win screen and sparks
where as i gotta cut like 2" from winshield so im kinda scurred... + i want it to be as clean as possible and straight as possible as i dont want sharp edges
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for the humps i have my bull nose snips and other tin snips (im a fireproofer by trade and have alot of tin snips
hmm buddy has a sawzal i think i could borrow
i thought of that earlier but figured snips would work
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i only need to cut an inch and a half off each side and then straight back and across (taking rear deck out completely)
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i was going to pm you just went out to garage to see how thick 17 gauge was with the caliper haha
as for the plasma i want to go with the least amount of sparks as we'll be doing this in the car
as for the sheers - i've used my hand snips to cut the rear deck before it worked but took lots out of you to do it so i'd imagine the sheers would make miens meat out of it haha
i just want the cleanest finish out of this when done
i'll look for some pics of what i need to cut
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thanks i'll send him a pm
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was wondering if there was any sheet metal workers here or anyone that uses air sheers regularly
i'm looking to see if this base model is up to cutting the metal of the rear deck near trunk
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that shits pretty sweet man
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basshead your sig is stupid and pointless without stating the vehicle haha
and dd subs get loud off low power Mhmmm
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i noticed your thread earlier on the 2 15s home theater.... before you go out and buy speakers figure out if you can even put them in anything
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where do you plan on putting these subs... in what vehicle or ....?
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found the site i was looking at before
this is actually the site i found that on but it isnt working for me with the pictures
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make sure NOT to mount them to the box or they will shake to shit
happened to 2 of mine (and yes the box was built solid with 2x4s mounting to the box and to the amps)
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Do you mean electrically controlled or just compressed gas?
compressed gas
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so i've been wanting to replace the springs in the trunk with actuators
i seen this a while ago on the net and cant find it again.... i already got the actuators and base idea of what to do i just want to see what others here have done or have seen
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goodluck with those shopping cart wheels other than the weld between the bike and cart thats going to be the weak spot
im beefing up the area where bike and cart meet so should be solid n good
as for those cart tires i plan on getting rid of them and using bike tires
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what are your specs? for your wall and some final pics would be nice
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aero port questions
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
i'm building a new box for my apx 18 and dont know shit all bout aeros
i have 8.5 cubes to work with before all displacement i was wondering what size aero would be best and how many to use
i was thinking single 6 or 8" aero but once again dont know shit all bout aeros