uhoh_45
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Posts posted by uhoh_45
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thank you ^, lol
maybe hes implying he doesnt know if he has the correct voicecoil configuration to run the amp correctly.
no it sounds more like my neighbor has the same amp i want something else sorta deal
and assuming the guy down the street has 2 duel 2 ohm subs he can still wire it to 2 ohms
so i dont see why you havent been a good neighbor and went over there showed him the correct way to wire it and get some hands on exp with the amp
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Alright, the only thing is theres someone around me already running one but he's dumb and had to wire his at 8 ohms because he got the wrong sub
whats your point
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could get an atomic Quantum 15
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yo i totally get it man dont let the haters get to you
you got the w6s in sealed box's so you maximize Sound quality
and you got the L7s in ported box's to give you the SPLZZ
i bet its loud as hell and sounds like sex to your ears
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you'll get more out of 2 15s to 1 18
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so just throwing this out there with my 1 18 apxx its in a
8.7^3 cube gross box which leaves me with roughly 6^3 cube net after port and bracing and sub so if i was you i'd stick to 15s
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that doesnt answer my question
do you have 10 cubes gross or net
look at torres calc
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hold on do you have 10 cubes before or after port/sub/bracing displacement ??
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hey jacub have you tried sealing that little void between the box and the pvc pipe?
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why do you need to replace the leads? or do you just want to or think it will help?
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for 3500 rms your going need bigger fuse then 300 amp haha
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the alternator is the best thing to ground to being that is where the power is originally coming from
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start with a 2x4 base
and might i suggest getting some flat bar (flat steel) and drill hole in it same size as seat bolt and mount it to that then bend it and tie it in to the false floor
i donno if that makes sense or not but if you have questions ask
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Yea well ok I have about 300 bucks I could spend if I really had too so what if I had that what are my options I've never dealt with full-size I've always had minis bagged and stuff I just want to drop this thing dumb low
wait what your 19 but youve always had minis bagged? and stuff? dude why would you start this thread if youve had dropped trucks lol i mean i see your looking to save money, but an air suspension is alot more costly than a static drop and if youve already had that... i dont really see what your asking, you should know your options.
i buy a vehicle that was bagged already- i sell vehicle and buy something new ... i didnt work on the last vehicle.... its weird how things work eh
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would be better to do a V style
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13 w3's?????
edit just seen you only ment 2 13" w3's
lameeeee
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Just like it says, If i wanted to make my own box what would i need? a circular saw, and router to cut out the holes for the subs right? or is it more than that? I have a shop that will build me a box for 75.00, but i already have a circular saw, if i just need a router, ruler, and the hardware i could try to just build one myself.
sounds like the cheapest shop ive ever heard about.
tape measure, pencil, guide, circular saw, router with circle jig, drill, nail gun, air compressor,
probably more things too
or a jig saw and some patience and a simple drill would work
also clamps are handy to have to squeeze the box together (your first box prob wont turn out 100$ square haha )so its handy to have atleast 2 laying around
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before you build your box/glue it up you need to get some sandpaper with a reletivly low grit and you need to sand the first layer of where your going to glue or else your just going bond it to the first laminated layer
and yes you need clamps
and as a rule of thumb if your doing a big system or decently powered system you use screws
if you have a low powered system if you use glue you can use a brad nailer no problem
Thanks for the sand paper idea, i have some 80, 180, 240 laying around i was thinking 180 what do u think?
to be honest i'm not 100% sure on whats the best grit i use whatever i have laying around which is mildly course (i donno much bout the grit ratings n shit haha) you just need sand down a 1/16th "
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before you build your box/glue it up you need to get some sandpaper with a reletivly low grit and you need to sand the first layer of where your going to glue or else your just going bond it to the first laminated layer
and yes you need clamps
and as a rule of thumb if your doing a big system or decently powered system you use screws
if you have a low powered system if you use glue you can use a brad nailer no problem
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holy F$#$ that scared the shit out of me, i had the volume up to loud and wasnt expecting that and yeah i jumped
:Doh: -
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i'm more of a slimjim man myself but hotrods good too
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you can do a 15 sealed off no problem if you have 18" tall
also make sure when your measuring you measure from the trunk springs as they take away 1-3" of trunk
I don't want to wall tho that's the thing. I'm just not sure how to position the woofer for a larger size I could probably barely get sub and port back with a 15. Won't be able to do that with a 18
why dont you want to seal off the trunk and fire forward? because you have the seats up occasionally? and theres 2 things on the sides??
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alberta is where the jobs are at man haha and even then the works going out east to sask (oil refinery wise
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:Doh:
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spectrum sludge
in Second Skin Sound Deadening and Automotive Insulation!
Posted · Edited by uhoh_45
just screwing around on your site and had some ideas about the spectrum sludge and had some questions
if i were to use it on the whole trunk lid would it stiffen the whole trunk lid up to the point where if i were to push on it from the outside would i get any flex??
secondly would 1 gallon do a chevy lumina trunk lid or would i need more?