MuRKRoW
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Posts posted by MuRKRoW
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Those bolts only go into the top plate.
Use a lathe to machine the pipe to the correct size.
12 bolts to hold the top plate? Are you sure?
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so was it a bad amplifier or a bad woofer?
to clearify this is the xtx 5000.1 amp right?
Well the tinsel lead of my sub ripped out and my bad attempt to reconnect it is what blew the amp. Since the ohm load going through that tinsel lead was varying from 2ohms up to 40ohms from wiggling it, it probably was really hard on the amp (especially that MOSFET that exploded). While the amp was working, it was very reliable. And yes it's the XTX5000.1. I have to change the title. I thought I saw a D at the end lol
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DO NOT REPLACE THE CAP! Just get rid of it completely. A idle, you should be reading at least 13.5V, but normally you should be sitting between 13.8-14.8V
EDIT: Take a meter and measure across your battery. Then measure from you alternator+ to the engine block. If you are measuring much higher at the alt+ than you are at the battery, make sure all your grounds and power wires are nice and clean and tight. I was measuring 14.5 off the alt to block and 13.3 on the battery due to problems with grounds at one point
When im idling i'm reading 14.+, when im just playing a bass boosted song. I went to a car audio specialist he told me that it was the capacitor. To tell you, my brother just gave me the capacitor. The cap I guess 5 year old. Haha. I just seek some advice here before i buy a new cap.
Honestly I don't think you know a whole lot about car audio and electricity if you're planning on replacing the capacitor. The capacitor will be continually drawing power to recharge because it does not store power. Replace that capacitor with a battery in the back of your car. Did you meter the voltage on the positive and negative inputs of the amplifier? You should have around 14 volts at the amplifier when the engine is running and around 12 volts when the engine is off. Where is your amplifier grounded to? What size gauge wire are you using? What kind of car do you have? No one can really help you until you answer some more questions about what is going on... And replacing the capacitor is the worst idea i've ever heard...
Jesus 9 volts with Just 1 l7? I bet it's the cap. With my l7 even if I were trying I don't think I could get it that low and ihave completely stock electrical
The sub isn't what is drawing current.
yeah but with that sub it give him about a 1000 watt limit.
K you have no idea what you're talking about. Kicker L7 8's, 10's, and 12's have a 1500watt power rating meaning they can handle that much power from the amplifier. Kicker L7 15's have a 2000watt power rating. The subs don't control the wattage that an amplifier can produce... The amplifier controls how much power is sent to the sub. You should actually know what you're saying before you falsely inform someone else. I think this is why most car audio problems exist...
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You could have a shim made at a machine shop (on a lathe, wouldnt take long) from a piece of pipe that is ~5.5mm thick (get them to measure the gap on each side then average the measurements) and just push the shim into the gap to realign the pole (and entire back plate) with the top plate. If the magnet slugs dont move they should still be fine since they usually have a larger gap anyways.
That's a really good idea! It's definitely going to be tough though to find a metal pipe that is the exact outer diameter of the gap and the exact thickness to fit into the gap. Now you've got me thinking...
EDIT: I was also told that there are alignment bolts which go through the basket into the top plate (and probably the magnets and the t-yoke). I can see the bolts, but they have dried glue on each one (there's 3 bolts per pillar, so 12 bolts total). I don't know if those would help me at all or not, but if it's something as simple as aligning them, then using brute-force can go to the bottom of the list
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Pics of the gap? Although the slugs aren't perfectly aligned that doesn't look shifted to me.
I'll get as close up as possible. The best measurement I was able to get was 6mm on one side of the gap and 5mm on the other. It was most likely not very accurate though.
EDIT: I'll have to take the pic tomorrow or another day because I just realized how late it is and I have college classes tomorrow!
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So what, after only 8 years of boom you maby need a new sub. I felt it as a good bang for the buck, and if you can repair the sub, how long will it last and what will it cost.
If you get a answer from speaker.fix and your wallet, is time to decide. If you broke and repair is possible, let it repair. If not, buy a new sub and sell the sub as it is or the parts.
Well i've only had it for 3 years now. I traded 2 15" L7's with the boxes for the Solo x 18. The Solo x had the old '04 cone that I later replaced. I honestly am on a super tight budget right now. If my Solo x 18 goes, I won't have enough to get a decent replacement and my bass days will be done for a while
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that said, if you secure the frame to something and push on the magnet/rear plate with a tool that can be controlled you should be able to realign them.
I am able to secure it, but what kind of tool? I think that if I have something constantly pushing/pulling on it, it will eventually slide in the right direction but maybe go too far. I tried flipping the basket upside down and hitting the shifted spot with a rubber mallot, but I haven't seen anything move yet
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I believe i've found the reason for the amp blowing!
One of the tinsel leads on my Solo x 18 had completely ripped off about 2 months ago and I reattached it, but it was nowhere good enough. Since my amp blew, I decided to take my sub out and check it out. I checked the resistance on both coils and the first one was fine. The second one had the bad tinsel lead and the resistance on my multimeter was swaying between 2ohms(which it was supposed to be) all the way up to 40ohms just from wiggling it!
I decided to take the whole terminal apart and remove the old chunk of tinsel lead from it and start over. Here are some pics of the outcome:All back together and reading correctly!
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Thanks for the reply. I've sent them an email and am waiting for a response. This is a little off-topic, but has anyone else noticed Kicker's products being lower quality? I heard Kicker was bought out earlier this year? I bought my '07 recone for my Solo x 18 about 5 months ago and have had nothing but problems with it!
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Well some more bad news for me today! My RE Audio XTX5000D blew back on the 22nd of September so I decided to take my box and sub out for now. Previously I had been having problems with the SPLAT(Speaker Precise Location Alignment Tool) which is the metal bracket that goes on the inside of the box that the Solo x 18 bolts into. It was stripped out from many years of use so I drilled out the holes for the bolts and used some J-B Weld to secure some grade 8 nuts onto the underside of the SPLAT. After I finished with the J-B Weld, I decided to clean up the basket/motor assembly(BAM). I took the rubber boot off of the magnet and to my surprise, the T-Yoke and closest magnet to that had shifted slightly. I had noticed that the voice coil would sometimes rub on the T-Yoke, but it was never too bad. What i'm wondering is if there is any way to shift the T-Yoke and closest magnet back into place without breaking the magnets? Help from an experienced member would be much appreciated!
PS: Please don't suggest using the warranty, because this basket/motor assembly is from 2003!
EDIT: Here are some pics
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lol looks like a typical post buyout amp from them, i've yet to see great results from anything post buyout from them.
Yeah :/ I wasn't expecting to get a whole lot from a $350 amp in the first place lol. I'm waiting on twistedchild420 to get back to me about a Crescendo BC3500
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Yeah all the other amps i've owned had those stickers with half on the lid and half on the heatsink, but this one doesn't have any so I decided to take a look inside. I made sure to not leave any fingerprints inside it ahaha
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well thats re for ya... lol what year is that amp?
I think these XTX models came out this year. I know they're RE Audio's newest line
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Well these pics are pretty big!
Hopefully they display on hereHere's the settings. Kinda blurry, sorry.
The rest of these are just pics of the internals and the burnt spot lol
Enjoy
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I'll take a quick pic of the gains to show what they were at. The amp was powering a Kicker Solo x 18 @ a 1-ohm load (Dual 2-ohm coils). I have 2 group 34 batteries with stock alt. and only had between .2 to 1.2 volts drop on full tilt. My alt. sits at 14.4volts at idle so voltage drop shouldn't have messed it up. One thing I was noticing the last few days was how much power the amp drew when it first turned on. When I turned my head unit on, the amp would turn on 2 seconds later and my voltage would drop down to around 13volts and then go back up. I don't remember it doing this when I first started using it. By the way, the amp is 4 months old :/
EDIT: Not professionally installed. I would never pay an installer around here... unless I wanted to waste a good $200 on something very simple. The only local audio shop is outrageously priced, and will never get my business
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Well today I was driving to work with my bass up and I started hearing a lot of feedback through my speakers. Then my sub stopped playing so I looked back and to my amazement, lots of black smoke and flames were coming out of the amp. I almost got into a car accident trying to pull over and get the amp unhooked from power. Luckily I have a warranty so i'll be replacing it, but I figured some people may want to see the inside of these amps (and see what blew up
). I've only taken 2 pictures with my phone and i'm really tired, but i'll get my digital camera and get some good close ups later. -
Why does everyone insist on running their amps at .5
Because they want the magical smoke.
LOLLL its not "magical smoke"
its more like the person purposefully trying to set their trunk on fire! -
just run each sub to its own amp and gain match its the easiest!!
x2
x3
But I would do like what was said earlier, which was getting dual 2 ohm subs so that you have a 1 ohm load on each amp. The only time I have ever run a .5 ohm load was on accident when I found out my Solo x 18 was a dual 1 ohm instead of a dual 2 ohm
... No wonder I went through so many amps! LOL -
Already cleared the history several times. The theme is normal when I reopen the browser and go back to steavemeadedesigns.com but after I log in, it goes back to this and the problem continues. :/
Gahh nvm, I got it. After I changed the theme to IP.Board, the buttons for applying the changed theme shifted under some other stuff & I saw them after I changed the resolution of my monitor.
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Already cleared the history several times. The theme is normal when I reopen the browser and go back to steavemeadedesigns.com but after I log in, it goes back to this and the problem continues. :/
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I was gonna say a Chrysler 300 cause I know those have the RWD option and are really quick. Also have an adequate amount of trunk space to work with!
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Hey everyone, I changed the theme of the website at the bottom from SMD Dark Default to IP.Board Lo-Fi & now I can't change it to anything else! :/ This theme also doesn't show any user pics or anything anymore either, so it would be great if I could get it back to normal! Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks!
& I also figured this would be the best spot to post this
... No wonder I went through so many amps! LOL.gif){kind=small}
What causes this sub problem?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Maybe the new '11 line of L7's. And yes I said the max wattage that they can handle. I was not talking about the rms. And why would that sub give him a 1000 watt limit? Please explain this to me. If an amplifier, lets say Kicker ZX2500 which is stable at 2ohms has a Dual 4ohm Kicker L7 15 sub hooked up to it. The amplifier is still capable of putting out 2500 watts rms to this sub. Yes the ohm load does matter, but what you were referring to is that the amplifier cannot put out any more power than what the sub can handle rms which is completely untrue.
I was not attempting to be a dick to him but if I was, then sry. The point that I wanted to get across is that capacitors are basically a gimmick for audio companies. The companies put some flashy LED's on them and sometimes a voltage display and claim that they stop voltage drop, when in reality they do nothing but make more problems. But to be honest, the most voltage drop I had from a stock battery and stock alternator was going from 14.4volts to 12.1volts and I was drawing 160amps of power. Now I draw 300amps of power from 2 deep cycle batteries and a stock alternator and only drop from 14.4volts to 14.2 or 14.1volts. There must be a bad connection between the battery and the amplifier or the battery is bad. Double check everything...