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They didn't respond because you have no idea what you're talking about.

It's not your o2 sensor. Your engine putters right before the code comes on indicating that your air/fuel mixture is lean (too much air). It could be a vacuum leak. It could be a problem in your fuel system (fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors). Or maybe even a random misfire. Do a compression test and see if they're all within a close range. Does your engine have an EGR valve? It could be a sign of the EGR valve sticking open and choking the engine. What engine does that have?

Run a new ground wire for your headunit. I can almost guarantee you that's the problem. Either run the line off the negative terminal of your battery to the headunit or use a self-tapping screw into a bare metal spot. What brand of headunit do you have? Pioneer is known for having issues with pulses/white noise through the RCA's. Also make sure that your RCA's are ran on the opposite side of the car from your power wires (for example: power wires on driver's side and RCA's on passenger side). Running your RCA's down the middle of your car can also put feedback in the line (apparently from the transmission). Run that new ground and let us know what happens.

13.3volts to 14.4volts isn't very steady at all. I stay at 14.2-14.4volts constant. I don't have voltage drop until I draw upwards of 250amps and it drops down to the float charge of my batteries (13.3volts). You're running the BB1400.1 right now right? It looks like that amp has equivalent fusing to the saz-1500 (4x40 fuses) so they should both draw around the same. I've never used a sundown amp before, but i'm guessing that it will sound a lot cleaner and louder. You have a stock alt?

That's definitely a unique way to mount the sub You're really skilled at fiberglassing though. I wish I was that good!

It all comes down to your charging system and impedance rise. If you can keep a good, steady current, you should be where you need to be. You should also take into account that these tests were done on ~12.5-12.85volts. With the car running, you should be seeing closer to ~14.1-14.6volts and higher outputs from the amp. Has anyone clamped an saz-1500 on ~14.4volts? I think these numbers would be a little more helpful for you..

Yes you will be able to run all 4 speakers. All you are doing is running a positive and negative wire off of each rear speaker (or I guess it could be front speakers too). There will be 2 sets of wires, one set for each channel, and they will need to be connected to both the remote turn-on adapter and the high-to-low converter. It's usually a lot easier if you extend wires off of each adapter because they come with such short wires. The high-to-low converter should have 5 wires coming out of it (white, white-black stripe, gray, gray-black stripe, and black). The black wire is the ground wire and each set of colors is a channel (positive without a stripe and negative with the stripe). I think the white is the left channel and the gray is the right channel, but don't quote me lol. The remote turn-on is a little different. If I remember correctly, it only needs one speaker connection (positive and negative) and the other 2 wires are positive and negative connections to the battery. The adapter packaging usually has some info on what wire goes where and the wire shielding may say as well. I would recommend pigtail connectors and zip ties to keep it organized and make it look nice. The pigtail connectors are simply crimp-on and the zip tie is used about a half inch below the bundle to keep them all together and protect them from being tugged on. Here's a pic of what i'm talking about... I did this to my wiring harness for my deck:

I just read the link that SnowDrifter posted in post #4 and it seems like a good solution to bypass the pico fuses. Read through that and see if that's a viable solution. If I had this problem with my Pioneer head unit, I would be trying this before anything else and wasting money

You will need a High-to-low level converter. It basically converts the speaker signal (high) to RCA outputs (low). You will also need a trigger module (remote turn-on) so that you don't have to manually use a switch every time you want bass (and run the risk of accidentally leaving the amp on when you are done using it). I went ahead and found what you would need to buy and the prices on these are pretty decent. High-to-low converter: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5264_PAC-SNI-15.html Remote turn-on: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38570_P.I.E.-1VT.html If you need any more advice or help installing these, shoot me a PM and i'll do my best

What amps are you using? Do you have videos? I wanna see how these move

After debating for several days if I should sell my Solo x 18 and RE Audio XTX5000, I went ahead and got rid of them. I purchased a ZCON 18 and a Stetsom 2K5E and am just waiting for them to hurry up and get here! Right now, I'm not sure if I should buy a second 18 or not. The Stetsom is rated at 3300 watts RMS @ 1-ohm on 13.8volts so there's a little too much power for just one sub. Does anyone have this amp? Have you clamped it? What ratings did you get at 14.4volts? Is there headroom for a 2nd ZCON? I may just end up buying a second 2K5E if I buy another 18 and not worrying about it. I'll post pics as the equipment arrives and of course during the build. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks... stay tuned!

By watching your video, I really think you should redo your ground. Did you just solder it to the rear seat closing bracket? I would put a ring terminal on that wire and then I would sand down a small area to bare metal. Then use a self tapping screw and screw down the ring terminal to that bare spot. If i'm just blind, ignore this lol. I think grounds are a really common place to get feedback so I would check everything you can.

Since it was so nice out today, I went ahead and took a flex video of my van. I've honestly never seen my mirrors flexing so hard! Let me know what you think!

You might want to consider a DC 5k or similar. From what I've heard, having multiple amps is less efficient and plus you would have to worry about the stability of multiple amps at an unusual resistance. So if you put a 1.34ohm load on a DC 5k, I would think you get around 600-650 watts RMS per sub. If you got the 7.5k, you should get around 900-950 watts RMS per sub. That doesn't take into account impedance rise, stable voltage, etc. although you did mention your electrical can hold 6k easily. Please correct me if i'm wrong on any of this. Thanks!

I was going to suggest a bad ground going to the head unit or feedback through the RCA's... maybe from them being by power wires or running down the middle of the car. I think it's just your head unit. All I can suggest is to try a different head unit and see if it has the same problems. Good luck!