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They didn't respond because you have no idea what you're talking about.

It's not your o2 sensor. Your engine putters right before the code comes on indicating that your air/fuel mixture is lean (too much air). It could be a vacuum leak. It could be a problem in your fuel system (fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors). Or maybe even a random misfire. Do a compression test and see if they're all within a close range. Does your engine have an EGR valve? It could be a sign of the EGR valve sticking open and choking the engine. What engine does that have?

Run a new ground wire for your headunit. I can almost guarantee you that's the problem. Either run the line off the negative terminal of your battery to the headunit or use a self-tapping screw into a bare metal spot. What brand of headunit do you have? Pioneer is known for having issues with pulses/white noise through the RCA's. Also make sure that your RCA's are ran on the opposite side of the car from your power wires (for example: power wires on driver's side and RCA's on passenger side). Running your RCA's down the middle of your car can also put feedback in the line (apparently from the transmission). Run that new ground and let us know what happens.

13.3volts to 14.4volts isn't very steady at all. I stay at 14.2-14.4volts constant. I don't have voltage drop until I draw upwards of 250amps and it drops down to the float charge of my batteries (13.3volts). You're running the BB1400.1 right now right? It looks like that amp has equivalent fusing to the saz-1500 (4x40 fuses) so they should both draw around the same. I've never used a sundown amp before, but i'm guessing that it will sound a lot cleaner and louder. You have a stock alt?

That's definitely a unique way to mount the sub You're really skilled at fiberglassing though. I wish I was that good!

It all comes down to your charging system and impedance rise. If you can keep a good, steady current, you should be where you need to be. You should also take into account that these tests were done on ~12.5-12.85volts. With the car running, you should be seeing closer to ~14.1-14.6volts and higher outputs from the amp. Has anyone clamped an saz-1500 on ~14.4volts? I think these numbers would be a little more helpful for you..

Yes you will be able to run all 4 speakers. All you are doing is running a positive and negative wire off of each rear speaker (or I guess it could be front speakers too). There will be 2 sets of wires, one set for each channel, and they will need to be connected to both the remote turn-on adapter and the high-to-low converter. It's usually a lot easier if you extend wires off of each adapter because they come with such short wires. The high-to-low converter should have 5 wires coming out of it (white, white-black stripe, gray, gray-black stripe, and black). The black wire is the ground wire and each set of colors is a channel (positive without a stripe and negative with the stripe). I think the white is the left channel and the gray is the right channel, but don't quote me lol. The remote turn-on is a little different. If I remember correctly, it only needs one speaker connection (positive and negative) and the other 2 wires are positive and negative connections to the battery. The adapter packaging usually has some info on what wire goes where and the wire shielding may say as well. I would recommend pigtail connectors and zip ties to keep it organized and make it look nice. The pigtail connectors are simply crimp-on and the zip tie is used about a half inch below the bundle to keep them all together and protect them from being tugged on. Here's a pic of what i'm talking about... I did this to my wiring harness for my deck:

I just read the link that SnowDrifter posted in post #4 and it seems like a good solution to bypass the pico fuses. Read through that and see if that's a viable solution. If I had this problem with my Pioneer head unit, I would be trying this before anything else and wasting money

You will need a High-to-low level converter. It basically converts the speaker signal (high) to RCA outputs (low). You will also need a trigger module (remote turn-on) so that you don't have to manually use a switch every time you want bass (and run the risk of accidentally leaving the amp on when you are done using it). I went ahead and found what you would need to buy and the prices on these are pretty decent. High-to-low converter: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5264_PAC-SNI-15.html Remote turn-on: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38570_P.I.E.-1VT.html If you need any more advice or help installing these, shoot me a PM and i'll do my best

What amps are you using? Do you have videos? I wanna see how these move

After debating for several days if I should sell my Solo x 18 and RE Audio XTX5000, I went ahead and got rid of them. I purchased a ZCON 18 and a Stetsom 2K5E and am just waiting for them to hurry up and get here! Right now, I'm not sure if I should buy a second 18 or not. The Stetsom is rated at 3300 watts RMS @ 1-ohm on 13.8volts so there's a little too much power for just one sub. Does anyone have this amp? Have you clamped it? What ratings did you get at 14.4volts? Is there headroom for a 2nd ZCON? I may just end up buying a second 2K5E if I buy another 18 and not worrying about it. I'll post pics as the equipment arrives and of course during the build. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks... stay tuned!

By watching your video, I really think you should redo your ground. Did you just solder it to the rear seat closing bracket? I would put a ring terminal on that wire and then I would sand down a small area to bare metal. Then use a self tapping screw and screw down the ring terminal to that bare spot. If i'm just blind, ignore this lol. I think grounds are a really common place to get feedback so I would check everything you can.

Since it was so nice out today, I went ahead and took a flex video of my van. I've honestly never seen my mirrors flexing so hard! Let me know what you think!

You might want to consider a DC 5k or similar. From what I've heard, having multiple amps is less efficient and plus you would have to worry about the stability of multiple amps at an unusual resistance. So if you put a 1.34ohm load on a DC 5k, I would think you get around 600-650 watts RMS per sub. If you got the 7.5k, you should get around 900-950 watts RMS per sub. That doesn't take into account impedance rise, stable voltage, etc. although you did mention your electrical can hold 6k easily. Please correct me if i'm wrong on any of this. Thanks!

I was going to suggest a bad ground going to the head unit or feedback through the RCA's... maybe from them being by power wires or running down the middle of the car. I think it's just your head unit. All I can suggest is to try a different head unit and see if it has the same problems. Good luck!

What do you mean? It has no SMD (Surface Mount Design) parts on it. It's most likely around 10 years old... maybe older. It looks like a low end brand like Legacy, Pyramid, etc. My guess is Legacy! EDIT: I also just noticed that it only has 4 MOSFETS for the power section and 4 for the output section. The fact that it only has 8 total FETS, 1 small transformer, and 2 small capacitors means that it's not going to do a whole lot. I can tell you right now that 4gauge inputs weren't necessary for that amp. I would search any numbers on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) through Google and see if something comes up. On a side note, someone above said it only has a 20-amp fuse. Yes it currently does, but the images don't show enough to assume that the fuse is even the correct size.

You have a lot of IP banning and thread deleting ahead of you lol

My opinion on repairs is that it should only take 2 - 3 months at max to have an amplifier fixed and shipped back to the customer. If they don't like working hard, then I don't know why they even got into this business. Waiting 7 months like I did is just wrong. And they didn't even fix it... it's permanently broken now! I had talked to one of the guys at CIA Engineering (I think his name was Dave) about a week before I sent it and he said that if I sent him the amp and a few different parts, he would fix the amp for cheap and fast. I went online and ended up spending over $50 in parts to send with the amp. I never got one of those parts back... I basically spend $80 ($30 for shipping and $50 for parts) to have my amp be destroyed for 7 months. To this day, he ignores my phone calls. Honestly if you can't do your job in a reasonable amount of time, then you either hire more man power or you go to a different profession. That's my 2 cents..

It weighs 103lbs. And the cone maybe weighs 2 or 3lbs. It was a $1600 subwoofer when I got it, so paying around $100 to ship it there, then probably another $100 to have it fixed, then another $100 to ship it back is much better than spending another $1600. Oh and by the way, the cost of a recone for this is right around $300 too so it wouldn't be much different spending that for the basket/motor lol In the end, it's all just more money to make my car shake

Yes this is the repair center in California that I couldn't remember. This is their site: http://www.audioclinik.com/. I've called this place before and they wanted me to spend around $200 not including shipping to have my other amplifier repaired. That is why I went with CIA Engineering, but I got screwed in the end for going the cheap route I guess. I'll give them a call tomorrow and see if they can be more reasonable on the prices. Thanks!

I will look that company up. Thanks! They don't just ask you where you live and then give you a number... I've dealt with Maxxsonics before and to be honest, I found their customer service very unfriendly. They will ask for the make/model of the amp along with the serial number and what is wrong with it. If the amp is in warranty, then you can send it to them and then they send it out to be fixed. Otherwise they will give you their 2 "certified" repair centers - one being CIA Engineering (the place that held onto my amp for 7 months, destroyed it, and then sent it back and basically said tough luck) and the other I can't recall the name of (it's in California). That amp that CIA Engineering wrecked was 3 days past my month warranty and they said there was nothing they could do. Like I said before, I need a company or person that isn't affiliated with Maxxsonics/Hifonics and that is trustworthy. I really would love having this amp working again!

Well the amp was opened by the previous owner and is 2+ years old. What I would need is a company that isn't affiliated with the manufacturer or just someone that can repair it on their own and is trusted

Well either way, the lvl2's hold 600watts at max so 1200watts max per pair. I can almost guarantee that the Kenwood amp isn't putting out 1800watts of power. Maybe right around 1200watts. Also from my experience, most foreign amps like Kenwood, Sony, Alpine, etc. do not have clean bass. Most foreign brands like those I listed are known for treble and not bass. The DC 1.2k is underrated. I wouldn't be surprised if it's pushing 1500+watts and sounding 10 times cleaner than the Kenwood... but 1500+watts rms will be double, almost triple what the subs can handle. I would only upgrade to this amp if you plan to get subs that can handle more power and if you plan to upgrade your power wire and batter(y/ies). There's my 10 cents!

To be 100% honest with you, what's going through my head right now is "Why would he buy an amplifier that draws 200 amps of power when he doesn't even have the proper wiring to support it...?" There was probably so much resistance in your ground wire... that would explain why the ground wire was glowing orange and melted the casing of it. Like it was said earlier, something major was fried out... most likely in the power section. I would not open the case and look inside if I were you, unless you want a large paper weight. Most places will not even attempt to fix the amp if it's been opened. The first thing I would have done is to call AudioQue and ask them what to do. Do not attempt to fix the amp yourself unless you're an expert. And a reminder for future reference: If an amplifier has a certain gauge input, for example 0gauge, then that is what size should be used. I understand that you were checking to see if it worked since it's a used amp, but turning the amplifier gain up even past 1/4 was a bad idea. If it turned on and put out sound, then you should have waited to turn it up more until you had the appropriate gauge wiring. Well i'm done rambling lol. I hope you know a little bit more now than you did when you hooked it up! Good luck with the amp

Hey everyone. Like the title says, I have a BXi1610D that needs to be repaired. The amp powers on fine, but outputs no sound at all. It doesn't go into protect mode and I have no warranty for this. If possible, I would like a few options so that I can call around and see what it would cost. Is there anyone on here that is trusted and can repair amplifiers? Thanks in advance for your input! PS: Please don't suggest CIA Engineering. I sent an amp to this company to be repaired around June 2010 and didn't receive it back until January 2011. They had it for 7 months and after hundreds of calls from me asking where it is, they sent it back. To be honest, I think they were trying to not send it back. When it finally arrived, there was a note saying it had not been repaired and when I opened the lid, it was 10 times worse than when it started. Now i'm out $450 for that amplifier!