audiofanaticz
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Posts posted by audiofanaticz
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Ports on the wrong side may hurt you a little. If you ever get a chance to meter again try the sensor on the driver side dash (instead of passenger side dash).
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15 hours ago, SnowDrifter said:
Quality Mobile video.... But then makes videos about how GREAT Power Acoustik and Pyle are.... Nothing quality about these brands but of coarse they are talking them up BIG TIME because thats the anything but quality gear they sell... SMH
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On 11/14/2014 at 9:49 PM, audiofanaticz said:
Brian
Sheboygan, WI 53083
DD-1, CC-1, IM-SG, DD-1+, True RMS Multimeter, 2 True RMS Clamp meters, TermLab, TermPro Design Software, Tablesaw, Custom built enclosures!
Price is always negotiable!
I will sticky this thread and go away with the old thread as well.
Can I get AMM-1 added to mine as well.
Thanks!
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He black and lives in Chi so it will go down like this.
Throwing the keys out the window will be an attempted assault on the officer(s).
Once they see the beer bottle the cops will yell GUN and start shooting before the car door is even opened to get out.
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Doesnt always work.
Many states have an open container law, so even if you were say walking down the street drinking a beer you could be busted for it and or public intoxication (even if you are under the legal limit and walking or standing on the sidewalk in front of your house).
Which is why many bars wont let you take a beverage outside unless its a fenced in area or patio that has no entrance/exit except for going through the bar.I think Vegas is the only place Im aware of that you can have an open container in a vehicle and legally be drinking it drunk off your ass as long as your not driving.
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Something about this beat I like. Wish there was an actual lyricists on it though.
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Seeing as you just bought a charger Im sure you never hooked up a charger to it in the past. One of the first things you should do is charge the battery before use.
Next: An alternator is never meant to charge a battery but rather keep them maintained, especially if you have a stock alternator that is typically just large enough to keep the stock battery decent.
Continuing on, batteries that go left with a lower charge can have lead sulfate buildup on the plates inside the battery which causes the battery to become weaker.
If your battery charger has a recondition mode on it I would use that and try to get your battery in good shape again. It would probably be best to remove the battery from the vehicle when doing this so that A: nothing is connected to it, and B: the recovery mode can take a REALLY long time (sometimes even days).
So you dont want to be unplugging the charger to drive your vehicle in the middle of a recovery just to have to go and start that process over again. -
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1 hour ago, Stephenforeman said:
Well look like a long time now but I'm finding a good one. Find some good one on amazon and on this one https://innovatecar.com/best-car-audio-battery/ they pick the Optima Batteries 8171-767 (DS46B24R) YellowTop Prius Battery. I think I gonna choose Optima Batteries 8002-002 34 RedTop Starting Battery. Let see how it work.
Optima batteries are junk, period.
That link you posted is a joke.. Lets compare 5 batteries for "the best car audio battery".....
Of those 5 batteries in their test, 4 of which are Optima, the 5th battery is an Odyssey battery that is half the weight of the other batteries being compared. The smaller battery means lower everything so its no doubt a larger battery would be better..
Odyssey makes great batteries and the equavilant sized odyssey that was not included in that test would of shit all over the optima batteries.
Lets not forget leading batteries on the market are no where to be found.
XS Power, BatCap, Kinetik, Northstar, or even an actual Odyssey battery the same group size of the optimas being tested...
Optima batteries are old news, and been so for the last 10+ years when they fail to advance their battery technology to remain competitive, and this is why that article is a biased joke because they need to use another brand battery half the size to prove that the optimas are good when their really not..You just fell victim to marketing..
I mean to show how stupid this test is they are saying the Optima 34 is #4 on the list and the Optima 34R is #5 on the list.... I
ts the same damn battery with same specs how is one better then the other.... The only real difference is the R and that R is meant for REVERSE, meaning the positive and negative terminals are swapped around...
I wouldnt be surprised if Optima paid someone to right such a biased review/test. -
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1 hour ago, boom50cal said:
maybe, just maybe, she used to daily drive a classic with the tank behind the license plate.
Not going to lie, I kind of miss that about newer cars, wish this was still done, however with how vehicle bodies changed and now the rear the vehicle opening up with the trunk instead of just the top portion makes it pretty much impossible.
Now days you have a gas door right in the middle of some clean body lines.
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29 minutes ago, Ron36 said:
The gas gauge on every car has an arrow telling u what side the fuel door is on . But I think 90% of people don't know that.
Another thing worth mentioning is even if you pull up on the wrong side of the pump, the hose is usually long enough to reach the other side of the car, so you dont have to get back in and turn the vehicle around.
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If the coil wind height is different then the new coil then you wont be able to use it as a refrence, same goes for if you goto a different style basket, or use a different spider landing, or add any sort of spacers or vent rings between the top plate and basket.
Also its fairly hard to get an accurate reading off a recone that is already glued together due to the glue beads around the coil.
Your best case maybe setting the recone assembly on something flat like a table and measuring off the top of the table up towards the bottom of the spider lip that gets glued to the spider landing for the most accurate numbers.
Also get yourself a semi decent caliper, it will be WAY easier to do any measurements in MM and not inches. It will be a lot easier dividing and multiplying whole numbers than trying to use fractions.Just giving you some tips is all, because it can be very tricky and frustrating to some for a first time complete build up.
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3 hours ago, Mitchaford said:
Oh I know its a budget 4k but it works fairly well for now with my current setup.
I did it on purpose btw. It took the 4k clean for 15-20 minutes at a time no real problems. I'd let it cool down after that just to be safe.
For the money, that sub is quality.
As soon as I got my new sub in I just free-aired the mayhem full gain for about 2 minutes and it sparked real nice.
Have new parts to actually make my own recone *first time doing that* for the mayhem.
I wouldn't say for the money they are quality subs, they are just quality subs at a great price. Nothing budget oriented really imo about them. Fi/AA does a few things to keep parts prices down compared to similar wattage options that I have noticed over the years.
I had my pair of mayhem 18s in a rather large low box and they took a lot of abuse from a saz-4500 wired down .35 per sub. Lasted a long while, and didnt have any coil issues, but triple joint issues. (same for my Fi ufo btls 15s, but I kept regluing the triple joint every week the night before a comp until it one was done for good).
Make sure to properly align and measure EVERYTHING when doing the recone. Lots of measurements go into getting the coil height correct so that you dont jump the gap or bottom it out.
1 hour ago, mathewyocham said:So you vandalizing her mirror and running away fixed the situation how?
Theres a youtube channel I follow, and bikers do this all the time, many times the other driver did nothing wrong, like merging on to a highway in front of a biker yet the vehicle has plenty of room between them and the merging vehicle, nor does the biker move over to the other lane if he is so worried...
Then some of these guys flip a u banger in the middle of the road in front of oncoming traffic, break the speed limit to catch up, start cussing out the driver and kick or punch a mirror then take off speeding the other way.....Seems like most the clips posted on the channel are bikers in the wrong over and over and over!
DirtBike Lunatic
https://www.youtube.com/user/TTheEveryThingg
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4 hours ago, Mitchaford said:
AA Mayhem vs. CT 4k
The coil was black on the outside to begin with but I didn't think it was just on the outside layer...
#madeinchina amps.
But really though, user error.See the thing most people don't understand is someone skilled in an particular subject will know why that coil failed.
The black coating is something called "coil bonder", depending on what brand bonder is being used that color can look very much like copper to black like its burnt. Sometimes they get left to cure too long, or cure them longer for a higher temperature rating and it darkens the color more than normal but doesn't effect performance. Then you also have your actual black bonders that claim to handle crazy amounts of heat (which Fi/AA doesn't use). The typical bonder used on most Precision Econowind voice coils that are made in Florida can withstand 600+ degrees F.
Contrary to what people believe, a blackish or blacker coil typically has nothing to do with the coils well being, and typically means nothing.However the only way your burning through layers of coil like that is from MASSIVE clipping, crazy clipping is what burns holes through multiple layers of windings.
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Someone already posted it on his facebook
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That sub looks beastly, wonder if I can fit one in my car. LOL
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Id love a 3rd gen cts v, maybe in 10 years though.
Hell even a 2nd gen, but thats no where near in the budget. Though I really have no need for it. I like my v8s though and wasn't looking at normal cts's until I learned that they have the basic bitch base models, and the nicer di models and fact that it was more hp and better gas mileage than my Seville sold me.
I was just looking at the 2004 and up STS models, which are like the first gen body cts, but had a nicer cluster and center console imo, then I splurged a little more to step up to the cts.
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17 hours ago, boom50cal said:
all V's had the factory screen. Idk what I'm gonna do for a stereo right now, since I can't get rid of the screen because it has all the driver information center BS.
looking into a 3sixty.3 and bluetooth with my iphone, use the RF volume knob.
I would do a processor and go that route. when Ive been looking for a cts it was mandatory that it had the screen too! but not a V, but not the little engine either, it has the DI that is 304hp v6 which is more power than my v8 northstar. lol
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I actually like the body of them as well, just the cluster and center console seemed to lacking for me.
They dont look no where near as bad if you have the factory screen though.
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On 8/13/2017 at 1:31 PM, boom50cal said:
99% sure this is about the exact setup i'll use. Im gonna run a v2 CTS lid though so it'll probably clear the hood
I watched that video the other day, excited to watch the build, but I just dont like the first gens, even if it is a V. The interior is so plan and dull looking imo. Reminds me of a cheaper GM.
Kind of like this 86 corvette I looked at, the digital dash reminded me of my dads 87 cavalier z24 dash so much.. It made me feel like the corvette wasnt a corvette.Corvette
Cavalier
Granted the vette has a lil more going on, but to me it doesnt feel like a vette.
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