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audiofanaticz

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Everything posted by audiofanaticz

  1. if your radio is distorting at volume 15 with 40hz, than that should be your max volume regardless if volume 20 is clean with 1khz because anything after 15 will always be distorted on your lower frequencies. Not to mention most factory radio equalization starts to limit or lower the bass frequencies towards higher volumes to protect the crappy factory speakers, so you never want to set gains using a higher volume unless you're running some sort of DSP to fix the horrible factory eq curve, sum the channels together, etc.
  2. Unless your buying them to just let them collect dust then the money can be spent better with other woofers that aren't outdated and have limitations imo. Not to mention due to the age I would be very concerned with spider (suspension) sag and the overall cone sitting lower than it should be which can result in failure. Problem with them is spending that kind of money and if they ever blow you are essentially screwed because the lms ultra coil is very unique with how it is wound for a flat BL profile. The coils are getting harder and harder to find now days. Sure you can use a different traditional coil in them but those motors are designed specifically for that basically non existent coil and without it the sub is even a bigger turd. I know if I had that sub and people are willing to pay that kind of price Id sell it in a heartbeat and say so long sucker!
  3. Probably older discontinued models
  4. Its real simple to short out rca signals, it's rather common and people do it all the time. It falls under user/installer error but no one admits it and says they never did it even though its like the key way for it to happen. It is hot swapping rca plugs such as unplugging and plugging in rca cables in to the headunit / eq / line driver / dsp / amp / etc when the stereo is powered on. This seems to be done even more so when a person is trying to troubleshoot a problem and the center pin of the rca (which is positive) touches the outer rca shield (which is negative) and shorts out the circuit. So when people post those sorts of symptoms everyone is knowing what the person did even though the blatantly deny ever doing it, let alone owning up to their mistake and learning from it...
  5. If you're already using 2 stock 150 amp alts go with the 400 amp alt then. Typically the higher the amperage the less it will put out at idle speeds so that means the 370 amp alt will do more at idle than the 400 however at higher rpms the 400 will do more than the 370 and since you already got 2 stock alts you don't really need to worry about idle speed too much, plus both those alts should do over 200 at idle. If this was going to be your only alt I would say the 370 would be a better choice or maybe even something a little smaller but since you got those two stock ones go as big as you can go!
  6. That's actually not why LEDs and HIDs don't dim. LEDs don't dim because most of the time they have a some what regulated power supply with a wide range of voltages that they work at, typically 9volts to 16volts. I've already came across bulbs as low as 6volt and as high as 24volt on bulbs that are using a driver. With that regulated power supply it doesn't matter if you give them 9volts or 16volts neither one will be brighter than the other even though you think the led bulb running at 9volts would be dimmer than the one at 16volts. Very similar for HID as well and those actually demand more current than a headlight during a startup but after warmed up they are drawing about the same as a halogen bulb would. The HID ballasts are designed to work on a similar wide range of voltages too, but the ballast is being powered by DC and converting that in to a much higher AC voltage to power the bulbs.
  7. Yes, only the L (lamp wire) is needed to turn it on and charge, you will want to connect the L wire to a 12volt ignition switched power source, or use a toggle switch to manually turn it on/off when needed (but you need to remember to turn it off when you shut the vehicle off because you dont want it on when the vehicle is off if you go the toggle switch route). Also you need to run that size resistor in line with it because it will reduce the voltage and prevent the voltage regulator from burning up (this is something already done when its controlled by a vehicles computer, but when you are bypassing that and running your own power source you need to do it), this is a must or that new regulator will only last a few days at best).
  8. Simple fix is to swap the voltage regulator to the 4 pin gm, if your not confident in doing so then send it to your alt manufacture. You just got to pop the back plastic cover off and make sure its using this style (layout) of a voltage regulator which most aftermarket Denso alts are (where as factory/oem ad244 and dr44 alts are using a different style voltage regulator and you wont be able to swap to the 4 pin regulator). The 4 pin plugs are like $25-$45 iirc depending on brand and a 15volt setpoint. https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/regulator-electronic-for-denso-0030-0031-126600-0030-126600-0031-230-52108.html Also when you are using your own plug to turn the alt on and not using the factory wiring you NEED to use a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor on the L field of the 4 pin plug which turns the alt on other wise you will burn up the voltage regulator. You can also use 3 amp 400 volt diodes on the S field of the plug and then connect it direct to the charging stud to boost charging voltage, 2 diodes will put you around 15.8 volts hot and 3 will give you about 16.1 volts hot. Granted that is probably way to high for LTO cells, but my CMAX thrives at those voltages.
  9. So my point is your radio is using rca preouts to go into a rca to balance module to give balanced inputs to the amp. Seems to be that you can just cut out the balance connection all together and use the rca that you are already having to use. It seems you are just adding in additional failure points to the system using the balanced inputs and something wacky could be up with the converter, or one of the balance cables, or one of the rca cables feeding the balance converter, etc. As for voltages on each channel not matching up that can be rather normal, its not uncommon for a 2 channel or 4 channel amplifier to have 1 channel that is say 5% ish more than the other due to tolerances of the parts used inside the amp.
  10. Ideally if you were to try that you would almost want to match the port area of the new port with the old port, and you would want them to be of equal length (at least when doing multiple ports of the same type), but where you will run in to problem number 1 is that added port area is going to raise tuning higher than it currently is by a lot. Problem number 2 would be that it would be rather hard to match port area of the current slot port because aero ports have less internal surface area inside the port than a slot port of the same port area which is what makes them more efficient than a slot port and this means you can usually get by with less port area and yield the same results as a larger slot port. That goes for round ports in general actually. I agree with Joe and knowing what you are trying to overcome, so if you know a rebuild is needed maybe taking some time to experiment prior could be worth the time so you have a better idea which direction to go with a new box.
  11. There are only a few ways to really remove paint such as sanding it off, use a chemical paint stripper, sand or bead blast. No matter what method is used you are not only going to remove the black paint you want off but you will also remove what paint is underneath the black paint and or completely damage it.
  12. I guess it would help if you listed the model numbers of both devices you are using, also why are you using balanced anyways?
  13. 58 cubic feet should be just the right size for that 10 inch!
  14. Or even better yet try to google search the brand and model of the woofer and with in the first page of results you may find several sites that list that woofers specs, and maybe even a free site you can use to design a box. Obviously this method would be asinine to think that it may even work though.
  15. What brand and model is it? Im willing to bet if you search for other gut pics of the same amp it will have the same stuff. It's most likely some kind of glue to keep the resistors that are standing upright a little more secured than by the solder connections alone. Just like all the other components that are covered in the black glue, almost every amp manufacture does it and helps fight vibration damage. Its really hard to tell because the close up picture is so blurry like we living in 2005 all over again!
  16. That doesn't seem to be Russian/Baltic birch like it says. To me it looks like its 5ish ply (layers), rather hard to tell though by the low quality pics and not being able to see the edge clearly. So I would say it is probably a Birch plywood with a softer core on the inner plys like Douglas Fir and a Russian/Baltic top and bottom ply for aesthetics. So that would be similar to the type of Birch, Maple, Oak plywood's you find at your typical big box stores. The big box stores Birch plywood is typically what a lot of people in car audio refer to as Baltic Birch ply when it is just regular Birch ply that is not fully 100% Birch and really only like 4% Birch. These same people claim it to be lighter in weight than MDF which is true, but they do not understand how and why (even after being explained). Real Russian/Baltic Birch is about 80ish lbs per 4by8 sheet. MDF is about 90ish lbs per 4by8 sheet. Regular Birch, Maple, Oak plywood's are about 50ish lbs per sheet which is the same weight as regular plywood. I'm using 3/4 inch thick sheets for all these examples. The reason why those are so much lighter in weight is due to the inner cores being that soft wood that are typically from Douglas Fir. I know real Russian/Baltic Birch that is 3/4 inch thick is 13 ply (layers), and all plys are true Russian/Baltic Birch hardwood, but that wood in the classified listing is 1/2 inch so typically a real Russian/Baltic Birch ply that is 1/2 inch thick is 9 plys, and 1/4 inch thick is 5 plys. Granted this will usually change a little depending on manufacture of the wood, but it typically only changes by 1 ply/layer and not 4 like in the classified ad. Now that I have that information out of the way and you are hopefully some what better educated that wood for $10 per 6 pieces with a $100 minimum (so you will have to get at least 60 pieces of it according to the classified listing) is a steal of a price even if it is the cheaper Birch ply and not real Russian/Baltic wood. I would buy as much of it as I could afford even if I didn't need all of it due to current wood pricing. I would probably find a use for the extra wood that I didn't need and build a few extra boxes to sell to other local bass heads or something!! 17 by 48 is a decent size panel and is rather large enough for most boxes. Now if it was a box being made for myself I wouldn't have an issue doubling up the wood to make a larger panel than what the wood is, after all how its made is each ply is alternated and glued so you would be doing the same thing as the factory does. Make sure to use 100% glue coverage and spread it evenly between the layers, and don't go too thick. Also 100% glue coverage between the edges of the panels where they but together. Then you will want to brad nail or screw both layers together and if screwing go at least 3 inches apart from screw to screw nothing closer than that. Screws too close together can and will weaken the wood so no closer than 3 inches. Some people will mark a grid on the wood prior to gluing it so they know where to put every screw.
  17. NVX makes some decent products, they are SonicElectronix house brand for audio products. I've haven't used their woofers before but I have used some of their amps and sound deadener products before with great results.
  18. You will want to fire the port towards the rear hatch of the vehicle so it has something to load off of and makes the wave longer and a lot louder.
  19. A hardware store would be a safe bet, they usually have a bunch of hardware there like set screws and stuff! It will be a good idea to take one of them out that you plan to replace so you can go inside with it and use the size/thread checker so you buy the correct size. They are every day run of the mill set screws, get stainless ones if you want something stronger than the cheap ones used in the amp.
  20. Typically when adding 1/0 wire from the charging stud of your alternator to the battery positive terminal the wire is rather short and typically able to be ran in such a way where the wire is never in real danger of abrasion causing a short or extreme heat from something such as the exhaust/manifold. Now you can fuse it if you are overly concerned about it not being fused and you will want to fuse it as close to your alternators output amperage. The vast majority of people don't fuse their positive wire for the "big 3" due to the reason I mentioned above and the reason I mention down below. You will want to use an ANL fuse and fuse holder not a fusible link. I think the largest gauge fusible links are around 8 gauge (maybe 4 gauge), but I am not aware of the amperage ratings they offer. Using a 8 gauge or even 4 gauge fusible link on 1/0 wire will most likely cause a decent amount of resistance under high amperage loads and that's not ideal because it creates heat in the wire. I'm more than certain your current fusible link for your starter is rather low amperage and rated for the maximum amperage that your starter draws when starting the vehicle. That being said it is fine and will not need to be replaced for a larger fusible link. So if you have 180 amp alternator you can probably get by with a 150 amp fuse but if it blows use a 200 amp fuse, a 250 amp alternator then use a 250 amp fuse, if its a 390 amp alternator use a 400 amp fuse, etc. Try to use the closest fuse size without going over by too many amps, typically a fuse will allow a decent bit of additional current through for periods of times before it blows (which is why I said a 150 amp fuse for a 180 amp alternator). However like I said above it's typically not needed or done by almost anyone who does the big 3 upgrage.
  21. You can charge it all at once with all batteries connected together. Just be aware that it will probably take a while to charge them, it will come down to the battery size (ah rating) and the size of your charger.
  22. Really it doesn't matter too much since its not going to change anything else in your system so its more on your preference. If you tuned your amp with the 8db overlap and you want the vu-din to light up red when you start to clip your amp then use a 8db track. Some people may not want to see the red light up at all and will back off the adjustment just a little bit so it only lights up red when you are going in to hard clipping. Where as others will set it up so that it hits the red mark a little before you go in to clipping. Play with it a little and see how you like it for yourself.
  23. You should never need to max out the gain to get an amp to make rated power so something is wrong. Refer to my post on this thread because I'm not going to type it all over again, but this person had similar issues with gain voltage. Then again using a dmm is part of the problem in these scenarios.
  24. Technically yes, all amps will draw some power when off but not in the sense you are thinking of. It's very little, we are talking milliamps that just keep the capacitors inside the amplifier filled up. This goes for anything electronic that has capacitors in it really, and even your radio will use some power when off to keep your presets, clock, settings intact. Again, nothing that will kill your battery. On an amplifier that is 5000 watts rms we are talking a draw of like a half amp if not less, and having multiples of these amps wont kill your battery when the vehicle is off, so something so small like what you are using its nothing, like I said its less than equivalent to turning your lights on.
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