audiofanaticz

You really need to get in the car, and gut all the interior from the B pillar backwards and then grab a tape measure and see what you have for room. Without that no one can really give you specs on what to build because we don't know what kind of room you have to work with. Besides that when building a wall you typically build the shell of it as big and strong as possible, once the shell is built you can than worry about measuring its internal dimensions and coming up with a game plan on what and how to build it.

It's possible to do, but they will most likely want you to send in said alternators and have them do it in house for warranty reasons. They also don't sell parts outright to the public either so that would be another reason you would have to send them in.

Drew Jones aka Bassaholics https://www.facebook.com/BassahaulicProductions

Try changing the unit from network mode to standard mode, or vice versa. Also make sure the green parking brake wire is connected. From what I can recall this can cause issues after a factory reset of the radio and it not giving you access to all menus/settings if it is disconnected.

Some lithium chemistry's cant be ran with agm or lead acid batteries. The D4S LTO 6.0 can be though, I have a few different people using them with mixed setups using XS Power D3400s as starting batteries and the LTO in the back by the amps with no problems, no isolators, and no other converters like people are rambling about. Now if it was a chemistry that cant be ran with agms, then you would need some sort of isolator, but then its still stupid because you just delete the front battery and run everything off the lithium and be done with it. Which is why you see people build dumb wooden boxes the size of a battery and call it a battery delete, all you really need though is just a distribution hub under the hood to connect the factory 12v electronics too. Simple buss bars do that just fine.

Just ordered more the other day and it came today!!

Correct. The reason for so many is due to some people using multiple runs of power wire from the front of the vehicle to the back. In my truck for example I have 9 positive runs of 1/0 and 9 negative runs of 1/0 (18 total) coming from my 3 alts under the hood to the back batteries. So when people have larger systems with over 1600amps worth of alternator charging, multiple 5,000+ watt rms amps, etc one single run of 1/0 or even 4/0 coming from under the hood simply cant handle the current load. Now take into consideration of the length of said wire which reduces its current rating, resistance and voltage drop in the wire, hell even if you're pulling the maximum current limit from whatever wire you're running your going to have to factor in heat and even more resistance. So that is why there's multiple spots for additional wires to be connected so you can adapt to your needs and overcome obstacles and restrictions in the wire. Hopefully that helps.

Your alpine has crossover options for the sub too, and it can do more than that outdated eq from the late 90s can. Just use the alpine, That old eq will probably add noise to the system if you try and use it! 🤣

That is also another possibility as well, sometimes just removing the screwdriver after setting it is enough to make a difference. Even if you think you barely bumped it you can change it. When I was driving my truck my amps would have to be rechecked every few weeks due to this and it got annoying fast, I even thought about squirting a little hot glue on the knobs after tuning..

With out knowing the system layout and all the components in the system its a crapshoot at best on why. Maybe something with your radio settings got changed, subwoofer output volume, bass settings, or crossover on the headunit got changed since you set it. Maybe you set the amp at a different volume setting, maybe the remote bass knob wasn't all the way up, maybe your batteries are not fully charged and its creating less power. It should have nothing to do with it being a lithium or agm issue. There's so many actual possibilities to why its testing different from when you first set it up.

drooooooooooooools

Realistically even with the 2 d3400s under the hood and adding 2 more in the back isn't enough voltage for a Salt 8k when you consider that amp can do 11,000 watts rms if voltage is held in the high 13volt range. Voltage/current is going to come from the path of least resistance, so even with triple runs of 1/0, a 400amp alt, and 2 D3400s under the hood that amp is going to pull most its power from the rear power bank of the vehicle first. Since you said this is for Demos and not playing a 3 second long test tone you will want your voltage stout. So I would go with 2 D3100s if you can fit them not D3400s and 2 Super banks to start. Id also do a couple runs of 1/0 for negative wire front to back as well if you have not already.

Did it work? Chances are a lot of these LOC boxes just add constant distortion right off the bat to the signal with minimal to no volume and no matter what level you have the gains adjusted on the LOCs so you will never get a clean reading. Your best bet would be to find the maximum volume level of the factory radio using the speaker wires you will use to tap into the LOC with (without the LOC hooked up) just so you know you have a solid accurate reading. Then go ahead and hook up the LOC and use the DD-1 on the rca outputs of the LOC, turn the radio up to the the volume that you just previously found with 0 gain settings on the LOC and slowly turn them up until distortion is reached (that is if it doesn't show instant distortion). If all is still good with no distortion find the max on the LOC, then hook up the DD-1 to the amplifier and slowly turn the gain from 0 up to distortion. This is really the best way to go about it, sure it is a few more steps but this way your checking all the bases to ensure it's a good signal at every step of the line when you have multiple adjustments that can be made. If you have distortion right away from the LOC then I would invest in a better LOC, not all of them are poor quality but a lot of them are. I know Meade has done a few videos on the cheap ones that just constantly output pure distortion making the DD-1 useless because there is no way around it, but he also done a video on quality ones that are good to use. I think Kicker made a halfway decent one that was under $30. I personally love the AudioControl LC2i and are my gotos for simple single sub amp installs as they offer a little more adjustment and the ability to run a remote bass knob on the newer ones but they are typically $90-120

Usually the negative speaker wire output is fine to use, however on some amps if it don't work then the negative battery terminal will work as well. Most amps the negative speaker terminal and the negative battery terminal are tied together, but thats not always the case and thats really the only time you need to use the negative terminal or vice versa.

If Im understanding you correct it sounds like you pressed the "read" button before switching to the 40hz overlap track, if you press read before the proper track (even if its the same freq) you will get a different outcome.

The problem with running only one coil is the BL factor would be about half as less than rated due to only half the windings on the coil being used. The woofer will not only perform worse but could cause overheating issues. 2000 watts rms on a 1200 watt rms sub is fine, even if you set the gain properly for clean output with no distortion and clipping. Most subs will handle more than their rated power IF the power is kept clean and not clipped to death. You run 1 coil you won't get shit for output and will want to turn the gain up to compensate for the low output and introduce clipping and potentially blow your sub. This is one of the leading causes to people blowing subs is due to having too small of an amp and wanting it louder so they turn the gain up like its a volume knob when it's not. Only in your case you will just be pushing your amp and sub at half the rated performance for no reason and won't be happy so you'll turn it up and let the smoke roll.

Just wire it to 1 ohm unless you like using only half the performance that you paid for.

https://mechman.com/ But this topic is 14 years old so who knows if they still even offer it anymore, or if they could still make one. Probably best to email or call them.

the 2 above replies are spam

The only times I've seen people having issues using a DD-1 or a CC-1 is when they can't read the manual and insist they know what they are doing as soon as they open the package for the first time. These people usually are quick to jump on the forums time and time again asking questions why this doesn't work, or how do you do that, etc and everything they are asking about is clearly written in the manual. Now I'm not saying thats the case with you, but I've never heard of anyone competent having issues using a usb, bluetooth, or an aux in for a source making the dd-1 not work. It's simply not possible because the DD-1 has no idea what source you're using and its completely irrelevant. You could be using a vintage 8-track player plugged in with a 3.5mm jack and as long as there is a 40hz and 1000hz test tone being played on the 8track the DD-1 won't know the difference. Now in the case of a cheap radio with a low preout voltage like 1volt the signal won't be strong enough to detect directly through the rca, however all you do in that situation is test it through the amp, with the amp gain all the way down and crossovers fully open and then you'll get a reading. Honestly this is the best way to test because its a lot quicker and you're not having to unplug and plug in cables, then connect the leads to the amp, etc. 1 hookup and a few different tracks and you're done! You cant set an amp using a multi meter, well you can but you're either short changing yourself or your possibly clipping it. Every amp is not made the same, there are tolerances in components and those tolerance can cause an amp to make more power or less power even though its the same brand and model amp as another. Some of the old Rockford Fosgate BD4000 amps would make 4200 watts rms while others would make 5100 watts rms. Now that I think about it the newer BDCP2500 series are the same way. The problem is say the manufacture says you need 60 volts AC to reach the "rated" output of the amp, but lets say your amp is one that does way more than its rated power and it can easily do up to 76 volts AC clean without distortion, but you have no way knowing that because the multimeter has no way to tell you when you reach 1% THD. The same can happen in the reverse order where said amp doesnt perform as well as the others and at 60 volts AC you are clipping the living snot out of it but once again that multimeter has no way to tell you that you passed the amps threshold. Those 800/8v2's make some serious power, more than what they are rated for, and I know this because besides that JL MM105 that was $750 I picked up the MM40 remote headunit, a 800/8v2, a XDM1000/1, and a few sets of M3 and M6 coaxles, along with a a M7-12 IB sub for this install I've been working on. It's kinda senseless to buy a tool only to not use it for its intended method and use the outdated multimeter method but you do you as long as you're happy with the performance.

Many headunits will not have distortion when using the rca preouts of the headunit. Usually the only radios that will distort on the rca preouts are the cheaper headunits that are like $150, or if you are using the internal amplifier of a headunit. So being that you have a $400+ marine headunit it's most likely distortion free on the preouts. I just installed a JL Audio MM105 with 12 rca preouts and that is clean all the way up as well.

well this is a fairly old topic that got bumped. Wonder how these build is going.....

In all honesty I would wire the amp up at 2.66 ohms. The Salt 8k will still do around 6000watts rms at that ohm load, and even then you are going to be stressing your electrical system with that amp being wired at 2.66 ohms, but its going to be a hell of a lot safer and way less risk of you popping the amp until you're able to upgrade your electrical system to match the amps needs. Besides those MTX 9500 subs are nothing crazy and only rated for 1,000 watts rms, and I'm more than certain that once you upgrade your electrical and wire that amp to .67 those subs will be blown in the first 10 minutes because for all that size and heft they have they can't really take power that great. Just wire two sets of 3 subs in parallel, then take the 2 sets and run them in series to give you 2.66 ohms.

The amp should handle that impedance just fine, however your electrical system is no where near up to par for it, and you will most likely blow the amp because it will be starved for juice. That amp can do just shy of 12,000watts rms @ 1ohm certified on the SMD Amp Dyno (AD-1) so your looking at 1200+ amps of current full tilt. When I was using my 6 XS Power D3100s in the back and 2 XS Power S3400s and 3 DC Power 390XP alternators under the hood of my Tahoe (before swapping to lithium batteries) with 9 runs of 1/0 positive and 9 runs of 1/0 negative wire from the front batteries to the back batteries I was having massive voltage drop into the low 11's when i cracked the volume up with just 2 Sundown SAZ-4500D amps wired at .35 each. That's less potential power than the Salt 8, with like 5 times more electrical than you have.