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audiofanaticz

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Everything posted by audiofanaticz

  1. It will be fine and you wont notice anything with it being 1/16th larger. Its going to change tuning a whole 0.18hz higher and give you about 1 inch more of port area. Nothing to even worry about.
  2. Without knowing specifics of the system, whatever info you have gathered with your clamp, and your current electrical setup this can't really be answered. Ultra capacitors definitely help, but maybe you need a quality battery or batteries along with those capacitors. For all anyone reading your post knows you could have a cheap Everstart battery powering everything. So without knowing what you got and where you're running in to issues that makes you think you need one or the other there is not much to go off of to recommend.
  3. This really doesn't matter much. When dealing with an angled port wall as such all you do is calculate the port length by measuring down the middle of the height. So if the top of the port is 20 inches long and the bottom of the port is 30 inches long that would make the middle of the port length 25 inches long and that is the length you use.
  4. You should be able to email Fi and order it.. If not the BTL recone is the same exact recone but with a different sticker on the dustcap. PSI is your next best bet since but since he isnt taking on new builds ask if you can get the parts raw and assemble yourself. David 100% knows the parts since he worked at Fi back when it was still RE Audio (before it got sold to US Amps and ruined). Essentially the RE Audio MT (though it didn't have woven tinsels, and lesser cooling), the Fi BTL 3 slug (which is a non-painted Mayhem, BTL UFO, BTL N3, and Ascendant Audio Mayhem are all the same "the BTL N2 is also the same but uses 1 less spider iirc". This is just something I've noticed rebuilding a lot of the Fi and AA subs. SSA wont be any help, they split ties and Fi basically said they are only building their products and no longer doing oem builds for companies like SSA. In all seriousness just ship the magnet to me because I need an 8th Mayhem motor to build up!
  5. Love how you can still simply add the color to them. Mass produced but still have that customizable touch!
  6. Yea, it was a costly mistake we made on our vehicles that wherent being driven, thats for damn sure! No one to blame but our selfs though!
  7. You better check that intelli charger periodicly. Had 3 different vehicle's worth of batteries go to shit because they randomly faulted out and took the battery banks out on my tahoe. my buddies yukon, and his charger. 6+ grand in batteries down the tubes.
  8. Best bet would be a local junkyard unless you can look look up schematics for the dash and get a part number and maybe then find them online. Junk yard would be easiest and cheapest though.
  9. Not going to lie watching the shop go from the backyard to a huge building you thought was too big for you to now being overflowing with nice machines is addicting to see. Just the evolution alone bro!! Congrats! Still need to make it out their sometime in this lifetime. Its been a few years since ces!
  10. You can only strap amps that are designed to be strapped.
  11. These seem cool. I wonder what it would do for wattage if you put two 9 volt batteries in series hooked up to it, or if you built 2 and tried to bridge them together. lol
  12. Oh wow! I didn't even know AudioControl made home audio gear! Im so out of the loop on home stuff, my surround sound receiver don't even have hdmi in/out, all composite rca. LOL
  13. Not all amps share a ground from the chassis to the RCA inputs or the speaker outputs, where as some amps the ground wire input is connected to the rca input to the speaker output there is no break in the signal. The old instructions when the first DD-1s came out you where told to use the negative power wire for the negative probe, then some where it got switched, but still some amps with tiffany style rca inputs that dont work on and you need to use the amps ground for the probe and not the negative output. Ive ran across this issue so many times, and Ive been using all my smd tools for years. I actually have the 4th DD-1 and CC-1 made before they where released publicly
  14. So it is Saturday, and some times people do not work on Saturdays so not getting an instant response from a company is usually a fairly common thing. How did you connect the CC-1 and or DD-1 test probes to the amp? Sometimes with some amplifiers you must use the negative probe of the DD-1/CC-1 on the negative speaker output of the amp. Sometimes you must use the negative probe of the DD-1/CC-1 on the negative power wire of the amp. This really depends on the amp, the type of RCA inputs on the amp, if the amp uses a differential style rca connection, the type of class the amp maybe such as class a a/b, d, full bridge or half bridge etc. It can vary a lot from what Ive noticed over the years tuning amps. Also where you using the left channel or the right channel? Sometimes it doesn't matter, sometimes you have to use the left channel or right channel. I cant remember the reasoning behind this but iirc I remember it being explained in the manual or in a post by Tony D'amore. So try both channels! Also make sure there are no crossovers being used on the 4 channel amp, make sure that all settings on the amplifier are set to Fullpass and not Highpass or Lowpass. Same goes for the headunit, disable/turn off any sort of high pass filter on the head unit, turn any EQ settings to flat, and turn Bass, Midrange, and Treble to 0 or flat. So go through the steps and try different things. Read the instruction manual because there is a lot of useful information in there. There is no problem with the DD-1/CC-1 because you said they worked fine to do the sub amp so that leaves it to be something you are either doing wrong, or due to something with the amp that requires it to be hooked up differently. Report back once you tried the above things I mentioned. -Brian
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