audiofanaticz

So because he has 2 giant 33inch subs its a home SPL system and not a home theater?? LMAO He has a 9.2.2.4 Surround system with 9 surround speakers, 2 subs, 2 transducers, and 4 atmos speakers. All are Klipsch speakers besides the 2 B2 33" subs, 19 channels of Audiocontrol amplification being driven by an Audiocontrol DSP of which all this is made and designed for home theater use... But I guess again this is not home theater, maybe the 98" Bravia TV isnt large enough and he needs a projector to have a home theater...

There is a map posted of people that have them and probably fairly local to you that will allow you to use them or will do it for you.

Your problem is more than likely what Joe said with your amp not being crossed over and allowing dangerous frequencies through, so when using the DD-1 for the tweeter and mid channels make sure your amp has the HPF turned on while leaving the crossover dials flat. Though it could also sound like the built in channel summing on the LC7i isn't sending out a fully summed signal for one reason or another which is needed. I would check with a test speaker to make sure you have a full pass signal coming out of each of your channels of the amp and that it isnt still using the oem radio/amp crossover settings.

Just ordered more the other day and it came today!!

That is also another possibility as well, sometimes just removing the screwdriver after setting it is enough to make a difference. Even if you think you barely bumped it you can change it. When I was driving my truck my amps would have to be rechecked every few weeks due to this and it got annoying fast, I even thought about squirting a little hot glue on the knobs after tuning..

With out knowing the system layout and all the components in the system its a crapshoot at best on why. Maybe something with your radio settings got changed, subwoofer output volume, bass settings, or crossover on the headunit got changed since you set it. Maybe you set the amp at a different volume setting, maybe the remote bass knob wasn't all the way up, maybe your batteries are not fully charged and its creating less power. It should have nothing to do with it being a lithium or agm issue. There's so many actual possibilities to why its testing different from when you first set it up.

drooooooooooooools

Did it work? Chances are a lot of these LOC boxes just add constant distortion right off the bat to the signal with minimal to no volume and no matter what level you have the gains adjusted on the LOCs so you will never get a clean reading. Your best bet would be to find the maximum volume level of the factory radio using the speaker wires you will use to tap into the LOC with (without the LOC hooked up) just so you know you have a solid accurate reading. Then go ahead and hook up the LOC and use the DD-1 on the rca outputs of the LOC, turn the radio up to the the volume that you just previously found with 0 gain settings on the LOC and slowly turn them up until distortion is reached (that is if it doesn't show instant distortion). If all is still good with no distortion find the max on the LOC, then hook up the DD-1 to the amplifier and slowly turn the gain from 0 up to distortion. This is really the best way to go about it, sure it is a few more steps but this way your checking all the bases to ensure it's a good signal at every step of the line when you have multiple adjustments that can be made. If you have distortion right away from the LOC then I would invest in a better LOC, not all of them are poor quality but a lot of them are. I know Meade has done a few videos on the cheap ones that just constantly output pure distortion making the DD-1 useless because there is no way around it, but he also done a video on quality ones that are good to use. I think Kicker made a halfway decent one that was under $30. I personally love the AudioControl LC2i and are my gotos for simple single sub amp installs as they offer a little more adjustment and the ability to run a remote bass knob on the newer ones but they are typically $90-120

Usually the negative speaker wire output is fine to use, however on some amps if it don't work then the negative battery terminal will work as well. Most amps the negative speaker terminal and the negative battery terminal are tied together, but thats not always the case and thats really the only time you need to use the negative terminal or vice versa.

If Im understanding you correct it sounds like you pressed the "read" button before switching to the 40hz overlap track, if you press read before the proper track (even if its the same freq) you will get a different outcome.

the 2 above replies are spam

The only times I've seen people having issues using a DD-1 or a CC-1 is when they can't read the manual and insist they know what they are doing as soon as they open the package for the first time. These people usually are quick to jump on the forums time and time again asking questions why this doesn't work, or how do you do that, etc and everything they are asking about is clearly written in the manual. Now I'm not saying thats the case with you, but I've never heard of anyone competent having issues using a usb, bluetooth, or an aux in for a source making the dd-1 not work. It's simply not possible because the DD-1 has no idea what source you're using and its completely irrelevant. You could be using a vintage 8-track player plugged in with a 3.5mm jack and as long as there is a 40hz and 1000hz test tone being played on the 8track the DD-1 won't know the difference. Now in the case of a cheap radio with a low preout voltage like 1volt the signal won't be strong enough to detect directly through the rca, however all you do in that situation is test it through the amp, with the amp gain all the way down and crossovers fully open and then you'll get a reading. Honestly this is the best way to test because its a lot quicker and you're not having to unplug and plug in cables, then connect the leads to the amp, etc. 1 hookup and a few different tracks and you're done! You cant set an amp using a multi meter, well you can but you're either short changing yourself or your possibly clipping it. Every amp is not made the same, there are tolerances in components and those tolerance can cause an amp to make more power or less power even though its the same brand and model amp as another. Some of the old Rockford Fosgate BD4000 amps would make 4200 watts rms while others would make 5100 watts rms. Now that I think about it the newer BDCP2500 series are the same way. The problem is say the manufacture says you need 60 volts AC to reach the "rated" output of the amp, but lets say your amp is one that does way more than its rated power and it can easily do up to 76 volts AC clean without distortion, but you have no way knowing that because the multimeter has no way to tell you when you reach 1% THD. The same can happen in the reverse order where said amp doesnt perform as well as the others and at 60 volts AC you are clipping the living snot out of it but once again that multimeter has no way to tell you that you passed the amps threshold. Those 800/8v2's make some serious power, more than what they are rated for, and I know this because besides that JL MM105 that was $750 I picked up the MM40 remote headunit, a 800/8v2, a XDM1000/1, and a few sets of M3 and M6 coaxles, along with a a M7-12 IB sub for this install I've been working on. It's kinda senseless to buy a tool only to not use it for its intended method and use the outdated multimeter method but you do you as long as you're happy with the performance.

Many headunits will not have distortion when using the rca preouts of the headunit. Usually the only radios that will distort on the rca preouts are the cheaper headunits that are like $150, or if you are using the internal amplifier of a headunit. So being that you have a $400+ marine headunit it's most likely distortion free on the preouts. I just installed a JL Audio MM105 with 12 rca preouts and that is clean all the way up as well.

well this is a fairly old topic that got bumped. Wonder how these build is going.....

In all honesty I would wire the amp up at 2.66 ohms. The Salt 8k will still do around 6000watts rms at that ohm load, and even then you are going to be stressing your electrical system with that amp being wired at 2.66 ohms, but its going to be a hell of a lot safer and way less risk of you popping the amp until you're able to upgrade your electrical system to match the amps needs. Besides those MTX 9500 subs are nothing crazy and only rated for 1,000 watts rms, and I'm more than certain that once you upgrade your electrical and wire that amp to .67 those subs will be blown in the first 10 minutes because for all that size and heft they have they can't really take power that great. Just wire two sets of 3 subs in parallel, then take the 2 sets and run them in series to give you 2.66 ohms.

The amp should handle that impedance just fine, however your electrical system is no where near up to par for it, and you will most likely blow the amp because it will be starved for juice. That amp can do just shy of 12,000watts rms @ 1ohm certified on the SMD Amp Dyno (AD-1) so your looking at 1200+ amps of current full tilt. When I was using my 6 XS Power D3100s in the back and 2 XS Power S3400s and 3 DC Power 390XP alternators under the hood of my Tahoe (before swapping to lithium batteries) with 9 runs of 1/0 positive and 9 runs of 1/0 negative wire from the front batteries to the back batteries I was having massive voltage drop into the low 11's when i cracked the volume up with just 2 Sundown SAZ-4500D amps wired at .35 each. That's less potential power than the Salt 8, with like 5 times more electrical than you have.

Those look clean as sh!t!

The boot changes nothing in terms of quality, performance, usability, or anything else. Its purely there for cosmetics and to protect the magnet.

I use to have a similar Pioneer headunit a long time ago in my supercharged Thunderbird but it had the larger volume button on the bottom that matched the Deq-7600, at least I think that was the model number (it was prior to the autoeq Pioneer released), Still wish I kind of had both of them because the headunit had a small animated spectrum analyzer as well as the eq which took up the whole screen. So I totally understand with keeping those old gems! Headunits just ain't made like they use to be in terms of screen candy on the displays granted they have more features now even though they are plain to look at!!! Now when you say your gain knob to 100% do you mean the physical gain on the amp itself, or a remote gain knob that plugs into the amp? You'll have 2 drastically different outcomes depending on which way you went or what you did. I can guarantee that the headunit nor the eq is not the problem and is something with how you tuned your amp. Chances are high that the Epicenter is also not the problem since the problem seems to happen even when you're not using it but it just takes longer. It really sounds like you are over driving the amp and reaching either thermal protect, too much input voltage on the rca side of things, or a improperly set gain from possibly not following the instructions of the DD-1 and using a -5db through -10db track when setting the amplifier gain.

Really it doesn't matter too much since its not going to change anything else in your system so its more on your preference. If you tuned your amp with the 8db overlap and you want the vu-din to light up red when you start to clip your amp then use a 8db track. Some people may not want to see the red light up at all and will back off the adjustment just a little bit so it only lights up red when you are going in to hard clipping. Where as others will set it up so that it hits the red mark a little before you go in to clipping. Play with it a little and see how you like it for yourself.

Wrong, I still cant understand how people think this or maybe you worded it wrong but the DD-1 will NEVER measure clipping. You will have distortion long before clipping is ever seen on an oscilloscope. Once the red light on the DD-1 lights up you hit 1% THD so by the time the wave is becoming deformed on an oscilloscope you are so far beyond that 1% THD that the DD-1 is looking for.

Yes, you can and should use the DD-1 on your DSP as well. Treat your DSP as a headunit, use the 0db tone and the appropriate tone for the appropriate channel outputs (IE, 1khz for front/rear dedicated dsp outputs, and 40hz for dedicated sub outputs on your dsp), this way you have the maximum clean a/c voltage output from your DSP. Also make sure all EQs on the DSP are flat when doing this as well! Now the one thing to be careful of is the a/c voltage output, you don't want to set it higher than your amps inputs can handle, so after tuning with the DD-1 you may want to check the rca a/c voltage output of the DSP because the DSP can and will take your 4v rca signal and turn it into 6-9+ volts output. So if your amps can only handle a 5volt input then you will want to back the voltage down some on the DSP, and then go and match voltage for each output. Then use the DD-1 on your amplifiers using the appropriate tones with your desired gain overlap setting (-5db, -10db, etc). I think my Audison Bitone DSP was putting out 11.7 volts clean when tuned with my DD-1 but I backed all the levels down to 4.5volts that I verified with my multimeter and then I have my amp gains up about 1/8, its very very little.

This is a under seat box I built last summer for a guy with a pair of the newest X-8's on a Sundown SFB-2000 in a 05 GMC Sierra without doing a seat lift. I built the box a tad larger than spec (cant remember exact size I would need to find my box plans if I still have them) for increased efficiency and to get tuning a little lower than due to limitations on the port length. No issues what so ever. Granted going larger then recommended can turn to a nightmare fast if you don't know what you're doing or know what to listen for mechanically wise on the sub(s). So for the SA-8s if they are the V3 series I probably wouldn't go anything larger than 0.4 - 0.7 cubic feet larger for both subs together. So ideally 1.9 - 2.2 cubic feet after sub/port/bracing displacement is subtracted for your 940ish watts you have. If you go too much larger than that you could potentially run into unloading issues but its hard to say since your not giving the subs their full rms wattage.

One is most likely older than the other. Sundown is known to have small revisions in their lineups from time to time to improve on small things that are not large enough to call it a whole new version.