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audiofanaticz

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Everything posted by audiofanaticz

  1. ^^^ Yup, especially when your on a tiny island surrounded by salty ocean like he is because that process is nothing but sped up with that salty moist air!
  2. I dunno about that... The amplified Bose 10 speaker Dolby Digital 5.1 surround sound system that is in my Cadillac CTS is complete crap, and Ive blown the stock sub twice now. However I just did a simple Alpine Type X 10 inch sub and a Type X 900wrms amp install on a 2015 Porsche Panamera twin turbo with a 14 speaker Bose Dolby Digital 5.1 setup a few weeks ago and my jaw dropped on how well it sounded, crisp highs and rather rich and deep mids, the bass was rather lacking though since I was there to install a sub, but once installed it was great. I am still baffled by how shitty my Cadillacs Bose system is but how great the Porsche Bose system was and this was the basic audio option for the Porsche, the higher end option comes with a few more speakers and more power from Burmester. That being said, it comes down to the car manufacture and how much they want to invest in the "upgraded" audio, and not so much the brand of audio being used such as Bose, because I've never heard a GM vehicle with a Bose system that sounded anything close to this Porsche!
  3. Unplug the bass knob from the amp and see if output changes. With the knob unplugged from the amp it should be as loud as it is while plugged in turned all the way up. If it gets louder than what it is when plugged in and turned all the way up then the knob the cable or both have went bad. But you got to unplug it from the amp itself, and don't just unplug the knob from the cable leaving the cable still attached to the amp.
  4. All the extra couple of cuts to make a square port and the additional time to assemble it compared to a just putting 2 similar sized pieces pieces together for a standard L port that's the full height isn't really worth it. You're talking about 140 additional square inches of surface area between the 2 if you go with the simple L port, its not going to make much of a difference at all. Let alone something I would be worrying about in an musical application or even on the meter because it would be like 1/10 of a db if that I bet if you were to build both and test both boxes. Plus a full height port is going to help stiffen the box and act some what as a brace between the bottom of the box and top baffle of the box, where as a square port won't add much structural integrity at all. Joes design seems fairly stout and already giving slightly more port area and box net volume than the default design Sundown advertises for their sub on their site so that should be a nice small bump in efficiency right there, but at the end of the day its your build.
  5. I don't know how you can draw stuff up so nice like that Joe, that would seriously take me like an hour plus to do!! I just rough draw a layout with pencil and paper on boxes I build and thats always been good enough for me, but then again I guess thats all I really need because I know the assembly order and which panel attaches to which panel on what side because I've been building long enough and can just see it in my brain without actual blueprints.
  6. So back to the side firing with a round/aero/octo port if your port diameter is 6 inches, then you will want the space between the outside of your box and your wheel well to be at least half that which would be 3 inches. 8 inch port then 4 inches between the box and wheel well and so on. So if you have 6 inches between the box and wheel well you would be set to run up to a 12 inch diameter port theoretically, now by no means am I saying you need a 12 inch port I'm just giving you a basic guideline to work with because there's a lot of other things that can change things too. Typically sub up port back is always the go to for suv's, hatchback's, van's, and other open cargo area vehicles in musical applications. Now having the port opening in the middle of the back of the box, along the bottom of the back of the box, or on one side or another of the back of the box can change outcomes as well. Now as far as which is better or will be louder there's no real way to answer that except build a box of every variation and test, but again since this is a musical application and not something that goes burrrrrrp for 5 seconds that is rather wasteful to do because those few tenths of a db to even a full db that one way could be louder compared to another won't be audible to your ear. That being said, I hate having to wrap a port around a box and put more bends in it than needed, I also hate splitting a port like that even more then put more bends in it. Whenever I do a slot port I will have the port run either the full height or full width of the box unless the port area needed is so little that It wouldn't be practical being a something silly narrow like 1/2 or 3/4 inch wide, and thats when I would move over to an aeroport or even just a piece of pvc. That being said if your run the port along the full width or full height of the box and use 3 of the exterior box walls as part of your port walls you can usually make the port narrower while still getting the port area you're after and potentially not run into clearance issues with the woofer. Now like I think I said in my other post, put performance before looks, this is what is screwing your royally right now because it appears that your heart is set on having the sub in the center of the box and the port in the center of the box and due to that performance is going to take a huge hit one way or another. So these are options I would look in to exploring, and if it was me I would be using the box I circled in yellow and not worry about the woofer/port being centered in the box especially when your running in to clearance issues to get desired port area. Like I said performance > symmetrical looks, especially when those looks can cause you potentially a couple db of output! Now these aint all square and to size ratio etc, I don't got time to sketch up designs, so quick basic MS Paint illustrations is all you get, and you can do all the number crunching and drawing to scale to see if any of these will work best for you, but like I said the one circled in yellow will most likely be your best bet. Box 1 port along the entire bottom width. Box 2 port along the side the full height of the box. box 3 port along the entire side height, but then bends 180 degrees along side itself and this can be repeated back and forth as needed. box 4 triangle port in the corner of the box, can bend it up as needed to get port length for tuning. box 5 triangle port same concept as 4 but one in each corner to get more port area, and then again bend it up for port length to get desired tuning. box 6 sub location on the left side of the box to give adequate room for port area/length, port along the side of the box the full height of the box, and bent to get desired port length for tuning, and if wanted/needed you could fold the port along side itself like in Box 3 instead of making an L shaped port. Like I said crunch the numbers, draw it up this box will be your best bet.
  7. Another option for a port is doing an "octoport", but it will be more work and take more time to build it compared to a typical slot port. However you kind of get the best of both worlds in a sense because you're able to dial in the exact amount of port area that is wanted/needed like you do with a slot port, and since the port is more less rounder like an aero/tube port you have less inner port wall which means less surface tension for the air to pass over which is part of the reason round ports like aeros can be more efficient when used properly. Plus octoports can look cool when done right even though performance should always come before looks.
  8. 8 or 10 inch aero. https://www.bigass-ports.com/ Also I am hoping that the big tub for the subwoofer is just a mistake, you really wouldn't want a tube around the woofer inside a box, unless and only unless you have a massive enclosure or wall with multiple woofers and you are having crazy unloading issues. On a single sub enclosure that would never be a problem and will cause efficiency issues more than likely and hinder box performance.
  9. The reason was already said... Your alternator is controlled by the vehicles computer. The alternator is designed to turn off until a large enough load is presented on the alternator (such as but not limited too having your heated seats, hvac, etc turned on). So when the electrical demand is not sensed by the vehicle the alternator will turn off full and not charge until your voltage gets low (in the mid 11 volt range), if voltage drops below the setpoint for an extended period of time the alternator will turn on and start charging again. So ideally you need to run your amps ground wire through the clamp meter that measures the current under the hood, which is not a for sure fix because the computer is programed to control the alternator a certain way, and the problem with bass is its not a constant consistent demand, it has peaks and valleys, or ripples of current so running the ground wire through the clamp might not even do anything because its not a constant consistent voltage/amperage draw like other high power use things are such as heated seats or hvac, etc. You will most likely need to bypass the the pcm to have your alternator charging all the time, which will most likely through a battery light on the dash. Some alt companies make harnesses to bypass the pcm control and the harness will turn off the idiot light too, so your best be would be to start calling/emailing places like Mechman, Singer Alternators, US Alternators, Brand X Electrical, Dc Power Engineering, Custom Electric Service, JS Alternator, to see if anyone offers a harness that can do just that, or if they can build you an aftermarket alt to fix this issue.
  10. The gold standard is really the Technics SL-1200, theres like 9 different generations of them though from the 70s up to like 2009 or something. The SP-10 is good as well but they are also expensive, then again soo is a SL-1200.
  11. Do you have any idea how old your wire is? Heat is caused by 1 of 3 things typically. 1- Corrosion, and there's a few different ways this can happen such as the moist salty air, or because 2 different types of metals that are connected to each other are attacking each other. While corrosion won't kill the power flow fully it will definitely hinder the ability to transfer power from point A to point B due to the increased resistance in the connection which can cause heat. I had a friend who ran out of 1/0 so he bought a 4 feet of name brand CCA from the local shop just to get his Sundown SCV-4000 playing, a week later the amp blew and the terminals were all melted. The wire was in there tight and secure and it took a lot of force to pull it out. After inspecting the wire and cutting the casing off the entire piece it was so badly corroded, it was basically aluminum power inside the wire jacket. Went to the shop to check a couple more feet off the spool which was also full of corrosion too! 2- Bad/loose connections, either your set screws in an amplifier or on a fuse holder are too loose or don't have a proper grip on the wire causing a poor contact which will cause excessive amounts of power flow through a smaller piece of wire causing heat. Or you could have a poor quality crimp or solder job on one lug terminal causing the same resistance or even a bad ground on the vehicle that may have rusted which again will cause heat. Anytime you one of those cheap fuse blocks that are all melted it's almost always because someone didn't tighten the wire into or bolt the fuse down tight. You need to check every connection point, every ring terminal, every battery connection, every body/chassis ground, pull on every ring terminal to make sure a wire doesn't pop out, positive wires, negative wires, everything! Don't just look at the connections, grab them with your hands twist it pull it wiggle each and every last one of them!! 3- Wire gauge being inadequate (too small). This reason is pretty straight forward, but seeing that you're using quality wire and the amplifier specs call for the gauge wire you're using, and you said the wire is rather short then non of these should be the issue causing heat. Like I said before with such a short piece of 4awg wire you can pass several hundreds of amps of current through it without stressing the wire, same goes for any wire for that matter. If you take a piece of 1/0 awg that is rated at 300 amps of current that rating is given with a length typically around 17-20 feet. So if you take a 10 foot piece of the same 1/0 awg wire you can safely send 600 amps through it because the distance is shorter. There becomes a point of time where adding more runs of wire, or even using those dual power inputs for your amp(s) start to serve no real purpose in many applications because of the dimension returns. This is becoming even more so now with how tech has been growing around super caps and lithium batteries and the power that can be discharged so quickly, but you will still have people that will go overkill on these things and use dual inputs just so they can get a 0.05volt gain.
  12. Then its tinned, and it shouldn't really have any corrasion issues unless you have lugs installed and not terminated properly. A piece of 4 awg wire that is a foot long can easily handle 300amps of current without failing. So it would probably be wise to go over every connection in your wiring.
  13. The better question is what brand and what type of wire is every piece of wire in the car?
  14. Why now? Because you live on an island surround by saltwater. Its most likely corrosion which can also cause heat and things to melt like Snow said. Due to you being in Hawaii silver tinned OFC (aka marine grade wire) is a must. Solid lugs that are crimped and covered with adhesive lined heatshrink over the solid lugs is also a must due to where you live.
  15. I just searched for is searched broken and got 0 results, so I guess it is. Hmmm Looks like the last update a couple months ago might have taken it out because it uses PHP7.2 and we are currently on PHP7.4 which is now going EOL and need to update to PHP8.0. Thats beyond my paygrade though and will forward the memo of it not working. Thanks edit again, looks like she is fixed
  16. The turning your ac, heated seats, etc on was just so you can put load on the electrical system and visually see that your car is fine and normal and that once the system notices that load then it turns on and charges at normal voltages because you think its broken when its not. You just never paid attention to it until recently doing things in your vehicle and are now freaking out about it because you think you messed something up. Also its worth mentioning that upgrading the wire size through it is not needed in his case for a 1000wrms amp. The fact that the amp is grounded through the chassis and not on the batteries negative terminal (before the sensor), than that sensor will be measuring the current demand of the amplifier as well.. That 50 watts of amplifier power you'll be missing because its at 12.3 volts instead of 14 will not even be noticeable to you, and not really something I would concern myself with unless you upgrade to a larger amp thats 2000-2500 watts. If you want to do anything upgrade the factory battery to an XS Power battery which will hold a slightly higher voltage over a stock battery and also be able to discharge more current, but even then I don't see it being worth it for such a small system. The factory positive and negative wire from the alt are rather short and due to that can easily and safely handle the current demand of that amplifier. Your biggest hinder is going to be using quality OFC wire and not CCA wire, as well as a quality grounding location that is mounted with a bolt/nut and paint scrapped away for a solid metal on metal contact.
  17. It measures current, positive or negative current is going to be the same result. If your pulling for instance 50 amps on a positive wire you will also be pulling 50 amps on the negative wire. That sensor does not monitor if it is positive or negative current. They chose to use the ground wire for simplicity of doing it in such they can monitor 1 wire and monitor the entire electrical draw of the vehicle because anything and everything is going to feed off of a chassis ground at one point or another. Where as the positive wire is snaked through the entire car that splits off to so many other electronic items. So many 2001 up vehicles have 3-6 different positive wires coming off the battery but only 1 ground, that is why the negative terminal is monitored. So if that clamp sensor was large enough to fit around all the main positive wires and you swapped it to positive (even though it was monitoring negative) the car would have no idea what you did and would function normally. Current is current, it doesn't make a difference if its positive or negative when measuring current.
  18. Since you made 2 posts for no apparent reason and I told you why in the other post I will merge both together..
  19. So if you have been building this for a few years, have you been using it that entire time, or now just trying to use it? If you have been using it then how did you have video output prior to buying a new video card then returning it and buying another and still no video output? I'm assuming you also have the 8 pin cpu power plugged in on the top of the mobo, right? Were you using another card that worked, or were you using the onboard video? Have you tried the card in all 3 of the different PCI-E slots? Typically the top one is default, but it could be a bad slot. I know the top 2 PCI-e are 3.0 slots controlled by your CPU while the bottom PCI-e slot is a 2.0 controlled by the mobo chipset. Have you plugged in the additional 8 pin power plug from your power supply to your video card? Without the additional power plugged in to the card it will not work, the most it will do if anything is make the fans spin and light up any possible led lights it may have. Have you entered bios to make sure that the PCI-e slots are not disabled? Have you tried to clear cmos/reset bios to the factory settings? Have you updated/flashed bios to a updated version? That board is a few years old and there maybe something goofy with the default outdated bios that is not allowing a PCI-e 4.0 card work. I'm aware that a 4.0 card should work, at 3.0 or even 2.0 speeds on an older board but sometimes bios just have strange glitches like that. These are a few things I would check/try that I can think of off the top of my head.
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