audiofanaticz

I told him I would tow the DGAF Toyota back home from Cali to Wi and keep her alive and finish it off, and he was all for it. but he didnt want to give the subs and amps with it. Tried explaining that it wouldnt be the DGAF Toyota if it doesnt have the DGAF gear, but he wasnt buying into it. LOL

look like some nice new tables about to be turned black Seen the livestream earlier, know your complaining about time, so send me a ticket so I can come gut the Civic and the DGAF Toyota for ya.

You should also be able to fit 49 inches wide between the wheel wells. It will save you a few cuts if your using MDF since it comes at 49 inch widths. The carpet and padding underneath the carpet will flatten a fair bit allowing for 49. I havent ran across a tahoe or yukon of any generation yet that it didnt fit, unless your talking a 2018 but then I still think you should be fine. I would check it out, because that is a fair bit of wasted airspace your giving up otherwise, especially if your trying to stay under window line.

Airspace isn't just airspace, and it changes how the wavelength acts. From what I have experienced is as the depth shrinks the frequency response of the enclosure flattens out some. However this is usually at 100+ hz so its rather useless since most people will have a low pass crossover set at 70-80hz. Subwoofer placement on the baffle and its location to where the port opening inside the enclosure is something to worry about a little more because you dont want your woofer firing straight into the port opening. Standing waves are something not to be concerned with on a subwoofer enclosure, it would be completely different if you where talking midrange, or higher frequencies in general. Granted things change when inside the vehicle, but usually it wont be anything too noticeable by ear from example a to example b, that is if everything spec wise stays the same such as airspace, tuning, port area, etc. Now if this was something you where doing for strictly SPL you would be building a lot of test boxes and changing things 1 thing at a time and retesting. As for the pole vent clearance, generally as long as you have the diameter of the vent for space behind the box you are okay. So if its a 3/4 inch pole vent you ideally want the back plate of the woofer 3/4 inches away from the wood. The pole vent is for cooling so its distance shouldn't effect output of the sub/enclosure, but having it in a shallower enclosure can.

I would almost use an epoxy over CA glue. CA can be strong, but it can also be very brittle depending on what type your using, and how much accelerator is used. I would possibly try getting epoxy between the rivet and panel that your installing the rivet to before compressing it.

That is a similar design to what I have done in my tahoe for my 6th order wall except the port length extends through the triangle a and enters the center chamber with both firing forward, and there is no big angle. It seems to do alright and gets nasty low. It needs to be played with more though for full power because I need to shrink the subs chambers a bit or actually buy the high xmax subs that I actually designed it around like I planned to. So that style should work if you done everything correct, granted I dont have the time to crunch your measurements either.

Over fusing alone can take longer for the fuse to pop in case of a short. So if your running 1/0 and your amps rating is 200 amps, why fuse the wire to 300+ amps? If you want to get real anal about fusing like I do it, I put my clamp meter on each of the positive runs of wire and measure the current over a burp which will be the only time the amplifier will pull its max current. I then fuse each run of wire to the closest I can. So in my truck I got all 9 of my 1/0 power wires fused at 150 amps. Never a blown fuse, and if an issue arises the fuses will blow almost instantly instead of waiting for a 300+ amp fuse to blow. So many misconceptions about fuses, I dont understand where people come up with some of this stuff.. Using a smaller fuse will not impact resistance much if at all unless your pushing the fuse to its limit. Using a larger fuse will not make you gain more power, get louder, etc. That is unless your currently under fused to begin with and are constantly blowing fuses. Just because a fuse is rated for say 300 amps doesn't mean it will blow once it sees 300 amps. The truth is it will probably take 400+ amps of current for 5, 10, maybe even 15 seconds before it blows (every fuse will be different, even if they are the same size/style). Fuses do not protect your amp, if your amp is going to blow, it will blow regardless of a fuse 9 times out of 10. A fuses job is just to protect the wire, hence why you should install the fuse(s) as close to the batteries as possible. Side note for people using circuit breakers if you ever trip them, or trip them occasionally be aware that they get a tad weaker each time they fault and will begin to trip easier due to the arching that eats away the contact when you turn them off/on. This is also the same for AC breakers in your home, and relay switches as well that will either get stuck on or stuck off because the contacts can weld themselves together. So if your turning a breaker back on you should always make sure everything that said breaker powers is turned off to prolong its life. Another thing many people with rear additional battery setups never realize either is that the amp will draw its power from the closest source with least resistance. This is often times the rear battery bank. That rear battery bank is a HUGE buffer to your electrical system and lightens the load on your primary power wires that run from the front to the back tremendously. So when the bass note hits your amplifier will pull from rear battery first, than through the wire to your front battery, than through the big 3 wiring to your alternator. This is why people with clamp meters nor auto part stores with a cart that they wheel out to your vehicle to test the alternator cant. Well they can but neither you or them cant load the alternator down enough to demand the alternator to produce its full current. That is unless you disconnect almost all of your batteries and then put the amps under a max load, or have your own load bank to do just that.

You want to use a ring terminal with a 5/16 inch hole, same goes for the speaker box terminals as well.

Ive been looking for a dashcam too, so far the best I can figure out is the Blackvue DR900S-1CH or the Blackvue DR900S-2CH which adds a rear camera. 4k 30fps, h265 compression, gps, built in speed/location, cloud backup, impact detection, motion detection, 2.4ghz and 5ghz wifi, optional hardwire kit, optional battery backup kit, comes with a 16gb card (can support a 128gb card but dont buy it with the camera because you can get it cheaper elsewhere). From everything Ive read and watched if buying a dashcam the Blackvue DR900s-1/2CH is what to get. Watch the side by side comparison video for quality vs other dashcams that get shit all over.

12v cold/agm

Fi audio who use to OEM (build) the upper lines of SSA (such as the Evil, Xcon, Dcon or whatever the models are) stopped building woofers for other companies to focus on their own products such as Fi and Ascendant audio. So that means SSA has no current buildhouse to build their subs, but Im sure they are in talks with another supplier to build for them and put the SSA name on them. So most likely what they have listed is what they have left in stock

Any sub can blow if you clip it to hell, that being said 1000 watt rms amp on a 1300 watt rms sub should be fine if the amp is set correctly.