audiofanaticz

There is a map posted of people that have them and probably fairly local to you that will allow you to use them or will do it for you.

The new DS18 SMD amps are nice as well, picking up a couple soon for a build!!

Hook the amps positive and negative to the closest battery (IE the one in your trunk). Current flows from the path of least resistance and that would be the battery in your trunk and not a botched collaboration of the 2 in some big ol loopty loop. Just connect both batteries together in parallel positive to positive and negative to negative with the amp(s) connected to the nearest battery.

Sounds like the cable is not fully plugged in one end or the other, or maybe it got damaged some how, either pulled on too hard during the install, pinched, cut, etc. Email Sundown and Im sure they will get you taken care of with a replacement!

Your problem is more than likely what Joe said with your amp not being crossed over and allowing dangerous frequencies through, so when using the DD-1 for the tweeter and mid channels make sure your amp has the HPF turned on while leaving the crossover dials flat. Though it could also sound like the built in channel summing on the LC7i isn't sending out a fully summed signal for one reason or another which is needed. I would check with a test speaker to make sure you have a full pass signal coming out of each of your channels of the amp and that it isnt still using the oem radio/amp crossover settings.

Unless you're buying an externally regulated alternator you will not need a regulator. I also don't suggest running an externally regulated alternator anyways since mostly only people in competition that need 16-18volt charging systems use them, and not everyday daily drivers. Really all you need is said high output alternator, upgrade your cables like you said with 1/0 gauge, and typically a shorter serpentine belt that is about 1/2 inch shorter (sometimes 1 inch shorter). The length of the built really depends on where your belt tensioner rests with the oem alt and where it changes too with the high output alt that has a smaller pulley. So it maybe a good idea to mark it with a sharpie so you can see the difference. If your belt is too long then your tensioner will not properly tension under certain loads causing for a loose belt and belt slip.

Just find images of the cables for sale for them, look at the ends. Almost every cable is reversed no matter which brand.

They are reversed! So it should be |Blue Yellow Green Red Black White|-|White Black Red Green Yellow Blue| Of coarse the colors of the wires or what color is used in which position doesn't matter, all that matters is that they are reversed when on the other side.

JL Audio!

You really need to get in the car, and gut all the interior from the B pillar backwards and then grab a tape measure and see what you have for room. Without that no one can really give you specs on what to build because we don't know what kind of room you have to work with. Besides that when building a wall you typically build the shell of it as big and strong as possible, once the shell is built you can than worry about measuring its internal dimensions and coming up with a game plan on what and how to build it.

It's possible to do, but they will most likely want you to send in said alternators and have them do it in house for warranty reasons. They also don't sell parts outright to the public either so that would be another reason you would have to send them in.

Just ordered more the other day and it came today!!

That is also another possibility as well, sometimes just removing the screwdriver after setting it is enough to make a difference. Even if you think you barely bumped it you can change it. When I was driving my truck my amps would have to be rechecked every few weeks due to this and it got annoying fast, I even thought about squirting a little hot glue on the knobs after tuning..

With out knowing the system layout and all the components in the system its a crapshoot at best on why. Maybe something with your radio settings got changed, subwoofer output volume, bass settings, or crossover on the headunit got changed since you set it. Maybe you set the amp at a different volume setting, maybe the remote bass knob wasn't all the way up, maybe your batteries are not fully charged and its creating less power. It should have nothing to do with it being a lithium or agm issue. There's so many actual possibilities to why its testing different from when you first set it up.

drooooooooooooools