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audiofanaticz last won the day on January 25

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  1. Some lithium chemistry's cant be ran with agm or lead acid batteries. The D4S LTO 6.0 can be though, I have a few different people using them with mixed setups using XS Power D3400s as starting batteries and the LTO in the back by the amps with no problems, no isolators, and no other converters like people are rambling about. Now if it was a chemistry that cant be ran with agms, then you would need some sort of isolator, but then its still stupid because you just delete the front battery and run everything off the lithium and be done with it. Which is why you see people build dumb wooden boxes the size of a battery and call it a battery delete, all you really need though is just a distribution hub under the hood to connect the factory 12v electronics too. Simple buss bars do that just fine.
  2. Correct. The reason for so many is due to some people using multiple runs of power wire from the front of the vehicle to the back. In my truck for example I have 9 positive runs of 1/0 and 9 negative runs of 1/0 (18 total) coming from my 3 alts under the hood to the back batteries. So when people have larger systems with over 1600amps worth of alternator charging, multiple 5,000+ watt rms amps, etc one single run of 1/0 or even 4/0 coming from under the hood simply cant handle the current load. Now take into consideration of the length of said wire which reduces its current rating, resistance and voltage drop in the wire, hell even if you're pulling the maximum current limit from whatever wire you're running your going to have to factor in heat and even more resistance. So that is why there's multiple spots for additional wires to be connected so you can adapt to your needs and overcome obstacles and restrictions in the wire. Hopefully that helps.
  3. Your alpine has crossover options for the sub too, and it can do more than that outdated eq from the late 90s can. Just use the alpine, That old eq will probably add noise to the system if you try and use it! 🤣
  4. That is also another possibility as well, sometimes just removing the screwdriver after setting it is enough to make a difference. Even if you think you barely bumped it you can change it. When I was driving my truck my amps would have to be rechecked every few weeks due to this and it got annoying fast, I even thought about squirting a little hot glue on the knobs after tuning..
  5. With out knowing the system layout and all the components in the system its a crapshoot at best on why. Maybe something with your radio settings got changed, subwoofer output volume, bass settings, or crossover on the headunit got changed since you set it. Maybe you set the amp at a different volume setting, maybe the remote bass knob wasn't all the way up, maybe your batteries are not fully charged and its creating less power. It should have nothing to do with it being a lithium or agm issue. There's so many actual possibilities to why its testing different from when you first set it up.
  6. Realistically even with the 2 d3400s under the hood and adding 2 more in the back isn't enough voltage for a Salt 8k when you consider that amp can do 11,000 watts rms if voltage is held in the high 13volt range. Voltage/current is going to come from the path of least resistance, so even with triple runs of 1/0, a 400amp alt, and 2 D3400s under the hood that amp is going to pull most its power from the rear power bank of the vehicle first. Since you said this is for Demos and not playing a 3 second long test tone you will want your voltage stout. So I would go with 2 D3100s if you can fit them not D3400s and 2 Super banks to start. Id also do a couple runs of 1/0 for negative wire front to back as well if you have not already.
  7. I understand what he wants to do, and he is correct this wouldnt work due to the bridge on the one side of the fuse. He wants to use the one fuse for the main power going into the back battery. He wants to use the other fuse on the same fuse holder coming out of the back battery that goes to his amp.
  8. Did it work? Chances are a lot of these LOC boxes just add constant distortion right off the bat to the signal with minimal to no volume and no matter what level you have the gains adjusted on the LOCs so you will never get a clean reading. Your best bet would be to find the maximum volume level of the factory radio using the speaker wires you will use to tap into the LOC with (without the LOC hooked up) just so you know you have a solid accurate reading. Then go ahead and hook up the LOC and use the DD-1 on the rca outputs of the LOC, turn the radio up to the the volume that you just previously found with 0 gain settings on the LOC and slowly turn them up until distortion is reached (that is if it doesn't show instant distortion). If all is still good with no distortion find the max on the LOC, then hook up the DD-1 to the amplifier and slowly turn the gain from 0 up to distortion. This is really the best way to go about it, sure it is a few more steps but this way your checking all the bases to ensure it's a good signal at every step of the line when you have multiple adjustments that can be made. If you have distortion right away from the LOC then I would invest in a better LOC, not all of them are poor quality but a lot of them are. I know Meade has done a few videos on the cheap ones that just constantly output pure distortion making the DD-1 useless because there is no way around it, but he also done a video on quality ones that are good to use. I think Kicker made a halfway decent one that was under $30. I personally love the AudioControl LC2i and are my gotos for simple single sub amp installs as they offer a little more adjustment and the ability to run a remote bass knob on the newer ones but they are typically $90-120
  9. There wont be really any bad that can happen from using them, I would just do an actual load test on them with a load tester. You can buy them fairly cheap from Harbor Freight, like this https://www.harborfreight.com/135-amp-612v-battery-and-system-load-tester-58944.html just so you know that something like a 100amp load wont bring the battery down to like 9 or 10 volts because if thats the case they are junk. If they load test fine you can try and buy a charger that has a reconditioning mode like a Noco Genius or CTEK, XS Power also offers the PSC series chargers iirc that have a recondition mode too, so you maybe able to bring some of the health back to them. Steve Meade also sells XS Power batteries too on his store/site wccaraudio.com but as long as you go with his site, JPs site down4soundshop.com, or even skyhighcaraudio.com where stock is constantly being rotated so you'll get a fresh new battery that hasn't sat for years youll be good.
  10. Usually the negative speaker wire output is fine to use, however on some amps if it don't work then the negative battery terminal will work as well. Most amps the negative speaker terminal and the negative battery terminal are tied together, but thats not always the case and thats really the only time you need to use the negative terminal or vice versa.
  11. So those are dirtier than I figured they where, but I was hoping that was the issue. It sounds like the batteries have acid stratification meaning that the batteries sat at 80ish percent or below of a full charge for some time (who knows how long they sat in Amazons warehouse before being shipped. This basically doesn't allow the cells to be fully charged even when placed on a charger and the charger just stops when it thinks its charged because the upper part of the cells are damaged due to sulfation. At this point if its not already too late I would return them to that seller on amazon and buy from a store that rotates stock out a lot more frequently, or contact XS Power first and go from there. https://4xspower.com/warranties/ or reach out to both. If contacting XS Power directly link to this thread so they can see first hand that you charged and tested the batteries prior to installing them like their directions state. Edit: I will forward this thread to Scotty @ XS Power to see if he has any idea in the meantime but he is a very busy man.
  12. the bolt on sae style posts look very corroded imo, can could be making bad contact on the battery pads, could also be making bad contact on those aluminum bars as well, or one or the other or both could be some what loose. I say this because both testers are showing a tad bit different voltage, cca, and resistance that is about typically double to almost triple of what XS batteries are typically known for they usually come in with a internal resistance of under 2. So this screams poor connection to me. I would take some sand paper and clean up those posts, ensure a proper connection to the battery, and retest without those aluminum bars. No idea on who the seller was from Amazon and if they are an authorized seller but if still testing bad I would try contacting Byron at XS Power.
  13. If Im understanding you correct it sounds like you pressed the "read" button before switching to the 40hz overlap track, if you press read before the proper track (even if its the same freq) you will get a different outcome.
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