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audiofanaticz last won the day on February 17

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  1. Chances are high that you 3k amplifier is only a 600 watt amplifier too!
  2. Well if you compete and depending on the class that you compete in, some classes have a rule that the box must be under the window line otherwise it is considered a wall. The window line rule is based off the front door window line however which can sometimes be a different height than rear windows. Also some people just don't want a tall box sticking up so high that is in plan view for everyone to see, plus in all honesty it can be rather ugly in some cases. Some people with suv's also like to be able to put the cargo cover over the box to hide it if your vehicle has one of those.
  3. The only times I've seen people having issues using a DD-1 or a CC-1 is when they can't read the manual and insist they know what they are doing as soon as they open the package for the first time. These people usually are quick to jump on the forums time and time again asking questions why this doesn't work, or how do you do that, etc and everything they are asking about is clearly written in the manual. Now I'm not saying thats the case with you, but I've never heard of anyone competent having issues using a usb, bluetooth, or an aux in for a source making the dd-1 not work. It's simply not possible because the DD-1 has no idea what source you're using and its completely irrelevant. You could be using a vintage 8-track player plugged in with a 3.5mm jack and as long as there is a 40hz and 1000hz test tone being played on the 8track the DD-1 won't know the difference. Now in the case of a cheap radio with a low preout voltage like 1volt the signal won't be strong enough to detect directly through the rca, however all you do in that situation is test it through the amp, with the amp gain all the way down and crossovers fully open and then you'll get a reading. Honestly this is the best way to test because its a lot quicker and you're not having to unplug and plug in cables, then connect the leads to the amp, etc. 1 hookup and a few different tracks and you're done! You cant set an amp using a multi meter, well you can but you're either short changing yourself or your possibly clipping it. Every amp is not made the same, there are tolerances in components and those tolerance can cause an amp to make more power or less power even though its the same brand and model amp as another. Some of the old Rockford Fosgate BD4000 amps would make 4200 watts rms while others would make 5100 watts rms. Now that I think about it the newer BDCP2500 series are the same way. The problem is say the manufacture says you need 60 volts AC to reach the "rated" output of the amp, but lets say your amp is one that does way more than its rated power and it can easily do up to 76 volts AC clean without distortion, but you have no way knowing that because the multimeter has no way to tell you when you reach 1% THD. The same can happen in the reverse order where said amp doesnt perform as well as the others and at 60 volts AC you are clipping the living snot out of it but once again that multimeter has no way to tell you that you passed the amps threshold. Those 800/8v2's make some serious power, more than what they are rated for, and I know this because besides that JL MM105 that was $750 I picked up the MM40 remote headunit, a 800/8v2, a XDM1000/1, and a few sets of M3 and M6 coaxles, along with a a M7-12 IB sub for this install I've been working on. It's kinda senseless to buy a tool only to not use it for its intended method and use the outdated multimeter method but you do you as long as you're happy with the performance.
  4. Many headunits will not have distortion when using the rca preouts of the headunit. Usually the only radios that will distort on the rca preouts are the cheaper headunits that are like $150, or if you are using the internal amplifier of a headunit. So being that you have a $400+ marine headunit it's most likely distortion free on the preouts. I just installed a JL Audio MM105 with 12 rca preouts and that is clean all the way up as well.
  5. well this is a fairly old topic that got bumped. Wonder how these build is going.....
  6. In all honesty I would wire the amp up at 2.66 ohms. The Salt 8k will still do around 6000watts rms at that ohm load, and even then you are going to be stressing your electrical system with that amp being wired at 2.66 ohms, but its going to be a hell of a lot safer and way less risk of you popping the amp until you're able to upgrade your electrical system to match the amps needs. Besides those MTX 9500 subs are nothing crazy and only rated for 1,000 watts rms, and I'm more than certain that once you upgrade your electrical and wire that amp to .67 those subs will be blown in the first 10 minutes because for all that size and heft they have they can't really take power that great. Just wire two sets of 3 subs in parallel, then take the 2 sets and run them in series to give you 2.66 ohms.
  7. The amp should handle that impedance just fine, however your electrical system is no where near up to par for it, and you will most likely blow the amp because it will be starved for juice. That amp can do just shy of 12,000watts rms @ 1ohm certified on the SMD Amp Dyno (AD-1) so your looking at 1200+ amps of current full tilt. When I was using my 6 XS Power D3100s in the back and 2 XS Power S3400s and 3 DC Power 390XP alternators under the hood of my Tahoe (before swapping to lithium batteries) with 9 runs of 1/0 positive and 9 runs of 1/0 negative wire from the front batteries to the back batteries I was having massive voltage drop into the low 11's when i cracked the volume up with just 2 Sundown SAZ-4500D amps wired at .35 each. That's less potential power than the Salt 8, with like 5 times more electrical than you have.
  8. Can't say I've seen or heard of anyone using them, let alone anyone talk about Stetsom in general in I don't know how many years. I guess it sucks that it doesn't come with that controller though because those are usually handy to turn the subs up and down (at least on my 2 different DSP's it did). That being said though I'm sure its halfway decent and worth while, plus you will be able to toss that cheap LOC in the garbage since that DSP has high level inputs as well. If it's in your budget you I would say it is worth taking a gamble on just because it will give you a bit more control over your system than you currently have as well as hopefully solving one of your problems with the turn on pop.
  9. Either way will work and give the same results as long as the amp gain is all the way down, and the crossovers are set open to allow all frequencies to pass through. 40hz for sub 1khz for full range 0db, when setting the amp itself you will want something like -5 though -10db. Also if you are using the headunits onboard amp to power any full range speakers inside the car you will also want to test the radios amp output as well. Chances are high that the onboard amp of the headunit will clip at a far lower volume than any rca output will, so your max volume will be a lot lower.
  10. Well that seems to have worked, hopefully that will stop the spam for a little while.

  11. Unless your running bottom of the barrel Hertz speakers you're going to have a tough time finding much better, and even if they are the lowest end Hertz and you have that amp bridged to 2 channels you're only getting 250 watts per channel to run the 3way component systems. Considering you have 2 channels of amp essentially since the 5 channel amp is bridged that would mean you're using the passive crossover networks that came with them. So ditching the passive crossovers and running the speakers active would be a huge increase over control but you would need 6 channels of amplification and you would need an amp that allows you to bandpass the channels (or run a DSP) because that Arc amp doesn't support bandpass on the crossover filters. You can most likely give them more power as well. Another thing that can improve the sound even more is treating the door with sound deadener. Depending on the location of all the speakers possibly changing where the mid and tweet are located can improve the imaging as well as how loud it appears. Really hard to say though since you didn't give much info besides the amp and brand of speakers and the fact that they are 3-way and didn't include the model or where they are located. What I can say though is just buying another set of speakers and putting them in the same location using the same amp is just going to be throwing money out the window because you're not really going to gain any output/volume by doing that unless you use some cheaper speakers with a cheaper lower wattage handling and you over drive them which will lead to failure and they will most likely sound worse as well. Oh and also any Pro Audio speaker from any manufacture is not going to come any where near close to a good sounding component system. So unless you want no midbass and harsh tweeters stay away from said style of speakers such as the DS18 and DeafBonce and bullet tweeters like those mentioned above.
  12. make sure there is power on the remote too?? if there is then one would think the meter went bad.
  13. With a multimeter, or even a test light for that matter. Seems like that cheap accurate stinger volt meter like you said in the other post is working pretty well!
  14. It's a particular user thats banned from the forums a long time ago, not worth the energy mentioning his brand and giving him any promotion of any sorts, og forum members from a few years ago will remember said tests and person.
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