audiofanaticz

Glad to see he is going through with it!

So talk shit on Sundown even though their X, Z, NS, and Team lines and higher along with more than half the U series are assembled in the USA? Odd... So lets talk Chinese companies since you know so much.. Fi/AA, DC, DD, IA, Crossfire and any other company you can imagine all use Chinese parts that claim to be "Made in USA" At least Sundown is not hiding the fact like most these companies and are being honest about beingAssembled in the USA... Then you got companies like SoundQubed/American Bass that are damn near identical clones with a different logo that are all Chinese made and assembled.. Baskets, neo, ferrite, terminals, direct connect leads, and various softparts all Chinese made. But hey at least you tried to talk shit about a company you know nothing about. By the way just curious on which company is breaking the mold and doing things in car audio that no other companies have done, while all the nuthuggers made fun of big surrounds and now all companies are copying that shit..... /rekt

Resistance in cheap rca cords will cause a MASSIVE voltage drop if you test at the back of the radio and then re-test at the end of a 17 foot cable.

Would you contact me or Snafu with your contact/shipping info so we can get your prizes out! Thanks!

Kthx

Yea I clamp like a mad man, and so does @Triticum Agricolam Thats why I laugh at a lot of builders that dont clamp but brag about how many boxes they turn out. Anyone can rush out a box fast and half ass it when the only thing on your mind is money, but I will let glue cure a minimum of 12 hours usually in the colder months, 8 in the warmer months Also one of the reasons I only use TiteBond 3 woodglue because it has a longer "open" time, meaning the glue will penetrate the wood deeper before it starts to cure, plus its a stronger glue and has a higher water resistance because some vehicles get damp or even leak.

When I clamp I clamp like crazy... I wouldnt say you need the best clamps you can get by with many slightly cheaper clamps that will cost less but still put out more than enough clamping force. I agree with the tube style clamps.. They are just cumbersome to use, and heavy. Especially if you will be moving the enclosure around a little once you got something clamped then they will scratch up your build table. I prefer something with rubber on the ends so it doesnt damage the wood much. Those Yost Tool clamps with the ball screw tension thing aint too bad and cheap, I used similar Irwin style ones fro a while and they do good, but too much pressure the bar will start to bend. Id stay away from those chincy corner clamps, Ive tried a few different kinds now and none of them will hold a true 90 degree corner once pressure is applie, I found some hefty duty ones now that work good. Try to buy as long of a clamp as you can!! Currently my gotos are masterforce clamps for everything, and they can be changed around to apply outward pressure too if you need to spread something apart. I also got a lot of little Irwin style F clamps as well that come in handy for doing small panel build ups before marrying those parts to the enclosure.

Paging @Joe X Where you at!

Congratulations to @Joe X!!! You have your PMs disabled so if you could enable them and message me that would be great! Thanks! -Brian

This... Depending on the vehicle, a lot of them are using built in crossovers to divide the signal to corresponding speakers, especially vehicles with factory amplified stereos. Also a lot of factory radios will lower the bass as the volume goes up. If your wanting to do it right and not spend the money on a processor the next best thing would be using something like the audiocontrol lc7i that will allow you tap off all your factory speakers, then sum all the channels out for a even flat output and then redistribute them to the corresponding amplifiers via rca connections. If your just wanting a sub stage then the lc2i would be all you need.

Cant remember, but there is a plug-in or method for sketch. forget what it is.

Im pretty sure Im not allowed like other SOTMs and giveaways, though I could use some audio upgrades for my car build.. LOL Even if I was, and I some how would of won people would just say I cheated or it was biased. So better off this way! ?

Get your votes in!!!

Posted that a week ago. Company is crap, tried dealing with them with the owner of a local club that purchased a bunch or powered subs and all was dead on arrival except 1 speaker.. If you can get a person on the phone that even knows anything beyond whats listed on the website I'll buy you a beer. Edit: I would really be careful on the box size, like i said they dont seem to handle rated power. Real rms wattage they can handle is like half of what is printed and the peak wattage is more like the listed rms. Highly inflated ratings. Just thought Id say that again.

Good luck with Seismic Audio, one of the worst Pro Audio companies I ever had to deal with. The sub in question is the "San Andreas 18 inch" https://www.seismicaudiospeakers.com/collections/raw-speakers/products/18-inch-raw-subwoofer-driver-speaker-18 I get it, its your first car and money is low and you just want to be bumping so that is understandable, we were all in the same situation at one point of our life or another! Im not going to lie I rigged some shit up back in the day when I first started driving and I thought I knew whats up then, looking back at it now I was just a young dumb idiot that was lucky to not burn his car to the ground... LOL Just be careful with that woofer because that company highly inflates their wattage ratings and it wont take much for it to to blow. I wouldnt give it more than its 500 watts rms rating, and in all seriousness Id only give it 350-400 watts rms of clean undistorted power and you should do okay with it.