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audiofanaticz last won the day on January 4

audiofanaticz had the most liked content!

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About audiofanaticz

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    Adjust the bass and let the /////Alpine blast!
  • Birthday 08/12/1982

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    Sheboygan, Wisconsin

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  1. A dust deputy or any other similar thing is for a shop vac. A dust collector is on a whole different level. So how you can compare the two is beyond me. A dust collector is something that is not needed for everyone, nor does everyone have the space for it. Sometimes a shopvac and its mobility is needed. I have a dust collector and yet I still have a shopvac that was purchased long after owning a collector.
  2. plunge or nothing... I gave routers without plunge bases away because they are too much of a waste of time.
  3. Duck isnt banned that Im aware of, but I have hammered him for some racist shit. Shrek moved to Thailand or something to live out his fantasies...
  4. All I did that time was unfriended him of facebook for posting dreams on my page. he went loopy!
  5. Mechman, Singer, US Alt, DC Power... Only a fool would buy from anyone else. No VS threads, and this one will get locked too.
  6. ** RCA's **

    You most likely got the new style, these came withthe onlder coax style like I used in the video that where made by D'Amore. The new ones are made in house at SMD HQ by Antheny per order.
  7. Are you wanting an actual dust collector, or a vacuum cleaner? You can buy cheap wet/dry vacs that will suck up mdf dust, but its best to put a small perforated hole bag over the actual filter to keep the dust from sucking into the filter this way the dust wil fall off the bag when your turn the vacuum off. Without the dust catching cloth bag over the filter the filter will suck the dust as needed until its packed full and at that point you need to replace it, or blow it out good enough that it will work again. However MDF dust particles pack these filters full really fast so fast you will be annoyed in no time. The other option is get a cheap wet/dry vac and get the Dust Deputy Cyclone kit, they only work on certain models but can be fitted for others. this way the dust enters the dust deputy and gets trapped in there before making it over to the wet/dry vac, which leaves little to no dust in the actual wet/dry. I have a Stainless Steel Rigid wet/dry vac that I never use due to the dust issues and always cloggin up, so the dust deputy is something Ive been wanting to do for a while.
  8. Im pretty sure I put duck in the corner for a while...
  9. ** RCA's **

    Quality RCA cables are a huge need. Something I use to always overlook. By quality I dont mean the most expensive, because lets face it theres some audiophile guys out there that will buy RCA cables that cost 50 grand... But a good cable is a must, not some chincy tiny gauge wires. Small gauge wires, with piss poor connections to the plug makes resistance which only gets multiplied the longer the RCA cables are. So if you have a 16-21 foot cheap RCA cable chances are you will lose a lot of your headunits preout voltage at the other end of your cables where you plug them into your amp. So if your radio has 4volt preouts, you'll be lucky to get 3 volts of said preout at the end of the cables. Does this really matter? Yes and no... You can always turn the amps gain up to properly match your headunits voltage even after the signal has degraded, but then you risk introducing more noise into the system, and of coarse those cheap cables probably have cheap shielding as well which can introduce more noise or amplify it ten fold... What too look for imo: I prefer to like the Co-axle cable type caples myself, but twisteds can be alright if made properly too. The cables should be soldered with silver solder not regular 60/40 rosin core solder. The ends should be nice and solid and offer strain relief for the cable, and have a solid hold when you plug them in. SMD rca cables are great, its what Im currently using. SounDrive cables are great lots of happy customers. Id venture to say the droppinhz cables are decent because they are a spitting image of theSounDrive cables, but I never tested their resistance, however same components you should be good. I personally dont trust any cable made by any manufacture any more, they are all made in China as cheap as can be and Ive seen so many quality high end cables fail just from being ran through a vehicle. Now here I will put the nail in the coffin... Watch the entire video, its a little under 5 minutes long, but will open your eyes about cheap cables. I have 3 sets of cables Im testing to see which have the least resistance. A NEW Certified Bassheads 1.5 foot cable, a USED SMD 3 foot cable, and a USED SMD 6 foot cable. Naturally the shorter the cable the less resistance it should have right??? I mean thats ohms law... So then why are used cables that are 2 and 4 times the length having a lessor resistance than the shortest cables test??? Simple answer: Cheap China cables made as cheaply as possible with cheap wire, cheap ends, and cheap construction!
  10. Dc xl smelly

    The color of the coil means nothing really. I have brand new coils laying around that never been put in a woofer let alone ever seen power that are pure black. Its the color of the coatings on the voice coil wire, those coatings keeps the wires from not making contact with each other, and is also bonding them together on the voice coil former. These coatings will differ in color from one another for a few different reasons, such as the type of product, how long it was baked for on the wire, etc. Plus those are aluminum wire voice coils, so the whole copper wire vs dark color theory people use can be thrown out the window. 12awg wire wouldnt make it stink. but you are on the boarderline of it. 12awg is good for about 1900 watts, however that is at a 100ish foot piece, so a piece of 12 gauge that is only a few feet long is not really going to be an issue, but Id probably still use 10awg.
  11. Dc xl smelly

    I have a hand full of DD-1's in stock right now, Im pretty sure I am the only one with them in stock since my site is fairly new and not well known yet. https://www.audiofanaticz.com/smd-tools/smd-distortion-detector-dd-1 As for the glue melting off comments, I can venture to say that is not the case and here is why. Most the adhesives used to build subwoofers have a very high temp rating 250+ degrees Fahrenheit (some even 500 degrees). These temperatures are pretty high, higher than your sub is going to get in the mass majority of scenarios, and for the glue to gas off and become stinky like that then you got more major problems because the thing is probably already fried, or going to have other major issues with the soft parts. Now the coating on the coil is most likely what your smelling and the reason its getting hot is due to it being clipped. An amplifier runs on DC voltage/amperage but it gets converted to AC voltage/amperage which is what actually makes your speakers move. An amplifiers output is high ac voltage and very low ac current. Its easy for tiny wires to handle a lot of ac voltage, but when you start feeding lots of ac amperage through those tiny wires they get hot, and get hot quick. Essentially when you are clipping your sending a square wave to your sub which includes a lot of amperage that the voicecoil which the voice coil would see very little off which is causing heat, and in return the stinky. Depending on the coating of the coil some can take more or less of this, due it too much and you will cook the coating right off and the coil fall apart as some would say "they slinkyied their coil", meaning the wires that where once wrapped around the voice coil former have let go and are all unraveled like a slinky. Sometimes the coil doesn't slinky but you get a huge chunk that blows out the side of the coil from the clipping.
  12. Ive used this a few times, its alright, but I personally don't care for it. https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-cabinet-carpet-jet-black-yard-54-wide--260-768 The reason these 2 linked below cost more for less carpet is because they are "backed" So they will be slightly stronger against abuse however be aware that the carpet will not stretch no where near as good, nor will it form into tight spaces and gaps. So if your carpeting a box and use carpet seams (like I do) this is the wrong carpet to use! https://www.parts-express.com/duralock-backed-speaker-cabinet-carpet-black-yard-48-wide--260-762 https://www.parts-express.com/duralock-backed-speaker-cabinet-carpet-charcoal-yard-48-wide--260-764 So if anything, use the 54 inch wide stuff that is NOT backed, unless there is some reason that you really need it backed, but it will be a pita to work with. I need to order a couple new rolls soon, really loving the stuff Im currently using, but I need to find the label to figure out where it came from and order it if its not too insanely expensive.
  13. Glue cracking at former/spider

    How do you know the subs didn't reach full excursion? CA glue on the triple joint rink will crack for a couple reasons (a lot of manufactures have moved away from CA glue now days and using an adhesive thats not prone to doing this). 1: Glue cracks is due to the glue bead being thicker and travelling out farther on to the spider rolls, over time as the spider loosens up and starts to move where the glue is at causing it to crack. 2: The CA glue was sprayed to heavily with activator/accelerator and caused the CA glue to rapidly cure causing it to become brittle and doing so its strength is compromised. 3: The CA glue was put on too thick in 1 huge heavy bead and hit with activator at once, instead of multiple smaller beads being sprayed with activator making the joint stronger. 4: This could be multiple reasons but I will put them together as one issue being cone control; such as the subwoofer unloading due to playing to far below box tuning, subwoofer being over powered, subwoofer enclosure being too big, too much port area, power compression, or multiples of these reasons combined. You are blowing off dust caps as well? There are typically only a couple reasons for caps to be blowing off. 1: A poor bond to the cone as in if the lip of the dust caps where not sanded to give a better adhesion for the glue, and or not weighted down while the glue dried. 2: Cone flexing or warping when the woofer is played over excursion. 3: Some people will say CA glue being used on a dust cap will cause it to pop off too, but if the lip of the dust cap is sanded, and its weighted down while the glue cures there should be no real issue. I always used CA for dust caps and never had an issue and I've rebuilt a lot of subs. With so little info being provided on this install its as if your pissing into the wind because all we know is you got 16krms on 6 subs and that the glue is black..... Just as an FYI most subs, and speakers in general are built using black adhesives, the color is irrelevant. So are these 6 600wrms subs? Are they 1200wrms subs? Are they 2500wrms subs? What are the woofers specs? How many layers of spiders are being used? What are the box specs? You are not even supplying even the most basic information. As Kyle said, those little chunks are nothing to really worry about and will happen. It is very common more so than not when using CA glue for triple joints. To me it looks like the triple joint was built up in several layers as it should be and not 1 thick layer, and only the outer layer that is down the former farther chipped a little glue off.
  14. Technically not really the same end result. The 2 runs of positive wire from front to back would lower the resistance in the wire VS just having 1 run of power front to back. The lower resistance in the wire will lower your voltage drop from front to back. Example your front battery voltage with the vehicle running is 13.8 volts, but the voltage in the rear is only say 13.6 volts with the amp turned off or volume at 0. Now lets add a 350 amp load to that single run of positive 1/0 gauge power wire that is about 17 feet long, and now your voltage in the back has dropped to 12.6 volts (8.5% drop in voltage). Now lets add a 2nd run of positive 1/0 gauge power wire that is the same length at 17 feet and apply that same 350 amp load. Your rear voltage is now at 13.2 volts (4.2% drop in voltage). Lets do a 3rd run of positive 1/0 gauge power wire that is 17 feet long with a 350 amp load. Your rear voltage is now 13.4 volts (2.8% drop in voltage). 4th positive run: 13.5 volts (2.1% drop in voltage), and so on. So end results are anything but the same! However the question you have to ask yourself is what are your goals, and is that extra wiring worth its cost to you for your needs? A daily driver vehicle with a small system, maybe 3 or 4 runs is too much, but that 2nd run you feel is worth the cost. A competition vehicle that is only allowed one 800 cubic inch battery under the hood, and the vehicle must be kept off during the competition you may feel that doing 20 positive runs and 20 negative runs front to back is worth it. This can also be applied to RCA cables. Quality low resistance rca cable VS thin cheap cables. The thinner cables will have more voltage drop, so your headunit may have 4volt preouts, but in the back at the amp you may only see 2.8volts (again a rough estimate).
  15. If your looking for something on the cheap cheap, TrueRTA has freeware software that you can use, but also a paid version. https://trueaudio.com/rta_abt1.htm Sadly the RTA will be very dependent on the microphone used, if you use a cheap mic your results will not be the best since a cheap mic will not have a good frequency response. I probably wouldnt use a cheaper mic than this if you want any kind of realistic results. https://www.parts-express.com/behringer-ecm8000-measurement-microphone--248-625