audiofanaticz

I mean you can but the port alone isnt where you get all the bass from, that is only part of it. Ideally you would want to build a bandpass enclosure and ported it through the package tray. A typical bass reflex style enclosure ported through wont give you much if any more bass in the cabin than just having the box in the trunk not being ported through.

To some your system aint banging unless your trunk rattling. The louder the rattle the better. Unfortunately the trunk opening on that body style Caddy is very limited. The trunk lid doesnt have a lot of depth and the height of the opening isnt very tall either. So even some 12 inch size boxes will have an issue sliding in if its too tall or too deep.

In all honesty, it doesnt do much and more for looks. There is no real audible gain in loudness and would only be seen on a spl meter, and if its something your wanting for SPL purposes and building a box to play 1 frequency really loud there are better alternatives to a kerfed port like an aeroport.

Wait for the Sundown Nightshade v4 8 that will use the same neo motor as the other Nightshade series, a 3inch coil, and 30-40 mm of xmax each way... No other 8 will touch it!

Glad to see he is going through with it!

So talk shit on Sundown even though their X, Z, NS, and Team lines and higher along with more than half the U series are assembled in the USA? Odd... So lets talk Chinese companies since you know so much.. Fi/AA, DC, DD, IA, Crossfire and any other company you can imagine all use Chinese parts that claim to be "Made in USA" At least Sundown is not hiding the fact like most these companies and are being honest about beingAssembled in the USA... Then you got companies like SoundQubed/American Bass that are damn near identical clones with a different logo that are all Chinese made and assembled.. Baskets, neo, ferrite, terminals, direct connect leads, and various softparts all Chinese made. But hey at least you tried to talk shit about a company you know nothing about. By the way just curious on which company is breaking the mold and doing things in car audio that no other companies have done, while all the nuthuggers made fun of big surrounds and now all companies are copying that shit..... /rekt

Resistance in cheap rca cords will cause a MASSIVE voltage drop if you test at the back of the radio and then re-test at the end of a 17 foot cable.

Would you contact me or Snafu with your contact/shipping info so we can get your prizes out! Thanks!

Kthx

Yea I clamp like a mad man, and so does @Triticum Agricolam Thats why I laugh at a lot of builders that dont clamp but brag about how many boxes they turn out. Anyone can rush out a box fast and half ass it when the only thing on your mind is money, but I will let glue cure a minimum of 12 hours usually in the colder months, 8 in the warmer months Also one of the reasons I only use TiteBond 3 woodglue because it has a longer "open" time, meaning the glue will penetrate the wood deeper before it starts to cure, plus its a stronger glue and has a higher water resistance because some vehicles get damp or even leak.

When I clamp I clamp like crazy... I wouldnt say you need the best clamps you can get by with many slightly cheaper clamps that will cost less but still put out more than enough clamping force. I agree with the tube style clamps.. They are just cumbersome to use, and heavy. Especially if you will be moving the enclosure around a little once you got something clamped then they will scratch up your build table. I prefer something with rubber on the ends so it doesnt damage the wood much. Those Yost Tool clamps with the ball screw tension thing aint too bad and cheap, I used similar Irwin style ones fro a while and they do good, but too much pressure the bar will start to bend. Id stay away from those chincy corner clamps, Ive tried a few different kinds now and none of them will hold a true 90 degree corner once pressure is applie, I found some hefty duty ones now that work good. Try to buy as long of a clamp as you can!! Currently my gotos are masterforce clamps for everything, and they can be changed around to apply outward pressure too if you need to spread something apart. I also got a lot of little Irwin style F clamps as well that come in handy for doing small panel build ups before marrying those parts to the enclosure.

Paging @Joe X Where you at!

Congratulations to @Joe X!!! You have your PMs disabled so if you could enable them and message me that would be great! Thanks! -Brian

This... Depending on the vehicle, a lot of them are using built in crossovers to divide the signal to corresponding speakers, especially vehicles with factory amplified stereos. Also a lot of factory radios will lower the bass as the volume goes up. If your wanting to do it right and not spend the money on a processor the next best thing would be using something like the audiocontrol lc7i that will allow you tap off all your factory speakers, then sum all the channels out for a even flat output and then redistribute them to the corresponding amplifiers via rca connections. If your just wanting a sub stage then the lc2i would be all you need.

Cant remember, but there is a plug-in or method for sketch. forget what it is.