audiofanaticz

You are correct Aaron

Voice coils are not rated in wattage, even the manufacture of the best coils has no real idea on wattage. You can take the same coil and use it in 2 completely different woofers. One woofer it may handle 3000 watts rms, while the other woofer it will handle 6000 watts rms. A lot of it is in the cooling of the motor. Trying to keep up with 2 10 inch mids shouldn't be hard at all with decent woofer. Im going to go out on the limb and say your 3000 watt 12 inch sub you had was either not a legit 3000 watt sub with inflated bogus ratings, or you had an amp that doesnt make any decent power to push the sub cleanly to its potential.

The amount of layers wrapped around the voice coil doesnt have much to do with how much power the coil will handle, granted typically a 8 layer will handle more but it will be less efficient compared to a 4 layer and a 4 layer will shed the heat faster. The amount of layers will drastically change the BL curve of the woofer through the woofers movement, the 8 layer coil will have a higher BL than that of a 4 layer. Yet there are drawbacks to the 8 layer, so it really depends on the actual purpose of the woofer. Adding more layers of spiders will also not handle more power, it will just make it so it needs more power to move the same as it did with less layers. While this sounds like it means its handling more power, its not because it does nothing for helping the coil handle power. So if you are not getting that coil to move properly with all those additional layers of spiders then what you get is heat being built up on the coil and not being able to cool because its not moving. Even using a stronger than previously used coil in a woofer doesn't make it necessarily better because at the end of the day its going to come down to the cooling and how effective the cooling in the motor is. Pole piece vent, pole chamfers, top and pottom plate vents, basket vents, etc. If a woofer is having a problem keeping a coil cool at 2000 watts, its surely going to have a problem keeping a coil cooler at 3000 watts even if a better built coil is being used. Typically all your higher end woofer companies that are assembled in the usa are already using some of the best coils that can be used on their mid to higher tier woofers already, and all those coils are coming from Precision Econowind. It really takes a lot of experimenting with this stuff to even start to gain a sense of logic how things work with each other because 1 small change will throw the characteristics of the woofer.

Following, and in for this special voice coil that will have to be made. Dunno how you will get around the minimum quantity to order since you will just need one.

An oem alt never having an issue means nothing, none of its internals are being stressed and made to be reliable for the most part. Where as an aftermarket alternator is having parts stressed to their max doing 2-4 times as much work in the same footprint.. Thats like taking a stock LS engine that makes 400hp and having it be stock and never really having issues, but then you throw a pair of turbskis on it with 25 psi of boost and then add a 200 shot kit on top of that to help out that turbo lag and the engine only lasts a couple seasons until you throw a rod or melt some pistons. At the end of the day no matter how much demand you may toss on that oem alternator, it will never make more amperage than its rated too so its not being taxed to death.

No, thats where your wrong. You cant compare Lithium AH to AGM AH. If you did that means that 95ah Cmax lithium has less reserve than 1 d3100 with 127ah. Hell you cant even compare ah of one type of lithium to another type of lithium of a different chemistry. Unless you have used lithium before, you would be shocked to see how it performs in all aspects compared to a big agm bank. I have about $550 in my 95ah bank, that is for the cells, busbars, angle iron, threaded rod, nuts, washers, and paint. Thats a little less than $100 more than a new D3100. Im sitting here still asking myself why I haven't made the switch sooner.

When I toss my long belt on 1 of my other 2 alternators is sounding like a super charger, it has a really bad rough whine coming from it. Not sure if its one of the alts or both of the alts so Im just not using the other 2 so I dont damage it farther since they are still working but just sound awful. These things are about 9 years old at this point and were $1200 each. I think the bearings are shot in them. Anyways you said what do I need more reserve for, and thinking a motorcycle battery should be fine for reserve, so I told you why you need reserve. Even a doing a lithium battery like in my case the 95ah of CMAX is going to be stronger than 10 d3100s. So even though a single lithium battery, its still massive amounts of reserve.

Plot twist: Your alternators wont always put out full current.... Alts will only achieve their full output typically at 2000-2300ish engine rpm, your engine never be continuously at that unless your parked with an idle lock of some sort or your foot on the gas. Another problem is when the alts get hot, they put out less amperage. Another problem is these alts that do crazy high output like this do crap output at engine idle. Ask me how I know... Because I have 3 390XP amp alternators that should produce 1170 amps of current, yet with 9 runs of positive and 9 runs of negative from alts to rear batteries, frame grounds front and rear. Also had 2 XS Power S3400s under the hood, and 5 d3100s in the back. With 2 Sundown SAZ-4500s wire down at .35 ohms I had massive voltage drop down into the 11.2 volt range. The thing with alternators is they wont make the power until they see a demand for it, so the beat will drop and a couple seconds later your alternators yell at each other saying to wake up and get to work. The thing with music is its not a constant sign wave, there is breaks in the beat and in those times your alts will then start to put out less current. Reserve is needed no matter what. All I changed in my truck is going from 7 XS Power batteries and 3 390XP alts to a 95ah CMAX bank and no agm with only have 1 of my 390XP alts hooked up at the moment and my voltage sits at 15.3 and never drops below 14.9 full tilt where as it use to be 11.3 volts with 3 alts.

Oh wow! I didn't even know AudioControl made home audio gear! Im so out of the loop on home stuff, my surround sound receiver don't even have hdmi in/out, all composite rca. LOL

Even 45s in the box can hurt performance. #justsaying

Aeroports are more efficient than any other shape port, and in return you can get by with less port area than a normal port. A round port has less surface area than a square or rectangular port with the same port area, and this results in less surface tension when the air moves over the port.

Keep in mind if your using the internal amplifier of ANY radio that it will reach distortion long before any preouts will. For example most Alpine decks are clean all the way up to max volume (35) on the rca outputs, but the internal amplifier IF being used will distort at volume 23-25 iirc.

I wasn't the one who removed any badges so not sure on whats the deal or why. I didnt know VIP members where given out for sotm prizes, must of been when Chode was still doing it. I did find this though but it answers nothing, maybe @Antheny916 can chime in.

I would probably go and check the tinsels. Pull the sub and check impedance with a multimeter, there maybe another tinsel issue besides what you visually seen last time. Try a different sub even if its just some cheap sub to rule out the sub all together.

Not all amps share a ground from the chassis to the RCA inputs or the speaker outputs, where as some amps the ground wire input is connected to the rca input to the speaker output there is no break in the signal. The old instructions when the first DD-1s came out you where told to use the negative power wire for the negative probe, then some where it got switched, but still some amps with tiffany style rca inputs that dont work on and you need to use the amps ground for the probe and not the negative output. Ive ran across this issue so many times, and Ive been using all my smd tools for years. I actually have the 4th DD-1 and CC-1 made before they where released publicly