audiofanaticz

You will want to fire the port towards the rear hatch of the vehicle so it has something to load off of and makes the wave longer and a lot louder.

A hardware store would be a safe bet, they usually have a bunch of hardware there like set screws and stuff! It will be a good idea to take one of them out that you plan to replace so you can go inside with it and use the size/thread checker so you buy the correct size. They are every day run of the mill set screws, get stainless ones if you want something stronger than the cheap ones used in the amp.

Typically when adding 1/0 wire from the charging stud of your alternator to the battery positive terminal the wire is rather short and typically able to be ran in such a way where the wire is never in real danger of abrasion causing a short or extreme heat from something such as the exhaust/manifold. Now you can fuse it if you are overly concerned about it not being fused and you will want to fuse it as close to your alternators output amperage. The vast majority of people don't fuse their positive wire for the "big 3" due to the reason I mentioned above and the reason I mention down below. You will want to use an ANL fuse and fuse holder not a fusible link. I think the largest gauge fusible links are around 8 gauge (maybe 4 gauge), but I am not aware of the amperage ratings they offer. Using a 8 gauge or even 4 gauge fusible link on 1/0 wire will most likely cause a decent amount of resistance under high amperage loads and that's not ideal because it creates heat in the wire. I'm more than certain your current fusible link for your starter is rather low amperage and rated for the maximum amperage that your starter draws when starting the vehicle. That being said it is fine and will not need to be replaced for a larger fusible link. So if you have 180 amp alternator you can probably get by with a 150 amp fuse but if it blows use a 200 amp fuse, a 250 amp alternator then use a 250 amp fuse, if its a 390 amp alternator use a 400 amp fuse, etc. Try to use the closest fuse size without going over by too many amps, typically a fuse will allow a decent bit of additional current through for periods of times before it blows (which is why I said a 150 amp fuse for a 180 amp alternator). However like I said above it's typically not needed or done by almost anyone who does the big 3 upgrage.

You can charge it all at once with all batteries connected together. Just be aware that it will probably take a while to charge them, it will come down to the battery size (ah rating) and the size of your charger.

Really it doesn't matter too much since its not going to change anything else in your system so its more on your preference. If you tuned your amp with the 8db overlap and you want the vu-din to light up red when you start to clip your amp then use a 8db track. Some people may not want to see the red light up at all and will back off the adjustment just a little bit so it only lights up red when you are going in to hard clipping. Where as others will set it up so that it hits the red mark a little before you go in to clipping. Play with it a little and see how you like it for yourself.

You should never need to max out the gain to get an amp to make rated power so something is wrong. Refer to my post on this thread because I'm not going to type it all over again, but this person had similar issues with gain voltage. Then again using a dmm is part of the problem in these scenarios.

Technically yes, all amps will draw some power when off but not in the sense you are thinking of. It's very little, we are talking milliamps that just keep the capacitors inside the amplifier filled up. This goes for anything electronic that has capacitors in it really, and even your radio will use some power when off to keep your presets, clock, settings intact. Again, nothing that will kill your battery. On an amplifier that is 5000 watts rms we are talking a draw of like a half amp if not less, and having multiples of these amps wont kill your battery when the vehicle is off, so something so small like what you are using its nothing, like I said its less than equivalent to turning your lights on.

As long as you wired it correctly and the power was off when the radio/vehicle is off chances are very unlikely that it killed the battery. That amp/sub combo is 50 watts rms with a peak power rating of 160 watts (which it will never most likely never make), so it draws about 5-10 amps of current when it is used at its maximum volume and probably has a fuse rating of 7.5-10 amps. A standard halogen headlight uses about 5 amps and a pair of headlights is about 10 amps usually. For that matter your aftermarket radio has a larger amp than what you put in and draws more power! So unless your having your battery die every time you turn on your headlights, and as long as the amp is hooked into the power correctly I can reassure you that the battery failed for another reason. Maybe the battery is rather old, or been abused (there are date codes of when it was manufactured usually on the battery sticker), maybe your alternator is going/went bad and is no longer able to charge the battery and the battery finally just ran out of juice, maybe a combination of the both, but not because you put in some very low power amp/sub combo that literately takes less power than any other electricidal device in your vehicle. So going with freak coincidence along with a possible underlying issue someplace else in the electrical system would be a safe bet!

Yes, they are made to adjust voltage to desired voltage. However you need to take apart your alternator and remove the internal voltage regulator, so you will need to send your alternator out to whoever built it for you to be able to use one of these. That being said most alternator companies offer the Transpo voltage regulators and you may be able to get them a tad cheaper if you buy it from the company that is doing the work on your alternator.

If it was me I would still go ahead and put it in, after all you already bought it so you might as well use it, it its typically easy to install. All the potential issues are rather simple to get around and come up with solutions for fairly easily and cheap to do if any of them do arise.

You're definitely high, just a reflection from the flash. These baskets don't break. They are like 20lbs alone! People even cut out spokes for more of a free flow for spl purposes and they are still strong af!! I nearly shit my pants the first time I had a TC 18 basket and the Sundown 18 frame side by side. They chunnnnnnnnnky

Almost all high output alts will have an underdrive pulley, thats where they get some of their additional power from due to it spinning faster, which that in itself can some times cause another issue in higher revving vehicles. Typically the smaller underdrive pulley will be a 3 to 1 ratio, for every 1 revolution of your engine your alt will spin 3 times. Typically an alt won't turn on until the alt pulley is spinning at 1800-2400 rpms (again this will vary a lot from vehicle to vehicle alt to alt), but if your vehicle idles at 600rpm that means the alt is only seeing about 1800rpm and may not turn on until 2000rpm. This is rarely an issue though except when you put big monsters on small fuel friendly cars. Also once that alt is under full load be prepared for it to rob a good 20hp from your engine! If your car has a/c I think the stock belt length is 44.3 inches (typically the last 3-4 numbers of the belt model number is its length), so if you could find a 43.75 to 44 inch belt you should be in decent shape. Typically you want to go .5 to 1 inch shorter on belt length to accommodate for that smaller pulley which will keep your belt tensioner in the ideal position. Granted if your able to add an additional idler pulley close to the alt for a tighter belt wrap your factory length belt maybe just fine to use still. Its a pain in the ass but a easy method for finding ideal belt length is to use a piece of string and wrap it around all the pulleys as if it was your belt, and then with a second pair of hands have someone hold the belt tensioner in its normal position (how it rests with the factory belt) and when they are holding it there mark the string with a marker where the 2 pieces come together and then measure the length of the string. That is your needed belt length with no guessing. Kind of hard to explain it, but its simple to do.

tits always do the job!

Well I can tell from looking at it that its directly from Sundown like that, and someone has tried rebuilding it in the past or tried rigging it together before you got it. All that white glue is not factory. So whoever possibly reconed it last didn't screw the bolts in all the way or used bolts that are too long and then tried gluing it and said good enough. It can be fixed by being reconed and having the bolts tightened or the correct ones installed. Its a really simple fix if you know how to do a recone, if you don't then don't attempt it because if you mess up you just threw your money out the window and have to order another recone. If you were closer I could fix it, but it looks like you're in FL, so your best bet would be to contact Apex Audio in NC, they do a lot of recones, refurb, and custom built Sundown subs. They are located in the same building as Sundown but it is a completely different company with different owner(s) than Sundown. Here is their facebook https://www.facebook.com/caraudiobargain

Search for a belt in the correct length with more ribs, like 8, 9, 10 ribs. Then what you do is take a sharp utility knife and you cut the additional ribs off the belt down to the correct rib size you need. People with 3-7+ alt setups have been doing this for decades without issue. Usually Gates Industrial belts (green in color) will have the larger lengths and higher rib count. Going with a narrower belt than what you need (ie; 6 ribs instead of 7) will be less surface contact on the pullies and could cause your belt to slip around the alternator pully when the alt gets loaded down. Also that is a lot of alt for such a small motor, hopefully your idle is high enough or you may have no output from the alt when the engine idles because the alt isn't spinning fast enough, or if it does turn on it will have rather low output.