RAM_Designs
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Posts posted by RAM_Designs
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Just play it and see if the dust cap comes flying off or not.
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Just take them out and then put them back in if you want.
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what is a brand?
Used to mark your cattle.
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Found my old for sale thread...LIVEWIRE.
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This it???
No.
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I had some of those...just sold them though, never used them. I forgot the name in the auctions...the dimpled cone looked horrible though.
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I've done a couple in the 1.25-1.5ft^3 area with tunings in the 30-32hz range...all of them turned out well, the SX doesn't seem to be too picky. Depending on the power you're working with, I'd stay within those specs.
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There are, and have been, many SQ guys using 15" and 18" subs. This is mainly due to the fact that with a larger cone you need less excursion for a given loudness, thus reducing distortion.
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I'd do a 4th order if I were you.
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Agreed on 3-3.5ft^3 at 32-34hz.
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L7's tend to like 2.5-3ft^3 each, after displacements, so you look to be in that range.
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I haven't messed with them, but I heard they like larger boxes. Something like 8ft^3 for a pair, from what I've heard.
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7.5-8ft^3 common chamber, tuned to 32-33hz with about 100-110in^2 of port.
If you want to tune your box lower, then you need to lengthen the port. This also takes up more box volume, which requires more port length as well, so it's like a little circle that makes it hard to lower tuning without losing a good chunk of box volume.
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wow , i did the math on that , that would only leave you with 2.09 cubic feet after displacement , and i came up with 48 htz, you might want to rethink that, but i could be wrong ,
The 3.5ft^3 is assumed to be after displacements.
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If not using the flared ends then you have to treat the PVC like you would a normal slot port(port area wise). In the end you'll end up with pretty long ports most of the time, especially since you'll generally have to use more than one PVC port to get the area you need.
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The Dayton Reference HF is a solid sealed sub as well, some of the best low-end extension I've seen for a sealed sub in winISD. Inductance and distortion are low as well, if you're looking for more of an SQ thing. The only issue I see is the somewhat limited xmax, which will limit the potential clean output.
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If you do a port spanning the whole width of the box, it's going to be really skinny in order to have the proper port area. You'd be better off having a port on each side instead of one that's 36.5"x3".
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I think its one of the biggest misconceptions in car audio. Of course i do have it done in my truck but its got a few more watts than 1200.
I did it back when I competed a little to get the most I could. I was only running a Sundown 1500D at 1/2ohm though.
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8 gauge speaker wire is not going to make a shred of difference
Makes you look cool though.
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Generally because the subs will behave differently when reproducing a given frequency. They'll unload at different power levels and frequencies, as well as have different group delay. Basically just think of everything that a sub does in a certain box, and realize that a different sub in a different box is going to do everything a little differently, no matter how much you try to make them act the same.
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Its a good car...I have yet to see any dimming at all with my current system...of course its a difference in power but it seems to handle pretty well.
I just mean that the alt is small. Jumping from a RF 201S to the AQ1200D is going to be a BIG difference in current draw. I believe the size of the alt for that year is eighty amps...
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Depends on your listening habits and how well your little Camry alt can keep voltage from dropping too low. Because it will drop, it's just a matter of how much.
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The lvl3 15 is a solid sealed box sub.
Which 8 12s
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
lvl2's or Dcons