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mbdblue

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Posts posted by mbdblue

  1. 8 hours ago, Krazykid122 said:

    XS D3100 in front, Northstar SMS-AGM 400 in the rear, and i actually went out there to test the voltage after my last couple of replies. I put one DMM at the front battery, and one DMM at the amp, while the front didnt really drop below 13.8/14 while at full tilt @ 2k rpms the voltage at the amp got dangerously low, in the 12s.

    So i cleaned up all my grounds in the front and rear, added a 2/0 from the alternator to the front battery so that makes a total of 4 grounds off the front battery, one going to the frame, one to the block, one to the alt, one to the body. I ran another run of 1/0 from the back battery - to the frame. Even though i have 2 runs of + and - from the back battery to the amp and 2+ runs from the alt to the front battery i only have 1 run of 0ga from front battery to back battery.

    Do i need more runs from front to back, just one more? two more? for a total of 3? same amount of grounds to match? seems power is now the issue.

    Your rear voltage shouldn't change a full 2 volts compared to the front. Sounds like you may be on the right path with your wiring. I would get another run of positive (and negative, unless you trust your frame grounds) from the front bat to the rear since 1/0 OFC is usually fused at 300 amps and your pulling more with that amp at 1/2; start from there. doesnt make sense to only have 1 run coming from the front battery to the back when you have 2 runs each going to the amp. Im wondering if your rear battery is choking cuz there's not enough current being provided from the front...thats probably whats causing the voltage difference...like others mentioned, the rear battery may also have an issue (possible dead cell?)

    The sub smell issue may be an entirely different thing...what are the specs of the box?

     

  2. Those pictures make me think the box didn't survive the trip and the shipper just went wild with the tape...LIke you said, would be really interested to know if it left there facility like that. Id probably give them a call, send them the pictures/video and ask.

    I think every XS I've ever ordered has come in the manufacturer's box with styrofoam. Literally just got my D4700 yesterday; ordered from showtime (through ebay) and it came like that. Soon as I see it, I get the camera out. Thankfully, I've never had one damaged...but the syrofoam never survives in solid pieces.

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  3. They may be referring to how long your power wire is and the amp draw of the Kicker. You can start a fire if your power wire isn't big enough to support the current being pulled through it so it'll heat up. Get's hot enough, it can melt the outer jacket and arc against the body of the car. That being said, if your using quality 4 gauge, it's not 100 feet long, and it's fused, it's pretty unlikely to happen.

    as for the battery, it depends on your car's stock alternator, how old/big the battery under the hood is, and how many amps that Kicker is drawing from your stock electrical system.

    The first thing I'd do, is get a voltmeter or at least a DMM to monitor your voltage at the amp so you can determine if your car's stock electrical system can keep up with the amp's draw. If it tanks the voltage every time the bass hits, you may want to consider throwing in a small AGM for support, or just replace the starter battery with a bigger AGM if you have the room.

    on 1000 watts, I doubt you'll be able to hear the difference in loudness.

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